How to: Properly Paint '12 TL Grille, Pictures & Write up
06-03-2012, 02:18 PM
#1
-Brian
Thread Starter
How to: Properly Paint '12 TL Grille, Pictures & Write up
Hey Guys!
I wanted to do a little write up on how to paint a '12 Grille. I purposely didn't sent up my paint booth, so others will see it can be done in your own garage.
First off you start with a grille, assess to make sure there are no pits or chips, those will need to be taken care of. In my case, I started with a new grille.
One of the main reasons grilles chip is totally due to poor prep, in order for our Epoxy primer to stick, it needs to have tooth. For this I like to sand it down with 80 grit, it really gives it a lot of scratch without digging into the finish.
Next, wipe it down with a wax and grease remover. The grille is now ready for an epoxy primer. I would only suggest using epoxy primer, as it has awesome adhesion. It is actually supposed to be used on metal finishes, to prevent corrosion and it works just as good on these grilles. I use it as a sealer since I do not need any build, so I reduce it down 2:1:1, normal mix is just 2:1 if used just as a primer. All ratio's are listed on the cups. The technical data sheets tell you which ratio to use.
Next, pick up the basecoat from your local auto body supply shop. I am using DBC, it has great color matches. For this I picked up 4oz, which reduces 1:1. I used about 3 ounces to cover this grille with 3 coats. Now that we are in the summer, I suggest a slow reducer with about 5-6 minute flash time between coats. Flash means that the solvents have flashed out of the paint and that you can put the next coat on. For basecoat I am using an Iwata LPH 400, Orange Cap, 1.3 tip, pressure @ 22 PSI.
Once the base has flashed off for about 25 minutes, it will be ready for clearcoat. I have used a few different clears and I am currently using Lessonal Pro Air. I would suggest it to anyone that is not using a paint booth, as it performs well in an air dry environment and with low airflow. Different clearcoats are designed to work in certain environments. Pop two coats of clear on with about 5 minutes flash time or until hand slick, meaning the clear feels like the backside of a piece of tape. Sticky, not stringy. For clear I use a Devilbiss Tekna, 1.4 tip, Fluid wide open and pressure @ 29 PSI.
Allow the grille to dry overnight, then use 2000 Grit sand paper with a block to knock down any dust nibs or factory orange peel. Clearcoats are designed to have texture in them to match factory orange peel. For this grille I didn't want any texture so wetsanding takes are of this. After wetsanding with 2000 grit sandpaper, you should go over it with 3000 grit to refine your sanding scratches, to make buffing easier. I use a MIrka pad on a DA to take care of this.
Once everything is all sanded down, it is time to buff it back to a shine. All you need is a compound, polish and swirl remover. I have found the 3M Perfect System to work very well. It brings three pads with a compound, polish and swirl remover to go with each pad. I am still using my 1st step compound from Meguiars since I have it left over. I like to do three passes with compound to make sure all my 3000 grit scratches are removed.
That is followed with step number 2
Then step number three has to be activated with a mist of water.
Now, enjoy your beautiful shine, you now have a factory painted grille!
I wanted to do a little write up on how to paint a '12 Grille. I purposely didn't sent up my paint booth, so others will see it can be done in your own garage.
First off you start with a grille, assess to make sure there are no pits or chips, those will need to be taken care of. In my case, I started with a new grille.
One of the main reasons grilles chip is totally due to poor prep, in order for our Epoxy primer to stick, it needs to have tooth. For this I like to sand it down with 80 grit, it really gives it a lot of scratch without digging into the finish.
Next, wipe it down with a wax and grease remover. The grille is now ready for an epoxy primer. I would only suggest using epoxy primer, as it has awesome adhesion. It is actually supposed to be used on metal finishes, to prevent corrosion and it works just as good on these grilles. I use it as a sealer since I do not need any build, so I reduce it down 2:1:1, normal mix is just 2:1 if used just as a primer. All ratio's are listed on the cups. The technical data sheets tell you which ratio to use.
Next, pick up the basecoat from your local auto body supply shop. I am using DBC, it has great color matches. For this I picked up 4oz, which reduces 1:1. I used about 3 ounces to cover this grille with 3 coats. Now that we are in the summer, I suggest a slow reducer with about 5-6 minute flash time between coats. Flash means that the solvents have flashed out of the paint and that you can put the next coat on. For basecoat I am using an Iwata LPH 400, Orange Cap, 1.3 tip, pressure @ 22 PSI.
