Basic front brake job and rotor screws

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Old 07-23-2019, 11:54 PM
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Basic front brake job and rotor screws

Bendix rotors (prob China) and parts master ceramic pads for 2009 tl

https://www.amazon.com/Bendix-Premium-Drum-Rotor-PRT6054/dp/B075J8Q5ZD/ref=sr_1_15?_encoding=UTF8&qid=1563943033&rnid=6149812011&s=automotive&sr=1-15&vehicle=2009-58-749-20--1-6-5-9084-2669-1-1-2929--1&vehicleName=2009+Acura+TL https://www.amazon.com/Bendix-Premium-Drum-Rotor-PRT6054/dp/B075J8Q5ZD/ref=sr_1_15?_encoding=UTF8&qid=1563943033&rnid=6149812011&s=automotive&sr=1-15&vehicle=2009-58-749-20--1-6-5-9084-2669-1-1-2929--1&vehicleName=2009+Acura+TL

https://www.ebay.com/itm/Parts-Maste...72.m2749.l2649


Wagner rotors made in USA last avail and parts master ceramic pads for 2001 cl/tl

https://www.ebay.com/itm/Wagner-BD12...72.m2749.l2649

https://www.ebay.com/itm/Parts-Maste...72.m2749.l2649

rotors and pads were $90 shipped for the 2009 and $100 for the 2001.

Hopefully the pads will not make that much brake dust and the rotors wont warp soon.

Are the rotor screws important?
Old 07-24-2019, 12:20 AM
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Cant edit the post. Had a bad experience last time on the cheap off brand rotors and pads for the 2001. Warped within a year and the "ceramic" pads make more brake dust than organic.
Old 07-24-2019, 04:51 AM
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no, rotor screws were only put there for the assembly line...to keep the rotor on the hub as it travels down the line...

your wheels hold the rotor in place when you go to torque the wheels
Old 07-24-2019, 07:19 AM
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Originally Posted by asb32952
Cant edit the post. Had a bad experience last time on the cheap off brand rotors and pads for the 2001. Warped within a year and the "ceramic" pads make more brake dust than organic.
Not sure what pads you're talking about, but as a general rule, Ceramic pads dust F-A-R - L-E-S-S than Organic pads.

And yes, throw those stupid set screws in the trash.
Old 07-25-2019, 01:11 PM
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The screws can be a pain to remove. They're made of the softest metal ever so they strip super easy - definitely not steel. Gotta be zinc or something. Anyways, you might find yourself needing to drill them out. Spray a bit of PB blaster on them and let them sit a while and hopefully you don't have to go with the drill-out method.
Old 07-25-2019, 04:59 PM
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Originally Posted by losiglow
The screws can be a pain to remove. They're made of the softest metal ever so they strip super easy - definitely not steel. Gotta be zinc or something. Anyways, you might find yourself needing to drill them out. Spray a bit of PB blaster on them and let them sit a while and hopefully you don't have to go with the drill-out method.


I had to do the same and drill them bad boys out. Use some good brake grease! I've started using PERMATEX PURPLE Brake grease on my EBC's and other pads and they haven't made a peep. On my 4G TL I used the enclosed grease and the brakes squealed EVERY TIME. No more squeal with the purple.

Just note ceramic pads will not have the same "bite" and initial feel as other pads and they may have a lower coefficient of friction vs. factory.
Old 07-25-2019, 10:23 PM
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Originally Posted by csmeance


I had to do the same and drill them bad boys out. Use some good brake grease! I've started using PERMATEX PURPLE Brake grease on my EBC's and other pads and they haven't made a peep. On my 4G TL I used the enclosed grease and the brakes squealed EVERY TIME. No more squeal with the purple.

Just note ceramic pads will not have the same "bite" and initial feel as other pads and they may have a lower coefficient of friction vs. factory.
Originally Posted by losiglow
The screws can be a pain to remove. They're made of the softest metal ever so they strip super easy - definitely not steel. Gotta be zinc or something. Anyways, you might find yourself needing to drill them out. Spray a bit of PB blaster on them and let them sit a while and hopefully you don't have to go with the drill-out method.
Using an impact driver works quite well actually. Every car i've done a brake job on that has those stupid rotor screws has been a royal pain in the ass. They're almost always seized on. One or two hits with a hammer on the impact driver usually breaks them loose! You can pick one up pretty cheap. Definitely handy for a lot of things.
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Old 07-28-2019, 02:46 PM
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Those little screws are a pain in the derriere but they are actually a good idea.
It's true that they're not really needed and lots of brands don't have them but
If you install them properly they ensure that the rotor is seated against the hub and then when you install the caliper over the rotor every thing is in place correctly.
You can also use a couple wheel nuts to make sure the rotor is seated properly against the hub if you don't use the little screws.
Which is a very good trick if you didn't know it already.
Old 07-28-2019, 03:59 PM
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@jim_c So what you're saying is the set screws are utterly and completely worthless; I couldn't agree more.
Old 07-28-2019, 08:01 PM
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I agree with jim_c and leave the rotor screws in place for a couple reasons:

1. The factory installed them and they do serve a purpose when doing brake work other than removing the rotors.
2. It's just not that big of a deal to remove them if one uses the correct technique...I've never stripped a screw and rarely have to use the impact driver

Always use the proper size phillips screwdriver. The 1st time around if the screw if frozen...I simply place the round end of a small ball peen hammer on the screw head and whack it a couple times with a bigger hammer. Shock/vibration is very effective at breaking corrosion loose...and after a couple whacks I simply unscrew them as normal. Anti-seize on the threads when re-installed ensures they will not freeze again.
Old 07-29-2019, 03:01 PM
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And FWIW my BMW has a similar item. They use one small screw which fits flush in a recess in the rotor and this screw requires a 5mm allen key.
So it's not just Honda/Acura that thinks this is a good idea.
Old 07-29-2019, 03:32 PM
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Originally Posted by jim_c
And FWIW my BMW has a similar item. They use one small screw which fits flush in a recess in the rotor and this screw requires a 5mm allen key.
So it's not just Honda/Acura that thinks this is a good idea.
It is only a good idea for the assembly line; for a brake job, no, not so much. At least my BMWs used a metal and friction head for the screw not so prone to damage.
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