mylove4cars

Interesting to see the comparison oil sample tests, let us know. (I'm an overly believer of lubricants for everything in motion creating the slightest (slightly friction)

fsttyms1

After having built my 3.7 to specs (with oem parts) i was simply amazed on how tight honda wanted the tolerances and how tight the tolerances were from the factory !

fsttyms1

Because honda (much like most other manufacturers) have to meet CAFE standards. Lowering the viscosity to achieve a very small % in MPG across the line adds up.

fsttyms1

I recommend you get your FREE test kit from Blackstone labs. Start doing your own testing and see what you get for results (i pay extra for the TBN test and suggest everyone who sends samples in does too). Over a few test you will get the feeling of how your motor is doing on the oil and how much further you can go on said oil. I have gone over 22k miles before on syn and 10k on regular Dino oil.
It can be hard, But Sometimes old ways need to change

HeartTLs

iTrader: (5)

Does your 3.7 burn oil? I have no doubt doing synthetic oil changes every 5k is throwing money away, but I've also heard that the problem isn't the oil but the filter. If you do extended oil changes you might need to replace the filter sooner than the oil.

mylove4cars

In my case, maybe psychological; hence for my own peace of mind how much money can I waste. I believe cars are expensive and oil is cheap. The reasoning behind this philosophy, 50 years I perform my oil changes on many cars and never had a problem. Of course everyone has there own idea about this. I always question myself, in case car manufacturer's would prescribe the perfect formula, engines would last a million miles.....

fsttyms1

Nope. Doesnt burn oil, those that have the problem id be curious to see if adding a oil catch can or better pcv/valve or a way to vent crankcase pressure better. I had a oil consumption issue on the j32 which lead to a rear main leak caused by the pcv valve. Once replaced it went back to normal and not leaking.
As for the filter, i change it around half way or 7500 miles. Simply unscrew old, fill new with oil spin on and top off any that needs to be. In 15k intervals including changing filter i usually have to add 1/2 quart

fsttyms1

And to play devils advocate, in all those years of changing oil do you know for a fact going longer would lead to the motor not lasting as long??

My first motor had over 220k on it when i pulled it out for the 6 speed/type-s swap, the type-s motor had over 350k on it when i pulled it out for the 3.7 build. Both motors had nothing wrong with them, no noise, no oil consumption, no loss of power. both motors ran the 12-15k change intervals. Will it work for everyone?? No, but the majority yes. That is why i recommend having the oil tested. It will give you peace of mind as to how your motor is doing.

mylove4cars

Depending where you live already makes a difference; where I live in Summer we have frequently between 112 and 120 degrees Fahrenheit in the shade

Here is why
“You can never change your engine oil too frequently. The more you do it, the longer the engine will last. The whole debate about exactly when you change your oil is somewhat of a grey area. Manufacturers tell you every 10,000 miles or so. Your mate with a classic car tells you every 3,000 miles. Ole' Bob with the bad breath who drives a truck tells you he's never once changed the oil in his ve-hickle. Fact is, large quantities of water are produced by the normal combustion process and, depending on engine wear, and some of it gets into the crank case. If you have a good crank case breathing system it gets removed from there PDFQ, but even so, in cold weather a lot of condensation will take place. This is bad enough in itself, since water is not noted for its lubrication qualities in an engine, but even worse, that water dissolves any nitrates formed during the combustion process. If my memory of chemistry serves me right, that leaves you with a mixture of Nitric (HNO3) and Nitrous (HNO2) acid circulating round your engine! So not only do you suffer a high rate of wear at start-up and when the engine is cold, you suffer a high rate of subsequent corrosion during normal running or even when stationary.
The point I'm trying to make is that the optimum time for changing oil ought to be related to a number of factors, of which distance travelled is probably one of the least important in most cases. Here is my selection in rough order of importance:

1.Number of cold starts (more condensation in a cold engine)

2.Ambient temperature (how long before warm enough to stop serious condensation)

3.Effectiveness of crank case scavenging (more of that anon)

4.State of wear of the engine (piston blow-by multiplies the problem)

5.Accuracy of carburation during warm-up period (extra gook produced)

6.Distance travelled (well, lets get that one out of the way)

If you were clever (or anal) enough, you could probably come up with a really clever formula incorporating all those factors. However, I would give 1, 2, and 3 equal top weighting. Items 1 to 3 have to be taken together since a given number of "cold" starts in the Dakar in summer is not the same as an equal number conducted in Fargo in January. The effect in either case will be modified by how much gas gets past the pistons. What we are really after is the severity and duration of the initial condensation period. All other things being equal that will give you how much condensate will be produced and I would suggest that more than anything else determines when the oil should be dumped.”

fsttyms1

I dont by it or think it makes a difference ( Sure, it takes some of the life out of the oil, but not in a manner which some would like to think ), especially in modern engines that can keep the engine in the desired operating temp all day every day. We see 100+ deg days in the summer, My car idles ALL DAY, and i bring it to auto-x/lapping days frequently. Very severe driving conditions. We also see -35 deg days in the winter. Cold starts are worse than anything.

And you know this how? Has your motor suffered severe wear from not changing it soon enough? or are you simply going by you havent had any problems because you change it more frequently? If its the later thats not proof.


If the state of the engine is in good shape (especially these motors) i wouldnt be worrying about much of this. Especially after seeing the oil sample results over the past 600k miles with my TL motors and the way i drive. Not much is getting past the rings. This may have been true with older engines where tolerances and materials werent nearly as good, but not so much with well designed modern engines.
In the end, you should be getting your oil sample tested to know WHEN is a good time to get rid of it and not feel or guess.

mylove4cars

1. Cold" starts in the Dakar in summer is not the same as an equal number conducted in Fargo in January.

2. Common sense and mathematics (theory of probability)

3. Your point well taken, oil sample testing might help a lot of drivers. Times have indeed changed, hence I like both the old way and the new way, sometimes just not all the way.

fsttyms1

Im not here to argue, just to point out what is working for me and what i believe from my own results and from engine tear downs

Get a sample kit and try it out

mylove4cars

Will check-it out

WolfieRules

Mobil 1 Extended Performance, it's the 'real' Mobil 1.

I've used Mobil 1 exclusively for past 25 years, never had engine issues, even had original turbo still spinning just fine after 225K miles, works great for me.

.TODD

Ive always used royal purple I switched to try Pennzoil natural gas oil its a golden color I really like it

Aerok1

Mobil 1 EP with K&N filter for my 4G

loconess

regular Honda/Acura oil, KEEPING regular maintenance is more important

Aerok1

MOBIL 1 5w-20 EP

hyperpm

I have a new TL SHAWD. When it's time to change oil, do I start with conventional or go synthetic right away?

mylove4cars

Synthetic right away. I do Mobil 1 EP - 5W - 20 and Filter Mobil 1 Model M1110 - 4500 - 5000 miles regardless the MID.

freeflowing

second that

xtreme2014

I thought on the oil cap said " 0W-20"?? By the way I got 2012 TL

mylove4cars

In case you live in cold weather 0W-20 - Actually both are good.