dillonkennedy003

Hi all,

This is my first post so I think I should take sometime to explain myself.

I am a college student and currently own an S2000. I have had my S2000 since May 2014 but recently rear-ended someone. What at first glance looked like a minor "tap" ended up costing lots of money . My car was lowered about 1.5" from stock and when a lowered S2000 collides with an Avalon disaster ensues. I was only going about 10mph and looked at my phone in traffic, it was too late by the time I looked up. My formerly beautiful S2000 went straight under the Toyota and damaged my hood, headlight, bumper, and fender. I was in the process of fixing it before I had to leave for college. I now am considering selling the S2000 after I fix it and buying a more practical 4G TL SH-AWD with a 6mt . As with any major purchase I conduct very thorough research, and I also have my first few mods planned out. I plan on doing PCDs, J-pipe, exhaust, intake, coilovers, wheels, tires, etc. I want to turn my future TL into the ultimate daily driver. From what I have seen so far, not many people have really maxed out the potential of the SH-AWD platform and I intend to do that to the best of my abilities.

What I want to know is, what are my options in terms of internal engine upgrades? After looking at a few dyno graphs of J series engines, they typically have a decent torque curve until you hit around 5500rpm, where it unexplainably falls off, are there any after market cams (or OEM cams for that matter) that would solve this issue? I also would like to get a K-tuner and raise the rev limit a couple hundred RPM, but I would like to do this safely. I couldn't find a lot of information about safe rev limits for j37s. I'm assuming upgraded rod studs and maybe stiffer valve springs at the least, new rods and pistons at the most. I understand that I may be pioneering if I decide to go this route, which is okay with me, but I would really like to be on the safe side.

As for handling, I believe that the SH-AWD system has a lot of untapped potential. I would like to put the car on a set of 18x9s with some sticky rubber (255 wide RE-11s), lower the car an inch or two on FA 500 coilovers, and probably replace the more important bushings. I really love driving on backroads and think this would be a killer combo. Does anyone have experience with a similarly equipped TL? I think that with the coilovers, I'll really be able to tune the cars handling to the point where it is extremely neutral no matter how hard I push it, I really want to make that AWD system work.

I fully realize that upgrading the internals of the J37 might be a weird route to go. I honestly am open to forced induction, but I'd rather not. To my knowledge it has only been done once before on a 4G TL which is really a shame. I think that 350hp at the crank is obtainable with the aforementioned engine mods, that is, if they exist. I would like to hear everyone's thoughts!

Thanks for reading

Edward'TLS

The J37 burns engine oil. Better not to mess around with it.

Mod the J35 instead, which is more bullet proof in design.

'99-6SIC6

I have the j37...it's solid. Asking price for the S...?

-greg

dillonkennedy003

I'll probably list it at around $7,000. It has about 175,000 miles on it , but it still runs very well, and the compression is good. Its a MY2003 BTW. The only issue that I've ever had with it is oil consumption. It seems to burn about a quart every 2000 miles, and I'm not 100% sure why. It could just be my driving style, I tend to let her rip regularly.

ExcelerateRep

Products for: 2010 ACURA TL SH-AWD 6Cyl 3.7L - Excelerate's Honda & Acura Store - Japanese Performance Specialist

'99-6SIC6

csmeance

J37 is a very potent motor with the flaw being it's oil consumption. Most folks have noticed it starts 3K miles after an oil change. I'd imagine using a oil with a higher HTHS may help the burning but not much if there is damage to the piston rings/walls. If you have a TL with burning oil and don't want to fork out the money for a new engine, do an oil change every 3K miles!

Back to the power, the J37 can produce a good amount of power with the right mods. You can certainly go with bigger cams, stiffer springs, etc but are limited to an extent. To aggressive of cams won't work due to the inability to slide them into the engine.

With K-Tuner and the upgraded valve items, you should be able to raise the rev limit without an issue. On factory valve train, I've seen some folks drop a valve with only 200 RPM increase and some daily drive with 500 RPM increase. I'd air on the side of caution and not raise it as there isn't much of a benefit.

Now if you really want to have some fun, look into the Rotrex S/C kit that requires a/c delete. Makes 600+ WHP on factory internals. Andy G is the guy behind the madness and he's a genius.

As far as SH-AWD, I've gotta warn you about a few things.

1. It's expensive when it breaks. The prop shaft (center shaft) will start to make a whistling sound is close to $2000 to replace.
2. Lowering + More power is going to mean you will need axles pretty soon. Some of the SH-AWD guys are already needing them and there's a national backorder. I'd suggest upgraded ones through Raxles. 3G TL guys love them since it's $220 vs $650 for an OEM axle.
3. It's ADDICTING, so much so that you'll be burning through fuel and tires. Make sure you get your alignment checked every 30K miles otherwise the fun of SH-AWD is lost. Good tires will be important too, but remember the TL SH-AWD is fairly heavy. With some lighter wheels with sticky rubber, you should be able to get some impressive power numbers. SH-AWD can be a PITA to dyno!

Also be aware that the 6MT is great to drive, but there is a delay check valve in the master cylinder that slows engagement of the clutch! Test drive one and you'll see what I mean, get used to it. 3G Guys could remove it, not on the 4G as it's not there!