Gwaks

Before anyone says, "Use the search key", I have been. I'm trying to remove my rotor, so I can replace a cross threaded wheel stud. I've been reading that you need to remove that rubber piece, then find some star pattern washer type thing in there and loosen it?

I cannot find that star piece for the life of me, I read it's located around 6 oclock, looking straight at the rotor. Someone please help, this is annoying! If I find it, what do I do? Push it in, turn it left, etc..?

Thanks!

Also, I already removed the caliper and the two screws.

justnspace

iTrader: (1)

no.

the rubber grommet hides the star spindle for the parking brake.


for rotor removal, you'll need to take off the rotor screws.




THey can be A BITCH!
you'll need an impact driver or a drill.

I always skip the impact driver and go straight for the drill.
I drill those skimpy screws out and then bang on the rotor with a rubber mallet.
by banging on the rotor with the mallet, it dislodges any rust that formed binding the rotor to the hub.

Gwaks

That's it? Just remove the screws? Okay, I have that done. I've been pulling my rotor off as hard as I can pull, and it's not budging.

What can I do to help get it off then? Thank you.

justnspace

iTrader: (1)

bang the rotor with a hammer or rubber mallet.

it will break free all the rust that had formed binding the rotor to the hub

Gwaks

Just a reminder, this is for the rears.

pohljm

yup! drill em out or impact driver. no need to reinstall, its just for ease of assembly. rubber mallet is the best choice or be careful with a hammer

justnspace

iTrader: (1)

the front and rears are the same.

TLDude876

iTrader: (7)

Once the screws are out, bang on the hub part of the rotor

94eg!

Yup, just hit the rotor with a hammer on the rusty flat surface between the wheel studs. Pull on the back of the rotor on the opposite side as you hit it with the hammer. Go around it in a circular patter and it frozen rotor will start to walk off the rusty hub ring.

There are also threaded holes on rotor hat designed to thread bolts into. Then you just turn each bolt a little at a time to press the rotor off the hub. The only hard part is finding a long bolt that matches the threads.

This is not a TL rotor so the bolt size might not be correct, but it gives you an idea:


This is the TL rear rotor. The press holes are the two across from eachother located furthest out from the center:

Gwaks

I appreciate all the help guys! I got the rotor off, no problem, cause I thought this whole time there was something inside that rubber hole I had to loosen. Must of got confused reading somewhere else. Thank you! Although, I could not get the 32mm axle nut off for the life of me. So I'll see if Honda/Acura can loosen it.

94eg!

You will need to make yourself a cheater bar. I use an 18" breaker bar, and then slip the upper half of my jack handle (pipe) over that to extend it's length to almost 3'. To break the nut loose you should:

- slip the rotor back on (not caliper)
- remove your center cap
- slip the wheel back on
- install a couple lug nuts semi-tight
- lower the car back onto the ground
- Now break the hub nut loose with your cheater bar through the hole for the center cap

Having the car on the ground allows you to put a LOT more torque into it without fear of the car slipping off the jackstand.

Gwaks

Thanks for the detailed instructions. I definitely need to invest in a breaker bar. I was trying to loosen it with a 1/2" wrench, ha. I heard you may need to replace the nut if you remove it? True?

94eg!

As you can see from the pic, you can slip the pipe right over a 1/2" ratchet too, but I seriously doubt it would work on a wrench. It is recommended that you replace the nut cause you usually stake them down into the divot on the hub snout after torquing. That means the old one already has a pinch in it. You could re-use the old one as long as you re-stake it, but you "should" be able to buy those nuts for only a couple dollars at Autozone. I see they sell the fronts & rears for $15 each (WTF).

It's also only a about ~$3 at the dealer (both Honda & Acura): 90305-S30-003

Bbblee

It's such a hassle to replace. I did my rear rotors recently. I'll get pics up soon

paperboy42190

iTrader: (7)

i dont get it. this thread started as a rear rotor removal thread, then it became an axle nut thread(axle nuts are only for the front btw, the TL only has axles in the front), then it became a thread about using a breaker bar to break loose a crank pulley bolt? ????

justnspace

iTrader: (1)

^conversation flows from topic to topic, much like in real life.
threads are like women, stop trying to understand them

94eg!

There is an "axle-nut" on the rear too. It's just used to hold on the rear hubs onto the spindles. <3

Turbonut

iTrader: (1)

^ Technically they are spindle nuts

94eg!

"Technically" it's just a nut. End.

Turbonut

iTrader: (1)

If you believe it to be just a nut, next time you need one go to the counter and ask for a nut and let me know how you make out. End

94eg!

Will do!

94eg!

Oh! I get it now.... http://www.oemacuraparts.com/parts-c...aft-half-shaft

Elliot Konner

Bringing the thread home....so to speak....I am doing rear discs, and pads-but am also rebuilding a caliper (driver side). Piston came out great, and there was some gross/dirty fluid in there. Slight burnishing on piston, but pretty minimal-and the bore looks great as well. I was wondering what grease is reccomended for the piston install? I want to use the right stuff so as to not contaminate my brake fluid. Any help would REALLY be appreciated! Thanks a lot for all the great info!

Turbonut

iTrader: (1)

Should have started a new thread, but no grease. Use fine crocus cloth on the bore and piston to clean it up, then rinse with hot soapy water, dry thoroughly, then use just some brake fluid on the seal, piston and bore during installation. When drying, don't use anything that will leave lint or residue inside the caliper.