Making my 3G TL handle better
12-02-2011, 05:08 PM
#1
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Making my 3G TL handle better
The only gripe I have with my TL is that its FWD. If only Acura had made the TL a RWD 
. I am going on a mountain run with my TL this Sunday. I attended the previous run with my RWD car and it was tons of fun! I met a few TL owners at the meet but they were all type s and they said the car was doing fine.
I decided to "practice"
this afternoon. I know this stretch of road that is all curvy and twisty. Around 60mph the car feels alright...not the best but it feels okay. When taking going through a twistie at 70mph and flooring it out of the turn it feels like the car is going to lose control.
Now these are my plans to make my 3G TL handle better.
Excelerate Performance: Progress 24MM Rear Sway Bar
Megan Coilovers
What else should I add to make it handle a bit better? All suggestions are welcome!
And btw does the type s handle better? When I went on the last mountain run we were doing 80 mph through twists and turns and the TLS stayed right with me.
. I am going on a mountain run with my TL this Sunday. I attended the previous run with my RWD car and it was tons of fun! I met a few TL owners at the meet but they were all type s and they said the car was doing fine. I decided to "practice"
this afternoon. I know this stretch of road that is all curvy and twisty. Around 60mph the car feels alright...not the best but it feels okay. When taking going through a twistie at 70mph and flooring it out of the turn it feels like the car is going to lose control. Now these are my plans to make my 3G TL handle better.
Excelerate Performance: Progress 24MM Rear Sway Bar
Megan Coilovers
What else should I add to make it handle a bit better? All suggestions are welcome!
And btw does the type s handle better? When I went on the last mountain run we were doing 80 mph through twists and turns and the TLS stayed right with me.
12-02-2011, 05:52 PM
#2
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was it a stock type s or modded?
your stock 08 is sitting on the softest OEM suspension available for the car. also has a smaller FSB/RSB than a stock type s.
type s has a firmer suspension, bigger front and rear sway bar. so yes...it will handle better than a stock base 08.
swapping the FSB requires dropping the subframe. IHC has stated the most balance set up is a types FSB, progress rSB on soft and suspension mods (ie aspec).
so you want the ultimate set up add a type-s FSB to your shopping list. i do not know what the handling characteristics of the megan coilovers are, so i cannot comment on that.
if you run a search for progress RSB...you can find some of the threads IHC has commented on with regard to balancing the handling of the TL.
your stock 08 is sitting on the softest OEM suspension available for the car. also has a smaller FSB/RSB than a stock type s.
type s has a firmer suspension, bigger front and rear sway bar. so yes...it will handle better than a stock base 08.
swapping the FSB requires dropping the subframe. IHC has stated the most balance set up is a types FSB, progress rSB on soft and suspension mods (ie aspec).
so you want the ultimate set up add a type-s FSB to your shopping list. i do not know what the handling characteristics of the megan coilovers are, so i cannot comment on that.
if you run a search for progress RSB...you can find some of the threads IHC has commented on with regard to balancing the handling of the TL.
Last edited by TLtrigirl; 12-02-2011 at 05:54 PM.
12-02-2011, 06:05 PM
#4
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Good tires.
12-02-2011, 09:57 PM
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well just having become a 3G TL owner....
I'm thinking a bigger sway bar will make her a little more tail happy. However this is prolly the best handling car I have had. Having owned a 95 Taurus SHO, then the Pontiac GTP, both of which had non-stock rear sway bars...I prefer a slightly tail happy off throttle feeling...
So I'm thinking the same way...sway bars would be a good start...
I'm thinking a bigger sway bar will make her a little more tail happy. However this is prolly the best handling car I have had. Having owned a 95 Taurus SHO, then the Pontiac GTP, both of which had non-stock rear sway bars...I prefer a slightly tail happy off throttle feeling...
So I'm thinking the same way...sway bars would be a good start...
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12-02-2011, 11:22 PM
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Tires. Tires. Tires. Tires. Tires. Tires. Tires. Tires. Tires. Tires. Tires. Tires.
