Skunk 2 pro series camber issue
03-16-2013, 08:26 PM
#1
Skunk 2 pro series camber issue
So I maxed out my camber kit before I took my car in for an alignment and can't get more then -1.5 on my car I thought with the skunk 2 arm u could get -3.. i was wanting more -camber so i could tuck tire more and not worry about rubbing issues.. can someone please clear this up cause my buddy has a tl that he is gettin -2 .5 on stock arms on his 18x9.5
Sorry if this topic has already been brought up..
My setup:
Varrstoen v3 19x9.5 +22 on 225/35/19
Sorry if this topic has already been brought up..
My setup:
Varrstoen v3 19x9.5 +22 on 225/35/19
Last edited by pitorican; 03-16-2013 at 08:33 PM. Reason: Typo
03-16-2013, 08:52 PM
#3
Registered Member
iTrader: (8)
Ok here we go. I talked to Marcus about this from Heeltoe. He informed me that with the skunk2 kit you can only get -1.2 degrees extra on top of what you get naturally from lowering.
This is why you need the hellaflush mod done if you are looking to add more negative camber with this kit.
Here is my experience since I recently had these installed as well. My camber up front was at -1.8 before install. After install with the ball joint set to max negative camber AND lowering the car .5" more which should have added more negative camber, my front driver side was still -1.8 and the passenger front was at -2.3. Luckily I wanted to add positive camber to my setup so this was not an issue for me.
Now since my camber was basically the same AFTER the install AND lowering the car more, it leads me to believe that the skunk2 arms with the camber set fully negative puts the ball joint basically in the same exact spot as the ball joint on the stock arms.
So basically if you want more negative camber these arms are going to have to come off and you can either mod them yourself for more camber, sell them and then buy the one's that have the hellaflush mod done to them, or sell them and buy a regular ball joint style kits like the ingalls kit. Only problem with the ingalls kit is when you are pretty low the nut on the top of the ball joint makes it like an inch taller so when you hit bumps you are more likely to hit the nut on the shock tower. The way to avoid that is to cut a hole in the shock tower where the nut hits like Sharksbreath and Rockstar have done.
And I better get thanked for this post because that was a lot to type, lol!!
This is why you need the hellaflush mod done if you are looking to add more negative camber with this kit.
Here is my experience since I recently had these installed as well. My camber up front was at -1.8 before install. After install with the ball joint set to max negative camber AND lowering the car .5" more which should have added more negative camber, my front driver side was still -1.8 and the passenger front was at -2.3. Luckily I wanted to add positive camber to my setup so this was not an issue for me.
Now since my camber was basically the same AFTER the install AND lowering the car more, it leads me to believe that the skunk2 arms with the camber set fully negative puts the ball joint basically in the same exact spot as the ball joint on the stock arms.
So basically if you want more negative camber these arms are going to have to come off and you can either mod them yourself for more camber, sell them and then buy the one's that have the hellaflush mod done to them, or sell them and buy a regular ball joint style kits like the ingalls kit. Only problem with the ingalls kit is when you are pretty low the nut on the top of the ball joint makes it like an inch taller so when you hit bumps you are more likely to hit the nut on the shock tower. The way to avoid that is to cut a hole in the shock tower where the nut hits like Sharksbreath and Rockstar have done.
And I better get thanked for this post because that was a lot to type, lol!!
03-16-2013, 09:24 PM
#4
Well looks like ill be doing some cutting real soon... Lol oh well
Here is a like if anyone else needs it..
http://www.acura-cl.com/forums/showthread.php?t=863334
Here is a like if anyone else needs it..
http://www.acura-cl.com/forums/showthread.php?t=863334
03-16-2013, 09:43 PM
#5
Ok here we go. I talked to Marcus about this from Heeltoe. He informed me that with the skunk2 kit you can only get -1.2 degrees extra on top of what you get naturally from lowering.
This is why you need the hellaflush mod done if you are looking to add more negative camber with this kit.
