Rotora BBK Install
#1
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Rotora BBK Install
According to the Rotora BBK install it states that the dust shield must be removed completely for a proper install. Does anyone have any insight into why this is necessary. The rotors and calipers seem to fit well in the presence of the dust shield with as much as 1/2" clearance. Is this really necessary. I called Rotora and got the worst technical support ever. I'm not even sure the guy knew what I was asking. It only took 3 messages to get him to call in first place. Any thoughts would be appreciated. Thanks
#3
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Originally Posted by rodneyc77
<|========= Did not even look at the instructions.... but I did torque the bracket bolts to OEM specs... I think it was 40lbs-ft... I did not remove the dust shield...
Awesome thanks. Do you like'em? Noise,dust?
#4
Retired!!! ON TOP!!!
iTrader: (1)
there was alot of dust at first.... but now they are nicely broken in... noise... hummm... I do hear air dissipation when I lightly press the brake pedal while in a confined area (like a very narrow road between barrier or parked cars)... I don't know if it's the BBK or the Rotora drilled & slotted rotor in the rear...
I LOVE THEM... best MOD I've done to the TL... IMHO
I LOVE THEM... best MOD I've done to the TL... IMHO
#5
Assuming the BBK rotors are cross drilled, removal of the dust shield will allow air to actually move thru the rotor and cool it as designed. With it in place the air has no flow.
The idea behind it is to bring air in the holes and out the center outer edge vents- thats how they cool brake rotors
Check any race car with that set-up. hole with hose in backing plate or no plate at all.
The idea behind it is to bring air in the holes and out the center outer edge vents- thats how they cool brake rotors
Check any race car with that set-up. hole with hose in backing plate or no plate at all.
#6
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Originally Posted by 01tl4tl
Assuming the BBK rotors are cross drilled, removal of the dust shield will allow air to actually move thru the rotor and cool it as designed. With it in place the air has no flow.
The idea behind it is to bring air in the holes and out the center outer edge vents- thats how they cool brake rotors
Check any race car with that set-up. hole with hose in backing plate or no plate at all.
The idea behind it is to bring air in the holes and out the center outer edge vents- thats how they cool brake rotors
Check any race car with that set-up. hole with hose in backing plate or no plate at all.
Nope slotted only. I asked the brainiack at Rotora the same question and he said it was only for fit not cooling. My question was it worth the hassle (e.g. cutting the metal off). Thanks
#7
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Originally Posted by rodneyc77
<|========= Did not even look at the instructions.... but I did torque the bracket bolts to OEM specs... I think it was 40lbs-ft... I did not remove the dust shield...
Hey Rodney
You mentioned 40lbs-ft. I was wondering the same. The AT single piston brakes call for 37lbs-ft and the MT brembo brackets call for 125lbs-ft. Big difference.
(https://acurazine.com/forums/showthread.php?t=118283 page 19-15 & 19-18)
Does anyone know what torque settings should be used for Rotoro BBK on an AT? Can improper torque on the brackets cause similar issues to improper torque on lug nuts?
Also Break in for the H2s? that come with Rotora BBK...does this sound right?
drive regularly, and not to brake hard for the first 200-500 miles
What you want to do is speed up to 60mph and slow down to 10mph. Do this about 8-10 times. If possible try and not come to a complete stop. Start with light pressure and each time after apply more pressure. Do not lock up the brakes though. If you have to brake to stop or avoid accident do so but start the process over again. You can repeat this cycle a couple times but in between each cycle give the rotor time to cool.
Thanks
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