Slicks... 265/45/17 on OEM wheels. opinions please
03-21-2011, 12:52 PM
#2
Team Owner
Are they slicks or drag radials? At that price I would pick them up regardless. They will be a little tall but that's a good thing for traction, bad for mph. Slicks tend to grow unlike drag radials. Not sure if you have to worry about this or not at 100mph.
03-21-2011, 12:58 PM
#4
Team Owner
With an 8" rim you'll be fine. It's important to find out if they're "ET Streets" or Drag radials. One is a very street friendly tire and one will stick like glue but the car will wonder all over the road and you won't be able to do much freeway driving due to heat buildup. Some people use tubes in the ET Streets also. Most tires like that won't hold air without tubes although I've never had an issue when they're kept aired up to reasonable levels.
03-21-2011, 12:59 PM
#5
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Why not go for a lighter set of wheels? From what I hear, stock wheels are pretty heavy, and you can find something that alleviates your width worries. Maybe some used RSX-S wheels?
03-21-2011, 01:03 PM
#6
With an 8" rim you'll be fine. It's important to find out if they're "ET Streets" or Drag radials. One is a very street friendly tire and one will stick like glue but the car will wonder all over the road and you won't be able to do much freeway driving due to heat buildup. Some people use tubes in the ET Streets also. Most tires like that won't hold air without tubes although I've never had an issue when they're kept aired up to reasonable levels.
ill make sure they are ET streets however. it would be nice to just drive to the track with them on the car.
Aman: this is a spur of the moment deal that came up. my original intent was to run my hankooks at the track because they are VERY grippy. but a set of slicks for 70 bucks cant be beat.
03-21-2011, 07:58 PM
#7
Team Owner
If the track doesn't involve too much freeway driving you can drive them there. I always drove mine to the track. I used Hoosier Quick Time Pros which is the Hoosier equivalent of the MT ET Street. You would want to keep it in the slow lane at 55mph if possible.
Drag radials can be used full time, no need to switch and you can take them on long distance trips if you choose to.
Even if they're drag radials they will hook better than the best road tire even an "R" compound. I'll save it for another thread but you know the drag radials will require a small burnout and the slicks will need even more heat. Usually I just spin drag radials until I see smoke and back off. The slicks I would get well into 3rd gear during the burnout.
Drag radials can be used full time, no need to switch and you can take them on long distance trips if you choose to.
Even if they're drag radials they will hook better than the best road tire even an "R" compound. I'll save it for another thread but you know the drag radials will require a small burnout and the slicks will need even more heat. Usually I just spin drag radials until I see smoke and back off. The slicks I would get well into 3rd gear during the burnout.
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03-21-2011, 08:30 PM
#8
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265 on stock 17" has been done before.
Search spiritman threads - something like "They said it couldn't be done"
Search spiritman threads - something like "They said it couldn't be done"
03-21-2011, 08:39 PM
#9
as far as fitting 265's on a 2G TL; very easy, especially if you don't mind a possibly larger turning radius (can't turn the wheel as much possibly)
and when i had the 245's on my car (but a 245-40r18 though), with a 45 offset, there was still room for the front tires to go outwards, to be "flush" with the fender
then to go inwards, it was very close, a bad ball joint (too much play) did allow it to rub at full lock, but even then the rubbing was only like the size of a penny though, so there was also room for the tires to go inward also (as said kinda, how much, depends how much much turning radius you are willing to sacrifice at the track...)
and when i had the 245's on my car (but a 245-40r18 though), with a 45 offset, there was still room for the front tires to go outwards, to be "flush" with the fender
then to go inwards, it was very close, a bad ball joint (too much play) did allow it to rub at full lock, but even then the rubbing was only like the size of a penny though, so there was also room for the tires to go inward also (as said kinda, how much, depends how much much turning radius you are willing to sacrifice at the track...)
03-22-2011, 12:17 AM
#10
Safety Car
Are we talking about slicks with absolutely no thread grooves? If so, make sure that the roads stay dry.
I drove my 1985 Iroc-z on the street with pure drag slicks on the rear wheels with no grooves. I just did this on Saturday nights (midnight - 3 AM) for the street racing get-togethers.
I never got caught in the rain, but I did go over patches of road that were wet from grass sprinklers. The instant that those rear slicks touched that wet pavement, the rear end instantly hydroplaned until I got back to dry pavement. This was 30-35 MPH stuff and it still hydroplaned like a jet ski.