Tires.
And then a slightly thicker RSB, and coilovers or maybe springs.
Tires.
And then a slightly thicker RSB, and coilovers or maybe springs.
12-03-2011, 12:06 AM
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Do not forget that air pressure is 1) adjustable, and 2) can be used to alter certain characteristics of the tires. If the tire pressure is too low, the car will respond more sluggishly with more mushy steering feel. Certain tires are more sensitive than others to air pressure adjustment, too. Try higher cold pressures-- 40F/37R rather than 35F/32R or 33/32, etc.-- when driving in high-performance mode.
New tires are the most effective way to make a car handle better, but only under certain conditions. If one gets summer tires, they will work great on warm dry days, but not well at all on snowy and wet days (something to keep in mind since this is now December
). All-seasons are a compromise of various characteristics, as are most street tires.
12-03-2011, 12:43 AM
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Coilovers (lower center of gravity)
RSB (Rear sway bar)
FSB (Front sway bar)
Good Tires
Power mods for your Low + Mid range
Loose some weight (am talking about the TL)
RSB (Rear sway bar)
FSB (Front sway bar)
Good Tires
Power mods for your Low + Mid range
Loose some weight (am talking about the TL)
12-03-2011, 03:01 PM
#12
I think OP needs just FOUR tires.
Do not forget that air pressure is 1) adjustable, and 2) can be used to alter certain characteristics of the tires. If the tire pressure is too low, the car will respond more sluggishly with more mushy steering feel. Certain tires are more sensitive than others to air pressure adjustment, too. Try higher cold pressures-- 40F/37R rather than 35F/32R or 33/32, etc.-- when driving in high-performance mode.
New tires are the most effective way to make a car handle better, but only under certain conditions. If one gets summer tires, they will work great on warm dry days, but not well at all on snowy and wet days (something to keep in mind since this is now December ). All-seasons are a compromise of various characteristics, as are most street tires.
Do not forget that air pressure is 1) adjustable, and 2) can be used to alter certain characteristics of the tires. If the tire pressure is too low, the car will respond more sluggishly with more mushy steering feel. Certain tires are more sensitive than others to air pressure adjustment, too. Try higher cold pressures-- 40F/37R rather than 35F/32R or 33/32, etc.-- when driving in high-performance mode.
New tires are the most effective way to make a car handle better, but only under certain conditions. If one gets summer tires, they will work great on warm dry days, but not well at all on snowy and wet days (something to keep in mind since this is now December
). All-seasons are a compromise of various characteristics, as are most street tires.I had 35psi all around on my Michelin Pilot Sports, but didn't notice much of a difference except you can feel the bumps/road more.
12-03-2011, 03:49 PM
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^^^ PSI never goes by tire size....
on the tire there is MAX PSI mentioned....i usually put 80% of that....
example: if the max psi is 51....i usually put 37-38....if the max psi says 42 i put in 32....
on the tire there is MAX PSI mentioned....i usually put 80% of that....
example: if the max psi is 51....i usually put 37-38....if the max psi says 42 i put in 32....
12-03-2011, 04:30 PM
#14
All are good advise and will definitely improve handling, but with improved handling, one tends to go faster, and if you go faster no matter how good is your car handling, if you cant stop or pads fade with heat you are shiet out of luck,
so my advise is always to upgrade you brakes, either with rotors and pads or better a BBK, that will improve handling......
My 2 cents......OP is going to get bit by the "mod" mosquito $$$$$$............
so my advise is always to upgrade you brakes, either with rotors and pads or better a BBK, that will improve handling......
My 2 cents......OP is going to get bit by the "mod" mosquito $$$$$$............
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JD TL-S (12-23-2011)
12-03-2011, 07:07 PM
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I run 37F/34R- 36F/33R on my stock-size Yoko Advan S.4s.
