3.7L block replaced
#1
3.7L block replaced
Thought I would keep everyone updated. This engine has 70K and was using about 1.5 qt per 2K miles. Factory authorized replacement.
Block replacement was completed yesterday. It came with a water pump but I had to pay for the belt and tensioner. The mechanic stated that the other parts were fine. Did not change the spark plugs because the dealer would not alter the labor charge whether the heads were out or not.
Got a chance to see the block. Dark oily carbon deposits on the piston crowns. Due to oil usage according to the mechanic. He theorized that the rings were coked up. All the pistons had equal deposits, but I could still see the relief cuts on the crowns.
Cylinder walls looked an even grey in color I guess due to the aluminum liners.
Looking for suggestions:
1. Break in. Easy (didn't work the first time) Hard (scares me)
2. First oil change? How soon?
3. Which oil viscosity? 5W-20 synthetic didn't seem to work the first time.
4. How often to change the oil to try to prevent stuck rings.
Thanks for your suggestions in advance.
Block replacement was completed yesterday. It came with a water pump but I had to pay for the belt and tensioner. The mechanic stated that the other parts were fine. Did not change the spark plugs because the dealer would not alter the labor charge whether the heads were out or not.
Got a chance to see the block. Dark oily carbon deposits on the piston crowns. Due to oil usage according to the mechanic. He theorized that the rings were coked up. All the pistons had equal deposits, but I could still see the relief cuts on the crowns.
Cylinder walls looked an even grey in color I guess due to the aluminum liners.
Looking for suggestions:
1. Break in. Easy (didn't work the first time) Hard (scares me)
2. First oil change? How soon?
3. Which oil viscosity? 5W-20 synthetic didn't seem to work the first time.
4. How often to change the oil to try to prevent stuck rings.
Thanks for your suggestions in advance.
#2
Senior Moderator
Id really like someone who changed out engines due to oil consumption get the pistons to be taken out. Id like to see if from the factory the 2nd ring is placed in upside down. My guess is yes.
#3
Burning Brakes
Sorry I am at no help but I would trade in my car in about 20-30K miles. Sounds to me it's a design issue unless Acura has corrected it with the new block.
#4
This is certainly on my mind. I should know if the issue is resolved. If not, I may just do this. Problem is, I cannot find a car that is an equal to my TL without paying 50K.
#5
Burning Brakes
Move down to Subaru WRX Limited or move up to Audi A4 or BMW 3.
Or buy a 3G TL for 10K and spend the rest 30K on a second car (S2000, 370Z, Z4, newer Cayman/Boxster, older 911)
#7
Burning Brakes
Thanks for posting.
The part about the plugs is pretty funny!
They can be changed in 15 minutes with the engine in the car, in two minutes with the heads on the bench. But they would have charged you a crazy price for the plugs themselves. Interesting.
The part about the plugs is pretty funny!
They can be changed in 15 minutes with the engine in the car, in two minutes with the heads on the bench. But they would have charged you a crazy price for the plugs themselves. Interesting.
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#8
Drifting
I don't know that this would be much of a solution. Move UP to an A4? That would be a serious downgrade in my book.
OP, thanks for the update. Please keep us informed of your experience.
#9
2020 Acura RLX Advance
I ran my 2003 CL-S 3.2 from new to 183k in 3.5 years and my 2006 RL 170k. Neither burned a drop of oil and neither does my 3.7 liter 2012 RL (59k). But I know people with late model Accords that do. What went wrong at Honda?
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