I drove my 1985 Iroc-z on the street with pure drag slicks on the rear wheels with no grooves. I just did this on Saturday nights (midnight - 3 AM) for the street racing get-togethers.
I never got caught in the rain, but I did go over patches of road that were wet from grass sprinklers. The instant that those rear slicks touched that wet pavement, the rear end instantly hydroplaned until I got back to dry pavement. This was 30-35 MPH stuff and it still hydroplaned like a jet ski.
03-22-2011, 12:20 AM
#11
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I think he's putting them on 3G OEM wheels. Those were the last wheels I saw on his car, and it is in the 3G section 
03-22-2011, 01:08 PM
#13
Team Owner
Inaccurate is very right though. The legal ones have a line or two cut in them but it's just to satisfy the DOT rules. I've always said if you run over spit you'll spin out. Mine were DOT legal wrinkle wall slicks but like I said the only difference is two lines cut down the center to make them legal, they're no better than the non legal ones in the wet.
MT Drag radial:
ET Street. Legal but not recommended on the street.
And what I run:
03-23-2011, 04:55 PM
#14
So I'm at the spot guys and I'm looking through the window waiting on the guy and they are smooth all over with two lines cut down the center of them. They look like Hoosiers but I can't see the sidewall.
I hope one of u guys are reading this
I hope one of u guys are reading this
03-23-2011, 05:09 PM
#15
Team Owner
)
let alone also heat cycling them, the grooves are there just to satisfy DOT legal requirements, not to make them street safe (especially in rain)
03-23-2011, 05:54 PM
#21
ok. so ill be driving my 16's to the track and swapping these out when i get there. man im excited!
just a few weeks ago i bought my first set of brand new tires and now i bought my first set of drag tires.
id like to thank everyone who participated in this thread.
just a few weeks ago i bought my first set of brand new tires and now i bought my first set of drag tires.
id like to thank everyone who participated in this thread.
03-23-2011, 06:54 PM
#26
wipe them off with your hands, to get alot of the shit off, and then do a VERY nice burnout 
something kinda like this.... (and it is my car btw, the tires where bald so i did not care about them, also they are the 245's i had on there)
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VVlvDnRyN_Y
something kinda like this.... (and it is my car btw, the tires where bald so i did not care about them, also they are the 245's i had on there)
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VVlvDnRyN_Y
03-23-2011, 08:05 PM
#28
Team Owner
Just to clarify, those aren't drag tires, they're road course tires. They will hook better than any normal street tire but not as good as a drag radial and definitely not as good as a DOT slick.
They have a very stiff sidewall so heat buildup in the sidewall is not an issue. In dry weather you can drive them as you normally would. They will be very loud. If your track is 30 minutes or less away there would be no problems driving them to the track.
Don't do a big burnout on them, they're not drag tires. Spin them until there's a little smoke. A huge burnout can damage them.
They have a very stiff sidewall so heat buildup in the sidewall is not an issue. In dry weather you can drive them as you normally would. They will be very loud. If your track is 30 minutes or less away there would be no problems driving them to the track.
Don't do a big burnout on them, they're not drag tires. Spin them until there's a little smoke. A huge burnout can damage them.
03-23-2011, 08:39 PM
#30
Team Owner
For that price, I would have bought them.
The compound will be somewhat similar to drag radials but the sidewall is going to be much stiffer. You will like the traction once you try them out. For example, I'm always saying how good my NT05 tires are. Those Hoosiers will kill them in traction. For 300whp, they will probably work very well and you will be less likely to snap an axle than you would on drag radials.
The compound will be somewhat similar to drag radials but the sidewall is going to be much stiffer. You will like the traction once you try them out. For example, I'm always saying how good my NT05 tires are. Those Hoosiers will kill them in traction. For 300whp, they will probably work very well and you will be less likely to snap an axle than you would on drag radials.
03-23-2011, 08:46 PM
#31
Team Owner
You could drive them to the track that far but until they get up to operating temp, they're going to wear a little quicker.
I'm trying to give neutral advice. Keep in mind I drive my car around on wrinkle wall slicks almost full time now. The rear end sways all over the place, they wear very quickly, you can't take them on the freeway and if you do you have to keep them away from a divider because they can actually climb up the divider and flip the car. To me, the trade off is worth it. There are some downsides to your tires but if it were me I would give them a try on the street (on dry days) and see if you can put up with them. The first time you out launch an IS350 you might not want to take them off.
