Compression test?
#1
Compression test?
New owner to the car and trying to perform a compression test, seems the push to start will not try to turn over with either or both the fuel pump / ignition coil fuse removed. Is there a specific procedure these cars need to do a test? I don’t want to hAve to pull the intake manifold off to unplug the fuel injectors
#2
So I looked in the service manual, and unfortunately the official procedures expect you to have the Honda Diagnostic System tools to digitally disable the injectors:
But, looking deeper into the fuses that control the injectors and ignition coils, you may have pulled the wrong one. If you pulled 20A fuse 9 under the driver's dash, you killed the fuel pumps, but you also killed the immobilizer, ECM/PCM, and other stuff which may explain why it doesn't crank at all.
Maybe pulling the PGM-FI main relay 2 (which is the relay for the fuel pumps) from under the driver's dash would work? I've never had to do a compression test on my TL, but that might help. If not, then yeah, physically unplugging the injectors may be the solution.
But, looking deeper into the fuses that control the injectors and ignition coils, you may have pulled the wrong one. If you pulled 20A fuse 9 under the driver's dash, you killed the fuel pumps, but you also killed the immobilizer, ECM/PCM, and other stuff which may explain why it doesn't crank at all.
Maybe pulling the PGM-FI main relay 2 (which is the relay for the fuel pumps) from under the driver's dash would work? I've never had to do a compression test on my TL, but that might help. If not, then yeah, physically unplugging the injectors may be the solution.
#4
My advice:
Disconnect starter, connect crocodile wire to the starter plug. Other end to the car battery or 12v power supply.
Thats it. Dont need to deal with all the bull...
The following users liked this post:
Rob Milam (01-11-2020)
#5
#6
thanks man it worked like a charm, for anyone looking it was a blue relay on my car.
compression warm was high, I’m thinking carbon deposits.
260-280 psi across all cylinders, some samples below of the low and high all other cylinders were in between.
not bad for 188k
compression warm was high, I’m thinking carbon deposits.
260-280 psi across all cylinders, some samples below of the low and high all other cylinders were in between.
not bad for 188k
#7
Nice! Glad to see it worked out.
And those pressures do look pretty high. Service manual says normal range for both the J35 and J37 should be within 135-163 psi.
And those pressures do look pretty high. Service manual says normal range for both the J35 and J37 should be within 135-163 psi.
Last edited by Riboflavin; 01-11-2020 at 09:12 PM.
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