First ever Excelerate J-pipe finally broken after 3.5 years of use.
#1
Colorado Springs
Thread Starter
First ever Excelerate J-pipe finally broken after 3.5 years of use.
I was the initial test car for the Excelerate J-Pipe back in June, 2010. I actually had it installed by the guys at Billy Boat Performance Exhaust where they designed and built it, so you could say I was the first guy to have this installed on my car.
It gave me many years of trouble-free maintenance as well as a bump in MPG's and some power. A few months after the install, I also added a third-cat delete pipe and Takeda intake.
This January, I was starting to notice a buzzing noise during acceleration only at certain times in the RPM band. This buzzing became more frequent but with a busy life, I couldn't stop to take a look at it. Earlier this month, I saw a post on how some of you with aftermarket J-pipes were also getting buzzing noises and the fix was spacing out the crossmember with washers in between. The noise was getting worse and then the pitch and tone of the exhaust changed to the tone you normally hear when your exhaust has a hole in it. Just to be on the safe side, I visited a Fastenall store to get some washers to do the fix myself if my diagnosis turned up negative on an exhaust leak.
Once I got the car jacked up and on jacks (not an easy task), I got underneath the car and noticed the flex pipe had some obvious corrosion and thinning of the metal strands. Then I started up the car and got underneath it and although I could not feel any pulsating leak, I could definitely hear noise exiting from around the flex pipe. So I turned the car off and then proceeded to take off the crossmember and then J-pipe/cat delete pipe. I took pictures of it that I will post later on tonight, but the bottom line is that the flex pipe is toast. Without a doubt, I cast suspicion on the rubbing/contact between the flex pipe and the crossmember. The rest of the pipe, including the gaskets, are in remarkably good shape.
Since my J-pipe was free, I'm going to find a place to repair it and maybe make a modification to weld on a longer flex pipe as well as welding on the third cat delete pipe so that I can have my own home-made J-pipe V2 like many of you already have.
So your individual experience may vary, but my J-pipe lasted me over 70,000 miles since the installation and about 3.5 years.
Oh, and for those of you tracking my recent install of the SPEC Clutch Stage 2+ clutch that I had installed in January, the issue of a chattering clutch was almost completely remedied as soon as I put the stock J-pipe and 3rd cat. back on the car. I can't give you any explantion for why this is except that maybe the low end-torque has been regained and has allowed smoother transitions and less throttle input to get the car moving from a stop. Interesting!
It gave me many years of trouble-free maintenance as well as a bump in MPG's and some power. A few months after the install, I also added a third-cat delete pipe and Takeda intake.
This January, I was starting to notice a buzzing noise during acceleration only at certain times in the RPM band. This buzzing became more frequent but with a busy life, I couldn't stop to take a look at it. Earlier this month, I saw a post on how some of you with aftermarket J-pipes were also getting buzzing noises and the fix was spacing out the crossmember with washers in between. The noise was getting worse and then the pitch and tone of the exhaust changed to the tone you normally hear when your exhaust has a hole in it. Just to be on the safe side, I visited a Fastenall store to get some washers to do the fix myself if my diagnosis turned up negative on an exhaust leak.
Once I got the car jacked up and on jacks (not an easy task), I got underneath the car and noticed the flex pipe had some obvious corrosion and thinning of the metal strands. Then I started up the car and got underneath it and although I could not feel any pulsating leak, I could definitely hear noise exiting from around the flex pipe. So I turned the car off and then proceeded to take off the crossmember and then J-pipe/cat delete pipe. I took pictures of it that I will post later on tonight, but the bottom line is that the flex pipe is toast. Without a doubt, I cast suspicion on the rubbing/contact between the flex pipe and the crossmember. The rest of the pipe, including the gaskets, are in remarkably good shape.
Since my J-pipe was free, I'm going to find a place to repair it and maybe make a modification to weld on a longer flex pipe as well as welding on the third cat delete pipe so that I can have my own home-made J-pipe V2 like many of you already have.
So your individual experience may vary, but my J-pipe lasted me over 70,000 miles since the installation and about 3.5 years.
Oh, and for those of you tracking my recent install of the SPEC Clutch Stage 2+ clutch that I had installed in January, the issue of a chattering clutch was almost completely remedied as soon as I put the stock J-pipe and 3rd cat. back on the car. I can't give you any explantion for why this is except that maybe the low end-torque has been regained and has allowed smoother transitions and less throttle input to get the car moving from a stop. Interesting!
Last edited by prepreludesh; 05-27-2014 at 09:37 AM.
#2
6G TLX-S
The stock J-pipe and stock cat are more resistive (in terms of exhaust gas flow) when compared to the aftermarket pair.
It is a general rule that higher exhaust flow rate will almost always rob away some low-end torque, but add some power to the high engine rpm band.
That's why the significant return of low-end torque and better low-speed throttle response when the more restrictive OEM parts are back in place. However, also expect the loss of high-end horsepower now when compared to the previous higher flow aftermarket parts.
It is a general rule that higher exhaust flow rate will almost always rob away some low-end torque, but add some power to the high engine rpm band.