I'm trying to give neutral advice. Keep in mind I drive my car around on wrinkle wall slicks almost full time now. The rear end sways all over the place, they wear very quickly, you can't take them on the freeway and if you do you have to keep them away from a divider because they can actually climb up the divider and flip the car. To me, the trade off is worth it. There are some downsides to your tires but if it were me I would give them a try on the street (on dry days) and see if you can put up with them. The first time you out launch an IS350 you might not want to take them off.
03-23-2011, 08:55 PM
#32
sounds good but im reading that the stiff sidewall wont allow for good launching.
im wondering if my hankook evo v12's will out launch these. how does the tread on the hoosiers look? will i be able to drive them 1.5 hours to the track then do 6+ runs and then drive home? i dont think they will last that long...
thanks for the tips
im wondering if my hankook evo v12's will out launch these. how does the tread on the hoosiers look? will i be able to drive them 1.5 hours to the track then do 6+ runs and then drive home? i dont think they will last that long...
thanks for the tips
03-23-2011, 09:03 PM
#33
Team Owner
The sidewall is not as big of a disadvantage on a FWD car as a RWD car. They will definitely out hook your Hankooks, no doubt about it unless they were heat cycled to death.
Tread is fine to do the drive both ways and a few races. Just make sure your alignment is ok. You must heat them up a little so factor in a small burnout. You'll go in the water box, get them spinning, let it roll and as you get to the edge of the water and they barely start grabbing, make sure the throttle is to the floor and be ready to push the clutch in to keep from killing the engine when they grab. They should have enough traction to kill the engine if you don't push the clutch in time.
One thing I'm getting at is you're going to have to figure out how much heat they like. Spinning until you see a little smoke and backing off is a good place to start. It will seem too short but those tires don't require much of a burnout. You can do a longer burnout each time until traction starts getting worse.
Tread is fine to do the drive both ways and a few races. Just make sure your alignment is ok. You must heat them up a little so factor in a small burnout. You'll go in the water box, get them spinning, let it roll and as you get to the edge of the water and they barely start grabbing, make sure the throttle is to the floor and be ready to push the clutch in to keep from killing the engine when they grab. They should have enough traction to kill the engine if you don't push the clutch in time.
One thing I'm getting at is you're going to have to figure out how much heat they like. Spinning until you see a little smoke and backing off is a good place to start. It will seem too short but those tires don't require much of a burnout. You can do a longer burnout each time until traction starts getting worse.
03-23-2011, 09:08 PM
#34
alright. im looking at the tires and it looks like one is at 2/32nds and the other is at 1/32nd.
the compound is still soft-ish since i can poke it with my nail and they leave a mark. im looking up the date of the tires.
ill definitely be riding on my 16's to the track to preserve these.
the compound is still soft-ish since i can poke it with my nail and they leave a mark. im looking up the date of the tires.
ill definitely be riding on my 16's to the track to preserve these.
03-23-2011, 09:15 PM
#35
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[quote im wondering if my hankook evo v12's will out launch these. how does the tread on the hoosiers look? will i be able to drive them 1.5 hours to the track then do 6+ runs and then drive home? i dont think they will last that long... [/quote]
did you ever use your hankook evo v12's at the track before?
did you ever use your hankook evo v12's at the track before?
03-23-2011, 09:23 PM
#36
i didnt do any burnouts when i last went so im a bit confused. should i do this IN the water puddle or right after it?
should i hold the brake or use the parking brake?
edit: nvm. doing it in the water would make a fucking messs
should i hold the brake or use the parking brake?
edit: nvm. doing it in the water would make a fucking messs
Last edited by phee; 03-23-2011 at 09:28 PM.
03-23-2011, 09:24 PM
#37
no. i was on KDW's before and pulled 2.3 60' times with them bouncing all over the place. (look up phee128 on youtube)
i know these hankooks grip way better than the kdw's but they still break loose on shifts.
03-23-2011, 09:38 PM
#38
Team Owner
That will get you started. You'll probably come up with your own thing such as releasing the e-brake sooner or later or not all the way at once.
Some tracks don't have a real puddle, just a guy spraying the burnout area to keep it damp.
If you can get a fair number of runs in at your track, you might try the first run without a burnout just to compare. Next run, spin the tires for a second or two without the brake, just spin until it grabs. That's still way better than nothing. Once you're comfortable with that you can try holding the car with the e-brake for a longer burnout if necessary.
, cause once warmed up some, the water on the tread basically just evaporates away