LED Headlights or White Bulbs?
#41
#42
The inconvenient truth
JakeF
dopeboy, what HID bulbs are you running? Those look good with your LEDs.
dopeboy, what HID bulbs are you running? Those look good with your LEDs.
When you DO find the ones you like, will you personally let me know? Id love to jump on board...
The double sided tape doesnt melt? I heard the reisstors get so hot they would melt most things they touch...not true?
#43
#44
I just ordered New Phillips bulbs...Im dreading the install. But even so most people want like 200.00 bucks here in Northern Cali..thats ridiculous. i'll do it myself.
#45
Wait...lights have to break in? Mine look exactly th eway they did on day on of install. Have I mentioned how I HATE installing HID bulbs on these cars!? I burned the sh%# out of my hand once...and pulling it out of the crevice with such rapid force I scraped it...
I just ordered New Phillips bulbs...Im dreading the install. But even so most people want like 200.00 bucks here in Northern Cali..thats ridiculous. i'll do it myself.
I just ordered New Phillips bulbs...Im dreading the install. But even so most people want like 200.00 bucks here in Northern Cali..thats ridiculous. i'll do it myself.
#47
I got the Phillips Diamond Vision bulbs in the mail today.
Acura Philips Diamond Vision Bulbs
I can't wait to install them. Just to see what the dealership said, i asked them how much they will charge to replace the DRL bulbs for me. They said $20 bucks a bulb lol
Will be doing this over the weekend myself.
Acura Philips Diamond Vision Bulbs
I can't wait to install them. Just to see what the dealership said, i asked them how much they will charge to replace the DRL bulbs for me. They said $20 bucks a bulb lol
Will be doing this over the weekend myself.
#48
This is the cutoff with my CBIs. They’re listed as 6000K bulbs but are completely different in color and light output than my other 6000Ks. This cutoff line is quite a bit better than I had with the older OEM bulbs and the other 6000Ks. Would definitely recommend.
#50
#51
#52
The inconvenient truth
Its really easy... just open the hood, remove the plastic trim pieces, remove the plastic duct on the driver side (4 clips) , remove the coolant reservoir on the passenger side (it lifts right out) and that gives you access to the DRLs from the top. Pay attention to which way the bulbs rotate when removing so you can put the new bulbs in the same way the old ones came out.
#54
I installed the Philips Diamond Vision 5000k bulbs for the DRL/High beam.
The DRL is still yellow. The high beam is white. Plus the DRL looks really dim. It is seated and locked correctly.
Is the quality just poor? What's going on here?
Picture 1 is High beam - White
Picture 2 is DRL - Yellow?
Picture 3 is front of the car with DRLs on - Yellow?
#57
Keeping TL until 2029
I have noticed that NON Led bulbs will always be yellow no matter what. If you set it to high beam, it may look more whiter. Going LED is the only way to go and don't get cheap ones....
#60
The inconvenient truth
Yes you need that harness but the lights should still work without them. The harness for our cars keeps the drl warning light on the dash from coming on.
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kcinac (04-13-2018)
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kcinac (04-17-2018)
#68
Cruisin'
Are the Lasfit or Putco LEDs dimmer when using as DRL and do they need a decoder or do they work out of the box?
I'm doing alot of research on this as well, I already put in LED fogs and really don't like the look of the stock yellow DRLs.
I'm doing alot of research on this as well, I already put in LED fogs and really don't like the look of the stock yellow DRLs.
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echodigital (04-19-2018)
#69
Keeping TL until 2029
https://acurazine.com/forums/fourth-...pgrade-953482/
I would get these ones from Putco (DRL-9005 bulb).
https://www.carid.com/putco/silver-l...pn-309005.html
You don't need the Anti-Flicker Harness. I just bought the one below because I wasn't sure....
https://www.carid.com/putco/silver-l...pn-289005.html
Because I am in Canada, I ordered mine via t-dot performance. Good luck. In DRL mode, the lights are really bright. Trust me, it's a really good mod/upgrade.
