andrewcjduong

Just picked up my car 2 days ago. Guess I never noticed the driver side door speaker was blown. I'm really satisfied with the sound quality but apparently these blown speakers are a common issue so I'm debating if I should just replace them with OEM's or install a new set (only driver and passenger side door). Any brand you guys would recommend if I were to replace the front speakers (I'd probably keep the stock tweeters)

Also, since I bought this car like 2 days ago. Do you think warranty or CPO would cover it? The dealership I picked it up from is 5 hours away so I can't be going back there, instead. I plan on dropping by a local Acura dealer to do my propeller shaft and hopefully they can do this too.

JasonK

That's what my other thread is about.

Panasonic ELS speakers are a low quality speaker. They blow easily at high volume.

Look at replacing the speaker with an Infinity Reference Speaker, JL or some other higher quality speaker.

ELS Panasonic is notorious for speakers blowing on TL's of all years from what I've searched.

andrewcjduong

Really? Damn. I find them amazing in sound quality. Compared to some crappy bose ones that have came stock in other cars and my TSX speakers.

JasonK

Ya I have two of mine gone to shit I bought the car used as well. The front right passenger and left side passenger driver side are both blown. Coils on one making it rattle and static with vocals on the other.

The speaker to replace is about 20-30$ with a mark up of 40% atleast at the acura stealerships.

The stock system is nice but I would look into getting speakers that can handle high volumes especially if your an audiophile and like cranking a sound system.

JasonK

And if your TL is a 09 like I think I saw in your thread. Your speaker won't be under warranty anymore.

andrewcjduong

Damnnnn. Bought the damn car straight from Acura dealer this week. Weaksauce. I'll be looking into Infinity 6032cf's. Hopefully I can find some brackets and adapters so I don't have to ghetto rig it.

JasonK

Yeah I have a friend who has a shop here in Toronto. They do high end audio system I think he charges 70$ for shop rate. I'm taking my car to him tomorrow to see what he can do about the stock speakers and maybe switching out the sub.

Well see I'll keep my other thread updated.

gibbyisgibby

I have those speakers and like them alot.

As for the OEM speakers, they have a revision of those speakers (REV B or something) that they will install in your car, they won't blow as easily as the first set.

JasonK

I just bought Kenwood 8" 1800 XR eXcelon their the same quality as a Focal speaker in the same class for 150$ for both front driver and passenger side... had my buddies shop put in sound proofing and they sound amazing over the stock speakers...

Now I'm looking to replace both passenger back speakers with Focal 4" tweeters and get a 10" focal sub.

jim_c

Hi Jason.
What is the name of your friend's shop?
I am in Oakville.
I already had my passenger door front speaker changed under warranty but I am off warranty now. It took the tech about 10 minutes to do the job at Erin Mills Acura, but he did not do anything extra, just replaced stock base speaker with same item.
They sound OK for now.

tapht

me too I have this issue and am in Oakville as well. I am very interested to hear what you guys do and will likely follow suit...

echodigital

I was I'm the same boat. i.e. I also drove 3 hours to find the car I liked. They should fix it for you. I would go with OEM first so it doesn't cost you any money.

sockpuppet

This thread has me thinking...I wonder if I've got a blown speaker also? What are the symptoms? I've been experiencing really bad "buzzing" on anything with more bass/higher volumes. I've assumed that I have something loose in my glovebox or other storage, or worse yet, something has come out of alignment. Was waiting for it to warm up to look into the problem, but it seems to be getting a bit worse. Perhaps it's the speaker.

echodigital

I am no expert, but if you have ELS sound system, maybe you can put in the sample DVD audio disc and hopefully you can listen for it.

andrewcjduong

I ended up calling the dealership and they told me to have it done at my local dealership and have it billed to theirs so I didn't pay anything... although now the door speaker that was replaced is rattling and it's driving me nuts. Going to have all the doors dynamatted

sockpuppet

Since my last post, I've determined that the sound issues I've been having are, indeed, a blown passenger door speaker. I've read through this thread, and a number of others, where members have replaced/upgraded their stock speakers.

That said, I stopped by the local car audio shop this evening to investigate options, keeping in mind that I know very little about car audio components. They showed me some coaxial and component systems, and seemed to go back and forth on what I would need to do. What they made clear was that notwithstanding the factory speakers are 2 ohm, that aftermarket speakers for car audio all run 4 ohm. Eventually, they seemed to settle on saying that I could put in the 4 ohm speakers that they carry, replacing both the door speaker and the tweeter on both sides. But, according to them, it's hard to justify doing that, when really, I'd have to replace all, or almost all of the speakers to account for the different impedance. And if I were to do that, I'd want to replace the factory amp as well.

