Finnaly got my dyno tune.
02-01-2016, 12:14 PM
#1
Finnaly got my dyno tune.
My local tuner just got his AWD dyno, so I went down and finally got a tune.
Please note that the base numbers are with KTuners "tune 4" "HFPC,J-pipe, Exhaust".
Results were 20 HP, and 17 ftp across the whole power band. Air fuel ratios were really bad with the CTE icebox before the tune.
Please note that the base numbers are with KTuners "tune 4" "HFPC,J-pipe, Exhaust".
Results were 20 HP, and 17 ftp across the whole power band. Air fuel ratios were really bad with the CTE icebox before the tune.
The following 4 users liked this post by CerberusKy:
02-02-2016, 08:34 AM
#4
Tuner also said that the numbers would look better if he let it cool down a bit more between runs.
Tuner also played with moving the vtec engagement point, and anything he did made a troth in the torque curve; so he left it right where Honda set it (4700 I think).
Additionally I asked him to reduce the acceleration lag (drive-by-wire?) and he told me that in his experience it really messed with the traction control system on Honda/Acura cars, and should be left at the factory setting.
FWIW: if you are running a CTE Icebox and don't have a tune, I would suggest going back to stock.
Hope this helps anyone wondering if they should tune or not.
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HeartTLs (02-02-2016)
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02-02-2016, 02:51 PM
#8
CTE Icebox (save your money!)
HFPCs (RV6)
J-Pipe (Can't remember the manufacturer)
High-flow 3rd cat (Can't remember the manufacturer)
ATLP resonated cat-back
Dyno was run with stock 18" tires/rims; but I put on light-weight 19" setup for the summer.
HFPCs (RV6)
J-Pipe (Can't remember the manufacturer)
High-flow 3rd cat (Can't remember the manufacturer)
ATLP resonated cat-back
Dyno was run with stock 18" tires/rims; but I put on light-weight 19" setup for the summer.
02-02-2016, 03:50 PM
#10
Excellent gains. More proof about the intakes for these vehicles and more feedback about exactly why I didn't move VTEC. With more and more people sharing this is going to be one very well educated vehicle platform!
The following 3 users liked this post by KSeriesTuner:
02-03-2016, 08:38 AM
#11
If your HFPC are RV6 then the 3rd must be XLR8 based on your older post.
New toys make happy boys
02-03-2016, 09:06 AM
#12
All motor
Great gains! That's what we like to see.
If you are on the hunt for more power, try a large (3.5" or 4" CAI). I gained 2whp/6wtq over my Fujita CAI on my J30. I had the J37 TB and Intake Manifold, so I don't see why the gains would be much different. You will probably see more since you are a 3.7L.
If you are on the hunt for more power, try a large (3.5" or 4" CAI). I gained 2whp/6wtq over my Fujita CAI on my J30. I had the J37 TB and Intake Manifold, so I don't see why the gains would be much different. You will probably see more since you are a 3.7L.
02-03-2016, 10:32 AM
#13
I cheated and looked at your post history and saw where you got the J-Pipe
If your HFPC are RV6 then the 3rd must be XLR8 based on your older post.
New toys make happy boys
If your HFPC are RV6 then the 3rd must be XLR8 based on your older post.
New toys make happy boys
02-03-2016, 11:38 AM
#14
I don't have a dyno to prove which intake is best, but Kenny stated that air velocity/density was higher with CT-E over stock in my vehicle. Your fuel trims aren't perfect from factory and CT-E intake exacerbates that, but with tuning it should yield the most gains.
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CerberusKy (02-06-2016)
02-04-2016, 04:51 PM
#15
I have read a few times with the intake BOTH the Tekeda and the CT-E either not much gains or no gain with or without a tune. And I'm all for spending $ when needed but for $500 plus for the CT-E I personally don't see the worth. I'm still on the fence with the J-PipE myself but I like the gains that the HFC/PCD. And it seems like 250whp is the base for having these mods which is pretty good. Thanks for posting the Dyno sheet. I still researching on what direction I'm trying to go.. once I get that figured out I will be posting mines as well
02-04-2016, 11:28 PM
#16
6 MT.
Tuner also said that the numbers would look better if he let it cool down a bit more between runs.