I would get these ones from Putco (DRL-9005 bulb).
https://www.carid.com/putco/silver-l...pn-309005.html
You don't need the Anti-Flicker Harness. I just bought the one below because I wasn't sure....
https://www.carid.com/putco/silver-l...pn-289005.html
Because I am in Canada, I ordered mine via t-dot performance. Good luck. In DRL mode, the lights are really bright. Trust me, it's a really good mod/upgrade.
Last edited by echodigital; 04-19-2018 at 02:54 PM.
#70
Cruisin'
Thanks, I actually bought a cheap pair from Amazon that came with an anti-flicker harness just to try them out. If these work/look good maybe I'll spring for the more expensive set.
#72
The challenge that everyon has woith ones that are in the 40-80 dollar rangeis they work but they dont last long. A couple months if that Ive rad in the forum.
IN will be interesting to see how long they last. Thats Why I went back to the Phillip Halogen. The DRLS operate at HALF The voltage i imgagine than then High Beam.
So for them to appear as bright as the LED eyelines in the newer Acuras, you would have to have totally Seperate lights. The Dual thing Screws us over having the same light as DRL and High Beam.
IN will be interesting to see how long they last. Thats Why I went back to the Phillip Halogen. The DRLS operate at HALF The voltage i imgagine than then High Beam.
So for them to appear as bright as the LED eyelines in the newer Acuras, you would have to have totally Seperate lights. The Dual thing Screws us over having the same light as DRL and High Beam.
#73
The challenge that everyon has woith ones that are in the 40-80 dollar rangeis they work but they dont last long. A couple months if that Ive rad in the forum.
IN will be interesting to see how long they last. Thats Why I went back to the Phillip Halogen. The DRLS operate at HALF The voltage i imgagine than then High Beam.
So for them to appear as bright as the LED eyelines in the newer Acuras, you would have to have totally Seperate lights. The Dual thing Screws us over having the same light as DRL and High Beam.
IN will be interesting to see how long they last. Thats Why I went back to the Phillip Halogen. The DRLS operate at HALF The voltage i imgagine than then High Beam.
So for them to appear as bright as the LED eyelines in the newer Acuras, you would have to have totally Seperate lights. The Dual thing Screws us over having the same light as DRL and High Beam.
These have built in heat sink and fan in them. No decoder needed as the voltage is not that high.
I have had mine for a few weeks, they have been great!
#74
The challenge that everyon has woith ones that are in the 40-80 dollar rangeis they work but they dont last long. A couple months if that Ive rad in the forum.
IN will be interesting to see how long they last. Thats Why I went back to the Phillip Halogen. The DRLS operate at HALF The voltage i imgagine than then High Beam.
So for them to appear as bright as the LED eyelines in the newer Acuras, you would have to have totally Seperate lights. The Dual thing Screws us over having the same light as DRL and High Beam.
Also The Load Resistors or Decoder if you will, gets INCREDIBLY HOT on some brands so you have to do drilling to attach it to something metal as not to melt plastics that might touch.
After struggling with all of that I said F*%$ it. Im goingt back to halogen. So...Any light I buy will have to:
• ACTUALLY get brighter when I turn on High Beams.
• Have a built in Decoder, no additional Pieces that get hot enough to melt plastic
• NO DRILLING OF ANY KIND
• Will work More than 30 days
• at LEAST one sex toy included in the package (TOTALLY kidding....just thought it would be funny)
IN will be interesting to see how long they last. Thats Why I went back to the Phillip Halogen. The DRLS operate at HALF The voltage i imgagine than then High Beam.
So for them to appear as bright as the LED eyelines in the newer Acuras, you would have to have totally Seperate lights. The Dual thing Screws us over having the same light as DRL and High Beam.
Also The Load Resistors or Decoder if you will, gets INCREDIBLY HOT on some brands so you have to do drilling to attach it to something metal as not to melt plastics that might touch.
After struggling with all of that I said F*%$ it. Im goingt back to halogen. So...Any light I buy will have to:
• ACTUALLY get brighter when I turn on High Beams.
• Have a built in Decoder, no additional Pieces that get hot enough to melt plastic
• NO DRILLING OF ANY KIND
• Will work More than 30 days
• at LEAST one sex toy included in the package (TOTALLY kidding....just thought it would be funny)
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