???Vibration after 3 sets of tires???
???Vibration after 3 sets of tires???
Ok, this has become the epic frustrating moment in my life right now. I have an 08 TL-S, with 54k on the odo right now. The OEM Pilot's that the car originally came with finally gave up the ghost. I went into my local Discount Tire, and decided on a set of Yokohama YK520's. Although they were not a Z rated tire, I felt that these would be a good fit for that car, as I would never be traveling faster than 80-90 mph anyway. And they had a decent wear rating. I had these put on on Feb 12. I was back at the store on the 16th, to check the balance of the new tires, because there was a pretty bad vibration from 30 mph on up. Ok, tires are rebalanced and I'm back on the road. What do you know, the vibration is still there, but it is now to late to go back to the store because they are now closed for the day. So, the next day, I decide to go to a different location, and have the tires rebalanced. They tell me that instead of just doing a rebalance, they are going to put it onto a machine that is going to put some king of "load" on the tires to make sure that they are perfectly round. Bad news
... Three of the four tires are, out of round, and have to be replaced. Not a problem, because they have them in stock. They go ahead and replace all four tires, as defective. So, now I am back on the road, thinking everything is all good and dandy. I drive the car for almost two weeks, but that damn vibration is back, but not as bad. It only occurs now from 50 mph on up. So I take it back, and they tell me that they will replace them, again, but with some other comperable tire. The tire of choice now, is the Goodyear Eagle GT. Nice
We are now about two weeks into the Goodyear's, and the damn vibration is still there!!! This car is on its third set if new tires in a month's time.
... Three of the four tires are, out of round, and have to be replaced. Not a problem, because they have them in stock. They go ahead and replace all four tires, as defective. So, now I am back on the road, thinking everything is all good and dandy. I drive the car for almost two weeks, but that damn vibration is back, but not as bad. It only occurs now from 50 mph on up. So I take it back, and they tell me that they will replace them, again, but with some other comperable tire. The tire of choice now, is the Goodyear Eagle GT. Nice
Accidentally posted before I was done
Here's the rest:
When I took it back to Discount, they told me that "Some cars just have to have the same tire's on, that came OEM". Does this sound right to any of you? Or am I the only one with an 08 TL-S that has no choice, but to use an OEM tire? The alignment is right on. The balance supposedly is right on. What else is there to do? Oh, and these tires are on the stock wheels. Any ideas would really help.
Here's the rest:When I took it back to Discount, they told me that "Some cars just have to have the same tire's on, that came OEM". Does this sound right to any of you? Or am I the only one with an 08 TL-S that has no choice, but to use an OEM tire? The alignment is right on. The balance supposedly is right on. What else is there to do? Oh, and these tires are on the stock wheels. Any ideas would really help.
TL's are very difficult to balance perfectly. Have them done on a Hunter Road Force machine:
http://www.gsp9700.com/pub/search/findgsp9700.cfm
If it didn't vibrate before, they shouldn't vibrate after the installation of new tires.
Good luck
http://www.gsp9700.com/pub/search/findgsp9700.cfm
If it didn't vibrate before, they shouldn't vibrate after the installation of new tires.
Good luck
TL's are very difficult to balance perfectly. Have them done on a Hunter Road Force machine:
http://www.gsp9700.com/pub/search/findgsp9700.cfm
If it didn't vibrate before, they shouldn't vibrate after the installation of new tires.
Good luck
http://www.gsp9700.com/pub/search/findgsp9700.cfm
If it didn't vibrate before, they shouldn't vibrate after the installation of new tires.
Good luck
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Axles should be fine. There is no sign of leakage, and no issues have come up before.
The Eagle GT's were put on only after two sets of Yokohama's were tried. Same result with all three sets.
Yes. A link to this TSB would be very beneficial.
The Eagle GT's were put on only after two sets of Yokohama's were tried. Same result with all three sets.
Yes. A link to this TSB would be very beneficial.
when traveling above 50mph, put the car in "N" and coast. If it still vibrates, it's more than likely, your wheels, tires, axles, etc. The 5th gear drone/vibration should not occur when coasting out of gear.
Thanks for the recommendation. At this point, I'm willing to try just about anything.
I have an 04 TL and have had that same problem. I have had that vibration from the day I bought the car back in 08. I thought maybe the stock wheels were unbalanced. I got them rebalanced and still the vibration from 55mph on. I got a new set of rims and tires and still the same vibration. I read a post on here about 6 months ago with people having the same problem, they had suggested that is was the lower control arm bushings. I have not had the time to go down to the dealership and fight with them on replacing them. From the post I read, it was going to be a fight casue the bushings are considered a wear and tear part. I only have 60k on my car, it shouldn't be worn out by now! Also, a few guys on the post went and had the bushings replaced with some aftermarket bushings and said that it got rid of the vibration and made the car feel nice and tight in the steering. I haven't taken care of the problem myself but as soon as I do I will let you guys know.
