Questions before buying new 2010 TL
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Questions before buying new 2010 TL
I am about to put a deposit on a TL AWD Tech at a local dealer for $37,600 Out the door.
First Question: Is that a decent deal? I have been led to believe it is, but want to make sure.
Second Question: How is the paint? I own a 2008 Civic Si and the paint is absolutely terrible. It is extremely thin, stains easily, and it is generally a nightmare to deal with. For reference, my Acura Legend's paint is 19 years old and in better shape.
Third question: I have read on here that rattles and clunking noises are a problem. This will drive me bonkers. How are the Acura dealerships dealing with these issues? For reference, my Civic has serious rattles and my local Honda dealership has been great in fixing them. On the flip side, the transmission is problematic and they refuse to replace it until they can reproduce the problems (of course I can reproduce it almost any time, but they can't when they drive it).
Any additional advice or warnings would be most welcome.
Thanks!
First Question: Is that a decent deal? I have been led to believe it is, but want to make sure.
Second Question: How is the paint? I own a 2008 Civic Si and the paint is absolutely terrible. It is extremely thin, stains easily, and it is generally a nightmare to deal with. For reference, my Acura Legend's paint is 19 years old and in better shape.
Third question: I have read on here that rattles and clunking noises are a problem. This will drive me bonkers. How are the Acura dealerships dealing with these issues? For reference, my Civic has serious rattles and my local Honda dealership has been great in fixing them. On the flip side, the transmission is problematic and they refuse to replace it until they can reproduce the problems (of course I can reproduce it almost any time, but they can't when they drive it).
Any additional advice or warnings would be most welcome.
Thanks!
#3
#1 The deal looks good. I'm not sure what your definition of "out the door" is (because everyone seems to have a different definition) but assuming that is the price before taxes and fees I'll multiply that by 1.11 (11% for taxes and fees) so it would be $41,736 (truly out the door, but before financing)
I got my SHAWD for 41k out the door (then add financing), which aws about $600 cheaper than yours before taxes/fees.
#2 I had on 06 civic sedan and the paint was quite poor as well. The TL's paint seems better, but only time will tell. One thing is, paint quality of today is not like the paint quality of the past. My 1996 accord's paint was pretty dam nice when i got rid of it.
#3 I owned the SHAWD for about 4 months, and am now driving the Base model. Neither model had any clunking noises. However, both models have slight rattles (only in cold weather though)
For example:
-sunglass holder occasionally rattled in the SHAWD, but not in the Base
-dash rattle in the base, went away
Overall these seem to be solid cars. My 06 civic had many rattles within the first year of ownership. Rattling door panels (both front doors), rattling glovebox, rattling A-Pillars (both sides)
I think you'll be happy with the build quality of the acura.
One thing though, are you in a rush to get a new car? If i were in your position and i had a car that worked fine, I'd try to hold off and wait for the 2012's. (rumors say they'll be here around april 2011, just rumors) There's no guarantee that they'll be better, but it will probably be a newer car and possibly have new features and an improved drivetrain. That's just me though. I could not wait at the time as I had to give my car away (to my brother)
I got my SHAWD for 41k out the door (then add financing), which aws about $600 cheaper than yours before taxes/fees.
#2 I had on 06 civic sedan and the paint was quite poor as well. The TL's paint seems better, but only time will tell. One thing is, paint quality of today is not like the paint quality of the past. My 1996 accord's paint was pretty dam nice when i got rid of it.
#3 I owned the SHAWD for about 4 months, and am now driving the Base model. Neither model had any clunking noises. However, both models have slight rattles (only in cold weather though)
For example:
-sunglass holder occasionally rattled in the SHAWD, but not in the Base
-dash rattle in the base, went away
Overall these seem to be solid cars. My 06 civic had many rattles within the first year of ownership. Rattling door panels (both front doors), rattling glovebox, rattling A-Pillars (both sides)
I think you'll be happy with the build quality of the acura.
One thing though, are you in a rush to get a new car? If i were in your position and i had a car that worked fine, I'd try to hold off and wait for the 2012's. (rumors say they'll be here around april 2011, just rumors) There's no guarantee that they'll be better, but it will probably be a newer car and possibly have new features and an improved drivetrain. That's just me though. I could not wait at the time as I had to give my car away (to my brother)
#4
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is this a brand new car?? if soo, i seriously doubt that price is out the door, do you not pay ttl fees where you live...
the paint is fine, my last two cars have been acura, before that, i have had a half dozen hondas...
as for service, acura service is completely different then honda...acura is a luxury car, so you get luxury service...just like lexus, infinity, cadilac and such...
the paint is fine, my last two cars have been acura, before that, i have had a half dozen hondas...
as for service, acura service is completely different then honda...acura is a luxury car, so you get luxury service...just like lexus, infinity, cadilac and such...
