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I just got the car back from the alignment shop and questioned why the rear camber was out -1.5 to -0.5 spec and they are at -1.6 and -1.7. I was told it is not adjustable so I said if I found out it was a lie, I was going to be back and very pissed.
Upon further examination, the right front camber is at -1.1 with the max being -1.0. Anyone with experience with these cars thing this will be a problem?
Somehow, my toe front and rear was waaaaaaaaay out and the car drives much bettter now.
if toe isnt close to zero, expect your tires to die fast... ifirahse is right about hondas not having adjustable camber, but -1.7 in the rear doesnt sound that bad to me..
That's it. You can reference alignment specs in the Technical Information --> Specificaitons portion of the Owners Manual.
Dropping your car on the A-Spec springs probably pushed the camber out a bit. If it reasonably close and the Toe is good, tire wear should not be an issue, but should be monitored closely just the same.
i wouldnt worry about the front camber being out of spec. just rotate ur tires normally and you will be fine. after swappin in my a-spec suspension, my rear camber went out of spec on the rt rear by .2........needless to say i didnt worry about it as the guy recommended a camber kit but i declined and after about 10k with the suspension....no prblems with my tires bro. hope that helps
That explains the annoyed look on the guy's face. Thanks!
I'm wondering why the right rear tire is wearing on the inner tread if the camber isn't that bad. It's twice as worn as the rest of the tire. Left rear tire is fine. Hopefully the toe caused it but we'll see.
i wouldnt worry about the front camber being out of spec. just rotate ur tires normally and you will be fine. after swappin in my a-spec suspension, my rear camber went out of spec on the rt rear by .2........needless to say i didnt worry about it as the guy recommended a camber kit but i declined and after about 10k with the suspension....no prblems with my tires bro. hope that helps
That's good to know. I'll just forget about it for a few months.
I'll have those pics for you tomorrow. By the time I got the car back it was nearly dark.
That's it. You can reference alignment specs in the Technical Information --> Specificaitons portion of the Owners Manual.
Dropping your car on the A-Spec springs probably pushed the camber out a bit. If it reasonably close and the Toe is good, tire wear should not be an issue, but should be monitored closely just the same.
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Nothing is very far off now. My front toe is a 0. Rear is 0 and .5.
I had no idea there are so few adjustments. Glad I got the entire front subframe replaced when I hit a curb. If something was slightly off in the repair, there would be no way to compensate for it.
I started to have them put a little toe-out since I'm taking it to the track but I don't want to deal with it following evey rut in the road until then.
I'm wondering why the right rear tire is wearing on the inner tread if the camber isn't that bad. It's twice as worn as the rest of the tire. Left rear tire is fine. Hopefully the toe caused it but we'll see.
If the inside is cupped, that would be toe as the tire is being dragged across the roadway, but if smooth, it's camber as the wheel is tilted and more pressure is being placed on the inside, thus more wear.
If the inside is cupped, that would be toe as the tire is being dragged across the roadway, but if smooth, it's camber as the wheel is tilted and more pressure is being placed on the inside, thus more wear.
It's cupped for sure and creating tire noise inside of the car. Very good to know, I feel better now knowing that it's likely taken care of with the new toe setting. Thanks.
Another FYI:
Here's an offset balljoint for front camber adj:
Ingalls Front Camber Kit, Ball Joint, ONE SIDE, 04-08 UA6 Acura TL and Type-S, 35591.2
1.5" to 3" Adjustable Upper Control Arm Ball Joint
rear camber kits- replacement adjustable length rear control arms are availble for gen3
as are front ball joints with adjustment for camber
see excelerate or mrheeltoe
if the normal max limit is neg 1 and you are neg 1.5 its fine
I have a year like that and no issue on tire wear
drop the car really low and it gets closer to neg 2 degrees, and I would spend the cash for the adjusters
Its usually the rear that goes out more when lowered
Sounds like the body shop failed to do a 4 wheel alignment after the subframe replacement and the toe out was hurting the tire
Toe makes the car go straight
First track day with the car, LEAVE THE CAR ALONE
You know how it drives the way it sits
Spend the track time learning the line and how the car brakes and turns at increasig speeds...
Driving at 70% of the cars and your max in the corners (full throttle and braking) will keep the car on course and the instructors happy. Each session that 70% is faster than the last~
I just got back from the alignment shop and I was told that they could not perform an alignment for the rears because the adjusting bolt is seized. So I'm in the market to buy a new lower control arm +adjusting bolts. My question: should I purchase a camber kit? Below, I attach the printout and final spec. Thanks.
After much research myself, I found it was best to go with OEM toe arms + hardware, coupled with SPC upper camber arms for camber adjustment.
Rent a Sawsall and cut the old arm off. It was the most satisfying thing ever to watch the old seized bushing come off.
02-28-2009, 06:34 PM
