Those with RSB, ever taken it to the limit?
#1
Team Owner
Thread Starter
Those with RSB, ever taken it to the limit?
Just wondering because I did today at higher speeds and the car definately oversteers in the soft setting.
I've been playing around at lower speeds and tight corners and it seems to be very neutral.
I finally pushed it around a 60mph corner yesterday and the tail came out with my foot barely on the gas. Then on the way to work this morning I barely made a yellow light so I hit the left turn at 55mph, this time with my foot off the gas and the tail came out quite a bit, enough that I had to add 3/4 turn of steering correction.
I see most people with the bar in the firm setting and I'm wondering if any of you actually tried the bar in it's soft setting at the limits first. In my car, going to the firm setting would make it too tail happy and although it would corner flatter it would not corner as well.
I took my friend with the IS350 for a ride around some corners and he readily admitted defeat, very surprised at the way it corners.
I've been playing around at lower speeds and tight corners and it seems to be very neutral.
I finally pushed it around a 60mph corner yesterday and the tail came out with my foot barely on the gas. Then on the way to work this morning I barely made a yellow light so I hit the left turn at 55mph, this time with my foot off the gas and the tail came out quite a bit, enough that I had to add 3/4 turn of steering correction.
I see most people with the bar in the firm setting and I'm wondering if any of you actually tried the bar in it's soft setting at the limits first. In my car, going to the firm setting would make it too tail happy and although it would corner flatter it would not corner as well.
I took my friend with the IS350 for a ride around some corners and he readily admitted defeat, very surprised at the way it corners.
#2
Three Wheelin'
i did take it to the limit and ended up with about 10 000 dollars in damage . I had it on soft setting with a heavy sound system trunk which made it out to be as if it was on track setting. Now i don't take corners like that anymore, it really does get tail happy and it costs a lot.
#3
Team Owner
Thread Starter
Thanks for the response. That's pretty much just like mine. Subs in the trunk, soft setting, oversteer. Glad you were alright.
Anyone else?
Anyone else?
#4
Burning Brakes
i have mine on the stiff setting. the car does oversteer now, which i prefer because its safer than understeer, but it adjusts too quickly to really notice. i have taken it to the limit too at speeds over 60MPH.
#6
Team Owner
Thread Starter
I guess my point is if the car already oversteers in steady state cornering on the soft setting, you're hurting performance by going to the stiff setting.
I would like to hear from more people, particularly if anyone has experienced understeer from either setting.
I would like to hear from more people, particularly if anyone has experienced understeer from either setting.
#7
Team Owner
Thread Starter
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#9
Team Owner
Thread Starter
Are you talking about steady state cornering? This is important to me because I'm trying to get a feeling of how this bar affects different setups, especially those with subs in the trunk (weight).
We have two so far that oversteer on the soft setting. One that oversteers on the firm setting.
We have two so far that oversteer on the soft setting. One that oversteers on the firm setting.
#10
Racer
I have it in soft and when ever i take a off-ramp or get on the highway with a bend in it it and im going to fast the result is almost the same evertime, tires squealing and a 360 spin. I had a tacoma lifted with big tires and i swear the handling is not much different. And i drive my cars like i stole them!
#11
Team Owner
Thread Starter
I have it in soft and when ever i take a off-ramp or get on the highway with a bend in it it and im going to fast the result is almost the same evertime, tires squealing and a 360 spin. I had a tacoma lifted with big tires and i swear the handling is not much different. And i drive my cars like i stole them!
LOL. So that's another one for oversteer in the soft setting. Glad you haven't killed yourself.
Any other suspension mods or subs in the trunk?
Edit, nevermind just saw your signature.
#12
Racer
honestly i actually think my tacoma drove better, i would kill bmw's around corners, i had it lifted 3", running 32x11.50's......... you want to talk about riding on rails..... that was it i'll try and find a picture it got wrecked a year ago tho..
#14
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I've only had under-steer. Firm setting, not weight in the trunk.
BUT, that was with Stock MXM4 tires.
Since getting new tires (Mich Pilot Sport AS), which have a LOT more grip, I have not approached the traction limit, so don't know which end would lose traction first.
If/when, I find out, you'll be the first to know.
.
BUT, that was with Stock MXM4 tires.
Since getting new tires (Mich Pilot Sport AS), which have a LOT more grip, I have not approached the traction limit, so don't know which end would lose traction first.
If/when, I find out, you'll be the first to know.
.
#18
SlammedOnKonis
iTrader: (6)
Are you talking about steady state cornering? This is important to me because I'm trying to get a feeling of how this bar affects different setups, especially those with subs in the trunk (weight).
We have two so far that oversteer on the soft setting. One that oversteers on the firm setting.
We have two so far that oversteer on the soft setting. One that oversteers on the firm setting.
But shouldn't you also take into account other suspension mods as well? I have koni yellows close to the firmest settings and tein springs.
#19
I have Tein SS coils at 12F/10R dampening and a CT RSB and its a struggle to get this car to lose grip. Although i've noticed at around 100-110, there seems to be a lot more bodyroll than I remember taking highway curves. It might be the stockies/235/45 all season Falkens though, because I don't remember my car having such a floaty feeling with the 19's at high speed.
#21
Team Owner
Thread Starter
I don't know what you mean by steady state cornering, but whenever I take corners hard enough to lose traction it's in hilly/mountainous areas, as opposed to flat surfaces.
But shouldn't you also take into account other suspension mods as well? I have koni yellows close to the firmest settings and tein springs.
But shouldn't you also take into account other suspension mods as well? I have koni yellows close to the firmest settings and tein springs.
#23
too many tools in
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Great info guys.
