TL SH-AWD Jack Points
#1
Jack safe points
Hey everyone, I'm new here. Nice place you guys have going.
Anyway, I'll introduce myself in a different post. My question: I found a lot of information/topics/diagrams on the previous model jack points, but I can't seem to find any for the 4th gen TL. I have a 2009 TL. Anyone have any resource for this? Greatly appreciate it.
Thanks,
Mayer
Anyway, I'll introduce myself in a different post. My question: I found a lot of information/topics/diagrams on the previous model jack points, but I can't seem to find any for the 4th gen TL. I have a 2009 TL. Anyone have any resource for this? Greatly appreciate it.
Thanks,
Mayer
#2
You can check out this thread for details. https://acurazine.com/forums/showpos...3&postcount=24
There are six jacking points, one behind each front wheel on the side, one in front of each rear wheel on the side and one front center and one rear center.
There are six jacking points, one behind each front wheel on the side, one in front of each rear wheel on the side and one front center and one rear center.
#3
TL SH-AWD Jack Points
Does anyone here have experience lifting a TL SH-AWD onto 4 jack stands? I haven't looked under my car yet, but plan to this evening.
Is there a front center lift point? I know that 7th gen Honda Accords have one below the engine compartment.
Is there a rear center lift point? I've read conflicting things about whether or not it is safe to lift the rear of a AWD/RWD vehicle by the rear differential. Those that do suggest using a piece of wood to avoid puncturing/damaging the casing.
I've also read on Civic forums and the TL forum here that you can place the jack at the rear tow hook. Is the 4th gen TL SH-AWD too heavy for this?
Finally, I've read varying things on whether it is safe to use a floor jack on a car with unibody construction as it can damage the welds. Is there any validity to this?
Is there a front center lift point? I know that 7th gen Honda Accords have one below the engine compartment.
Is there a rear center lift point? I've read conflicting things about whether or not it is safe to lift the rear of a AWD/RWD vehicle by the rear differential. Those that do suggest using a piece of wood to avoid puncturing/damaging the casing.
I've also read on Civic forums and the TL forum here that you can place the jack at the rear tow hook. Is the 4th gen TL SH-AWD too heavy for this?
Finally, I've read varying things on whether it is safe to use a floor jack on a car with unibody construction as it can damage the welds. Is there any validity to this?
#4
I've had no issues using a hydraulic floor jack when switching out summer/winter tires. I typically use the front & rear center points when jacking as shown in the pic below. I only have two jack stands rated at 4 tons, so I've not had the whole car supported with only jack stands. There's more info in this thread https://acurazine.com/forums/showthr...jacking+points
Here's the details from the shop manual as well.
Here's the details from the shop manual as well.
#6
I've had no issues using a hydraulic floor jack when switching out summer/winter tires. I typically use the front & rear center points when jacking as shown in the pic below. I only have two jack stands rated at 4 tons, so I've not had the whole car supported with only jack stands. There's more info in this thread https://acurazine.com/forums/showthr...jacking+points
Here's the details from the shop manual as well.
Here's the details from the shop manual as well.
If jacking the car on an outside weld would damage your car, I would buy a different car.
#7
The Sicilian
Just a suggestion, when I jack up any of my cars I put a block of wood (2x4) between the floor jack pad and the car so as not to have metal to metal. Sometimes floor jack pads are not flat but cupped like mine and some do not have a protective rubber pad like mine either.
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#8
You guys are welcome for the manual pic.
Using a block of wood can definitely help on the rear jack point as it's just a metal ring/loop.
You could also go all out and pick up one of these, fairly cheap at about $10 too.
http://www.harborfreight.com/floor-j...pad-96306.html
Using a block of wood can definitely help on the rear jack point as it's just a metal ring/loop.
You could also go all out and pick up one of these, fairly cheap at about $10 too.
http://www.harborfreight.com/floor-j...pad-96306.html
#9
The Sicilian
You guys are welcome for the manual pic.
Using a block of wood can definitely help on the rear jack point as it's just a metal ring/loop.
