jsherm007

So I found an intake for the 2008-2010 Accord on Ebay, here:

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/08-09...Q5fAccessories

So I noticed that the Takeda intake has the same part number TR-1007P for both the Accord V6 and the 09+ TL.

So if this Ebay intake fits the Accord, then it should fit the TL. I think I might jump on this, the seller has tons of these... Seller has 35,000+ feedbak at 99.5% too.

08-09 Honda Accord 3.5L V6 Air Intake Kit 2008 2009

jsherm007

Search: 08-09 Honda Accord 3.5L V6 Air Intake Kit 2008 2009

BigWopHH

This doesn't look this is has the same bend, so there MAY be some clearance issues. Just something to look out for. And it probably doesn't include the second coupler like the Takeda kit, so no AWD compatibility, most likely...

jsherm007

I wonder if you'll get a bend at the large blue cupling? Looks like it'll have flexibility there.

jsherm007

So I got the $70 intake. Here's what the install looks like:





I didn't totally replace the metal line with the blue hose, couldn't get it off the throttle body. Otherwise it would have been a bit cleaner. However, for $70 I got an intake with no clearance problems, no CEL, and an easy install. I think it's good for what it is.

BigWopHH

How does it sound?

Excelerate

iTrader: (1)

I really cannot ever understand why anyone would ever put an ebay intake on their car, especially one that costs $40k. It's not like it's a 1990 Civic or Protege and you bought the car for $500. This is a luxury vehicle with a sophisticated engine management system. And on top of it the intake system now incorporates a Mass Air Flow sensor. I can guarantee you that that intake did not take into account how the air flow would hit the MAF sensor.

BigWopHH

Tell him how you really feel, Josh!

jsherm007

Doesn't Josh sell the $300 intakes? Maybe he doesn't want his sales affected. Oh well, can't make everyone happy today I guess.

The intake is actually VERY tame and quiet, until vtec anyway.

jsherm007

And with no CEL light I guess the MAF sensor is doing just fine...

jsherm007

Still no CEL... Now with about 220 miles since install, I drive about 42mi each way to work. I can agree that they probably didn't so a scientific study on each intake, but it's working just fine. My MPG last week was 23.7, so far this week its 25.2.

Eoanou

My only gripe is that the air filter may flow better, but by the same token may not filter air as well as the OEM filter. More sand and dirt might get through the filter and damage the motor.

This won't have any immediate effects, only until maybe 75K+ miles will you actually start to notice you're car wasn't as fast as it was.

jsherm007

That's a fair argument. I was at Advanced Auto Parts today getting a blind spot mirror and one of the sales guys wanted to see my TL, he had a white 3G, and I have a white 4G.

He was suggesting I get an AEM filter to replace the one that came with the intake. He said they sell the same blue one, but it is inferior to say the AEM. I think any filter, AEM, K&N, etc, all all supposed to be subpar in filtration to OEM. I may change the filter in the near future.

jsherm007

Also, the guy selling the 'ebay intakes' has 36,111 feedback @ 99.5% positive. Not saying he's a brilliant intake designer, but he sure is selling a lot of car parts.

George Knighton

Well. I wouldn't do it, either. These cars have a cold air intake stock, you know.

jsherm007

True. But intakes, like Takeda, already prove increases over stock. Plus I live in MN, I have a cold air intake for the next 6mo! High tomorrow is sub 25F...

Excelerate

iTrader: (1)

It's not just about sales. I've always been a firm believer in: You get what you pay for. And I think it's unfair to manufacturers, who spend money and resources to actually invent and research new products, that they can be underhanded by cheap Chinese intakes sold on ebay or for that matter any part that is a poor imitation of a good product. Buying ebay products doesn't sustain innovation. People on ebay are generally too dumb to make their own product so they copy someone else's and therefore it makes it difficult for ppl like ourselves to have new products in this market.

d-townhakuzo

I completely agree...