Once the base has flashed off for about 25 minutes, it will be ready for clearcoat. I have used a few different clears and I am currently using Lessonal Pro Air. I would suggest it to anyone that is not using a paint booth, as it performs well in an air dry environment and with low airflow. Different clearcoats are designed to work in certain environments. Pop two coats of clear on with about 5 minutes flash time or until hand slick, meaning the clear feels like the backside of a piece of tape. Sticky, not stringy. For clear I use a Devilbiss Tekna, 1.4 tip, Fluid wide open and pressure @ 29 PSI.
Allow the grille to dry overnight, then use 2000 Grit sand paper with a block to knock down any dust nibs or factory orange peel. Clearcoats are designed to have texture in them to match factory orange peel. For this grille I didn't want any texture so wetsanding takes are of this. After wetsanding with 2000 grit sandpaper, you should go over it with 3000 grit to refine your sanding scratches, to make buffing easier. I use a MIrka pad on a DA to take care of this.
Once everything is all sanded down, it is time to buff it back to a shine. All you need is a compound, polish and swirl remover. I have found the 3M Perfect System to work very well. It brings three pads with a compound, polish and swirl remover to go with each pad. I am still using my 1st step compound from Meguiars since I have it left over. I like to do three passes with compound to make sure all my 3000 grit scratches are removed.
That is followed with step number 2
Then step number three has to be activated with a mist of water.
Now, enjoy your beautiful shine, you now have a factory painted grille!
Last edited by Nexson; 06-03-2012 at 02:23 PM.
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weather (06-04-2012)
06-03-2012, 07:07 PM
#5
6G TLX-S
Nexson, you crank out nothing but quality stuffs. If you start up your own paint shop, everyone will love you very much.
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06-03-2012, 08:57 PM
#8
-Brian
Thread Starter
Thank you. One of the main reasons why paint chips is because when a rock hits the surface the paint does not have any tooth to stick to. it is just cheap insurance to do it the right way. It only took about a half hour to sand down the grille and epoxy primer it. If rock chips are still a problem a flex additive can be added to the paint. Flex additives do not make the part flexible, rather they make the clearcoat harder so that when something hits the paint the clearcoat does not crack. The same rules apply when a rock hits the surface. The only downside to this is that the clear coat is much harder to buff.
06-03-2012, 10:44 PM
#9
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Wow Brian, please come over and repaint my front bumper!
06-04-2012, 08:50 AM
#10
Great job on the write up Brian. That looks amazing!
I just got a nasty rock chip on my unpainted grill. The entire nose of my car has 3M on it, except for the grill. When I purchased the car, they stated that couldn't do the grill because the 3M wouldn't stick?? I have already ordered a new grill and for something to do I'm thinking about painting the old one to match my car (just to see how different it will look although my car is already silver).
I just got a nasty rock chip on my unpainted grill. The entire nose of my car has 3M on it, except for the grill. When I purchased the car, they stated that couldn't do the grill because the 3M wouldn't stick?? I have already ordered a new grill and for something to do I'm thinking about painting the old one to match my car (just to see how different it will look although my car is already silver).
06-04-2012, 12:52 PM
#12
-Brian
Thread Starter
haha, Sure, all you gotta do is drive down!
Hm, I would think it would stick, it doesn't make much sense since others here with 2009-2011's have the grille clear-bra-ed. The finish of the grille is essentially the same. The silver probably won't make much of a difference but perhaps a black painted grille would, it would match the fog surrounds quite well!
You gotta start somewhere, I actually learned all of this through the internet and trial/error. I never had anyone to actually show me how to do any of this and I still have that desire to learn from others.
So get out there and see what you can do
Great job on the write up Brian. That looks amazing!
I just got a nasty rock chip on my unpainted grill. The entire nose of my car has 3M on it, except for the grill. When I purchased the car, they stated that couldn't do the grill because the 3M wouldn't stick?? I have already ordered a new grill and for something to do I'm thinking about painting the old one to match my car (just to see how different it will look although my car is already silver).
I just got a nasty rock chip on my unpainted grill. The entire nose of my car has 3M on it, except for the grill. When I purchased the car, they stated that couldn't do the grill because the 3M wouldn't stick?? I have already ordered a new grill and for something to do I'm thinking about painting the old one to match my car (just to see how different it will look although my car is already silver).
So get out there and see what you can do
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