#5
is this a brand new car?? if soo, i seriously doubt that price is out the door, do you not pay ttl fees where you live...
the paint is fine, my last two cars have been acura, before that, i have had a half dozen hondas...
as for service, acura service is completely different then honda...acura is a luxury car, so you get luxury service...just like lexus, infinity, cadilac and such...
the paint is fine, my last two cars have been acura, before that, i have had a half dozen hondas...
as for service, acura service is completely different then honda...acura is a luxury car, so you get luxury service...just like lexus, infinity, cadilac and such...
The service experience for my 2010 TL Base and my 2006 civic felt almost exactly the same. The acura dealership did nothing over the honda dealership that made it "luxury service"
#6
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is this a brand new car?? if soo, i seriously doubt that price is out the door, do you not pay ttl fees where you live...
the paint is fine, my last two cars have been acura, before that, i have had a half dozen hondas...
as for service, acura service is completely different then honda...acura is a luxury car, so you get luxury service...just like lexus, infinity, cadilac and such...
the paint is fine, my last two cars have been acura, before that, i have had a half dozen hondas...
as for service, acura service is completely different then honda...acura is a luxury car, so you get luxury service...just like lexus, infinity, cadilac and such...
Believe it or not, the price before TTL and processing fee is $36,086. Total price of car after TTL and processing fee is 37,644.84, car only has 24 miles, most of which was moving it to the reserve lot (or so they say). I am using the USAA car buying service, which is already below "invoice", plus dealer incentives. From the responses, I take it this is a worthwhile deal then.
So paint is an OK, rattles aren't much of an issue (?), and overall quality is there? I am just frightened to death that this is going to be another Honda Civic catastrophe, which I am still dealing with 2.5 years later (luckily under bumper-to-bumper warranty).
#7
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I must say that I was expecting the salesmen to be less of the typical car-salesman for this price range. A dealer I have been haggling with (before the current price at another dealership) has pulled all the stops on trying to rip me off. "The processing fee is required by law", and other bull**** was constantly being tossed my way. After putting the deposit down on the car tonight, the same BS dealership e-mailed me saying they could come within $200 of the deal I am going with, after saying they'd lose money by going that low just a few hours earlier. Sad isn't it?
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#8
I feel the need...
Second Question: How is the paint?
Third question: I have read on here that rattles and clunking noises are a problem.
As for your comment on service, I'm not one to be impressed by getting a massage at the dealership or a free cupcake. I just want to get in and out and see my service rep the least amount possible, that's why I don't buy German.
#9
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A massage would be nice though.
#10
Drifting
You have a pretty good deal.
I think you'll be pretty happy with the build quality on this car. I owned a '92 Legend Coupe that was built like a tank and still looked almost like new when I sold it a few months ago.
We own a Honda Accord and have a good Honda dealership. These things vary by location, but you're likely to get a higher level of service at the Acura dealer than is common at Honda (or Nissan or Toyota dealerships). Of course, there are some rotten Acura dealerships, but over time (and 3-4 different dealerships) I've found the service to be quite good. Of course, these are Acuras, and I've had very few problems (knock on my head).
I think you'll be pretty happy with the build quality on this car. I owned a '92 Legend Coupe that was built like a tank and still looked almost like new when I sold it a few months ago.
We own a Honda Accord and have a good Honda dealership. These things vary by location, but you're likely to get a higher level of service at the Acura dealer than is common at Honda (or Nissan or Toyota dealerships). Of course, there are some rotten Acura dealerships, but over time (and 3-4 different dealerships) I've found the service to be quite good. Of course, these are Acuras, and I've had very few problems (knock on my head).
#11
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#1 The deal looks good. I'm not sure what your definition of "out the door" is (because everyone seems to have a different definition) but assuming that is the price before taxes and fees I'll multiply that by 1.11 (11% for taxes and fees) so it would be $41,736 (truly out the door, but before financing)
I got my SHAWD for 41k out the door (then add financing), which aws about $600 cheaper than yours before taxes/fees.
#2 I had on 06 civic sedan and the paint was quite poor as well. The TL's paint seems better, but only time will tell. One thing is, paint quality of today is not like the paint quality of the past. My 1996 accord's paint was pretty dam nice when i got rid of it.
#3 I owned the SHAWD for about 4 months, and am now driving the Base model. Neither model had any clunking noises. However, both models have slight rattles (only in cold weather though)
For example:
-sunglass holder occasionally rattled in the SHAWD, but not in the Base
-dash rattle in the base, went away
Overall these seem to be solid cars. My 06 civic had many rattles within the first year of ownership. Rattling door panels (both front doors), rattling glovebox, rattling A-Pillars (both sides)
I think you'll be happy with the build quality of the acura.
One thing though, are you in a rush to get a new car? If i were in your position and i had a car that worked fine, I'd try to hold off and wait for the 2012's. (rumors say they'll be here around april 2011, just rumors) There's no guarantee that they'll be better, but it will probably be a newer car and possibly have new features and an improved drivetrain. That's just me though. I could not wait at the time as I had to give my car away (to my brother)
I got my SHAWD for 41k out the door (then add financing), which aws about $600 cheaper than yours before taxes/fees.
#2 I had on 06 civic sedan and the paint was quite poor as well. The TL's paint seems better, but only time will tell. One thing is, paint quality of today is not like the paint quality of the past. My 1996 accord's paint was pretty dam nice when i got rid of it.