NAiL05

Honestly that intake looks cheap but then it is. The filter I wouldnt trust it. The piping and hose clamps are fine but the install doesn't make it pretty but it does work. If I were to buy any cheap Ebay kit I always replace the filter with a legit dryflow.

skyy406

ah.... you bought a Hot Air Intake.... probably great for increased horsepower

ethenol

It's a tube......................... It flows air I have a 13.18 second tl had a 12 second first gen cl. I also own a performance company!!! That crap is BS it is a tube. I hook up everyone I know with a 35 dollar tube. Quit whining... Sell somethin else that costs 300 dollars....................

ethenol

I like the intake. Looks good

NAiL05

Only thing that looks really ghetto to me in that kit so far is the double hose clamp...I dont understand why they did not just machine one whole tube...Guess they just got cheap lol...But I would get another filter compared to that one...I have seen ebay filters fall apart under heat and sometimes just putting some weight on it...The glue is not so legit on those things.

rikyrat

I see by reading this thread that some of you are dyno-ing your SH-AWD.
I am interested in knowing if they use 2 rollers front and rear or just one in the rear.
This may seem like a goofy question, but I had to ask.

I am planning to install this on my TL SH-AWD 6MT later this year, would love to do it, since I am driving to Seattle next week, but don't have the time.

NAiL05

You need an AWD dyno...unless you decide to disconnect the power transfer to the rear.

Excelerate

iTrader: (1)

It is a tube and air does flow through it but it also has a MAF sensor to read air flow and if the tube isn't set up correctly it will alter the readings and therefore the operation of the motor.

Great, you have a TL and had a CL. I have a 400 hp 09 GTi 2.0T, a 370 hp supercharged 07 Civic Si, a 365 hp turbo Accord 2.3, a 300 ft lb tq Tacoma, and a modified HD Nightrod. Does that make me more knowledgeable? I have owned a speed shop for 8 years now. Does that make me more knowledgeable?

None of those are factors. However, research and empirical evidence demonstrate the need for a proper tubular construction, a high quality and high-flowing air filter in order to make power safely. Just because you can install it on the car doesn't mean it is working properly.

prepreludesh

To add on to what Excelerate has said, the tube construction, as in length and diameter, has everything to do with how much extra power is made, and where in the RPM range it is made.

That little dinky tube (shorter than the Takeda Intake) will probably lose power everywhere in the RPM range except for 6000rpms and higher. For reference, a longer tube (that would be classified as a "cold air" intake) would generate power and torque down low, where it is most usable.

There really are no gains by having "colder" air versus "hotter" air going into the intake, because once the car is moving, all underhood air is being cycled around with the air from outside. Also, the amount of air that the V6 is gulping in will increase that air movement, so it's not like it's sucking up hot, stagnant 100 degree heat when the car is in motion.

In summary, the Ebay intake will lose power and the Takeda one, due to the way it was designed, will gain power.

Majofo

my bad.. wrong gen forum, couldn't tell from the pics. If the 4G TL does have a MAF sensor then that is a definite bonus. If the MAF was a part of the original intake piping you should sell the cheapo ebay intake and replace the original intake. If you're going to keep the ebay intake then get a quality filter.. all foam filters are a joke to be honest. They flow great but are all notoriously shitty at keeping dirt out. You aren't gaining anything besides the look & the sound if you can call that a gain. You're actually losing the gains over the OE intake especially if you bypassed the MAF, you're getting less hp & sucking in dirty air.

Majofo

I did some digging and couldn't find a single source of a MAF sensor on the 4G.. who can verify?

Excelerate

iTrader: (1)

It has a MAF sensor.

Majofo

I looked at CleanCL's tb bore thread and I didn't see anything.. You're not talking about the MAP sensor are you?

prepreludesh

The TL has both a MAF and MAP

Majofo

The 3G doesn't have a MAF and I couldn't find any reference from honda's estore for a MAF. It should be pretty simple to point out in a pic if you guys can post one.

