Can I replace my own motor mount?
#1
Can I replace my own motor mount?
Started noticing a clank coming from the front passenger side when I would hit a bump, didnt have to look too hard to see the motor mount is shot https://i.imgur.com/bxGG0Ox.jpg
I found a replacement on Rock Auto for $42 and its on its way. Is it possible to replace myself or is this better left to the mechanics?
I found a replacement on Rock Auto for $42 and its on its way. Is it possible to replace myself or is this better left to the mechanics?
#3
So I dont need to jack up the engine and stuff? Also, any harm driving it like this for a few days?
#5
#7
And yes, you can drive with the mount broken for an unlimited amount of time, but certainly want to replace it when you can.
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#8
Here's an excellent write-up.
Tools needed:
1. factory scissor jack
2. floor jack
3. 17mm socket
4. 3/8 ratchet
5. 12" 3/8 extension
6. 6" 3/8 extension
7. piece of 2x4x12 (6" would be better)
8. other pieces of 2x4 to prevent the rear wheels from moving during jacking
Procedure:
1. pull the brake fluid reservoir up and out (it's sitting on a slider)
2. loosen top mount bolt (12x45) using 17mm socket
3. loosen 2 bottom bolts using 17mm socket and 18" extension (make sure you clear the A/C lines when ratcheting - don't want to bend/crack it)
4. use factory scissor jack to lift the car up enough to get the floor jack and the 2x4 piece of wood under the oil pan
Note: Oil pan is not flat at bottom. Use the rear surface as the jack point as it is flat while the front surface is a bit angled.
5. use the floor jack to slightly lift the engine up and provide support to remove the top bolt on the mount.
Note: Use patience as there's no hurry and constantly check the bolt looseness after one or two pumps on the floor jack.
6. once the engine is firmly supported on the 2x4 and floor jack, go ahead and remove the top bolt (might have to release a bit of pressure or jack the engine up slightly to get the bolt out completely - should slide out with ease)
7. after top bolt is out, use extension and 17mm socket to remove the bottom bolts (2)
8. slightly jack the engine up a bit more so that the engine bracket does not exert any pressure on the mount
9. slide the mount out slowly careful to not brush the metal edges of the mount's base against the belt assembly. Don't want to scrape the belt as it will eventually result in permanent damage
10. slide in your mount slowly and with patience right-side up and in the orientation that it should sit
Note: There's a black arrow engraved on the base of the mount. Make sure the arrow is pointing to the front (and arrow is in the top right position)
11. slide in the NEW top bolt to connect the mount with the engine bracket again. Might requires some adjustment using the jack. Don't tighten the bolt just yet
12. Hand thread in the two bottom bolts (use the extension without the ratchet as it's easier to turn and ensure that there's no cross-threading)
13. Start tightening the two bottom bolts but do not apply final torque. Want enough tightness to drop the engine down and remove the floor jack.
14. Lower the car and remove the scissor jack
15. tighten all the bolts (top and bottom)
16. slide the brake reservoir back onto the metal bracket
17. finished!
Have fun. And remember, it's VERY easy to do and the most important tool is patience.
Tools needed:
1. factory scissor jack
2. floor jack
3. 17mm socket
4. 3/8 ratchet
5. 12" 3/8 extension
6. 6" 3/8 extension
7. piece of 2x4x12 (6" would be better)
8. other pieces of 2x4 to prevent the rear wheels from moving during jacking
Procedure:
1. pull the brake fluid reservoir up and out (it's sitting on a slider)
2. loosen top mount bolt (12x45) using 17mm socket
3. loosen 2 bottom bolts using 17mm socket and 18" extension (make sure you clear the A/C lines when ratcheting - don't want to bend/crack it)
4. use factory scissor jack to lift the car up enough to get the floor jack and the 2x4 piece of wood under the oil pan
Note: Oil pan is not flat at bottom. Use the rear surface as the jack point as it is flat while the front surface is a bit angled.
5. use the floor jack to slightly lift the engine up and provide support to remove the top bolt on the mount.
Note: Use patience as there's no hurry and constantly check the bolt looseness after one or two pumps on the floor jack.
6. once the engine is firmly supported on the 2x4 and floor jack, go ahead and remove the top bolt (might have to release a bit of pressure or jack the engine up slightly to get the bolt out completely - should slide out with ease)
7. after top bolt is out, use extension and 17mm socket to remove the bottom bolts (2)
8. slightly jack the engine up a bit more so that the engine bracket does not exert any pressure on the mount
9. slide the mount out slowly careful to not brush the metal edges of the mount's base against the belt assembly. Don't want to scrape the belt as it will eventually result in permanent damage
10. slide in your mount slowly and with patience right-side up and in the orientation that it should sit
Note: There's a black arrow engraved on the base of the mount. Make sure the arrow is pointing to the front (and arrow is in the top right position)
11. slide in the NEW top bolt to connect the mount with the engine bracket again. Might requires some adjustment using the jack. Don't tighten the bolt just yet
12. Hand thread in the two bottom bolts (use the extension without the ratchet as it's easier to turn and ensure that there's no cross-threading)
13. Start tightening the two bottom bolts but do not apply final torque. Want enough tightness to drop the engine down and remove the floor jack.
14. Lower the car and remove the scissor jack
15. tighten all the bolts (top and bottom)
16. slide the brake reservoir back onto the metal bracket
17. finished!
Have fun. And remember, it's VERY easy to do and the most important tool is patience.
#9
Former Sponsor
The side mount is relatively easy. Might want to get a jack underneath just to make life easier as VisualEchos mentioned.
#10
A couple of safety tips to add to the list above: disconnect the battery "-"... just in case! The torque specs on the bolts are: the 2 bottom ones 47 lb-ft, The two on the upper half 40 lb-ft and the single bottom horizontal one 47 lb-ft. Don't forget to re-install the ground cable! Take a close look at the bolts when you remove them for cracks and thread issues. The shop manual says "replace", I would, not sure about you. They are inexpensive so you might as well replace all 5 of them.
PS. you are lucky its not the front mount... many radiators have died horrible stabbing deaths in the history of J engines
PS. you are lucky its not the front mount... many radiators have died horrible stabbing deaths in the history of J engines
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VisualEchos (07-18-2015)
#11
Burning Brakes
Yes
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