Basic front brake job and rotor screws
#1
Basic front brake job and rotor screws
Bendix rotors (prob China) and parts master ceramic pads for 2009 tl
https://www.amazon.com/Bendix-Premium-Drum-Rotor-PRT6054/dp/B075J8Q5ZD/ref=sr_1_15?_encoding=UTF8&qid=1563943033&rnid=6149812011&s=automotive&sr=1-15&vehicle=2009-58-749-20--1-6-5-9084-2669-1-1-2929--1&vehicleName=2009+Acura+TL
https://www.ebay.com/itm/Parts-Maste...72.m2749.l2649
Wagner rotors made in USA last avail and parts master ceramic pads for 2001 cl/tl
https://www.ebay.com/itm/Wagner-BD12...72.m2749.l2649
https://www.ebay.com/itm/Parts-Maste...72.m2749.l2649
rotors and pads were $90 shipped for the 2009 and $100 for the 2001.
Hopefully the pads will not make that much brake dust and the rotors wont warp soon.
Are the rotor screws important?
![https://www.amazon.com/Bendix-Premium-Drum-Rotor-PRT6054/dp/B075J8Q5ZD/ref=sr_1_15?_encoding=UTF8&qid=1563943033&rnid=6149812011&s=automotive&sr=1-15&vehicle=2009-58-749-20--1-6-5-9084-2669-1-1-2929--1&vehicleName=2009+Acura+TL](https://acurazine.com/forums/images/misc/amazon_icon.gif)
https://www.ebay.com/itm/Parts-Maste...72.m2749.l2649
Wagner rotors made in USA last avail and parts master ceramic pads for 2001 cl/tl
https://www.ebay.com/itm/Wagner-BD12...72.m2749.l2649
https://www.ebay.com/itm/Parts-Maste...72.m2749.l2649
rotors and pads were $90 shipped for the 2009 and $100 for the 2001.
Hopefully the pads will not make that much brake dust and the rotors wont warp soon.
Are the rotor screws important?
#2
Cant edit the post. Had a bad experience last time on the cheap off brand rotors and pads for the 2001. Warped within a year and the "ceramic" pads make more brake dust than organic.
#4
Latent car nut
iTrader: (2)
Join Date: Jan 2017
Location: Southern New Hampshire
Age: 68
Posts: 7,853
Received 2,008 Likes
on
1,410 Posts
And yes, throw those stupid set screws in the trash.
#5
Drifting
iTrader: (1)
Join Date: Nov 2010
Location: Salt Lake City, UT
Age: 42
Posts: 3,490
Received 852 Likes
on
605 Posts
The screws can be a pain to remove. They're made of the softest metal ever so they strip super easy - definitely not steel. Gotta be zinc or something. Anyways, you might find yourself needing to drill them out. Spray a bit of PB blaster on them and let them sit a while and hopefully you don't have to go with the drill-out method.
#6
Senior Moderator
The screws can be a pain to remove. They're made of the softest metal ever so they strip super easy - definitely not steel. Gotta be zinc or something. Anyways, you might find yourself needing to drill them out. Spray a bit of PB blaster on them and let them sit a while and hopefully you don't have to go with the drill-out method.
![Agree](https://acurazine.com/forums/images/smilies/agree.gif)
I had to do the same and drill them bad boys out. Use some good brake grease! I've started using PERMATEX PURPLE Brake grease on my EBC's and other pads and they haven't made a peep. On my 4G TL I used the enclosed grease and the brakes squealed EVERY TIME. No more squeal with the purple.
Just note ceramic pads will not have the same "bite" and initial feel as other pads and they may have a lower coefficient of friction vs. factory.
#7
Advanced
![Agree](https://acurazine.com/forums/images/smilies/agree.gif)
I had to do the same and drill them bad boys out. Use some good brake grease! I've started using PERMATEX PURPLE Brake grease on my EBC's and other pads and they haven't made a peep. On my 4G TL I used the enclosed grease and the brakes squealed EVERY TIME. No more squeal with the purple.
Just note ceramic pads will not have the same "bite" and initial feel as other pads and they may have a lower coefficient of friction vs. factory.
The screws can be a pain to remove. They're made of the softest metal ever so they strip super easy - definitely not steel. Gotta be zinc or something. Anyways, you might find yourself needing to drill them out. Spray a bit of PB blaster on them and let them sit a while and hopefully you don't have to go with the drill-out method.
The following users liked this post:
losiglow (07-26-2019)
Trending Topics
#8
Burning Brakes
Those little screws are a pain in the derriere but they are actually a good idea.
It's true that they're not really needed and lots of brands don't have them but
If you install them properly they ensure that the rotor is seated against the hub and then when you install the caliper over the rotor every thing is in place correctly.
You can also use a couple wheel nuts to make sure the rotor is seated properly against the hub if you don't use the little screws.
Which is a very good trick if you didn't know it already.
It's true that they're not really needed and lots of brands don't have them but
If you install them properly they ensure that the rotor is seated against the hub and then when you install the caliper over the rotor every thing is in place correctly.
You can also use a couple wheel nuts to make sure the rotor is seated properly against the hub if you don't use the little screws.
Which is a very good trick if you didn't know it already.
#9
Latent car nut
iTrader: (2)
Join Date: Jan 2017
Location: Southern New Hampshire
Age: 68
Posts: 7,853
Received 2,008 Likes
on
1,410 Posts
@jim_c So what you're saying is the set screws are utterly and completely worthless; I couldn't agree more.
![Smile](https://acurazine.com/forums/images/smilies/smile.gif)
#10
I agree with jim_c and leave the rotor screws in place for a couple reasons:
1. The factory installed them and they do serve a purpose when doing brake work other than removing the rotors.
2. It's just not that big of a deal to remove them if one uses the correct technique...I've never stripped a screw and rarely have to use the impact driver
Always use the proper size phillips screwdriver. The 1st time around if the screw if frozen...I simply place the round end of a small ball peen hammer on the screw head and whack it a couple times with a bigger hammer. Shock/vibration is very effective at breaking corrosion loose...and after a couple whacks I simply unscrew them as normal. Anti-seize on the threads when re-installed ensures they will not freeze again.
1. The factory installed them and they do serve a purpose when doing brake work other than removing the rotors.
2. It's just not that big of a deal to remove them if one uses the correct technique...I've never stripped a screw and rarely have to use the impact driver
Always use the proper size phillips screwdriver. The 1st time around if the screw if frozen...I simply place the round end of a small ball peen hammer on the screw head and whack it a couple times with a bigger hammer. Shock/vibration is very effective at breaking corrosion loose...and after a couple whacks I simply unscrew them as normal. Anti-seize on the threads when re-installed ensures they will not freeze again.
#11
Burning Brakes
And FWIW my BMW has a similar item. They use one small screw which fits flush in a recess in the rotor and this screw requires a 5mm allen key.
So it's not just Honda/Acura that thinks this is a good idea.
So it's not just Honda/Acura that thinks this is a good idea.
#12
Latent car nut
iTrader: (2)
Join Date: Jan 2017
Location: Southern New Hampshire
Age: 68
Posts: 7,853
Received 2,008 Likes
on
1,410 Posts
It is only a good idea for the assembly line; for a brake job, no, not so much. At least my BMWs used a metal and friction head for the screw not so prone to damage.
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
MrHeeltoe
3G TL Problems & Fixes
24
08-11-2010 03:12 PM
MrHeeltoe
2G CL Problems & Fixes
4
07-07-2010 02:50 PM