#3 I owned the SHAWD for about 4 months, and am now driving the Base model. Neither model had any clunking noises. However, both models have slight rattles (only in cold weather though)
For example:
-sunglass holder occasionally rattled in the SHAWD, but not in the Base
-dash rattle in the base, went away
Overall these seem to be solid cars. My 06 civic had many rattles within the first year of ownership. Rattling door panels (both front doors), rattling glovebox, rattling A-Pillars (both sides)
I think you'll be happy with the build quality of the acura.
One thing though, are you in a rush to get a new car? If i were in your position and i had a car that worked fine, I'd try to hold off and wait for the 2012's. (rumors say they'll be here around april 2011, just rumors) There's no guarantee that they'll be better, but it will probably be a newer car and possibly have new features and an improved drivetrain. That's just me though. I could not wait at the time as I had to give my car away (to my brother)
#12
Well some lady hit me when i was driving the SHAWD, and she totaled it.
I got all the money back that i had originally put in and i was about to get another SHAWD when it hit me.
This TL is not exactly what i wanted, I wanted vented seats, a panoramic moonroof, a 6+ speed auto, a car that was faster. I felt that the extra $4k could be saved for the moment, then used for my next car. I looked around to see nothing in my price range (new) that fit the description. But due to my brother needing a car, I had to get another car (I was driving an 06 civic prior to the SHAWD) So what i did was set a limit for myself, under $40k (california taxes as well 9.75%), new.
The only reliable luxury cars that fit the bill were the TL Base (price diff between shawd and base was nearly $4,000), g37 sedan (still $1k more than the base), or the IS250 (dealers didn't want to haggle for the 350).
I told myself that I would simply get the cheaper car and trade in after 3-5 (or so) years and get something I really want. I didn't want to lease just incase I wanted to keep it (not a fan of lease-to-buy). The dealer offered me a price $4,000 cheaper than the SHAWD, and $1,000 cheaper than the smaller (and cramped) g37 sedan. I was sold.
I also did not like the ride quality of the SHAWD as it was pretty stiff and noisy. The 5 speed auto also does not seem to match the SHAWD well. There's a difference in acceleration between the SHAWD and the Base model, in the base model, you can feel "thrust". In the SHAWD, not so much, and the gearing seems a bit strange.
The base model does not handle nearly as well as the SHAWD, but it's much quieter, smoother riding, equally fast (or even faster) straigh tline, slightly roomier (interior/trunk), and the most important, $4,000 cheaper.
I'm going to keep this car until something better comes along, I don't mind taking a small loss assuming what i get next will be "the car" that I end up keeping for upwards of 7 years. Cars on that list (future models) are:
3rd gen lexus IS/GS
2nd gen RDX SHAWD
5th gen TL
5th gen infiniti g
also possibly the 4.5 gen 2012 TL SHAWD Advanced pkg (if it will exist and if it's a nice upgrade)
I got all the money back that i had originally put in and i was about to get another SHAWD when it hit me.
This TL is not exactly what i wanted, I wanted vented seats, a panoramic moonroof, a 6+ speed auto, a car that was faster. I felt that the extra $4k could be saved for the moment, then used for my next car. I looked around to see nothing in my price range (new) that fit the description. But due to my brother needing a car, I had to get another car (I was driving an 06 civic prior to the SHAWD) So what i did was set a limit for myself, under $40k (california taxes as well 9.75%), new.
The only reliable luxury cars that fit the bill were the TL Base (price diff between shawd and base was nearly $4,000), g37 sedan (still $1k more than the base), or the IS250 (dealers didn't want to haggle for the 350).
I told myself that I would simply get the cheaper car and trade in after 3-5 (or so) years and get something I really want. I didn't want to lease just incase I wanted to keep it (not a fan of lease-to-buy). The dealer offered me a price $4,000 cheaper than the SHAWD, and $1,000 cheaper than the smaller (and cramped) g37 sedan. I was sold.
I also did not like the ride quality of the SHAWD as it was pretty stiff and noisy. The 5 speed auto also does not seem to match the SHAWD well. There's a difference in acceleration between the SHAWD and the Base model, in the base model, you can feel "thrust". In the SHAWD, not so much, and the gearing seems a bit strange.
The base model does not handle nearly as well as the SHAWD, but it's much quieter, smoother riding, equally fast (or even faster) straigh tline, slightly roomier (interior/trunk), and the most important, $4,000 cheaper.
I'm going to keep this car until something better comes along, I don't mind taking a small loss assuming what i get next will be "the car" that I end up keeping for upwards of 7 years. Cars on that list (future models) are:
3rd gen lexus IS/GS
2nd gen RDX SHAWD
5th gen TL
5th gen infiniti g
also possibly the 4.5 gen 2012 TL SHAWD Advanced pkg (if it will exist and if it's a nice upgrade)
Last edited by jasonwdp10; 10-20-2010 at 08:49 PM.