My rule of thumb is that you can run any pressure you like between the recommended pressure and 40 or 42 psi for tires on a daily driver-- just maintain the F/R difference and check the tires for unusual wear every week.
Yes, that's the "increased steering response + steering feel."
When the car turns more sharply or at higher speeds, the higher-pressure tires will roll over less, but you'll feel more of the road irregularities; the car may feel less luxurious and more sporty. It's a trade-off.
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vp55 (12-04-2011)
12-03-2011, 10:01 PM
#17
Higher pressure = stiffer sidewalls, which means some increased steering response + steering feel.
I run 37F/34R- 36F/33R on my stock-size Yoko Advan S.4s.
My rule of thumb is that you can run any pressure you like between the recommended pressure and 40 or 42 psi for tires on a daily driver-- just maintain the F/R difference and check the tires for unusual wear every week.
Yes, that's the "increased steering response + steering feel."
When the car turns more sharply or at higher speeds, the higher-pressure tires will roll over less, but you'll feel more of the road irregularities; the car may feel less luxurious and more sporty. It's a trade-off.
I run 37F/34R- 36F/33R on my stock-size Yoko Advan S.4s.
My rule of thumb is that you can run any pressure you like between the recommended pressure and 40 or 42 psi for tires on a daily driver-- just maintain the F/R difference and check the tires for unusual wear every week.
Yes, that's the "increased steering response + steering feel."
When the car turns more sharply or at higher speeds, the higher-pressure tires will roll over less, but you'll feel more of the road irregularities; the car may feel less luxurious and more sporty. It's a trade-off.
Yes, I noticed a harsher ride after getting these tires. The car handles better but kind of "wobbles" sometimes during rough roads/bumps, meaning it sways slightly left to right during uneven/rough roads.
I may need to look into getting new shocks/springs.
12-03-2011, 10:03 PM
#18
Team Owner
I actually wrote this 8 hours ago and forgot to hit send.
Exactly. No suspension mods will come close to making the kind of gains you get on good tires. Not even close.
As for the rest of the questions, I've written way too much too many times on handling improvements and the reasons why so I'm not going to do it again but if you want to search using my username you can find a lot of information.
I will tell you this though, lower does not usually equal better when the TL already practically sits on the bumpstops.
12-03-2011, 10:17 PM
#19
Team Owner
To add to some of the more recent comments, more tire pressure does not always mean better traction. In fact many times it can reduce traction. Trying to get close to the max on the sidewall is not the way to the best traction. Best MPG maybe but not traction.
For example, my NT05s say something like 50psi or 55psi and above 35-36psi traction starts going down. At the track that means a cold pressure of 28psi or less. For the street, cold pressure is 31-32psi to get me to the max traction area when hot. You have to find out through testing what pressure gets you the best traction for your particular tires on your particular car. There's no one pressure fits all.
I'm OCD when it comes to tires but if it means the difference in stopping in time or stopping 10 feet into someone's bumper it's worth the money to get a great set of tires. Think about it for a second, a really good set of tires can reduce stopping distances by 20'. That's huge if you're trying to avoid an accident. I had a wreck where some chick pulled out right in front of me and panicked and stopped right in front of me. I jammed on the brakes and then swerved around her at the last second. I hit her so gently that I thought I heard a noise but wasn't sure. I pulled over and had a little blue paint on my bumper from her car. I was doing 55mph at the time. That would have totaled the car if I made full contact. These tires are waaaay above other street tires and there's no doubt with an ordinary tire the car would be totaled.
Better response/turn-in does not always mean a stiffer ride and a stiffer ride does not always mean better response. I had a set of tires that you felt every pebble on the road with only average response (BFG G-force Sport) and the Nitto NT05 I currently have have race-like crispness and response yet they ride pretty nice for what they are.