You could also go all out and pick up one of these, fairly cheap at about $10 too.
http://www.harborfreight.com/floor-j...pad-96306.html
Using a block of wood can definitely help on the rear jack point as it's just a metal ring/loop.
You could also go all out and pick up one of these, fairly cheap at about $10 too.
http://www.harborfreight.com/floor-j...pad-96306.html
#10
I've had no issues using a hydraulic floor jack when switching out summer/winter tires. I typically use the front & rear center points when jacking as shown in the pic below. I only have two jack stands rated at 4 tons, so I've not had the whole car supported with only jack stands. There's more info in this thread https://acurazine.com/forums/showthr...jacking+points
Here's the details from the shop manual as well.
Here's the details from the shop manual as well.
#11
^ It's probably about foot behind the bottom of the radiator, right on the centerline of the car. (looking from the side it'd be about halfway between the grill and front tires) There's a small cut out in the plastic cover and you can see the metal support point protruding down slightly. It's also got a small hole in the center of it.
#13
TL Jack Stand Mounting Points
Hello everyone, first post in this forum and I must admit, tons of great info here!
I know that this is a topic that has been discussed before on this forum. However, I have a particular question that I can't seem to have resolved, even though I did a few searches.
I did an oil change on my TL (it's a 2012 SH-AWD) myself for the first time last week. I figured I'd be okay if I jacked it up just from the front, which turned out to work out well for the oil change. I know where the jack stand mounting points are for the front since it's shown pretty clearly in the owner's manual:
The rear mounting points are in a similar position, but in front of the tires. I used a 2.5 ton Big Red jack (from Pep Boys). I know that 2.5 tons is cutting it close since the TL weighs around 2.4 However, once I had the car up to the height I needed for the jack stand, I could not fit the stand in place if I was using the floor jack, there simply wasn't enough room. I have a pair of 3 ton steel Pittsburgh Automotive jack stands that I got at Harbor Freight. Outside of the reinforced notch in the frame that's shown in the manual, there's only another stretch of the frame that's open and then the rest is covered by the side skirt. I obviously don't want to bend or damage the beautiful side skirt I have But there simply wasn't enough room if I used the floor jack. . .
I ended up using the scissor jack to get the car up, which left me just enough room on both sides of the front to fit my jack stands. I even felt more comfortable getting the car up as high as I needed to using the scissor jack since the floor jack seemed to be harder to push up on for the same height.
Of course, using the scissor jack is not a good idea if I continue jacking the car up in the future. But what do I do about getting more room without damaging my side skirt? There has to be a way to get the car up using both a legit jack and jack stands.
There seems to be a lot of great info here. What have you guys done out there to be able to get the car up safely and no damage?
I know that this is a topic that has been discussed before on this forum. However, I have a particular question that I can't seem to have resolved, even though I did a few searches.
I did an oil change on my TL (it's a 2012 SH-AWD) myself for the first time last week. I figured I'd be okay if I jacked it up just from the front, which turned out to work out well for the oil change. I know where the jack stand mounting points are for the front since it's shown pretty clearly in the owner's manual:
The rear mounting points are in a similar position, but in front of the tires. I used a 2.5 ton Big Red jack (from Pep Boys). I know that 2.5 tons is cutting it close since the TL weighs around 2.4 However, once I had the car up to the height I needed for the jack stand, I could not fit the stand in place if I was using the floor jack, there simply wasn't enough room. I have a pair of 3 ton steel Pittsburgh Automotive jack stands that I got at Harbor Freight. Outside of the reinforced notch in the frame that's shown in the manual, there's only another stretch of the frame that's open and then the rest is covered by the side skirt. I obviously don't want to bend or damage the beautiful side skirt I have But there simply wasn't enough room if I used the floor jack. . .
I ended up using the scissor jack to get the car up, which left me just enough room on both sides of the front to fit my jack stands. I even felt more comfortable getting the car up as high as I needed to using the scissor jack since the floor jack seemed to be harder to push up on for the same height.