#13
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i find that hard to believe...when you go into a honda dealer for service, they dont give you a accord ex-L with nav to drive, but when i go into my acrua dealer for service, they do give me a tl with nav, or rdx, or mdx, or even the zdx...they just treat you different...internet, free drinks, snacks, nice leather seats to relax in, the whole 9 yards...you dont get that when you buy a honda....
#14
Believe it or not, the price before TTL and processing fee is $36,086. Total price of car after TTL and processing fee is 37,644.84, car only has 24 miles, most of which was moving it to the reserve lot (or so they say). I am using the USAA car buying service, which is already below "invoice", plus dealer incentives. From the responses, I take it this is a worthwhile deal then.
So paint is an OK, rattles aren't much of an issue (?), and overall quality is there? I am just frightened to death that this is going to be another Honda Civic catastrophe, which I am still dealing with 2.5 years later (luckily under bumper-to-bumper warranty).
So paint is an OK, rattles aren't much of an issue (?), and overall quality is there? I am just frightened to death that this is going to be another Honda Civic catastrophe, which I am still dealing with 2.5 years later (luckily under bumper-to-bumper warranty).
#15
i find that hard to believe...when you go into a honda dealer for service, they dont give you a accord ex-L with nav to drive, but when i go into my acrua dealer for service, they do give me a tl with nav, or rdx, or mdx, or even the zdx...they just treat you different...internet, free drinks, snacks, nice leather seats to relax in, the whole 9 yards...you dont get that when you buy a honda....
When i went there, the service rep was this cocky arrogant old man. No respect for anyone (i'm a young asian guy). Dismissed me at first, then realized I was the owner of the car and was a bit apologetic, but still an dick. The waiting area had 1 LCD, smelly cloth couches. No free snacks. Wifi yes, but no computers. Though they did have a keurig (sp?) coffee machine that was pretty cool. It was in the same room as the parts department and cashier so it was busy and hectic, not quiet at all.
Mines was just the first service so it didn't require a rental. However, there were a few people that needed to be places and their sales rep would only offer them a shuttle within a 10 mile radius. I'll see what happens for my next service as the dealer i bought from is out of the way.
It felt no different than the honda dealer down the street where i bought my 06 civic from. So either the honda dealer was really nice, or the acura dealer is very crappy.
I've had much better experiences with audi waiting areas and staff.
#16
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I guess the acura dealer i go to for service sucks.
When i went there, the service rep was this cocky arrogant old man. No respect for anyone (i'm a young asian guy). Dismissed me at first, then realized I was the owner of the car and was a bit apologetic, but still an dick. The waiting area had 1 LCD, smelly cloth couches. No free snacks. Wifi yes, but no computers. Though they did have a keurig (sp?) coffee machine that was pretty cool. It was in the same room as the parts department and cashier so it was busy and hectic, not quiet at all.
Mines was just the first service so it didn't require a rental. However, there were a few people that needed to be places and their sales rep would only offer them a shuttle within a 10 mile radius. I'll see what happens for my next service as the dealer i bought from is out of the way.
It felt no different than the honda dealer down the street where i bought my 06 civic from. So either the honda dealer was really nice, or the acura dealer is very crappy.
I've had much better experiences with audi waiting areas and staff.
When i went there, the service rep was this cocky arrogant old man. No respect for anyone (i'm a young asian guy). Dismissed me at first, then realized I was the owner of the car and was a bit apologetic, but still an dick. The waiting area had 1 LCD, smelly cloth couches. No free snacks. Wifi yes, but no computers. Though they did have a keurig (sp?) coffee machine that was pretty cool. It was in the same room as the parts department and cashier so it was busy and hectic, not quiet at all.
Mines was just the first service so it didn't require a rental. However, there were a few people that needed to be places and their sales rep would only offer them a shuttle within a 10 mile radius. I'll see what happens for my next service as the dealer i bought from is out of the way.
It felt no different than the honda dealer down the street where i bought my 06 civic from. So either the honda dealer was really nice, or the acura dealer is very crappy.
I've had much better experiences with audi waiting areas and staff.
#17
USAA car buying service is great. Use it if you are a member. I got a 2010 TL SH-AWD non-tech for 34,800 before taxes.
#18
Believe it or not, the price before TTL and processing fee is $36,086. Total price of car after TTL and processing fee is 37,644.84, car only has 24 miles, most of which was moving it to the reserve lot (or so they say). I am using the USAA car buying service, which is already below "invoice", plus dealer incentives. From the responses, I take it this is a worthwhile deal then.
So paint is an OK, rattles aren't much of an issue (?), and overall quality is there? I am just frightened to death that this is going to be another Honda Civic catastrophe, which I am still dealing with 2.5 years later (luckily under bumper-to-bumper warranty).
So paint is an OK, rattles aren't much of an issue (?), and overall quality is there? I am just frightened to death that this is going to be another Honda Civic catastrophe, which I am still dealing with 2.5 years later (luckily under bumper-to-bumper warranty).
i find that hard to believe...when you go into a honda dealer for service, they dont give you a accord ex-L with nav to drive, but when i go into my acrua dealer for service, they do give me a tl with nav, or rdx, or mdx, or even the zdx...they just treat you different...internet, free drinks, snacks, nice leather seats to relax in, the whole 9 yards...you dont get that when you buy a honda....