The TL's stock brakes whether it's the 11.8" 5at brakes or the 12.2" Brembos have more than enough power to lock up a good set of tires. Bigger brakes will only help stopping distances if you do enough consecutive hard stops to fade them. Otherwise bigger brakes are worthless. I upgraded to a 13" BBK and it did not shorten distances at all but they are very nice for repeated hard stops, effortless stops from 120mph. They also allow you to use a slightly less aggressive pad so you don't have to deal with the squeaking and cold stop issues.
For example, my NT05s say something like 50psi or 55psi and above 35-36psi traction starts going down. At the track that means a cold pressure of 28psi or less. For the street, cold pressure is 31-32psi to get me to the max traction area when hot. You have to find out through testing what pressure gets you the best traction for your particular tires on your particular car. There's no one pressure fits all.
I'm OCD when it comes to tires but if it means the difference in stopping in time or stopping 10 feet into someone's bumper it's worth the money to get a great set of tires. Think about it for a second, a really good set of tires can reduce stopping distances by 20'. That's huge if you're trying to avoid an accident. I had a wreck where some chick pulled out right in front of me and panicked and stopped right in front of me. I jammed on the brakes and then swerved around her at the last second. I hit her so gently that I thought I heard a noise but wasn't sure. I pulled over and had a little blue paint on my bumper from her car. I was doing 55mph at the time. That would have totaled the car if I made full contact. These tires are waaaay above other street tires and there's no doubt with an ordinary tire the car would be totaled.
Better response/turn-in does not always mean a stiffer ride and a stiffer ride does not always mean better response. I had a set of tires that you felt every pebble on the road with only average response (BFG G-force Sport) and the Nitto NT05 I currently have have race-like crispness and response yet they ride pretty nice for what they are.
The TL's stock brakes whether it's the 11.8" 5at brakes or the 12.2" Brembos have more than enough power to lock up a good set of tires. Bigger brakes will only help stopping distances if you do enough consecutive hard stops to fade them. Otherwise bigger brakes are worthless. I upgraded to a 13" BBK and it did not shorten distances at all but they are very nice for repeated hard stops, effortless stops from 120mph. They also allow you to use a slightly less aggressive pad so you don't have to deal with the squeaking and cold stop issues.
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TheDingo (12-03-2011)
12-03-2011, 11:40 PM
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You'll need the proper wheel alignment on the car to make sure the tires do their job correctly,without wearing unevenly or prematurely.
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vp55 (12-04-2011)
12-04-2011, 12:11 AM
#22
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12-04-2011, 02:25 AM
#24
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They don't have to be hot to stick, just a few minutes of driving is needed and when dead cold they're no worse than a normal tire. The R compounds would stick better when fully hot but they never reached their optimal temp with street driving and the NT05 had better traction under these conditions. The street tires on the other hand got worse and worse as they got hot. This quality was the decision maker for me. What's more important for a street tire than operating in it's optimal range in spirited street driving?
They're comfortable for what they are. Steering response and turn-in is ultra sharp. They are very close to a full race tire in this category but they ride like a street tire.
They don't turn to butter after a few laps like EVERY OTHER street tire did and the rubber does not come off in chunks.
They don't wear super fast when cold but they do wear as quick as any other 200 treadwear tire will. I make sure alignments are perfect and I get about 20k out of them.
They're ultra quiet for a tire in this category. All of the R compounds were not usable on the street. My subs at the time (2-12W6s on 1,000w) could barely drown out the noise. Conversation was nearly impossible at 30mph. Some of the street tires were very noisy as well.
Very good wet traction.
They're cheaper than most in this category.
Now if I got to change one thing about them it would be the option to have a full 9/32" of tread instead of 6/32". I'm not concerned about losing an imperceptible amount of precision or the heat generated from the extra tread.
12-04-2011, 11:17 AM
#25
That sounds like a toe alignment problem at the rear wheels-- several of us have had that, which was corrected immediately by a proper alignment.
You'll need the proper wheel alignment on the car to make sure the tires do their job correctly,without wearing unevenly or prematurely.
You'll need the proper wheel alignment on the car to make sure the tires do their job correctly,without wearing unevenly or prematurely.