Excelerate

iTrader: (1)

You are in the 4G TL section. The 3G TL does not have a MAF. It only has a MAP sensor. The 4G TL has a MAP and a MAF. If you need proof look in these instructions:

http://www.takedausa.com/media/pdf/0...%20V6-3.5L.pdf

Majofo

That clears it up.. thanks. I should make a better effort to read all the responses first. my bad.. So the ebay intake does have an adapter for the MAF as well as the Takeda and the OP didn't bypass it. The issue that's apparent then is the filter & the inherent SRI design. The winter is fine now but in the summer.. that intake along with the Takeda will be sucking in hot air during low speeds (traffic / city / idle), which will probably make the engine run a bit rich dropping your fuel efficiency. The takeda is a much better filter element but with both it's apparent that the MAF will need to be removed and cleaned periodically otherwise you may end up running lean. Like I mentioned before.. almost all aftermarket filters are poor. Don't buy an oiled filter, although typically decent at picking up dirt, the oil tends to sucks back adding to the contamination of MAF & don't use a high flow foam filter for the sake of your oil / engine life. If you intend to keep the intake, do some research and buy an appropriate filter which could cost you more than the price of the intake. Personally I'd switch back to the OE setup, since I assume they still utilize a cold air resonated snorkel.

Josh.. out of curiousity.. how long until a CAI becomes available?

prepreludesh

I think there are many things you do not understand about intake design in relation to hp, and how ECU's and engines work together with the sensor in your intake tract.

First off, having an intake like this dreadful Ebay intake doesn't mean that in hot weather and slow traffic, that your engine will be gulping up so much hot air that your computer will begin injecting more fuel... I think the thing that most people are forgetting about is that your engine is still using an EGR (Exhaust Gas Recirculation) port, meaning that a small amount of superhot exhaust gas is actually entering your intake. Manufacturers do this because a higher intake temperature will lower emissions, specifically Nitrous Oxides. The cold air versus hot air debate is dead in my opinion. You obviously did not read my bit about how an intake's size, shape and length are what actually produces the HP in an engine.

Did you ever see the Simpson's episode where Lisa scientifically proves that bully's are attracted to beating up nerds based on a chemical given off in a nerds sweat? And then at the end of the episode when she gives that conclusive argument, Homer remarks "So the reason bully's are so mean is just because they wanted attention..." and Lisa exclaims "No dad! Didn't you listen to anything I just said?" and he promptly shushes her and repeats "just wanted attention..." Well, you are doing a Homer right now...

Second, you claim that the MAF will need to be cleaned periodically just because an aftermarket filter is being used. You make it sound like with a stock filter, you'd never have to clean the MAF either. That is wrong. I've had friends with aftermarket intakes on their trucks and never had discrepencies with his MAF's. I believe that even K&N (the oiled filter you were talking about) has answered this question in their FAQ part on their website. They claim if you're oiling the filter correctly (on the outside, not inside) then you should never experience any "MAF coating." I believe stories of MAF's getting damaged or clogged is due to wives tales or preconceived notions or even incorrect installation.

For the record, the amount of lean-ness to the fuel-air mixture that a dirty MAF will give you is nowhere close to an engine-damaging effect. Even if the car leans out a full point in its entire RPM range, then it still won't blow up or cause damage, that's how rich a factory tuned car comes from the factory.

I agree with you telling this guy that he should switch back to a stock intake, but only compared to this piece of junk. Otherwise, the stock intake was designed with noise cancellation and other compromises in mind. The average consumer appreciates and expects that, but not somebody shopping for performance upgrades.

AckTL05

iTrader: (18)

I live by you get what you pay for. 40k on a car, what is 200 some would say. Well it is a lot since I was 19 when I bought my new TL, but I waited till I could afford parts for it and did not go cheap with them. I am sure there are other after market companies that will try and copy the AEM and such design, but for your sake don't ever get a cheap EBAY chinese garbage intake, or anything for that matter. You pay 300 for the intake, which is probably 50 in parts, but you also get the reinsurance that you have the best out there and the safest out there when you buy AEM or other reputable brands. Compromising HP and engine life for sound is worthless to me. Compromising HP and engine life for sound is worthless to me, its probably just as funny as stock civics with a obnoxiously loud exhaust that try and race me.