One missing piece in this discussion is suspension alignment. At 3/4" suspension lowering, you're on the ragged edge of the alignment spec at the rear re: negative camber. This would tend to reduce oversteer tendencies, all other things being equal (which we know they're not ).
If you're really slammed, and get alignment back in spec via a camber kit at the rear end, then you have at your option a degree or so of negative camber. BUT you've got really rapid camber change (negative camber) when you hit a bump due to suspension geometry.
I think this explains the different results noted in the thread. That plus weight distribution. And then there's tire pressure. What little I know from my race car days reminds me that you can dial in the handling you want with a minor tweek on any of these variables.
Me? I want neutral to slight understeer. Not steady state (don't do much of that on public streets), but transient. Like when I swerve to miss some a-hole who cuts in front of me; or junk falling off trucks. RSB is on the buy list, but only as an experiment. "Terminal oversteer" on public roads is for boy racers that have never gone into a ditch ass-first. YMMV.
The Bro.
One missing piece in this discussion is suspension alignment. At 3/4" suspension lowering, you're on the ragged edge of the alignment spec at the rear re: negative camber. This would tend to reduce oversteer tendencies, all other things being equal (which we know they're not ).
If you're really slammed, and get alignment back in spec via a camber kit at the rear end, then you have at your option a degree or so of negative camber. BUT you've got really rapid camber change (negative camber) when you hit a bump due to suspension geometry.
I think this explains the different results noted in the thread. That plus weight distribution. And then there's tire pressure. What little I know from my race car days reminds me that you can dial in the handling you want with a minor tweek on any of these variables.
Me? I want neutral to slight understeer. Not steady state (don't do much of that on public streets), but transient. Like when I swerve to miss some a-hole who cuts in front of me; or junk falling off trucks. RSB is on the buy list, but only as an experiment. "Terminal oversteer" on public roads is for boy racers that have never gone into a ditch ass-first. YMMV.
The Bro.
#26
Team Owner
Thread Starter
Which swaybar do you have and which setting are you using (if using Progress)?
#27
Don't forget that if you are slowing down either on or off of the brake the rearend will be more loose. You will get what is called trailing throttle or braking oversteer. The closer your car is to neutral the more oversteer you will get under those conditions.
Tim
Tim
#28
Team Owner
Thread Starter
Good point and that's the reason I tried it while giving it a little throttle.
Even bone stock, if I purposely entered a corner with the front wheels pushing and manually shifting in a lower gear with the rpms at 5,000, I could abruptly lift throttle and make the tail hang out a little.
I had plans to try the bar in the firm setting but I believe that would hurt handling.
The good thing, and it was the opposite of what I expected but the transient response is good. Despite the tail happy nature of the car now, swerving left and right doesn't cause the rear to get crazy. It seems like it swings out after the car takes a set in a corner.
Keep the results coming. This is interesting info.
Even bone stock, if I purposely entered a corner with the front wheels pushing and manually shifting in a lower gear with the rpms at 5,000, I could abruptly lift throttle and make the tail hang out a little.
I had plans to try the bar in the firm setting but I believe that would hurt handling.
The good thing, and it was the opposite of what I expected but the transient response is good. Despite the tail happy nature of the car now, swerving left and right doesn't cause the rear to get crazy. It seems like it swings out after the car takes a set in a corner.
Keep the results coming. This is interesting info.
#29
Team Owner
Thread Starter
Great info guys.
One missing piece in this discussion is suspension alignment. At 3/4" suspension lowering, you're on the ragged edge of the alignment spec at the rear re: negative camber. This would tend to reduce oversteer tendencies, all other things being equal (which we know they're not ).
If you're really slammed, and get alignment back in spec via a camber kit at the rear end, then you have at your option a degree or so of negative camber. BUT you've got really rapid camber change (negative camber) when you hit a bump due to suspension geometry.
I think this explains the different results noted in the thread. That plus weight distribution. And then there's tire pressure. What little I know from my race car days reminds me that you can dial in the handling you want with a minor tweek on any of these variables.
Me? I want neutral to slight understeer. Not steady state (don't do much of that on public streets), but transient. Like when I swerve to miss some a-hole who cuts in front of me; or junk falling off trucks. RSB is on the buy list, but only as an experiment. "Terminal oversteer" on public roads is for boy racers that have never gone into a ditch ass-first. YMMV.
The Bro.
One missing piece in this discussion is suspension alignment. At 3/4" suspension lowering, you're on the ragged edge of the alignment spec at the rear re: negative camber. This would tend to reduce oversteer tendencies, all other things being equal (which we know they're not ).
If you're really slammed, and get alignment back in spec via a camber kit at the rear end, then you have at your option a degree or so of negative camber. BUT you've got really rapid camber change (negative camber) when you hit a bump due to suspension geometry.
I think this explains the different results noted in the thread. That plus weight distribution. And then there's tire pressure. What little I know from my race car days reminds me that you can dial in the handling you want with a minor tweek on any of these variables.
Me? I want neutral to slight understeer. Not steady state (don't do much of that on public streets), but transient. Like when I swerve to miss some a-hole who cuts in front of me; or junk falling off trucks. RSB is on the buy list, but only as an experiment. "Terminal oversteer" on public roads is for boy racers that have never gone into a ditch ass-first. YMMV.
The Bro.
Geometry gets all out of whack and when you really push it you're on the bumpstops and the roll stiffness goes infinate and causes serious problems.
#30
Team Owner
Thread Starter
It may be a good idea to list if you have the manual or auto since they have different size front swaybars. The manual should be less tailhappy on the same setting.
#31
Burning Brakes
even if both cars were stock (with respect to the RSB), wouldnt the Type S handle differently?
im actually surprised from the responses because whenever i oversteer, the car corrects itself almost instantly as opposed to understeer.
#32
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