Of course, using the scissor jack is not a good idea if I continue jacking the car up in the future. But what do I do about getting more room without damaging my side skirt? There has to be a way to get the car up using both a legit jack and jack stands.
There seems to be a lot of great info here. What have you guys done out there to be able to get the car up safely and no damage?
#14
Sorry I can't help much because I bought a set of these ramps and they work perfect for oil changes. I know what you mean about struggling to find jack points though. Keep in mind that even though the jack is rated for 2.5 tons and the cars total weight might be 2.4 tons you're never going to get close to the total cars weight when jacking one end of the car up so your jack is perfectly safe.
#15
Moderator
iTrader: (1)
<p>you can build a stand with some extra wood lying around for the jack. make the stand wide and long enough to place the entire jack on. </p><p> </p><p>or you can be unsafe and stack wood on top of the jack. if going this route, make sure everything is stable before jacking up. </p><p> </p><p>it's your jack that isnt lifting it high enough, if the options I gave above does not suit you, you can always buy a new jack that lifts higher or buy shorter stands </p>
Last edited by justnspace; 09-21-2015 at 02:50 PM.
#17
#18
The factory repair manual shows the location of front and rear central jacking points for the car. Using those will allow the jack stands to be placed at the proper body locations.
#19
Sorry I can't help much because I bought a set of these ramps and they work perfect for oil changes. I know what you mean about struggling to find jack points though. Keep in mind that even though the jack is rated for 2.5 tons and the cars total weight might be 2.4 tons you're never going to get close to the total cars weight when jacking one end of the car up so your jack is perfectly safe.
fsures - Not to pick on you, but what do you mean by the "proper body locations"? That's exactly what I'm hoping to find out here
#20
Drifting
iTrader: (1)
Aside from the jacking points along the side (pictured above), there are also ones in the middle front and rear. I use those to get the wheels off the ground and then don't have to deal with a jack that's near where I want to place my jack stands. The one in the front is a silver piece with a hole in the middle (maybe a foot or two back), and the one in the rear is a metal loop (a foot or less from rear).
I can't provide a pic but if you get underneath the car you should see what I'm referring to.
EDIT - I took too long to finish my post and see that fsures beat me to it. Hopefully my descriptions help a bit.
I can't provide a pic but if you get underneath the car you should see what I'm referring to.
EDIT - I took too long to finish my post and see that fsures beat me to it. Hopefully my descriptions help a bit.
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BIGxRED (09-21-2015)
#21
<p>you can build a stand with some extra wood lying around for the jack. make the stand wide and long enough to place the entire jack on. </p><p> </p><p>or you can be unsafe and stack wood on top of the jack. if going this route, make sure everything is stable before jacking up. </p><p> </p><p>it's your jack that isnt lifting it high enough, if the options I gave above does not suit you, you can always buy a new jack that lifts higher or buy shorter stands </p>
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#23
fsures - Sorry, I didn't understand your answer at first. You're saying to jack the car up from the front and rear and then place the jack stands on the sides. That makes sense.
I also have the option to place the stands on the control arms.
If anyone would be able to provide pictures for the front and rear jack mounting points, I'd greatly appreciate it. I have to admit, reading a thread like this scares me stiff. . .
https://acurazine.com/forums/third-g...r-jack-870554/
I also have the option to place the stands on the control arms.
If anyone would be able to provide pictures for the front and rear jack mounting points, I'd greatly appreciate it. I have to admit, reading a thread like this scares me stiff. . .
https://acurazine.com/forums/third-g...r-jack-870554/
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justnspace (09-21-2015)
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ucf_bronco (09-22-2015)
#27
Moderator
iTrader: (1)
<p></p><p> </p><p>there is a front and rear subframe, that you can place stands under. But, I wouldnt place the stands anywhere else but these locations...</p><p>-front and rear subframe<br />- control arms<br />- jacking points as indicated in manual. </p><p> </p><p>those are the only structural sound pieces that are flat enough to put a stand under </p><p> </p>
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BIGxRED (09-21-2015)
#29
Drifting
Just put a block of wood on top of the jack when you're getting the rear off the ground. I've done it for years and never had an issue. Just use some common sense when doing it...like if it looks like the block is tilting, sliding or splitting, you should probably stop. Even better if you can find a couple of hockey pucks. They'll fit perfectly on the jack and won't move at all once there's some pressure on them.
