Jpipe if ike $500

Pully is like $200.

what is the best bang for the buck?

whcih woudl you do first? does either one have a downside?

 

j-pipe hands down.

 

I don't have the pully installed on my car but i do have the jpipe.I would also choose the jpipe for the increase hp/tq and the improved change in the original exhaust tone,imo.

However,you may want to consider the difference in the cost factor between the purchase price and install cost (if applicable) for the two items.

During the install of the jpipe i had to add a spacer between the chassis and the cross support to prevent rubbing issues.At present i hear/feel a very slight buzz during acceleration,this happened after the install so i will say with some certainity it has to do with the jpipe.

 

I have both, get rv6 long jpipe first.

 

You will get more power from the j-pipe.

Our XLR8 V2 j-pipe on a 3G TL made peak gains of 30wtq and 19 whp. We should have it available to ship soon for the 4G TL FWD and AWD.

 

I believe a catback/replacement mufflers is the best power bump. Many have done magnaflow mufflers for less than $300.

The long J pipe would be your better of the two. RV6 has one in production that has good fitment and no reported vibration issues, though he may not have any in stock.

I maintain that at < $100 - the pulley is a thought, but not at that cost.

 

yep its been verified. sick gains

 

Mufflers increase/decrease noise and have next to no gain in power. I've seen catbacks that dyno less when testing was preformed back to back.

I know all the tricks to manipulating dyno numbers. I can't tell you how many cai's I've sold just by doing closed dyno pulls with theirs and open hood with mine.

I have a rv6 jpipe on mine and wouldn't bother with the pulleys.

 

No contest...J all the way...

 

I agree with everybody-if you want more HP, get the J-pipe.

The pulley gives you more immediate throttle response.

 

as to a jpipe... is there a huge difference between the ones that I've seen on the market?

the RV6 and XLR8 and ATLP?

getting almost 20 whp from a pipe is huge! is that legit? if I bolt on a jpipe am I going to be able to feel the power gains or is it one of those mods where you "think" you feel the gains but it's hard to tell.... or is it going to be bolted on and right away I notice the car has more raw power?

also - doe sthe jpipe rob low end power to make top end gains..so that the car is slower in day to day low end and only gains in the upper revs...

thanks.

 

it looks like the RV6 is a jpipe that replaces the 3rd cat as well, whereas teh RV6 and ATLP jpipes don't remove the third cat, and if you want to remove the 3rd cat on those sysptems you have to buy a separate test pipe..

my goal is to unlock more power, get a slightly throatier/sportier sound but i do NOT want drone when I cruise on the freeway.. been there done that on prior cars.. I don't mind increased sound..but drone..the kind where you get sound waves that pulse/make your ears throb.. no thanks.

would any of the jpipe/test pipe combos really make the car *that* loud assuming I still had the stock cat back system??

has anyone done any dyno comparisons or has anyone ran different jpipes on their 4G and can report what they did or did not like about hte various setups available?

 

All good questions I'd like to know the answer to as well...

 

From what I remember the (i'm old and the memory is not fantastic) the RV6 made a little more power down low, and the ATLP made more above 4200 rpm. If you have the stock exhaust (cat-back) I don't think you will have any issues with drone or exhaust note. I really didn't notice any difference in the exhaust note with just a j-pipe and racing cat; it was not until I put on the cat-back exhaust system (ATLP) that there was any noticeable difference in sound.

 

Our XLR8 V2 j-pipes just arrived. We will be posting pics shortly. These also delete the third cat and have show on the 3G TL to make some serious power.

 

Josh, do the V2 jpipes come with some sort of spacer to bump the underbody spacer down? (the RV6 one had this issue when used on 2012+)

Or are the pipes already fabricated to not have any issues with this for all 4G models?

 

anybody have an actual dyno sheet for the j pipe? I know the 3g guys are getting huge gains so the 4gs shouldnt be too far off but I have yet to see any dyno'd numbers. Just curious.

 

Well our design is different than the RV6 j-pipe so there shouldn't be any issues. We'll be posting up info soon. We just moved so we've spent most of our time getting organized.

We have a few dynos of the 3G TL j-pipe but not the 4G TL j-pipe. The AWD TL is too difficult to dyno at this time. However, the FWD TL could be dynoed. We would be willing to offer a $100 credit to anyone who is willing to do dyno it.

 

Josh why is it so difficult to dyno the SH-AWD? Don't GTR's and other brands have torque vectoring AWD's, how are those vehicles accurately dyno'd?

