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Response I got from The Driveshaft Shop after sending the pics and measurements:
Nitin,
The problem with your factory shaft being a 3-piece, is that it is like that for a reason. Be it, angles or length. What exactly are you looking for? What kind of power, etc?
i wonder if they can do a two piece which would could eliminate the need for so many bearings? with only 1 joint in the center for example you could have 1 bearing to worry about. I am speaking with no prior knowledge of power trains or driveshafts. Logically the fewer moving pieces the less chance for failure of them.
Another response I just got after asking if an aluminum one would be more feasible:
Nitin,
An under taking like this would require a sample shaft, plotting of locations in the car and would completely custom. If you are not making additional power, it honestly would not be worth the effort. The car would definitely feel better, but at a cost of a few months time and $1,500 to $2,000.
Another response I just got after asking if an aluminum one would be more feasible:
Nitin,
An under taking like this would require a sample shaft, plotting of locations in the car and would completely custom. If you are not making additional power, it honestly would not be worth the effort. The car would definitely feel better, but at a cost of a few months time and $1,500 to $2,000.
And that should about signal the end of this thread.
Another response I just got after asking if an aluminum one would be more feasible:
Nitin,
An under taking like this would require a sample shaft, plotting of locations in the car and would completely custom. If you are not making additional power, it honestly would not be worth the effort. The car would definitely feel better, but at a cost of a few months time and $1,500 to $2,000.
Interesting....... is there a chance for second opinions lol
Another response I just got after asking if an aluminum one would be more feasible:
Nitin,
An under taking like this would require a sample shaft, plotting of locations in the car and would completely custom. If you are not making additional power, it honestly would not be worth the effort. The car would definitely feel better, but at a cost of a few months time and $1,500 to $2,000.
we want this for long term reliability since the OEM one is made of glass.
This isn't super related, but I'm finishing up an SHAWD 6MTswap into my 14 Accord coupe, and along the way I had to design and have some flange adapters made to adapt the Acura Transfer and Diff flanges to a more common 1350 U joint style flange to make it easier for DSS to make me a custom shaft capable of 1000ftlbs (car is turbo). I chose to use the Sonnax billet flanges made for the Hellcat which are a pretty penny but if you are only looking at making OEM-ish power you could use a much cheaper, smaller flange yoke. I drew up the adapters and 3d printed the prototypes to test fitment and am waiting on the actual adapters made from 7075. With these adapters all you would need to supply DSS with is the flange to flange distance and the location of the carrier bearings for them to make you one. Also a funny pic of the OEM TL shaft cut open when I originally shortened the OEM shaft for testing, cardboard! Cheap NVH absorption! I heard stories of people finding wadded up Japanese newspapers in the older import driveshafts!
Do you have a build posted somewhere? Would love more info on your swap.
What's the weight of the custom shaft?
I have one over on DA, since it's an accord it wasn't really relevant to post here. The biggest thing I was curious about before and during the swap was how much stuff would be bolt on/interchangable and not need custom fab. To my surprise (and delight) almost every single thing has literally bolted right onto my accord chassis. All bolt holes lined up etc. The whole TL rear subframe and rear end bolted right in. TL saddle fuel tank bolted in using crosstour 4WD straps. TLX front subframe (my accord uses macpherson front suspension so coudln't use TL) bolted right in, TL front axles fit perfect, everything was super smooth. Unfortunately due to the power levels of the car I had to do some custom fabrication but only because of those levels. The saddle tank will not clear a 3.5" driveshaft even in a TL, and it's even closer in my car, so that had to come back out and a fuel cell in the trunk will take its place, and the engine mounts were also custom fabbed with 95A poly vs the soft OEM TLX mounts.
The other big thing was the SHAWD ECU (diff control unit). Looking at the CAN data, it would probably be possible to get the TL AWD controller to work using my car's existing sensors pretty easily, but the OEM controller is not adjustable and I need to be able to adjust the torque vectoring, so I made a custom controller using the wheel speed inputs that will let me send 0-100% torque to the R/L rear wheels based on wheel speed/spin, vehicle speed, throttle position, etc.
I'm still waiting on final word from DSS about whether it will be carbon or AL so I'll probably have the weight soon.
I have one over on DA, since it's an accord it wasn't really relevant to post here. The biggest thing I was curious about before and during the swap was how much stuff would be bolt on/interchangable and not need custom fab. To my surprise (and delight) almost every single thing has literally bolted right onto my accord chassis. All bolt holes lined up etc. The whole TL rear subframe and rear end bolted right in. TL saddle fuel tank bolted in using crosstour 4WD straps. TLX front subframe (my accord uses macpherson front suspension so coudln't use TL) bolted right in, TL front axles fit perfect, everything was super smooth. Unfortunately due to the power levels of the car I had to do some custom fabrication but only because of those levels. The saddle tank will not clear a 3.5" driveshaft even in a TL, and it's even closer in my car, so that had to come back out and a fuel cell in the trunk will take its place, and the engine mounts were also custom fabbed with 95A poly vs the soft OEM TLX mounts.
The other big thing was the SHAWD ECU (diff control unit). Looking at the CAN data, it would probably be possible to get the TL AWD controller to work using my car's existing sensors pretty easily, but the OEM controller is not adjustable and I need to be able to adjust the torque vectoring, so I made a custom controller using the wheel speed inputs that will let me send 0-100% torque to the R/L rear wheels based on wheel speed/spin, vehicle speed, throttle position, etc.
I'm still waiting on final word from DSS about whether it will be carbon or AL so I'll probably have the weight soon.
Link to thread please. TY for all the info and very interesting posts. I didn't understand at first, but are you making an AWD accord?!
Link to thread please. TY for all the info and very interesting posts. I didn't understand at first, but are you making an AWD accord?!
That's the plan! I have a habit of doing impractical things especially when people say they aren't possible or will cost too much etc. I own a fabrication shop so the labor is "free" when I'm working on my own cars. This started with making a turbo kit for the accord which ended up at 10psi/530whp and while the sleeper aspect was great, the FWD just killed it until 3rd gear. Once I spent some time at junk yards measuring parts and was fairly sure most of the big things would bolt in for the AWD swap the car came apart.
It can be done, sure. I'm a Ktuner dealer also and they support the 4g TL ECU so tuning is possible. Currently we're back ordered for months making kits for the Accords but when things have calmed down I could certainly tackle a 4g. FYI if you just want forced induction there is already a supercharger kit available for the 4g, Andy Gerzina makes them and has one on his 4g SHAWD 6MT, he's making over 500whp tuned on Ktuner. Only downside is it mounts where your AC compressor is so you lose AC. It's a great kit but I love AC and I love turbos. This was my engine bay before the AWD swap, changing things up a bit for this next iteration (flipping intake manifold, cleaning up wiring/moving fuse box etc).
It can be done, sure. I'm a Ktuner dealer also and they support the 4g TL ECU so tuning is possible. Currently we're back ordered for months making kits for the Accords but when things have calmed down I could certainly tackle a 4g. FYI if you just want forced induction there is already a supercharger kit available for the 4g, Andy Gerzina makes them and has one on his 4g SHAWD 6MT, he's making over 500whp tuned on Ktuner. Only downside is it mounts where your AC compressor is so you lose AC. It's a great kit but I love AC and I love turbos. This was my engine bay before the AWD swap, changing things up a bit for this next iteration (flipping intake manifold, cleaning up wiring/moving fuse box etc).
07-18-2017, 10:06 PM