Sounded like the standard up-sell...except their final pitch was that I was really better off simply replacing the speaker with OEM, notwithstanding Acura would charge too much for it (in fact, he suggested getting the part number, and then searching to see if I could secure it for cheaper myself.

So, I'm curious to hear from someone who knows more about car audio than I do. I'm not an audiophile, and didn't really feel the factory setup was lacking. Perhaps if I had something better to compare to, I'd notice the difference. What I really want is a replacement speaker that's a better build quality than OEM, as it's clear from the various threads out there that these things simply don't last.

willmosley

You can buy good or great quality aftermarket speakers that work with both resistances. I think they are trying to upsell you bigtime.

jbond2099

iTrader: (1)

If you use a 4 ohm speaker you will lose volume, even if its more efficient. If u can find a 2ohm set of components use those its the best way to go with the least amount of work. Infinity ,jbl, and i believe focal makes some

liquidneon

What is the warranty on these?
I think I have a blown passenger door speaker, and the subwoofer cover rattles.

I did purchase the extended comprehensive (bumper to bumper) warranty (7 year/160K)... is this something that i can likely get replaced under warranty?

Lioneltl

so the passenger door and the driver front door speakers are blown. Just looking for a quick fix until i can get a new amp.

Every thread i read said to switch them to Infinity Reference 6032cf 6.5-Inch

Was wondering if anyone has change them? and if you have was the install fairly easy?

Dakydd

^^^ same ?....

liquidneon

Dealer replaced my passenger side speaker under warranty. Picked it up on Friday.

sockpuppet

I've been eyeing the Infinity 6030cs, but I'm seeing a lot of love here for the infinity 6032. The only real difference seems to be that the 6032 is a coaxial set, while the 6030's are component. As I'm not an audio guy, can someone explain why the 6032 seems to be such a good replacement unit? I'd have thought the 6030, being pretty much a direct replacement for the stock, would be a better fit.

sockpuppet

So not having heard any comments back in answer to my question about the 6030's, I went to my local car audio shop last night to ask them. They shot me down.

Again, I know very little about car audio, and certainly don’t consider myself an audiophile. I know what I like; that’s about it. The last time I went to these guys, they said to either replace everything, or simply get a new OEM replacement speaker and plunk that in.

With respect to the 6030’s,they said that although they are 2 ohm, once both the tweeter and the mid are hooked into the crossover, then the amp sees 4 ohms, which may or may not be a problem. Certainly volume would be affected but he couldn’t comment on whether the extra power draw would affect the system negatively.

When I asked if the 6030 mid could be used as simply a “plug-and-play”, without swapping out the tweeter or using the crossover, he suggested that failure to incorporate the included crossover would ultimately destroy the speaker.

The upshot of it all was that there was no point in looking at a component replacement, as even the 2ohm replacements will be closer to 4 ohm once the tweeter and crossover are considered. In the absence of a mid that was 1 ohm, it brings me back to either a full system swap or simply going back to a replacement OEM (which, surprisingly, is what they suggest).

Is this guy wrong?

Either way, I have to do something soon; the sound in my car is just awful now.

bpguns

I am electrical engineer, but not an audio expert so take everything I am about to say with a grain of salt. As long as the stock midrange and the replacement midrange have reasonably similar frequency response then you shouldn't destroy the speaker. In fact, I'd be willing to wager that the aftermarket speaker is dramatically more robust than the cheap paper cone stock speakers. The stock amplifier is already sending a processed signal to the midrange so there should be no need for a crossover as far as I can tell. The tweeter is another story since the stock tweeter might have a capacitor on it acting as a high-pass filter. Dropping in an aftermarket tweeter with no capacitor or crossover could destroy the tweeter. But just replacing the stock 6.5" speakers with a set of aftermarket midrange drivers shouldn't require any crossover or special treatment. Hopefully one of the audio gurus will chime in here if I'm wrong. If the impedance of the driver is the same as stock, and the general specs of the driver are similar to stock, then it should not be an issue.

Grateful Laz

I would love to hear an answer to this as I plan replacing the front door speakers with the Kappa component but just using the woofer part.

