WesleyCrocket

This is a bit in hindsight but I wanted to know the community's opinion on this:

I have had my 2010 TL SH-AWD 6MT since the beginning of October. I knew the transmission had some niggles about it when I bought it but it was CPO so I knew Acura would take care of anything that happened.

The transmission kept popping out of first and third so I knew something was amiss.

McGrath Acura of Chicago agreed to overhaul the transmission under warranty and take care of a master cylinder squeak that was a TSB from like 2010.

While they had the transmission out is obviously the right time to change the clutch because there would be no extra labor to me. I told myself before the transmission came off that if the clutch had less than 60% life left that I would replace it and if it had more than 60% left than I would leave it in.

Of course the master tech came back and said that it had exactly 60% life left - my threshold. I found a (supposedly) OEM replacement from acurapartsnow.com for ~$1800 all in when the dealership quoted me $2800 for the parts. Just a lot of $$ to scrape up. I could have done the $1800 if there was only like 20% clutch life left but it would have been a light christmas.

I elected to not replace based on this logic: 60k miles on a clutch and it still has 60% life left is pretty damn good IMO. Almost suspiciously good. I know I am easier on the clutch than the average driver and I can make it last. If I planned on selling it before 100k miles then theoretically I would not be on the hook for replacing the clutch.

What would you guys have done if you were me?

Jakes_tl

I wouldn't replace the clutch. If you don't beat on your car like crazy you can easily get 150K out of a clutch

ggesq

iTrader: (1)

Methinks you made the right choice. 60% is a lot.

RedRyder

iTrader: (1)

It makes sense to replace the clutch while the trans is out, but at 60k miles it has plenty of life left if you treat it well. There are advantages/disadvantages either way, and what's done is done so I'd just be at peace with your decision.

WesleyCrocket

Thanks man, that's pretty much along the lines of what I was thinking. Still feels perfect and even better now with 2 new gear sets plus new master and slave cylinders.

JM2010 SH-AWD

You did the right thing.

csmeance

right choice, IMO you can start looking for deals on a flywheel and clutch over the next year or two and find everything for much less and get it done on your time. Same with the timing belt service parts.

TacoBello

You'll likely retire that car before you need to replace the clutch... Happy motoring!!

SkN012

It all depends on how long you were intending to keep the car a long time and the way you drive. Personally I love my TL and I'm in for the long haul. This being said I would of done the clutch replacement just to know that I'll be good to go till I retired my baby from the road.

SkN012

jim_c

If the clutch is performing as it should then you did the right thing.
A couple points to consider:
I am skeptical about the tech saying 60% life left. On what is this based?
What did he measure and what references did he use the analyze his data? In my opinion there is no reliable way for anyone to make this sort of estimation. Clutch parts can fail at any time due to mechanical fatigue. I have put 300,000 km on one clutch (Mazda) and 225,000 km on another (Integra) with no signs of any imminent issues. But I have also seen clutches break at relatively low mileage (broken diaphragm fingers) and it was just bad luck on the owner's part. (Luckily not mine.)
$1800 for a clutch is insane? Is that the current rate? How can they justify such a high price? A clutch is not that complicated. (You can buy a computer for a lot less!)
Here's how to "test" your clutch*: With the trans is neutral you should not hear much noise when you operate the clutch (pedal). (engage and disengage the clutch) You may hear the throwout bearing when you disengage the clutch. (This is with the car stopped in neutral.) You may hear the transmission shafts turning when you engage the clutch. But the noises should be muted and smooth and relatively quiet.
With the clutch disengaged (pedal down) you should be able to switch gears easily. You should be able to go in or out of any gear including reverse with no resistance or weirdness at the shifter.
When you go in and out of reverse with the car stopped, you should not have any noises or grinding of gears.
There should be some free play at the top of the pedal and at the bottom of the pedal stroke. That is there should be an engagement and disengagement of the clutch in the middle of the travel. There should be no slipping of the clutch under hard acceleration. Slipping causes bad smells for burning friction material and allows the engine to rev higher than it should.
It is tricky to diagnose clutch issues versus transmission issues.
Get an opinion from a qualified tech who works on clutches every day.
Do not believe opinions from amateurs unless they can fully support their opinions by explaining how the clutch and transmission work.


* This is generic advice. There may be specific details about certain models that deviate slightly from the above.

jim_c

I should have included that obviously there should be no shuddering or chattering when you engage the clutch and drive off from a standstill.
If the clutch operates properly as described to "release" the transmission from the engine, but you have problems when shifting in normal driving, then the problem (malfunction) is very likely in the transmission itself.

csmeance

FYI, our clutches are self adjusting so you'll never know how much life is left via driving until it's gone