Majofo

I didn't mean to confuse by my previous comment. I didn't mean that it runs rich by injecting more fuel but running rich due to low density airflow. The A/F Ratio is monitored by the pcm using an algorithm utilizing several combined inputs including the primary 02 sensors, MAF, MAP & IAT sensors, which I'm sure you know. Short rams like the ebay intake & the takeda (bka WAI) suck in air from the engine bay, and when the car is at idle (no load) the vehicle is breathing hot / low density air making it a rich mixture, usually the system will then compensate depending on the delta in the feedback loop. Your argument about the egr system is invalid since they are designed to reduce nox emissions & knock under load when the engine is breathing cool dense air.. it's at this point where the egr balances the intake temps, but during idle / traffic it has very little impact.

Regarding the intake tube design determining hp, there some relevancy to the argument but not as detrimental as the temperature of the air it draws. Under load the vacuum effect within an intake tube is pretty linear. In relation to the ideal gas law, all things being equal.. pressure is inversely proportional to the volume and is directly proportional to the temperature. The engine cycle induces low pressure drawing in the external high pressure air into the intake, this is regulated by the throttle body. The relative volume of the intake has less to do with pressure than the temperature because the flow from the butterfly valve into the IM is pretty much always going to be the same where the butterfly valve is the barrier between the low pressure & high pressure. Where the volume & design of the intake is involved is the airflow which is where you'll typically see the slight variations in hp (+/- 2 hp).

Concerning the MAF & filter, there's hundreds of documented testimonials from enthusiast who are wise enough not to over oil or oil the inside as K&N suggests (asinine insinuation) to show that the oil has fouled their MAF sensors and coated the throttle body with enough oil to accumulate dirt / grime within a short period of time. As you mentioned the stock airbox is designed to be a noise reducer but it is also inherently designed to reduce contaminants by drawing in fresh air down through the snorkel pass the resonator and up into the sealed airbox. This is why I believe if you are shooting for performance, don't skimp on the filter or put more weight on flow versus filtration. Who knows.. You might run 200k miles on an cheap high flow aftermarket filter with no problems but to keep the engine running smoothly & efficiently, I would periodically check the throttle body & MAF. It's not the type of deal where you set it & forget it, even with the stock intake I would check it every other filter change. I agree that even under less than optimum conditions.. it'll still run without issues. The J's are very reliable engines, but be aware that some members have seen timing being pulled on 93 octane & evidence of knock on relatively new engines, so it's not bullet proof.. but no, a dirty MAF & an aftermarket filter will not make the engine implode into a black hole.

I'd also like to add that judging the quality & performance of a product by the price is asinine. A $2k catback exhaust is no better than a $200 job by my local muffler shop in terms of performance, same goes for an intake. Sure.. Takeda did R&D on this intake in terms of fitment & design but I bet they spent 10x that amount on marketing.. and why not.. it's a beautiful intake, sounds great, "dyno proven" lol.. but not everyone is content to spending $300 on an intake because after all it's an aluminum pipe & a filter. That's the way the world is. People look for the better bargain especially in hard times. Would I buy the ebay intake over the takeda in terms of performance.. probably, but then again I'd just buy the fittings & and make my own if I really wanted to get cheap. Would I proudly show it at an auto show.. no. A timex does about as good of a job keeping time as an Omega but I'd still rather have the Omega.

prepreludesh

I'd like to know where you got that information about the EGR only opening under engine load. The EGR, as I've been told, actually does not open after a certain point when you're getting on the throttle. The EGR usually is controlled by pressure, and when the MAP shows more vacuum, the EGR is open and when it is showing less vacuum, the EGR is closed. The engine doesn't open up the EGR for "knock control?" because that's what fuel and timing maps control.

I'm still not sold on your theory of air temperature controlling HP factors to a degree by which you can start seeing that noticable of an effect. I'll do more research on this, but I highly doubt that the intake temperatures are compensated much in the engine computer.

P.S. I love how you were making borderline shadetree mechanic statements earlier and now that I started to remark more, your statements have became more "eloquent."

eazy

iTrader: (8)

Dude, can I peep your GTI?