#20
^same story here with the RDX, but in our case the closer dealer is better.
#21
Racer
The price looks aggressive enough even with current incentives. Whether it's a deal depends entirely on how happy you are with the car after a few months and whether a different car could make you happier.
Make a list of everything you expect out of a car, to the Nth degree, and make sure the TL has it. By Nth degree I mean...
- Not "iPod interface" but perhaps "can search the iPod", "can voice-control the iPod", "Shuffles playlists"
- Not "Has a Nav system" but, for example, "Can accurately estimate travel time" (which the TL does amazingly well), or "pulls addresses from phone book" (no) or "Integrates Nav and trip computer" (no).
- Not just "Leather seats" but perhaps "head restraints are comfy" or "passenger seat heater heats backrest" or "rear seats fold"
- Compare it side-by-side with another car for noise with the sunroof open at freeway speeds.
- Try maneuevering in tight spaces.
#22
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I am in (reserved until I buy the car). The Manufacturers incentives were already calculated into the deal. If you're anywhere close to (reserved until I buy the car), I can send you an e-mail that was sent to me by my dealer, and you can use that as leverage in negotiating. I have been dealing with this stuff for almost a month now, so it took a bit of effort. Unfortunately for you, the clock is ticking on the .9% APR. I will input my location once I have the car and the deal is done, as there are limited blk/ebony available.
#23
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By-in-large, this car will be driven by my wife, who is not nearly as picky as myself. I've never driven a car with so many features, so it will take quite a while for most of them to grow old and the lacking aspects to come forward. My wife, who will be the ultimate critic of the car, doesn't pay so much attention to details. Thanks for the more specific things to look for, I will be sure to give them thought before we sign the paperwork.
#24
One thing to try (not exactly sure how) is to try bluetooth calling.
If i had 1 complaint from both TL's, it would be how the bluetooth system works for outgoing calls using your phone. For example, if you are in your car, and the phone is connected via bluetooth, and you use your phone to make a call, the phone will not automatically transfer the call to the car.
You need to make the call on your phone, switch to the "phone/bluetooth" menu in the car, and wait for the "transfer" line to light up, then u use the knob to select "transfer" THEN you can talk through your car. (There's a slight delay when transfering the call so the other party will be talking to no one for a few seconds, I've been hung up on a few times due to this)
A lot of people say a way to remedy this is to import your contacts to the car, and I did that before (in the SHAWD). I didn't do it to the base because I do not want to risk losing all that information incase something happens to the car. Also, it's not reasonable to get in your car and update your contacts everyday, especially if it's just a convenience call and you do not expect to call that number on a daily basis, but maybe just a few times.
Receiving calls is completely painless though.
If i had 1 complaint from both TL's, it would be how the bluetooth system works for outgoing calls using your phone. For example, if you are in your car, and the phone is connected via bluetooth, and you use your phone to make a call, the phone will not automatically transfer the call to the car.
You need to make the call on your phone, switch to the "phone/bluetooth" menu in the car, and wait for the "transfer" line to light up, then u use the knob to select "transfer" THEN you can talk through your car. (There's a slight delay when transfering the call so the other party will be talking to no one for a few seconds, I've been hung up on a few times due to this)
A lot of people say a way to remedy this is to import your contacts to the car, and I did that before (in the SHAWD). I didn't do it to the base because I do not want to risk losing all that information incase something happens to the car. Also, it's not reasonable to get in your car and update your contacts everyday, especially if it's just a convenience call and you do not expect to call that number on a daily basis, but maybe just a few times.
Receiving calls is completely painless though.
Last edited by jasonwdp10; 10-21-2010 at 06:25 PM.
#25
Suzuka Master
I owned my 2009 SH-AWD 18 months and 19K miles and the entire time it was bank vault quiet. Most amazingly tigh and best built car I have ever owned. Rock solid! Whlie I love my new 2011 M37S it is not built anywhere near as well as the TL was and the M37S cost $14K more.
#27
One thing to try (not exactly sure how) is to try bluetooth calling.
If i had 1 complaint from both TL's, it would be how the bluetooth system works for outgoing calls using your phone. For example, if you are in your car, and the phone is connected via bluetooth, and you use your phone to make a call, the phone will not automatically transfer the call to the car.
You need to make the call on your phone, switch to the "phone/bluetooth" menu in the car, and wait for the "transfer" line to light up, then u use the knob to select "transfer" THEN you can talk through your car. (There's a slight delay when transfering the call so the other party will be talking to no one for a few seconds, I've been hung up on a few times due to this)
A lot of people say a way to remedy this is to import your contacts to the car, and I did that before (in the SHAWD). I didn't do it to the base because I do not want to risk losing all that information incase something happens to the car. Also, it's not reasonable to get in your car and update your contacts everyday, especially if it's just a convenience call and you do not expect to call that number on a daily basis, but maybe just a few times.
Receiving calls is completely painless though.