Do you think I should get the tires rotated and balanced first, or most likely just an alignment issue?
Last edited by vp55; 12-04-2011 at 11:28 AM.
12-04-2011, 11:32 AM
#26
I did a test about a year ago of a bunch of R compounds and ultra performance summer tires. The NT05 had several unique qualities that made it stand out for daily driving and occasional track use.
They don't have to be hot to stick, just a few minutes of driving is needed and when dead cold they're no worse than a normal tire. The R compounds would stick better when fully hot but they never reached their optimal temp with street driving and the NT05 had better traction under these conditions. The street tires on the other hand got worse and worse as they got hot. This quality was the decision maker for me. What's more important for a street tire than operating in it's optimal range in spirited street driving?
They're comfortable for what they are. Steering response and turn-in is ultra sharp. They are very close to a full race tire in this category but they ride like a street tire.
They don't turn to butter after a few laps like EVERY OTHER street tire did and the rubber does not come off in chunks.
They don't wear super fast when cold but they do wear as quick as any other 200 treadwear tire will. I make sure alignments are perfect and I get about 20k out of them.
They're ultra quiet for a tire in this category. All of the R compounds were not usable on the street. My subs at the time (2-12W6s on 1,000w) could barely drown out the noise. Conversation was nearly impossible at 30mph. Some of the street tires were very noisy as well.
Very good wet traction.
They're cheaper than most in this category.
Now if I got to change one thing about them it would be the option to have a full 9/32" of tread instead of 6/32". I'm not concerned about losing an imperceptible amount of precision or the heat generated from the extra tread.
They don't have to be hot to stick, just a few minutes of driving is needed and when dead cold they're no worse than a normal tire. The R compounds would stick better when fully hot but they never reached their optimal temp with street driving and the NT05 had better traction under these conditions. The street tires on the other hand got worse and worse as they got hot. This quality was the decision maker for me. What's more important for a street tire than operating in it's optimal range in spirited street driving?
They're comfortable for what they are. Steering response and turn-in is ultra sharp. They are very close to a full race tire in this category but they ride like a street tire.
They don't turn to butter after a few laps like EVERY OTHER street tire did and the rubber does not come off in chunks.
They don't wear super fast when cold but they do wear as quick as any other 200 treadwear tire will. I make sure alignments are perfect and I get about 20k out of them.
They're ultra quiet for a tire in this category. All of the R compounds were not usable on the street. My subs at the time (2-12W6s on 1,000w) could barely drown out the noise. Conversation was nearly impossible at 30mph. Some of the street tires were very noisy as well.
Very good wet traction.
They're cheaper than most in this category.
Now if I got to change one thing about them it would be the option to have a full 9/32" of tread instead of 6/32". I'm not concerned about losing an imperceptible amount of precision or the heat generated from the extra tread.
I will maybe just lean toward a longevity UHP tire like the Conti DW just because I use my car a lot.
A balance won't hurt. I get my balances free from Discount Tire, so if that is the case, go ahead and do it.
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vp55 (12-04-2011)
12-04-2011, 01:19 PM
#27
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Check the tires to make sure there is fairly even wear on the treads. If there's even wear, no vibration and the tires were rotated and balanced within the last 3000 miles or so, the four-wheel alignment should be fine; just do a rotation at the next service.
If there is slightly uneven wear, do a rotation and set all the tires to preferred pressure (particularly if you run higher pressures up front) before the alignment.
12-04-2011, 07:08 PM
#28
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New tires it is. I went on the run today. The TL did great. I imagine after I get my swaybars, coils and brembos it will be much better. The only problem I had were the tires. Not sure what kind of tires they are (came with the car) but they were annoying. At high speeds they screeched and felt unstable. =(
12-23-2011, 10:01 PM
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^^^ Air pressure depends on Tire....I always fill up my tires to ~75-80% of max psi
If tire says max psi as 44...I put in 34psi
If tire says max psi as 51...I put in 36psi
If you put in more air pressure (36 compared to 32) you get better traction/acceleration....and IMO better cornering.....