I have an 04 TL and have had that same problem. I have had that vibration from the day I bought the car back in 08. I thought maybe the stock wheels were unbalanced. I got them rebalanced and still the vibration from 55mph on. I got a new set of rims and tires and still the same vibration. I read a post on here about 6 months ago with people having the same problem, they had suggested that is was the lower control arm bushings. I have not had the time to go down to the dealership and fight with them on replacing them. From the post I read, it was going to be a fight casue the bushings are considered a wear and tear part. I only have 60k on my car, it shouldn't be worn out by now! Also, a few guys on the post went and had the bushings replaced with some aftermarket bushings and said that it got rid of the vibration and made the car feel nice and tight in the steering. I haven't taken care of the problem myself but as soon as I do I will let you guys know.
Any vendors on here that sell these LCA bushings, or the Subframe Dynamic Damper Kit? I would rather purchase from a vendor here, than to go to a Dealer.
Tell me what you all think. Why would this problem arise after the OEM Pilot's were removed and replaced? The car never shook, or shimmied, ever, with the stock tires on there. Only after we purchased new tires did this problem show its face. Could this really be an engine damper, or the LCA bushings? This is just not making any sense to me. Or am I just putting to much thought into this, and really missing the real problem at hand
I have an 05 with the vibration/drone, and the dealer wont do anything about it. I too have considered buying the kit myself, but haven't gotten around to it. If i recall correctly, its about $80 for the kit.
Sometimes shop power wrenches are set for higher psi, so the lug nets are overtightened by the excess pressure, resulting in a vibration.
Loosen each of your wheel lugs, then tighten by hand/manual torque wrench to 80 lbs. each and see if that gets rid of your shimmy/vibration.
Sometimes shop power wrenches are set for higher psi, so the lug nets are overtightened by the excess pressure, resulting in a vibration.
Sometimes shop power wrenches are set for higher psi, so the lug nets are overtightened by the excess pressure, resulting in a vibration.
sorry to hear man. dont ever go discount tire ever again. from my exp. discount tire suck suck ass big time. ballance my $2k rims (+$400 custom paints) with no air preasure which is crew up the paint when reballance and lug nut not tight enought that one of them come loss/ missing when i check it. had to re tight all of them. wht i could thinks of our problems right now is take ur wheels to custom shop let them recheck ur wheels ballances and tighten ur wheels lugs properly. hope this helps. TL = no discount tire
sorry to hear man. dont ever go discount tire ever again. from my exp. discount tire suck suck ass big time. ballance my $2k rims (+$400 custom paints) with no air preasure which is crew up the paint when reballance and lug nut not tight enought that one of them come loss/ missing when i check it. had to re tight all of them. wht i could thinks of our problems right now is take ur wheels to custom shop let them recheck ur wheels ballances and tighten ur wheels lugs properly. hope this helps. TL = no discount tire
sorry to hear man. dont ever go discount tire ever again. from my exp. discount tire suck suck ass big time. ballance my $2k rims (+$400 custom paints) with no air preasure which is crew up the paint when reballance and lug nut not tight enought that one of them come loss/ missing when i check it. had to re tight all of them. wht i could thinks of our problems right now is take ur wheels to custom shop let them recheck ur wheels ballances and tighten ur wheels lugs properly. hope this helps. TL = no discount tire
Please, no text talk on a forum. Old guys like me just don't understand, I guess.
please hold on the thought of buying the part and do it yourself. i brought my car to the dealership and same thing happened. This problem only applies to 04 TLs but the tech tried to put the dampener on but he failed to do so because the design of 06 and later year are different than 04 ( said the acura tech). i'd would advise you guys to do some more research on this before buying the part and doing it urself.
Well, here's how it stands right now. I took the car to the Acura dealership, and left it there this morning so that they could help diagnose the problem. When they called me back this afternoon, all they could tell me was that it felt like the tires were out of balance. So I picked it back up, and went straight to Discount Tire, again. I told them what the dealership told me, and this would now be the second time that Discount balances the tires that are on the car. They are the Goodyear Eagle GT's. After the rebalance was done, I took it out for a quick drive, and what do you know, the vibration was still there. What a surprise. Frustrated, still, I went back to Discount to report the news of no change. As we talked, I asked them if they carried the OEM Michelin's. I was surprised when he said yes, they have them in stock. So I said what the hell, put those on, and hopefully it will alleviate the problem. I mean what else could I try. I already tried the dealership. Nothing that could be done there. So, let's try another set of tires, right? I mean, what could it hurt. 60 minutes later, the car was done, and now had on a nice set of Michelin shoes. Off I went for a short test drive. Viola!!!!!!! That did it. No more irritating vibration. So all I had to do was, not deviate from what the factory put on to begin with. Finally, I can drive again without there being an annoying vibration at 50+MPH.
To eveybody that offered suggestions, thank you.
Now all I have to do is lower it, install intake, TB spacer, J-Pipe, and exhaust. Or, maybe I'll just leave it stock, and drive the hell out of it
To eveybody that offered suggestions, thank you.
Now all I have to do is lower it, install intake, TB spacer, J-Pipe, and exhaust. Or, maybe I'll just leave it stock, and drive the hell out of it
Last edited by Sinistr; Mar 30, 2010 at 05:11 PM.