If i had 1 complaint from both TL's, it would be how the bluetooth system works for outgoing calls using your phone. For example, if you are in your car, and the phone is connected via bluetooth, and you use your phone to make a call, the phone will not automatically transfer the call to the car.
You need to make the call on your phone, switch to the "phone/bluetooth" menu in the car, and wait for the "transfer" line to light up, then u use the knob to select "transfer" THEN you can talk through your car. (There's a slight delay when transfering the call so the other party will be talking to no one for a few seconds, I've been hung up on a few times due to this)
A lot of people say a way to remedy this is to import your contacts to the car, and I did that before (in the SHAWD). I didn't do it to the base because I do not want to risk losing all that information incase something happens to the car. Also, it's not reasonable to get in your car and update your contacts everyday, especially if it's just a convenience call and you do not expect to call that number on a daily basis, but maybe just a few times.
Receiving calls is completely painless though.
I owned my 2009 SH-AWD 18 months and 19K miles and the entire time it was bank vault quiet. Most amazingly tigh and best built car I have ever owned. Rock solid! Whlie I love my new 2011 M37S it is not built anywhere near as well as the TL was and the M37S cost $14K more.
Last edited by Mr Marco; 10-21-2010 at 11:31 PM.
#28
Intermediate
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Location: Scranton, Pennsylvania
Age: 41
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I paid 40,500 for an AWD/Tech and got 15K for my 2005 TL Tech (Worth 13 B.V.).
Anyway, my advice to you (deathred...or anyone else buying a new car) would be to keep trying to talk them down. If you are financing, make sure you get the .09% (for the 2010's) and figure out what you want to pay monthly (for whatever term you want) and don't say "yes" until they get the monthly payment and overall cost to where you want it to be. They will always wiggle to get you in the car. They HAVE TO sell these things. They buy these things in lots and the longer it sits out there, the more they lose money (especially the 2010's).
Also, if you have anoher dealer in your area, you are at an even bigger advantage. All you have to say is, "they offered me this", even if they didn't. I used a dealer that was over 100 miles away as my "out" if they didn't meet my price. I told them I had my overnight bag packed in my 2005 TL trade-in (which I did) to stay with my family down by the other dealer and was going to drive down there to buy it from the other dealer if they didn't meet my price. Of course they met my price, I paid what I wanted to pay, and drove away with my new ride all within 2 hours time...
Always remember:
YOU HAVE THE POWER. NOT THEM.
YOU DECIDE WHAT YOU WANT TO PAY. NOT THEM.
THEY NEED TO SELL THE CARS. YOU DON'T NEED TO BUY FROM THEM.
Anyway, my advice to you (deathred...or anyone else buying a new car) would be to keep trying to talk them down. If you are financing, make sure you get the .09% (for the 2010's) and figure out what you want to pay monthly (for whatever term you want) and don't say "yes" until they get the monthly payment and overall cost to where you want it to be. They will always wiggle to get you in the car. They HAVE TO sell these things. They buy these things in lots and the longer it sits out there, the more they lose money (especially the 2010's).
Also, if you have anoher dealer in your area, you are at an even bigger advantage. All you have to say is, "they offered me this", even if they didn't. I used a dealer that was over 100 miles away as my "out" if they didn't meet my price. I told them I had my overnight bag packed in my 2005 TL trade-in (which I did) to stay with my family down by the other dealer and was going to drive down there to buy it from the other dealer if they didn't meet my price. Of course they met my price, I paid what I wanted to pay, and drove away with my new ride all within 2 hours time...
Always remember:
YOU HAVE THE POWER. NOT THEM.
YOU DECIDE WHAT YOU WANT TO PAY. NOT THEM.
THEY NEED TO SELL THE CARS. YOU DON'T NEED TO BUY FROM THEM.
Last edited by DWDYEM2001; 10-22-2010 at 04:03 PM.
#29
Intermediate
Join Date: Sep 2005
Location: Scranton, Pennsylvania
Age: 41
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One thing to try (not exactly sure how) is to try bluetooth calling.
If i had 1 complaint from both TL's, it would be how the bluetooth system works for outgoing calls using your phone. For example, if you are in your car, and the phone is connected via bluetooth, and you use your phone to make a call, the phone will not automatically transfer the call to the car.
You need to make the call on your phone, switch to the "phone/bluetooth" menu in the car, and wait for the "transfer" line to light up, then u use the knob to select "transfer" THEN you can talk through your car. (There's a slight delay when transferring the call so the other party will be talking to no one for a few seconds, I've been hung up on a few times due to this)
A lot of people say a way to remedy this is to import your contacts to the car, and I did that before (in the SHAWD). I didn't do it to the base because I do not want to risk losing all that information incase something happens to the car. Also, it's not reasonable to get in your car and update your contacts everyday, especially if it's just a convenience call and you do not expect to call that number on a daily basis, but maybe just a few times.
Receiving calls is completely painless though.
If i had 1 complaint from both TL's, it would be how the bluetooth system works for outgoing calls using your phone. For example, if you are in your car, and the phone is connected via bluetooth, and you use your phone to make a call, the phone will not automatically transfer the call to the car.
