basharalshamma

Hello everyone,
I am new to the forum and to the Acura brand. As the title read, I bought my first Acura (2010 TL AWD-Tech. automatic) with 38K miles two weeks ago.
I went through enough posts to figure out the major issues for this model and I can live with it except for the torque converter and the stiff ride. I need your advise to decide whether I keep the car or cut my loses and get rid of it.
Is it normal that the downshifts hold the car back as if the brake was applied? In other words, when I get to certain speed and then lift my foot and the car slows down gradually, I can feel the car downshifting harsh (kind of) as if someone applied the brake momentarily during the downshift and the same happens with next downshift as the car gets slower and slower. This particularly annoying if i am braking and the car brakes even more with the downshifts. It is impossible to have smooth braking no matter how I try to adjust my braking pressure.
Is this related to the torque converter issue? I took the car to the dealer and they claim that the technician couldn't find anything wrong with it and while the converter is not replaced under the extended warranty (expired 8 month ago), the software, supposedly, is up to date.
Your help is highly appreciated.

dopeboy1

when was the transmission fluid changed last?

basharalshamma

Not sure but the service advisor told me that the fluid looked clean

losiglow

iTrader: (1)

I'd do a drain and refill of the fluid anyway. It's pretty easy to do yourself. Or you can have the dealer do it. They'll charge upwards of $120 or so. You can do it for about $30 (just the cost of the fluid).

But yeah, I'd say that I notice the downshifts a bit more on this car than on other auto's I've driven. Granted, I have a 2012 FWD which has a different transmission and drivetrain so it's not really apples to apples. It's not overly obtrusive IMO but it's definitely more noticeable.

basharalshamma

I was thinking of replacing the fluids (brake, transmission and diff's.) to judge the car behavior on solid ground but the idea of spending this kind of money is hard to swallow specially if I the issue is not fixed by the fluid flush. If the issue is related to the converter (or any other costly repair), I will get rid of the car and minimize my loses. If I decide to keep the car, flushing the fluids will be a must.
I live in an apartment complex and it is not easy to do the fluids by myself (even though I am very handy). I think it is better to have the dealer do it (at least the trans fluid) so it can be documented in case I try to get Acura to cover the converter under the extended warranty if needed. I will get a quote for the full flush (all fluids) and partial flush (trans. only) and report back.
Thanks for the feeds back and suggestions

dopeboy1

If you don't know when the transmission fluid was changed last then just get that done and it might make a big difference. Make sure not to 'flush' the transmission though, only drain and fill.

basharalshamma

Thanks. It looks like a fluid drain and fill is highly recommended in my situation. I will try to get it done over the weekend. Any thread you can point me to for a DIY instructions to see if I have what it takes to do it or have the dealer do it (for documentation mainly).

kevinh1919

That is really low mileage - good find.

Here are a few transmission-related links from the How-Tos section at the top of the page: Acura TL 4th Gen Transmission Guides

Let us know if it makes a difference.

Good luck!

basharalshamma

Thanks for the link and wishes. I will definitely update the post after the weekend.
My plan was to keep this car till 150-160K (with minimal/regular maintenance) but after driving it for the past couple of weeks, I doubt this car is the one to keep. I am trying my best to isolate actual issues from normal behavior before I make my decision as I really love everything else about it.
The other issue is the stiff ride. I know the TL should be stiffer than the average car but this car is too harsh/stiff (The 18's only add to the problem). I am starting to feel as if an aftermarket springs/shocks are installed instead of the factory ones. I am not sure if it is easy to figure out by visual inspection but I will try to get some info about the suspension.

dopeboy1

SH-AWD TL's do have stiff suspensions. Probably stiffer than you are used to. Its good because it helps them corner like a mofo with the sh-awd but not so great for ride quality. Also the tires can factor into it as well. But it really, really sounds like you would have benefited from test driving the car before purchasing.

basharalshamma

You are probably right. I will admit that I didn't test drive it because the dealership side blinded me about something else and made me forgot about the test drive (which was planned and the car was pulled in front). I don't think the test drive would have changed my mind though, as I only started noticing the harsh rolling few days after (during my daily commute) specially when the transmission shifts (or braking) while going through a series of bumps. It just ruins my leg coordination when the car rolls left and right without any forgiveness. If the road doesn't cause body roll, I have no problem with the way bumps are handled.
I don't know if my words make sense but I think the picture is clearer about what I meant by the stiff suspension.

basharalshamma

I checked with a couple of dealers and they quoted me around $240 (including the transfer case drain) with 20% discount for 1st time customers. I checked the DIY tutorial and I can safely say that the tools required + the fluid cost will be very close to the dealer price. The fact that I don't have the space to do it myself just made the decision a lot easier.
If I keep the car, I will definitely invest in a more economical solution. I know many members do trans. fluid drain every other oil change.

Do you guys recommend doing the brake fluid too (around $150)? I know the manual recommends it every three years regardless of the mileage.
Regards,