 

It's very expensive to dyno AWD because you have to have rollers for all 4 wheels, and it's dangerous because the whole car needs to be secured to the dyno in a way that doesn't allow the car to wander around on the rollers or move even slightly forward or back. I wouldn't pursue it just due to the danger....there's not much gained. Just test the same engine in the same car with the same transmission on the 2WD model and make some engineering assumptions about power loss in the AWD setup.

 

Regarding the central question, J-pipe or pulley....I don't have viewpoints to offer on the J-pipe. However, when I installed underdrive pulleys on a 3L BMW several things were immediately noticeable: a) engine, which was already smooth, was much smoother. much more enjoyable to wind out...which I now do every chance I get, and b) additional power was noticeable, not dramatic, but definitely worth the effort. I wouldn't think of driving without it. So for my TL, I'd do the pulley first and then consider the J. My 2 cents.

dd

 

I have the LW stock size UR pulley, the car definitely rev's much faster. I don't know if the gains were noticeable, but getting higher in the RPM range is beneficial in honda engines.

 

With the Pulley ull notice the engine will rev up faster

 

BS Do it all the time up here in Portland. Not an issue. Have personally had RDX on the 4 wheel Dyno twice.

 

Apples & oranges here...I have both on my 3.5 altima & I'll say that if you want a cool sounding engine (revs up & comes down quicker)...and don't have the full $500, then get the pulley that MIGHT net you 5hp...or you can drop the $500 and get some THRUST and torque...I plan on getting the j-pipe first & foremost for the TL. Pulley is for when you run out of "bolt onslaught to buy IMO.

 

That's true...

 

Im planning on getting both the pulley ang RV6 long pipe, can't wait to see the outcome. For those with the long pipe do you really smell exhaust fumes in the cabin?

 

No, our XLR8 V2 j-pipe eliminates the third cat as well. But there are still two primary cats.

 

I installed my own ATLP V2 J-pipe and ATLP Race Pipe and also noticed some buzzing noises around 2-3k rpm, it is not present outside of this range. I figured it was definitely the new exhaust components since this did not occur before the install. Turns out it is the OEM heat shield that can be bolted to the race pipe assembly. One of the screws were improperly tightened and allowed the two halves of the wrap around heat shield to oscillate and "buzz".. I've driven 4k miles with the J-pipe, Race Pipe, and post resonator E-Cutout, all dIY, no problems so far. Except I haven't been impressed with the gains at all, not the "holy shit this was worth the money" upgrade. In fact i think I lost some torque at low rpms, wish i had a way to clock my 0-60s accurately. But to be fair, I am probably due for some new tires, not sure if this is the case.

 

A Light Weight Pulley is probably next on my list, maybe this time il do some sort of before and after pull tests.

 

Thank you,the RV 6 j pipe deletes the third cat and there is no test pipe just a flex pipe,as such i don't have/ need the heat shield.

To date none of the performance mods on the TL has any type of "wow" factor to it.I have them all except the pulley and will not do it since i am doubtful it will add much to what i already have.

The TL is not a mod friendly car,this may change somewhat if a proper tune ever becomes a reality. .

 

I'm crossing my fingers and toes for a tuning solution to come out soon. Maybe we will hear about one once the 4th gen model phases out and the new TLX comes in? Until then, I'm going to switch over to some more immediately practical Mods like tires, wheels, suspension, brakes.

This may be another discussion for another thread, but do you guys think Mods come out consistently after a production model life ends and more of the cars are recirculated as pre-owns?

 

^^^^^

Let's put it this way.

If the vehicle model is very popular (meaning lots and lots of them on the road), then aftermarket shops will continue to release new performance parts for that vehicle, even years after production has ended.

On the other hand, if the vehicle model is not popular, then very few aftermarket shops will risk losing money producing new performance parts for that vehicle, EVEN if that vehicle model is still in production.

 

Edward'TLS, well said.

Wilson,some cars like the Mustang,Corvette,Subaru's to mention a few will always have a ton of aftermarket support based on their popularity.

The 4G Tl on the other hand does not fall in that category,the sales were low and most people are probably comfortable with the performance as is.There is a supercharger in the works from CT Engineering ( according to them ) and along with that there will have to be a tune/piggy back computer of some sort.

 

It sounds weird, but the pulley made the car "feel" lighter with the faster up/down of the engine revolutions. I remember not regretting buying it when I did.

 

Not weird at all Rockstar, the rotational mass of the pully is reduced and as such less inertia is required,that is why the engine will rev up faster and vice versa.

A similar effect can be had when using light weight rims and tires, so while extra wide and oversized wheels that vary significantly from original sizes can look cool it will not necessarily assist in performance. Reduced weight is the key.