If tire says max psi as 44...I put in 34psi
If tire says max psi as 51...I put in 36psi
If you put in more air pressure (36 compared to 32) you get better traction/acceleration....and IMO better cornering.....
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ABP_04TL (12-23-2011)
12-23-2011, 11:08 PM
#32
Team Owner
There's no rule. My NT05s have a 50 or 60psi max rating. Run them more than 35-36psi hot and traction starts going away. That means a 31psi cold inflation pressure. At the track I have to start them around 26-27psi to get the right hot pressure.
I've had some tires that did really well near the max pressure. The only way to know is to try different pressures and either compare track times or measure stopping distances and cornering g-force. You can go by feel as well of course. The size of the tire means nothing. The weight of the car and most of all, the tire construction will determine optimal pressure.
I've had some tires that did really well near the max pressure. The only way to know is to try different pressures and either compare track times or measure stopping distances and cornering g-force. You can go by feel as well of course. The size of the tire means nothing. The weight of the car and most of all, the tire construction will determine optimal pressure.
12-24-2011, 12:39 AM
#34
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There's no rule. My NT05s have a 50 or 60psi max rating. Run them more than 35-36psi hot and traction starts going away. That means a 31psi cold inflation pressure. At the track I have to start them around 26-27psi to get the right hot pressure.
I've had some tires that did really well near the max pressure. The only way to know is to try different pressures and either compare track times or measure stopping distances and cornering g-force. You can go by feel as well of course. The size of the tire means nothing. The weight of the car and most of all, the tire construction will determine optimal pressure.
I've had some tires that did really well near the max pressure. The only way to know is to try different pressures and either compare track times or measure stopping distances and cornering g-force. You can go by feel as well of course. The size of the tire means nothing. The weight of the car and most of all, the tire construction will determine optimal pressure.
04-14-2012, 04:22 PM
#35
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Bumping from the grave.
Only mod I did was get Neuspeed Lowering Springs, car feels better compared to before. This is not enough though. I am going to be spending major $$$ to upgrade the TL. Want everything done by July. Here is my list.
-Coilovers HT-Spec Version 2.0
-Rear Sway Bar (Comptech) read IHC threads he suggests this as I have 5AT
-New Tires (Hankook V12)
-Brembo Front (Upgrade brakes to the ones vendors here are selling and get aspec pads)
Thats about it.
Only mod I did was get Neuspeed Lowering Springs, car feels better compared to before. This is not enough though. I am going to be spending major $$$ to upgrade the TL. Want everything done by July. Here is my list.
-Coilovers HT-Spec Version 2.0
-Rear Sway Bar (Comptech) read IHC threads he suggests this as I have 5AT
-New Tires (Hankook V12)
-Brembo Front (Upgrade brakes to the ones vendors here are selling and get aspec pads)
Thats about it.
04-14-2012, 05:15 PM
#36
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That'll make a great difference, just make sure you get the tires first if handling is a priority over looks. I picked up a set of Conti DWs, next is upgrading the RSB.
04-16-2012, 03:50 AM
#37
OP, the fact that the TL is a FWD doesn't hinder its handling capabilities. What RWD car did you take on the twisties? I drive my girlfriend's is250 all the time and it doesn't come close to the handling on my UA7. I almost lost control trying to take a 360 degree freeway junction at the same speed I usually take on my type-s.
Also, a comparison test between the TL-s, is350 and G37 on Willow Springs Raceway by Best Motoring proved the TL-s to be the car with the most superior handling of the bunch. The TL-s on that comparison actually holds a record at Streets of Willow AND Big Willow.