Tuner also played with moving the vtec engagement point, and anything he did made a troth in the torque curve; so he left it right where Honda set it (4700 I think).
Additionally I asked him to reduce the acceleration lag (drive-by-wire?) and he told me that in his experience it really messed with the traction control system on Honda/Acura cars, and should be left at the factory setting.
FWIW: if you are running a CTE Icebox and don't have a tune, I would suggest going back to stock.
Hope this helps anyone wondering if they should tune or not.
Tuner also said that the numbers would look better if he let it cool down a bit more between runs.
Tuner also played with moving the vtec engagement point, and anything he did made a troth in the torque curve; so he left it right where Honda set it (4700 I think).
Additionally I asked him to reduce the acceleration lag (drive-by-wire?) and he told me that in his experience it really messed with the traction control system on Honda/Acura cars, and should be left at the factory setting.
FWIW: if you are running a CTE Icebox and don't have a tune, I would suggest going back to stock.
Hope this helps anyone wondering if they should tune or not.
Do you think, with a tune, CT-E is better?
I understand with no tune, it seems like it reduces performance But fully tuned, perhaps it's superior.
02-05-2016, 07:33 AM
#18
I have been told by KTuner, and HeartTLs (HeartTLs know these cars pretty well) that with a tune the CTE Icebox is superior to the stock intake. But personally I have no hard results to prove it. I can tell you that after the tune my car is way more responsive and is so much more fun to drive.
02-05-2016, 07:42 AM
#19
May I know where did you tune your car?
what is the mileages on your car?
I have 115,000 mileages on my car, should i do the tune?
In the end, if when I bought the car I knew what I know now, I would have just done suspension/tires/wheels, and a more aggressive muffler with quad tips (I like that look).
Personally for power mods I would either do nothing or [HFPC/PCD, J-Pipe, (maybe a tune)]. Until we have some type of forced induction the power gains are not dramatic.
Last edited by CerberusKy; 02-05-2016 at 07:49 AM.
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CerberusKy (02-06-2016)
02-08-2016, 12:20 PM
#21
^^^^^^ The 4g transmission is fragile? Several of the 3g guys have been running around on 400 whp on the auto for a couple years now. I was under the impression that the 4g awd transmission was stronger??
Hey CerberusKy, I'm in Orem too, what are the chances
Hey CerberusKy, I'm in Orem too, what are the chances
02-08-2016, 02:32 PM
#23
THAT's AMAZING! I'm telling you what my personal experience has been. If you search you'll also see plenty of AT 4G members having propeller shafts and torque converters replaced, sometimes more than once. The AT trans is so fragile that Acura has even taken it upon themselves to extend the powertrain warranty on 4G's to 100k/8yrs
.
02-08-2016, 04:20 PM
#24
THAT's AMAZING! I'm telling you what my personal experience has been. If you search you'll also see plenty of AT 4G members having propeller shafts and torque converters replaced, sometimes more than once. The AT trans is so fragile that Acura has even taken it upon themselves to extend the powertrain warranty on 4G's to 100k/8yrs .
.
02-08-2016, 07:58 PM
#25
THAT's AMAZING! I'm telling you what my personal experience has been. If you search you'll also see plenty of AT 4G members having propeller shafts and torque converters replaced, sometimes more than once. The AT trans is so fragile that Acura has even taken it upon themselves to extend the powertrain warranty on 4G's to 100k/8yrs .
.
02-09-2016, 02:24 PM
#28
The extension on powertrain from what I remember applies to AWD models only. Also you're well past OEM warranty window on both mileage and time. Once you're outside that window you cannot extend it. Maybe you can get an aftermarket warranty, which I do not recommend.