Steering responsiveness
#1
Steering responsiveness
What's up guys. First of all I want to say I love this site, you guys have answered my questions before I could even ask them, which is why it took me so long to register. Now down to business.
I have a '05 AT TL with about 83k. I recently upgraded to a koni yellow/eibach suspension. I've seen all the praise given to the konis and tried them out. For some reason I can't figure out why my car isnt handling how I think it should. It's just not tight, I get some vibration at speed and an annoying hum from my right side. I don't feel confident in corners.
I changed my rear bearings to Moogs and am going to change the front as well. I am also going to purchase a progress rsb with moog endlinks. I was thinking it could be bushings but I'd rather replace the part then the bushing. Before I go off and spend all this money I need some help figuring out if it's the right part. Thanks guys.
I have a '05 AT TL with about 83k. I recently upgraded to a koni yellow/eibach suspension. I've seen all the praise given to the konis and tried them out. For some reason I can't figure out why my car isnt handling how I think it should. It's just not tight, I get some vibration at speed and an annoying hum from my right side. I don't feel confident in corners.
I changed my rear bearings to Moogs and am going to change the front as well. I am also going to purchase a progress rsb with moog endlinks. I was thinking it could be bushings but I'd rather replace the part then the bushing. Before I go off and spend all this money I need some help figuring out if it's the right part. Thanks guys.
#3
It's definitely installed correctly. I feel the shocks working fine under me. I think the vibration could be one of my front bearings or my rotors. I dont want to change my rotors until winter passes though. My steering tightness and responsiveness left and right is what's getting at me the most.
#4
how are the front control arm bushings? Rear suspension bushings?
Did you get an alignment after the install? Once you drop the car or change suspension parts, the geometry changes! A small change in toe or camber can have a large impact on how the car feels.
If it's feeling twitchy and unsettled, your toe probably is out. You'll also need a camber kit to correct the negative camber for the rear.
Did you get an alignment after the install? Once you drop the car or change suspension parts, the geometry changes! A small change in toe or camber can have a large impact on how the car feels.
If it's feeling twitchy and unsettled, your toe probably is out. You'll also need a camber kit to correct the negative camber for the rear.
#5
how are the front control arm bushings? Rear suspension bushings?
Did you get an alignment after the install? Once you drop the car or change suspension parts, the geometry changes! A small change in toe or camber can have a large impact on how the car feels.
If it's feeling twitchy and unsettled, your toe probably is out. You'll also need a camber kit to correct the negative camber for the rear.
Did you get an alignment after the install? Once you drop the car or change suspension parts, the geometry changes! A small change in toe or camber can have a large impact on how the car feels.
If it's feeling twitchy and unsettled, your toe probably is out. You'll also need a camber kit to correct the negative camber for the rear.
#6
I did get an alignment after the drop but I still have slight negative camber in the rear. Figured I'd get a camber kit when I get new rims and tires in the spring. And as for the bushings i'm pretty sure my control arms aren't doing too well. Any suggestions on what brands to buy? For the control arms and canber kit.
Some folks buy the complete arm and replace that, which is fine but more work and more expensive in my opinion.
No clue on the camber kit, I think there's a thread on here on which one is best. Did the shop give you a printout and tell you what the toe was?
#7
You can buy the TL-S bushings for the front control arms (I believe $25 each) and get them pressed into your control arms. I did mine in my garage, about 3 hours total to do both sides.
Some folks buy the complete arm and replace that, which is fine but more work and more expensive in my opinion.
No clue on the camber kit, I think there's a thread on here on which one is best. Did the shop give you a printout and tell you what the toe was?
Some folks buy the complete arm and replace that, which is fine but more work and more expensive in my opinion.
No clue on the camber kit, I think there's a thread on here on which one is best. Did the shop give you a printout and tell you what the toe was?
Trending Topics
#8
Did you get the bushings pressed out by a shop? I was thinking an Ingalls camber kit but my drop was only an inch with the eibachs so the toe isnt crazy. Dammit I shouldve asked for a printout though. Hows the ride on type s bushings? Noticably better or basically stock?
There's a whole thread in problems & fixes on it with tons of DIY's and youtube videos.
#10
Spc for rear camber kit. It will be one arm (up top) per side (rear). It will have a ball joint on one end. Ingalls doesn't have the greatest reviews (in the past). I used them for 3yrs, and the bushings became distorted, causing the Allignment to go out (had multiple alignments over the 3yrs,$$$$ wasted, to only find out the problem!), even after getting aligned. Save yourself the headache & cost, buy the SPC upper camber arm, and get aligned, and be done.
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
Groovemaster
Audio, Video, Electronics & Navigation
5
01-12-2016 08:18 PM
yingers
3G TL (2004-2008)
11
01-12-2016 08:40 AM