Maybe you simply need to get used to driving a FWD car. Even with a RWD, you can't enter a corner at 70mph and "floor it" while exiting. All of your accelerations and decelerations should be smooth and gradual; jerky driving only causes you to lose traction (although it might "feel" faster, you're going to be getting worse times at the track with a rough driving style)
I don't know about how the base 07-08 handles, but my type-s handles wonderfully. You do have the least sporty suspension of all the 3G TLs though, so
As everyone has said, Tires, RSB/FSB, stiffer springs + a good damper, lightweight 18" wheels. In that order. Throw some weight reduction in there too. Also, a few driving courses by someone who knows FWD may help more than all of the mods combined haha
I would like a few good driving lessons myself!
Also, a comparison test between the TL-s, is350 and G37 on Willow Springs Raceway by Best Motoring proved the TL-s to be the car with the most superior handling of the bunch. The TL-s on that comparison actually holds a record at Streets of Willow AND Big Willow.
Maybe you simply need to get used to driving a FWD car. Even with a RWD, you can't enter a corner at 70mph and "floor it" while exiting. All of your accelerations and decelerations should be smooth and gradual; jerky driving only causes you to lose traction (although it might "feel" faster, you're going to be getting worse times at the track with a rough driving style)
I don't know about how the base 07-08 handles, but my type-s handles wonderfully. You do have the least sporty suspension of all the 3G TLs though, so
As everyone has said, Tires, RSB/FSB, stiffer springs + a good damper, lightweight 18" wheels. In that order. Throw some weight reduction in there too. Also, a few driving courses by someone who knows FWD may help more than all of the mods combined haha
I would like a few good driving lessons myself!
Last edited by lumyeinjun; 04-16-2012 at 03:55 AM.
04-16-2012, 11:53 AM
#38
Instructor
Bumping from the grave.
I am going to be spending major $$$ to upgrade the TL. Want everything done by July. Here is my list.
-Coilovers HT-Spec Version 2.0
-Rear Sway Bar (Comptech) read IHC threads he suggests this as I have 5AT
-New Tires (Hankook V12)
-Brembo Front (Upgrade brakes to the ones vendors here are selling and get aspec pads)
Thats about it.
I am going to be spending major $$$ to upgrade the TL. Want everything done by July. Here is my list.
-Coilovers HT-Spec Version 2.0
-Rear Sway Bar (Comptech) read IHC threads he suggests this as I have 5AT
-New Tires (Hankook V12)
-Brembo Front (Upgrade brakes to the ones vendors here are selling and get aspec pads)
Thats about it.
did you get your wheels aligned after you installed the neuspeeds?
installing coilovers will just add more variables which at this point you don't need.
save your money on the big brake upgrade and just buy some good brake pads (not a-spec) and fluid.
Last edited by JETSPD1477; 04-16-2012 at 11:59 AM.
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justnspace (04-16-2012)
04-17-2012, 04:07 AM
#40
There's a reason everyone is saying tires a million times lol. A sticky tire is probably the single best upgrade in terms of handling for the car. The factory tires are full of compromise, they're not going to make the best track tires.
There's no point in throwing thousands into your suspension while running crappy tires. In the end, its your tires that are touching the ground. Without good tires, the rest of your suspension wont work at its full potential.
Also, are you running neuspeed springs on stock shocks? If so, I'd put Koni Yellow SP3 Shocks right after getting new tires, running a lowerimg spring on the soft 07-08 shocks isn't going to help you very much in the corners. You need some shocks that can properly dampen the springs to reap the true benefits of a stiffer spring. Not sure how stiff the neuspeeds are though.
There's no point in throwing thousands into your suspension while running crappy tires. In the end, its your tires that are touching the ground. Without good tires, the rest of your suspension wont work at its full potential.
Also, are you running neuspeed springs on stock shocks? If so, I'd put Koni Yellow SP3 Shocks right after getting new tires, running a lowerimg spring on the soft 07-08 shocks isn't going to help you very much in the corners. You need some shocks that can properly dampen the springs to reap the true benefits of a stiffer spring. Not sure how stiff the neuspeeds are though.
Last edited by lumyeinjun; 04-17-2012 at 04:14 AM.