Please keep us updated Sinistr. Sounds like many of us share a similar symptom. I'm really curious to see if this holds up to the test of time. And just to be clear, did you put on the Michelin Pilot HX MXM4's?
Last edited by blueridger; Apr 7, 2010 at 10:10 PM.
The Michelin tires are a bit softer, and one BIG thing about them is that they don't need to be "high mounted"
High mounted refers to the amount of pressure needed to create a good seal between the tire and rim when it is first mounted. Continental tires for example need a High Mount Seal with nearly 70-90PSI to ensure a good bead. If this is not done with a High Mount Seal, the tire will have high and low spots on the bead and cause vibration. I had to have my Continental DW's mounted 3x to make sure they were mounted properly since the first 2 times there were high/low spots.
High mounted refers to the amount of pressure needed to create a good seal between the tire and rim when it is first mounted. Continental tires for example need a High Mount Seal with nearly 70-90PSI to ensure a good bead. If this is not done with a High Mount Seal, the tire will have high and low spots on the bead and cause vibration. I had to have my Continental DW's mounted 3x to make sure they were mounted properly since the first 2 times there were high/low spots.
The Michelin tires are a bit softer, and one BIG thing about them is that they don't need to be "high mounted"
High mounted refers to the amount of pressure needed to create a good seal between the tire and rim when it is first mounted. Continental tires for example need a High Mount Seal with nearly 70-90PSI to ensure a good bead. If this is not done with a High Mount Seal, the tire will have high and low spots on the bead and cause vibration. I had to have my Continental DW's mounted 3x to make sure they were mounted properly since the first 2 times there were high/low spots.
High mounted refers to the amount of pressure needed to create a good seal between the tire and rim when it is first mounted. Continental tires for example need a High Mount Seal with nearly 70-90PSI to ensure a good bead. If this is not done with a High Mount Seal, the tire will have high and low spots on the bead and cause vibration. I had to have my Continental DW's mounted 3x to make sure they were mounted properly since the first 2 times there were high/low spots.
Sorry, but this is a new one on me. Manufacturer's don't recommend using high air pressure when mounting tires, in fact, I know Yokohama has it imbedded on the sidewall that air pressure is not to exceed 40PSI when mounting on the wheel. In fact, if any tire does not seat with the 40 lbs, it should be deflated, rotated and tried again. That high pressure is old school and not to be used by today's standard. Also high/low spots would be quite hard to have after installation and with the car being driven, so chances are they dismounted the tire and rotated it to try and compensate for the vibration.
In most all cases, vibration is caused by improper balancing, and not the tires. There is no reason why the Michelin's would perform any better than any other if done properly. It's just operator error or the balancer that is out of calibration.
The Michelin tires are a bit softer, and one BIG thing about them is that they don't need to be "high mounted"
High mounted refers to the amount of pressure needed to create a good seal between the tire and rim when it is first mounted. Continental tires for example need a High Mount Seal with nearly 70-90PSI to ensure a good bead. If this is not done with a High Mount Seal, the tire will have high and low spots on the bead and cause vibration. I had to have my Continental DW's mounted 3x to make sure they were mounted properly since the first 2 times there were high/low spots.
High mounted refers to the amount of pressure needed to create a good seal between the tire and rim when it is first mounted. Continental tires for example need a High Mount Seal with nearly 70-90PSI to ensure a good bead. If this is not done with a High Mount Seal, the tire will have high and low spots on the bead and cause vibration. I had to have my Continental DW's mounted 3x to make sure they were mounted properly since the first 2 times there were high/low spots.
Sorry, but this is a new one on me. Manufacturer's don't recommend using high air pressure when mounting tires, in fact, I know Yokohama has it imbedded on the sidewall that air pressure is not to exceed 40PSI when mounting on the wheel. In fact, if any tire does not seat with the 40 lbs, it should be deflated, rotated and tried again. That high pressure is old school and not to be used by today's standard. Also high/low spots would be quite hard to have after installation and with the car being driven, so chances are they dismounted the tire and rotated it to try and compensate for the vibration.
In most all cases, vibration is caused by improper balancing, and not the tires. There is no reason why the Michelin's would perform any better than any other if done properly. It's just operator error or the balancer that is out of calibration.
In most all cases, vibration is caused by improper balancing, and not the tires. There is no reason why the Michelin's would perform any better than any other if done properly. It's just operator error or the balancer that is out of calibration.
Improper balancing. I guess that that could be blamed for all of my issues with the different sets of tires I tried. But could it really be the exact same problem for three sets of tires, two manufacturers, and different people working on it each time? I suppose that it very well could be, but would most definetely be strange. Each set of tires were even run through the Hunter Road Force machine and found to be fine. Whether or not there was an issue with the Yokohama's, or the Goodyear's, the Michelin's are riding very smooth. The car feels great again.
In the future if the tires won't balance properly, have the operator set it on the simpliest setting, which is the weights on the outside, just to give it a try and see if both read the same.
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