Here is my experience since I recently had these installed as well. My camber up front was at -1.8 before install. After install with the ball joint set to max negative camber AND lowering the car .5" more which should have added more negative camber, my front driver side was still -1.8 and the passenger front was at -2.3. Luckily I wanted to add positive camber to my setup so this was not an issue for me.
Now since my camber was basically the same AFTER the install AND lowering the car more, it leads me to believe that the skunk2 arms with the camber set fully negative puts the ball joint basically in the same exact spot as the ball joint on the stock arms.
So basically if you want more negative camber these arms are going to have to come off and you can either mod them yourself for more camber, sell them and then buy the one's that have the hellaflush mod done to them, or sell them and buy a regular ball joint style kits like the ingalls kit. Only problem with the ingalls kit is when you are pretty low the nut on the top of the ball joint makes it like an inch taller so when you hit bumps you are more likely to hit the nut on the shock tower. The way to avoid that is to cut a hole in the shock tower where the nut hits like Sharksbreath and Rockstar have done.
And I better get thanked for this post because that was a lot to type, lol!!
This is why you need the hellaflush mod done if you are looking to add more negative camber with this kit.
Here is my experience since I recently had these installed as well. My camber up front was at -1.8 before install. After install with the ball joint set to max negative camber AND lowering the car .5" more which should have added more negative camber, my front driver side was still -1.8 and the passenger front was at -2.3. Luckily I wanted to add positive camber to my setup so this was not an issue for me.
Now since my camber was basically the same AFTER the install AND lowering the car more, it leads me to believe that the skunk2 arms with the camber set fully negative puts the ball joint basically in the same exact spot as the ball joint on the stock arms.
So basically if you want more negative camber these arms are going to have to come off and you can either mod them yourself for more camber, sell them and then buy the one's that have the hellaflush mod done to them, or sell them and buy a regular ball joint style kits like the ingalls kit. Only problem with the ingalls kit is when you are pretty low the nut on the top of the ball joint makes it like an inch taller so when you hit bumps you are more likely to hit the nut on the shock tower. The way to avoid that is to cut a hole in the shock tower where the nut hits like Sharksbreath and Rockstar have done.
And I better get thanked for this post because that was a lot to type, lol!!
03-16-2013, 09:48 PM
#6
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The Machine (03-17-2013)
03-17-2013, 09:01 PM
#12
Registered Member
iTrader: (8)
Yeah man it looks sweet! Nice clean cut. Guessing you used a dremel to do the cutting? Do you have a before cutting and after cutting specs on the alignment?
Last edited by The Machine; 03-17-2013 at 09:06 PM.
03-17-2013, 09:02 PM
#13
2014 Jeep SRT
Very nice. What did you use to cut the arms? Also, how did you know how much to cut?
03-17-2013, 09:09 PM
#14
Ill post pics of what I used in just a sec and I eyeballed it i bolted the top plate in and adjusted it back so I could keep that same shape and went from there.. I took about an inch out maybe a lil less honestly... This link is a great reference
http://www.acura-cl.com/forums/showthread.php?t=863334
http://www.acura-cl.com/forums/showthread.php?t=863334
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pitorican (03-17-2013)
03-17-2013, 09:19 PM
#16
If u need one let me know I have access to more if u decide u wanna do this mod.. I used a power drill and air drill.. The power drill was just taking to long but works great when cleaning it up before the final step of using an rounded hand file..
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05_NBP_TL (03-17-2013)
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pitorican (03-17-2013)
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pitorican (03-18-2013)
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pitorican (03-18-2013)
03-19-2013, 07:31 AM
#24
blah!
Sorry for the noob question. Dont our cars get around 2 degrees of camber naturally when dropped flush?
What do you guys mean by flipping the ball joint?
Trying to do research on how to deal with the front camber after I lower it.
What do you guys mean by flipping the ball joint?
Trying to do research on how to deal with the front camber after I lower it.
03-19-2013, 08:10 AM
#25
well yes they do normally get that much -camber on factory uca.. due to the wheels and the offset i had a lil bit of poke so i wanted to fix that issue so i bought skunk2 arms that are suppose to get-3 degrees with the hope that the extra -camber would get rid of that poke issue.. well it didnt so i had to modify them to get rid of the poking issue.. ill post picks shortly of flipping the ball joint
Last edited by pitorican; 03-19-2013 at 08:12 AM.