That's why the significant return of low-end torque and better low-speed throttle response when the more restrictive OEM parts are back in place. However, also expect the loss of high-end horsepower now when compared to the previous higher flow aftermarket parts.
#3
Former Sponsor
iTrader: (1)
Thanks for the post as I think it's trying to demonstrate the durability of the product. However, I was bit confused by the title as I thought the actual j-pipe had broken. The flex section is always the weakest link especially with these large V6 motors because they rock back and forth. So a simple replacement of that flex section will get you back up and running. And since you want to modify it and make it a V2 style j-pipe that should be an easy upgrade for a muffler shop.
Also if you just want the flex pipe replaced email me and I might be able to take care of you.
Also if you just want the flex pipe replaced email me and I might be able to take care of you.
#4
Former Sponsor
iTrader: (1)
Thanks for the post as I think it's trying to demonstrate the durability of the product. However, I was bit confused by the title as I thought the actual j-pipe had broken. The flex section is always the weakest link especially with these large V6 motors because they rock back and forth. So a simple replacement of that flex section will get you back up and running. And since you want to modify it and make it a V2 style j-pipe that should be an easy upgrade for a muffler shop.
Also if you just want the flex pipe replaced email me and I might be able to take care of you.
Also if you just want the flex pipe replaced email me and I might be able to take care of you.
#6
Colorado Springs
Thread Starter
The stock J-pipe and stock cat are more resistive (in terms of exhaust gas flow) when compared to the aftermarket pair.
It is a general rule that higher exhaust flow rate will almost always rob away some low-end torque, but add some power to the high engine rpm band.
That's why the significant return of low-end torque and better low-speed throttle response when the more restrictive OEM parts are back in place. However, also expect the loss of high-end horsepower now when compared to the previous higher flow aftermarket parts.
It is a general rule that higher exhaust flow rate will almost always rob away some low-end torque, but add some power to the high engine rpm band.
That's why the significant return of low-end torque and better low-speed throttle response when the more restrictive OEM parts are back in place. However, also expect the loss of high-end horsepower now when compared to the previous higher flow aftermarket parts.
Thanks for the post as I think it's trying to demonstrate the durability of the product. However, I was bit confused by the title as I thought the actual j-pipe had broken. The flex section is always the weakest link especially with these large V6 motors because they rock back and forth. So a simple replacement of that flex section will get you back up and running. And since you want to modify it and make it a V2 style j-pipe that should be an easy upgrade for a muffler shop.
Also if you just want the flex pipe replaced email me and I might be able to take care of you.
Also if you just want the flex pipe replaced email me and I might be able to take care of you.
Here are some interesting side by side pictures for anybody who cares to see them, as promised:
#7
Intermediate
Hi, you mentioned experiencing a bump in MPG...can you elaborate on how much change or when you observed this (highway, city, or overall)? And, now that you went back to stock, did you then observe a decrease in MPG? I have been on the fence about getting a J-pipe... An increase in Gas mileage would make it more attractive. Thank you in advance.
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#8
Colorado Springs
Thread Starter
Hi, you mentioned experiencing a bump in MPG...can you elaborate on how much change or when you observed this (highway, city, or overall)? And, now that you went back to stock, did you then observe a decrease in MPG? I have been on the fence about getting a J-pipe... An increase in Gas mileage would make it more attractive. Thank you in advance.
After the reinstallation of the stock exhaust, I don't think it's a fair assessment yet, but I'm not seeing better than 23.0mpg of mixed driving (60/40 hwy/city). A lot has changed since then and now (with 80,000 miles on the car) like the fact I have different tires, spark plugs that are nearing the end of their life and an intake filter that could probably stand a good cleaning. Plus, I have added the front and rear OEM lip kit, which might actually add some drag to the car, lowering the MPGs.
The following users liked this post:
juaijao (06-13-2014)
#11
Makes no sense ^^^ but I ain't going to doubt you. From what I'm seeing the set up is almost the same. just one with a cat one without. Like a Toda header vs a Mugen. 1-5 hp difference give or take once the cat is replace.
#13
To be honest I don't care about HP Gains. I'm more looking better flow and sound. After seeing investing a lot of money in certain bolt on gain no power i'm not worried about HP Gain until hondata decides to step in.
#14
Moderator
iTrader: (1)
^so, the fuck is the point of replacing that 3rd cat with a test pipe?
if you're just after sound, replace the mid-muffler with a straight pipe. a muffler shop will have to weld it. then you could replace the resonator with a larger resonator then finish it off with different mufflers, like magnaflow.
if you're just after sound, replace the mid-muffler with a straight pipe. a muffler shop will have to weld it. then you could replace the resonator with a larger resonator then finish it off with different mufflers, like magnaflow.
#15
Honestly I could give a fuck. All I want to know is from the picture i'm seeing could I simply swap the cat out with a test pipe or a weld on one form a muffler shop. Simple yes or know. If you don't know then its simple. YOU DON'T KNOW.
#17
Cool all I want to be sure about thanks! Oh on a side note.. you do not know what I have already done for me to ask that question or the reason behind it. But I'll leave it as that. Thanks again for confirming.
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