More payload!
Thread Starter
Burning Brakes
Joined: Sep 2011
Posts: 1,138
Likes: 78
More payload!
long story short (oh i'm going on road trip and blah blah blah)
situation : i know TL (3G base) can only take so much load and it's specified in manual and it's not much. so i need her to be able to take more comfortably
[press x to escape from the gutter]
but even when i'm only at about 1/2 of max payload (including me, raamat, full tanko f gas) the rear is saggy like a corolla trying to haul a car trailer.
goal : I want the car to be level, for looks & safety.
my imagination & possible problems
1. put A-spec in the rear
- but it will be tail happy when the car's empty
2. coilovers
- i do not want to take it off every so often for overhaul
3. use one of those urethane "spring spacers", lift the rear of the car up, shove one or two on the spring, only when i'm carrying loads
- but i will have less "usable" stroke since urethane bumpers will be like bump stops..
ultimately : i'm gonna put a hitch and use a bike rack too.
how i came here : F350 has stiffer rear springs and more payload than F250.....
any inputs are appreciated (yes bring on that "TL is not a truck, get a truck" argument too
) thanks in advance!
situation : i know TL (3G base) can only take so much load and it's specified in manual and it's not much. so i need her to be able to take more comfortably
[press x to escape from the gutter]but even when i'm only at about 1/2 of max payload (including me, raamat, full tanko f gas) the rear is saggy like a corolla trying to haul a car trailer.
goal : I want the car to be level, for looks & safety.
my imagination & possible problems
1. put A-spec in the rear
- but it will be tail happy when the car's empty
2. coilovers
- i do not want to take it off every so often for overhaul
3. use one of those urethane "spring spacers", lift the rear of the car up, shove one or two on the spring, only when i'm carrying loads
- but i will have less "usable" stroke since urethane bumpers will be like bump stops..
ultimately : i'm gonna put a hitch and use a bike rack too.
how i came here : F350 has stiffer rear springs and more payload than F250.....
any inputs are appreciated (yes bring on that "TL is not a truck, get a truck" argument too
) thanks in advance!
Last edited by 4drviper; Jun 12, 2012 at 01:43 PM.
2014 Jeep SRT
Joined: Nov 2004
Posts: 3,906
Likes: 1,615
From: Upstate NY
So let's say you accomplish your goal and find a way to make the car level with the trailer attached. What happens when you detach it? You'll have to undo everything you just did you accommodate the trailer.
Unless you plan to roll around with the trailer 90% of the time, I don't see why this is anything to worry about. If it bothers you that much, rent a Uhaul or have a friend tow the trailer for you.
Unless you plan to roll around with the trailer 90% of the time, I don't see why this is anything to worry about. If it bothers you that much, rent a Uhaul or have a friend tow the trailer for you.
Team Owner
Joined: Mar 2006
Posts: 20,172
Likes: 1,818
From: Bakersfield
Are you towing a trailer or just loading it down?
I think it's a great idea to do something about the sag of the TL if you're traveling with it. It will save a ton of tire wear from negative camber and the TL is outright dangerous when loaded down. It has very little suspension travel before the bumpstops.
Honestly, I think coilovers are a great idea if they will allow you to put it up to stock height.
The spring spacers work too but you will have to use 3 per spring to have any hopes of making it level and you can run into coil bind of it's highly loaded over bumps.
Aspec is not stiff enough to make a real difference especially considering you lose 1/2" right off the bat.
Just try and distribute the weight as best as you can. If you can use the rear seat over the trunk, that's better. FWD cars are more sensitive to this. If you're trying to tow a trailer, I wouldn't. Some people do but it's just not a good idea in a TL.
If you have a 5at, think about adding a cooler. There shouldn't be a problem going down the freeway with the converter locked but if you have to climb hills you definitely want a cooler. Also, the ECU's shift strategy is retarded. Don't wait for the ECU to unlock the converter clutch when climbing a hill, downshift to 4th manually. It will keep the clutch locked and SIGNIFICANTLY reduce heat over climbing hills with it in 5th and the converter unlocked. Overall rpms in 4th with it locked vs 5th with it unlocked will be about the same and you will have much more power on tap.
I think it's a great idea to do something about the sag of the TL if you're traveling with it. It will save a ton of tire wear from negative camber and the TL is outright dangerous when loaded down. It has very little suspension travel before the bumpstops.
Honestly, I think coilovers are a great idea if they will allow you to put it up to stock height.
The spring spacers work too but you will have to use 3 per spring to have any hopes of making it level and you can run into coil bind of it's highly loaded over bumps.
Aspec is not stiff enough to make a real difference especially considering you lose 1/2" right off the bat.
Just try and distribute the weight as best as you can. If you can use the rear seat over the trunk, that's better. FWD cars are more sensitive to this. If you're trying to tow a trailer, I wouldn't. Some people do but it's just not a good idea in a TL.
If you have a 5at, think about adding a cooler. There shouldn't be a problem going down the freeway with the converter locked but if you have to climb hills you definitely want a cooler. Also, the ECU's shift strategy is retarded. Don't wait for the ECU to unlock the converter clutch when climbing a hill, downshift to 4th manually. It will keep the clutch locked and SIGNIFICANTLY reduce heat over climbing hills with it in 5th and the converter unlocked. Overall rpms in 4th with it locked vs 5th with it unlocked will be about the same and you will have much more power on tap.
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