You need to make the call on your phone, switch to the "phone/bluetooth" menu in the car, and wait for the "transfer" line to light up, then u use the knob to select "transfer" THEN you can talk through your car. (There's a slight delay when transferring the call so the other party will be talking to no one for a few seconds, I've been hung up on a few times due to this)
A lot of people say a way to remedy this is to import your contacts to the car, and I did that before (in the SHAWD). I didn't do it to the base because I do not want to risk losing all that information incase something happens to the car. Also, it's not reasonable to get in your car and update your contacts everyday, especially if it's just a convenience call and you do not expect to call that number on a daily basis, but maybe just a few times.
Receiving calls is completely painless though.
This isn't how it works if you have an iPhone. If I want to switch from the Iphone to the Handsfree on the car, all I have to do is hit "handsfree" on the phone and it instantly switches from the phone to the car's audio system. Perhaps it's the options on your phone which don't allow you to easily flip back and forth from the phone to the car. I have no problem with it.
The only problem I am having is with the ipod music connection. If I am listening to the connected ipod (not through bluetooth audio), and I make a call. After hanging up the call, the ipod music doesn't seem to come back on the radio, but it says on the screen that it is continuing to play. However, if I donconnect the iphone and plug it back in, it comes back just fine. Perhaps it is because I am using the same device to make calls and listen to music. I donno...I will ask the dealer about it when I get my remote starter put in next month.
Last edited by DWDYEM2001; 10-22-2010 at 04:01 PM.
#30
Intermediate
Join Date: Sep 2005
Location: Scranton, Pennsylvania
Age: 41
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I'll tell ya one thing; I love the HDD music feature where you can store music from your CDs to the car's hard drive. That feature kicks total ass. Have you used that at all yet?
I am still getting used to the instrument panel (after switching from my 2005 TL navi). I miss the touch screen a little, but it's an extremely small price to pay.
I am totally in love with this car. This is my first AWD and obviously the most powerful car I have every owned. It is damn fun to drive.
I am still getting used to the instrument panel (after switching from my 2005 TL navi). I miss the touch screen a little, but it's an extremely small price to pay.
I am totally in love with this car. This is my first AWD and obviously the most powerful car I have every owned. It is damn fun to drive.
#31
Intermediate
Join Date: Sep 2005
Location: Scranton, Pennsylvania
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I owned my 2009 SH-AWD 18 months and 19K miles and the entire time it was bank vault quiet. Most amazingly tigh and best built car I have ever owned. Rock solid! Whlie I love my new 2011 M37S it is not built anywhere near as well as the TL was and the M37S cost $14K more.
Do you wish you kept your TL?
That M37S is really cool looking.
Do you lease?
Last edited by DWDYEM2001; 10-22-2010 at 04:18 PM.
#32
Jay,
This isn't how it works if you have an iPhone. If I want to switch from the Iphone to the Handsfree on the car, all I have to do is hit "handsfree" on the phone and it instantly switches from the phone to the car's audio system. Perhaps it's the options on your phone which don't allow you to easily flip back and forth from the phone to the car. I have no problem with it.
The only problem I am having is with the ipod music connection. If I am listening to the connected ipod (not through bluetooth audio), and I make a call. After hanging up the call, the ipod music doesn't seem to come back on the radio, but it says on the screen that it is continuing to play. However, if I donconnect the iphone and plug it back in, it comes back just fine. Perhaps it is because I am using the same device to make calls and listen to music. I donno...I will ask the dealer about it when I get my remote starter put in next month.
This isn't how it works if you have an iPhone. If I want to switch from the Iphone to the Handsfree on the car, all I have to do is hit "handsfree" on the phone and it instantly switches from the phone to the car's audio system. Perhaps it's the options on your phone which don't allow you to easily flip back and forth from the phone to the car. I have no problem with it.
The only problem I am having is with the ipod music connection. If I am listening to the connected ipod (not through bluetooth audio), and I make a call. After hanging up the call, the ipod music doesn't seem to come back on the radio, but it says on the screen that it is continuing to play. However, if I donconnect the iphone and plug it back in, it comes back just fine. Perhaps it is because I am using the same device to make calls and listen to music. I donno...I will ask the dealer about it when I get my remote starter put in next month.
I want it to transfer automatically after i press "call" on my phone. I don't want to press call then press transfer on either device.
Just take this situation for example. You have a bluetooth headset connected to your phone. When you receive a call on your phone, it should automatically be routed to the headset. Similarly, when you make a call on your phone, it should also be automatically transferred to the headset.
I don't see why it should work any different in a car with bluetooth and I hope acura can fix this soon.
#33
Burning Brakes
Join Date: Feb 2008
Location: Ottawa, Canaduh!
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Regarding the paint, I currently own a NBP '08 TL-S.....orange peel everywhere. Last week, I took another test spin in a black '10 SH-AWD 6Spd.....orange peel everywhere. I also looked at a black MDX and TSX that were on the lot....orange peel everywhere.