As far as Sockpuppet's next question

Quote:

With respect to the 6030’s,they said that although they are 2 ohm, once both the tweeter and the mid are hooked into the crossover, then the amp sees 4 ohms, which may or may not be a problem. Certainly volume would be affected but he couldn’t comment on whether the extra power draw would affect the system negatively.

wouldn't all this be handled by the crossover currently in the car as the tweeters are already seperated and not wired parallel or anything like that so they would all stay at 2 ohm. I did read in another thread someone said the oem tweeters are 6 ohm. I would love to see specs for the current setup.

Also how deep is the speaker well in the door as the mounting depth for the Kappa's is 2 1/2"?

Grateful Laz

I found a speaker diagram and part numbers but no specs Acura online store : 2013 tl radio antenna - speaker parts

From the looks it might need a shallow mount speaker in the door maybe that is why people use the 6032 shallow mount model

Grateful Laz

some interesting info from 2012 Acura TL Car Stereo Wiring Instructions



2012 Acura TL Car Stereo Wiring Instructions
Car Radio Battery Constant 12V+ Wire: White
Car Radio Accessory Switched 12V+ Wire: N/A
Car Radio Ground Wire: Black
Car Radio Illumination Wire: Gray
Car Radio Dimmer Wire: Red
Car Radio Antenna Trigger Wire: N/A
Car Radio Amp Trigger Wire: White
Car Stereo Amplifier Location: Behind the trim on the passenger side of the trunk.
Car Audio Front Tweeter Size: 1″ Tweeters
Car Audio Front Tweeter Depth: 1″
Car Audio Front Tweeter Location: N/A
Front Center Speaker Size: 3″ Speakers
Front Center Speaker Depth: 2″
Front Center Speaker Location: N/A
Left Front Speaker Positive Wire (+): N/A
Left Front Speaker Negative Wire (-): N/A
Right Front Speaker Positive Wire (+): N/A
Right Front Speaker Negative Wire (-): N/A
Car Audio Front Speakers Size: 6 1/2″ Speakers
Car Audio Front Speakers Depth: 3″
Car Audio Front Speakers Location: N/A
Left Rear Speaker Positive Wire (+): N/A
Left Rear Speaker Negative Wire (-): N/A
Right Rear Speaker Positive Wire (+): N/A
Right Rear Speaker Negative Wire (-): N/A
Car Audio Rear Speakers Size: 6 1/2″ Speakers
Car Audio Rear Speakers Depth: 3″
Car Audio Rear Speakers Location: N/A
Second Rear Speakers Size: 3″ Speakers
Second Rear Speakers Depth: 2″
Second Rear Speakers Location: N/A
Car Subwoofer Speaker Positive Wire (+): N/A
Car Subwoofer Speaker Negative Wire (-): N/A
Car Subwoofer Speaker Size: 8″ Subwoofer
Car Subwoofer Speaker Depth: 3 1/2″
Car Subwoofer Speaker Location: N/A
The 2012 Acura TL radio wire color information above is updated as it is submitted by the Modified Life community.

sockpuppet

According to the audio guy at my local shop (unless I misunderstood) the lines for the tweeters and the mids don't go through a crossover, but rather go straight back to the factory amp.

Ultimately, I just bit the bullet and bought a new OEM replacement, which is getting installed on Friday. It seemed cheaper than I expected, as they quoted me $41CAN for the speaker, though once they realized it was a tech, that went up to $57CAN. Probably the same speaker, but not worth the headache to argue.

Grateful Laz

I had the 6030 (component) in my other car (camry) and they sounded good but I also replaced the tweeter. I never used the crossover just plug and played. Since I am not replacing the tweeter (do not want to deal with apillars and air bags). I am just going to go with the 2way to make sure I do not miss any range. Better safe than sorry(although I am flip flopping as I reread this). They are only $45 plus another $15 in parts for the wire harness and adapter rings.

Here is a another door panel removal sheet since the pictures in the DIY on this site do not show up for me.
http://ww2.justanswer.com/uploads/di...or_panel_1.png

sockpuppet

So I got my replacement speakers swapped into the car; I had forgotten how good that system sounds when everything is working as it should. The blown speaker sounded so bad, I expected the cone to be ripped, but the speaker they pulled out looks pristine. Sure didn't sound good, though.

liquidneon

yep, huge difference when everything working as it should. I had the dealer insulate the shit out of my subwoofer cover, and trunk and replace the passenger side speaker (all under warranty). I can blast away again.