Takeda SRI installed =)
 

Just installed this sRi and love it....wish i had the money to dyno befores and afters but the sound alone is un-godly....i love it....def a must do...and only took 30mins to install

https://acurazine.com/forums/picture...ictureid=45709

Nice.... I just installed mine yesterday! Thats crazy you did it so fast! It took me more than 30 mins to install lol...

Def helps when u work at a Honda dealer... I couldn't imagine anyone else touching my car lol

where did you buy it from...

Idk it was an early birthday present... If it wasn't through any vendor probably eBay

I got mine for $220 shipped. They are pretty slow with the shipping, but I got my intake in about a 7 business days.

http://www.garagespec.com/products/takeda25 (Polished model)
http://www.garagespec.com/products/takeda24 (Unpolished model)

30 mins is record timing... im pretty mechanically inclined and it def took about an hour. Then again I was in no rush.. Def an awesome mod:thumbsup:

BTW... I got some sound clips!

Before the install:
http://i1136.photobucket.com/albums/...h_MVI_4142.jpg

After Install... That sound is LEGIT!
http://i1136.photobucket.com/albums/...h_MVI_4143.jpg

And this is what is sounds like inside the car....you can hear the vtech kick in
http://i1136.photobucket.com/albums/...h_MVI_4144.jpg

So worth it.....

Lol I installed it at home without my good tools, I'm sure any other techs out there would agree even 30mins is slacking :) . But then again V6 timing belts only take 45mins and I still charge $350 labor on the side :X

Not to pee on anyone's cheeroes but why pay 200+ for increased sound w/out performance? Get a catback!

Isn't the catback $1300? Plus the cost of installation is an additional 200 dollars. lol I don't think a $1500 upgrade is in the same ball park as $220 upgrade (although that is eventually next :wish:)...

Depending what you get/engine u have (3.5 or 3.7), it can be anywhere between 1,100-1,600. I'm not mechanically inclined so I paid to have it installed as well, cost 110.

not to pee on your cheerio's but there is a performance increase for low end. :tongue:

plus paying 200+ vs 1500+ is a whole nother story.

It doesn't overall up hp it just reallocates it. +15 low end, -15 mid range. I'm basing this on my personal observation having had it installed brielfly and that of other knowledgeable AZ members who have also had or have it installed :thumbsup:


The numbers used are for demonstration purposes, not based on factual data~

I don't pee in cereal, but I don't swim in BS either; it's just a noisemaker.

i like intake sound better than exhaust sound. You get that aggressive motor sound not farting.

That sounds like a lot for an extra 10 -15 HP...

I can't justify getting a catback/axleback on the 4G for their current prices based on performance alone. But since I hated that the stock quad had mini tips, which was actually a dual w/ a thin piece of metal in the middle to give the appearance of quad and sounded (or lack of sound) was that of a touring car rather than the aggressively styled beast I want. The 1,210 total cost with actual performance increase was a no brainer, for me... But then again I'm planning on getting HRE or forgestar 20"s next summer for wheel weight savings, again for increased performance.


I won't go as far as saying the intake is the equivalent of getting stick on fender vents because it's not gaudy and the intake does increase MPG, but srsly 200+ :rolleyes: ?



Think you're confusing engine, turbo, SC'er noise with intake noise and although I'm not mechanically inclined i can tell the difference. My catback is a glorious sound; stuck in traffic yesterday a 750Li pulls up next to me, my wife tells me that he's trying to get my attention so I put down my window and the guy asks what exhaust is that, can I rev it in neutral and if I can hammer it from 1st/2nd once I get some space in front of me.. He said that he has a system on his g37 but I have the exact note he wants..

Common occurance FYI.

yea but everyone has their own thing going. you can say its just sound but to me if it helps low end its considered performance. I'm not saying its a HUGE + in performance but its there. As for exhaust, yes its costly and I agree that the price is justified but not everyone can throw down 2 grand on their car without some initial planning (unless you balla balla). and I would suggest if you want to get a j-pipe and hfcat/test pipe you should get it all installed at the same time to save you some labor charge.

I'm getting long j & hfpcs installed at the same time (richie get on it!), because installing one before the other is repetitive work. To install a catback you don't have to move, install, uninstall anything other than the OEM system.

<|~~~ balla on a budget lol

Have people run into many issues running these intakes long term on the 3.7?

It's a metal tube with a sensor mount; not really a wear part.

Not worried about the SRI holding up itself, but problems with MAP/MAF sensors, maybe even O2 sensors living premature lives?

I've had cold air intakes, nitrous, or forced induction on every Honda/Acura I've owned the last 15 years; never had an issue with the air flow/manifold pressure/intake temperature sensors going bad.

:rofl: Nology Hotwires=$250

SAVE YOUR MONEY

with all do respect and no feelings being hurt, honda just started using MAF vs MAP sensors....not saying that any damage would be done to the MAF, but the last 15years never included a MAF. I myself have been looking into nitrous for the 4th gen....and maybe even AEM EMS2, i feel we can squeeze more power out of it beyond 6800rpm, and eliminating the 135 govenor, and id like to tune it to run on the colder plugs and nitrous setup, considering the supercharger is looking way too expensive for the little horsepower its promising....

You're actually in better shape with MAF than you ware with MAP for boost. To do any serious boost applications, or use any of the aftermarket ECUs for tuning, you really have to convert the car to use a standard denso maf sensor. Where you might run the risk of over-ranging the map sensor since it's actually pressure sensitive - the MAF is just a plenum monitoring O² saturation. You can trick MAP sensors with resistance modification, which is what most entry level turbo kits for the honda/acura line included. To really dial one in and maximize your tune, you have to go wideband.

On nitrous - you would also benefit from the MAF from a safety factor; as the O² sats climb, it's going to account and allocate fuel. Nitrous isn't rocket fuel, it's just an oxidizer. Spray it in and increase the rate you're able to burn.

I have a Zex kit from my S2000 that I've been talking myself out of putting on the TL. I would suggest that is the way to go if you're going to spray it. They build the solenoids into a nice concealable aluminum block, providing clean input/output lines for the fuel and the nitrous. You run power to it, a lead to the TPS, and a switched pair to the cabin for arming it. Instead of the traditional "go baby go" button, you arm the system, and when the sensor (you calibrate it for each car by pushing a button on the solenoid box and saving the setting) reads WOT voltage, the solenoids fire. The P2R throttle spacers are pre-tapped for a nitrous nozzle; makes a great clean installation.

Zex nitrous kit for sale in the black market if you were serious. :)