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GetLikeMe_TypeS (04-30-2013)
03-19-2013, 01:04 PM
#27
2014 Jeep SRT
Looks like I'm going to Lowes to get a new drill bit and some files...thanks for the writeup and pics. Seems pretty simple.
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ebelp (03-19-2013)
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pitorican (03-19-2013)
03-19-2013, 07:41 PM
#32
2014 Jeep SRT
Awesome! But how do you know it was at -3.6 before? The sheet says the before specs were -2.96 and -2.94...
03-19-2013, 08:14 PM
#33
That what it was when we first set it up on the rack then we lifted the car and adjusted the toe and camber and alignment and reset the alignment machine cause it was acting wierd after we lower the car back on the machine and wouldn't pick up the rear sensors...it did it on my last alignment also
Last edited by pitorican; 03-19-2013 at 08:16 PM.
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pitorican (03-20-2013)
04-30-2013, 01:51 AM
#35
Intermediate
well yes they do normally get that much -camber on factory uca.. due to the wheels and the offset i had a lil bit of poke so i wanted to fix that issue so i bought skunk2 arms that are suppose to get-3 degrees with the hope that the extra -camber would get rid of that poke issue.. well it didnt so i had to modify them to get rid of the poking issue.. ill post picks shortly of flipping the ball joint
04-30-2013, 07:30 AM
#36
HE>i
iTrader: (1)
^Not really a waste. I have them and I wanted to make sure my camber was the same on both sides. Yes, natural camber works for most people, but I am OCD about things so I wanted the skunk2 kit. I got about -2.3 degrees camber without modifying the arms. It was enough to make my setup flush
07-15-2013, 08:36 AM
#38
Not to bump up a slightly older thread....I have two main questions:
By flipping the ball joint how much more negative camber would you get on a non modified skunk2 front camber arm roughly? Is it safe to do this over time or even do just on one side?
I also was wondering on my car for some reason after installing the skunk 2 front camber arms I can get on my passengers side close to -2.5 roughly, where as on my drivers side I could only get close to -1, is there a reason for this or something I am missing here? (I have two non modified skunk2 front control arms and I was at a shop getting the alignment done at the time of adjustment)
Thanks ahead of time.
By flipping the ball joint how much more negative camber would you get on a non modified skunk2 front camber arm roughly? Is it safe to do this over time or even do just on one side?
I also was wondering on my car for some reason after installing the skunk 2 front camber arms I can get on my passengers side close to -2.5 roughly, where as on my drivers side I could only get close to -1, is there a reason for this or something I am missing here? (I have two non modified skunk2 front control arms and I was at a shop getting the alignment done at the time of adjustment)
Thanks ahead of time.
Last edited by ShadowAcura; 07-15-2013 at 08:39 AM.
07-15-2013, 02:13 PM
#39
2014 Jeep SRT
Not to bump up a slightly older thread....I have two main questions:
By flipping the ball joint how much more negative camber would you get on a non modified skunk2 front camber arm roughly? Is it safe to do this over time or even do just on one side?
I also was wondering on my car for some reason after installing the skunk 2 front camber arms I can get on my passengers side close to -2.5 roughly, where as on my drivers side I could only get close to -1, is there a reason for this or something I am missing here? (I have two non modified skunk2 front control arms and I was at a shop getting the alignment done at the time of adjustment)
Thanks ahead of time.
By flipping the ball joint how much more negative camber would you get on a non modified skunk2 front camber arm roughly? Is it safe to do this over time or even do just on one side?
I also was wondering on my car for some reason after installing the skunk 2 front camber arms I can get on my passengers side close to -2.5 roughly, where as on my drivers side I could only get close to -1, is there a reason for this or something I am missing here? (I have two non modified skunk2 front control arms and I was at a shop getting the alignment done at the time of adjustment)
Thanks ahead of time.
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