The factory paint is just not that great. I detail my car typically 2 to 3 times a year which includes, clay, polish and wax and you really have to be careful when correcting swirls/scratches...clearcoat is REALLY thin.
The factory paint is just not that great. I detail my car typically 2 to 3 times a year which includes, clay, polish and wax and you really have to be careful when correcting swirls/scratches...clearcoat is REALLY thin.
#34
Intermediate
Join Date: Sep 2005
Location: Scranton, Pennsylvania
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Just take this situation for example. You have a bluetooth headset connected to your phone. When you receive a call on your phone, it should automatically be routed to the headset. Similarly, when you make a call on your phone, it should also be automatically transferred to the headset.
I don't see why it should work any different in a car with bluetooth and I hope Acura can fix this soon.
I don't see why it should work any different in a car with bluetooth and I hope Acura can fix this soon.
Personally, I would rather them not change this so that if I make a call with my phone it be automatically routed to the speaker (I don't even know if they can change this as I think it's how your phone sets up the call). But, usually the only reason I am picking up my phone to make the call (instead of using the car's dialing options) is because I actually want to use my phone instead of the hands-free calling on the car. Either way, flipping from the hands free to the phone is very simple on the iphone. I guess I just don't see this as a problem.
Last edited by DWDYEM2001; 10-23-2010 at 03:51 AM.
#36
Suzuka Master
I did lease the 09 TL-AWD and do lease the M37S. Current plan is I will be out of the M37 by Decemeber 2011 (maybe as early as March 2011). I am curious to see the 2012 TL and 2012 G, although the spy shots of the 12 TL are not winning me back yet, but a Type-S may. Also toying with a Audi A4. One thing breaking my run of 6 Acuras did was open me up more to looking non-Acura.
Last edited by KeithL; 10-23-2010 at 07:06 AM.
#37
Drifting
The difference being that you can't dial a phone call with your headset, but you can dial a phone call with the hands-free link using navi screen (by going to your phonebook, or using any of the other cars dialing options). I think the phone (not the car) assumes that if you make the call with your phone and not the handsfree link, that you want to use the phone for the call (and they give you the option to switch it if you want). If you want to make a call with the speaker, why not just use the phone dialing options on the car (instead of picking up yur phone to make the call). It's actually easier then picking up your phone while driving.
Personally, I would rather them not change this so that if I make a call with my phone it be automatically routed to the speaker (I don't even know if they can change this as I think it's how your phone sets up the call). But, usually the only reason I am picking up my phone to make the call (instead of using the car's dialing options) is because I actually want to use my phone instead of the hands-free calling on the car. Either way, flipping from the hands free to the phone is very simple on the iphone. I guess I just don't see this as a problem.
Personally, I would rather them not change this so that if I make a call with my phone it be automatically routed to the speaker (I don't even know if they can change this as I think it's how your phone sets up the call). But, usually the only reason I am picking up my phone to make the call (instead of using the car's dialing options) is because I actually want to use my phone instead of the hands-free calling on the car. Either way, flipping from the hands free to the phone is very simple on the iphone. I guess I just don't see this as a problem.
It's a very slick system.
#38
The difference being that you can't dial a phone call with your headset, but you can dial a phone call with the hands-free link using navi screen (by going to your phonebook, or using any of the other cars dialing options). I think the phone (not the car) assumes that if you make the call with your phone and not the handsfree link, that you want to use the phone for the call (and they give you the option to switch it if you want). If you want to make a call with the speaker, why not just use the phone dialing options on the car (instead of picking up yur phone to make the call). It's actually easier then picking up your phone while driving.
Personally, I would rather them not change this so that if I make a call with my phone it be automatically routed to the speaker (I don't even know if they can change this as I think it's how your phone sets up the call). But, usually the only reason I am picking up my phone to make the call (instead of using the car's dialing options) is because I actually want to use my phone instead of the hands-free calling on the car. Either way, flipping from the hands free to the phone is very simple on the iphone. I guess I just don't see this as a problem.
Personally, I would rather them not change this so that if I make a call with my phone it be automatically routed to the speaker (I don't even know if they can change this as I think it's how your phone sets up the call). But, usually the only reason I am picking up my phone to make the call (instead of using the car's dialing options) is because I actually want to use my phone instead of the hands-free calling on the car. Either way, flipping from the hands free to the phone is very simple on the iphone. I guess I just don't see this as a problem.
In any other case, i'd use the phone to make a call for numbers that are new or unusual. Unless you're telling me you add new numbers in your phone (even ones you'll only occasionally use) and re-update the contacts to your car every time you get in. Then go through the cars menu to make the call? That would take even more time.
#39
Drifting
^^ Easy. Dial on the phone, hit transfer to move the call to your car. Works perfectly.
#40
The functionality is there in either case. Speak or dial on the HFL and that way the number is in the recent calls which could be useful later, or call on the cell and transfer it, no big deal. It allows for private calls and covers all grounds this way. Maybe next time it will have a feature for an auto transfer option as well as a prompt that comes up at dial with the option of transfer or private and then of course a feature to disable that prompt.