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BIGxRED (09-21-2015)
#31
Just put a block of wood on top of the jack when you're getting the rear off the ground. I've done it for years and never had an issue. Just use some common sense when doing it...like if it looks like the block is tilting, sliding or splitting, you should probably stop. Even better if you can find a couple of hockey pucks. They'll fit perfectly on the jack and won't move at all once there's some pressure on them.
#32
Drifting
I have a concern about doing that though. . . I'm putting something pretty solid into something that has a round bulge on it. I haven't tried it just yet, but isn't that going to be unstable? Or do you find a piece of wood that's long enough to stretch out onto some more flat and solid surfaces near the hook ring?
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BIGxRED (09-22-2015)
#33
Drifting
iTrader: (1)
I actually bought a low profile jack that extends to 24". That way I can get it under the TL while also being able to lift the front / rear two wheels of my wife's Ody off the ground at the same time.
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justnspace (09-22-2015)
#36
Drifting
If you need a spacer use one of these https://autoliftpartsplus.com/produc...cks/#undefined not a 2x4 or hockey puck lol
#37
You can check out this thread for details. https://acurazine.com/forums/showpos...3&postcount=24
There are six jacking points, one behind each front wheel on the side, one in front of each rear wheel on the side and one front center and one rear center.
There are six jacking points, one behind each front wheel on the side, one in front of each rear wheel on the side and one front center and one rear center.
#38
I've had no issues using a hydraulic floor jack when switching out summer/winter tires. I typically use the front & rear center points when jacking as shown in the pic below. I only have two jack stands rated at 4 tons, so I've not had the whole car supported with only jack stands. There's more info in this thread https://acurazine.com/forums/showthr...jacking+points
Here's the details from the shop manual as well.
Here's the details from the shop manual as well.
#39
Does anyone here have experience lifting a TL SH-AWD onto 4 jack stands? I haven't looked under my car yet, but plan to this evening.
Is there a front center lift point? I know that 7th gen Honda Accords have one below the engine compartment.
Is there a rear center lift point? I've read conflicting things about whether or not it is safe to lift the rear of a AWD/RWD vehicle by the rear differential. Those that do suggest using a piece of wood to avoid puncturing/damaging the casing.
I've also read on Civic forums and the TL forum here that you can place the jack at the rear tow hook. Is the 4th gen TL SH-AWD too heavy for this?
Finally, I've read varying things on whether it is safe to use a floor jack on a car with unibody construction as it can damage the welds. Is there any validity to this?
Is there a front center lift point? I know that 7th gen Honda Accords have one below the engine compartment.
Is there a rear center lift point? I've read conflicting things about whether or not it is safe to lift the rear of a AWD/RWD vehicle by the rear differential. Those that do suggest using a piece of wood to avoid puncturing/damaging the casing.
I've also read on Civic forums and the TL forum here that you can place the jack at the rear tow hook. Is the 4th gen TL SH-AWD too heavy for this?
Finally, I've read varying things on whether it is safe to use a floor jack on a car with unibody construction as it can damage the welds. Is there any validity to this?
#40
You can check out this thread for details. https://acurazine.com/forums/showpost.php?p=11871393&postcount=24
There are six jacking points, one behind each front wheel on the side, one in front of each rear wheel on the side and one front center and one rear center.
There are six jacking points, one behind each front wheel on the side, one in front of each rear wheel on the side and one front center and one rear center.
The information he posted is acurate and is similar to my 3G TL, which has one in the front under the radiator which is a rectangular plate about 2x3 inches IIRC, one in the rear which should be the tow hook, and 4 on the sides under the rocker panels, and I have used all of them when doing oil changes.
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mrphilipanderson (01-24-2019)