liutang

What is the quality of the wheels from this company?

Tann@808

Just a note on wheels.....
If they try to make a wheel that looks like another wheels(ie. Katana C-5 or something like that - They try to make it look like Racing Hart C-5's) It's a sign of low quality... besides I think they are cast!

IMO.....what is low quality anyway, shoots, if they look good and the price is right!!! I say go for it.

I'm running 3-piece RH C-5's and I had to get them fixed already(pothole) but my 1st set of 19"s(ACE) which everyone said is a lower quality brand, didn't have any problems.....

I've notice with cheaper wheels, it is very hard to get the right offset that we want but as for quality...... what makes it so much better? brand name? Weight? Looks(I agree here), etc???????????

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2000 ACURA 3.2TL NightHawkBlack
Non-Navi(Doesn't work in Hawaii)
Factory body kit & Wing, 19" Racing Hart C-5's,
Nitto 555's, NEX CoilOvers, CompTech Exhaust,
CompTech Headers, Inspire Taillights, NOS(70 shot),
AEM CAI, Alpine 8080, TL rear door handles in front,
Apexi v-afc, 5% + 30% tints,30% front windshield.
tann@pixi.com

NBP TL

I asked Tim about those katana's and he didnt recommend them. But hey, if the price is right and you like them then go for it.


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2001 Nighthawk Black Pearl TL

• Comptech springs (on order)
• Inspire tailights
• Weapon-R hyper intake
• Burlwood shift knob
• Razo carbon fiber pedals
• Inspire fog light switch (no fogs yet)

adamyankee

I've noticed that most of the rims out there are cast anyway, so once you decide on that, the possibilities are tremendous.

HOWEVER----------

I have spent two months looking for wheels I like starting with the Katana Concept 5. Then I saw Tanner's "Purebreds" and started looking at what cheap is. The problem is finding the correct offset. I found the ADR M-Classics at +40mm max, Konig Imagine at +40mm max, Primax 496 at +40mm max, etc.

Then I found the perfect wheel, the BBS RXII in a +45, BUT ONLY AVAILABLE IN A 5/120 LUG PATTERN.

As Tanner posted, only the more expensive companies that make 3-piece custom wheels will have the higher offsets. The best way to save money is to get the 1-piece version if the company makes one. (ie, 5zigen Heidfelds)

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1999 Firepepper Red
Under Body Kit/Rear Wing Spoiler/26 Piece Wood Grain Console/BurlWood Shift Knob/
30% Smoke Tint/Comptech Sways & Springs (not installed yet)

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liutang

What's the difference between 1 and 3 piece? Why is 3 piece more expensive? I love the look of the Racing Hart C5's and I knew that the Katana C5's are knockoffs, but unless there is something drastically wrong with them, what's wrong with getting them? Weight? Offset? The Katanas come in 17x7 +50 according to one site that was selling them. If someone can gimme a good reason against the Katanas, then I will save up and get the Racing Harts.

adamyankee

1-piece wheels are cast (liquid metal is poured into a cast). So, therefore you may not get a polished lip.

3-piece wheels consist of two rim halves which are forged (molded through pressure) welded together near the street side. The third piece, the face, is then bolted right on. The forged wheels are therefore stronger.

Look at Tanner's. Those are real functional rivets and he has a polished lip.


These are the Katana's.


Those rivets are just design.

$1600 difference is no small matter, so if you're careful, there shouldn't be too much of a problem. It's up to you.

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1999 Firepepper Red
Under Body Kit/Rear Wing Spoiler/26 Piece Wood Grain Console/BurlWood Shift Knob/
30% Smoke Tint/Comptech Sways & Springs (not installed yet)

More Pics

<FONT COLOR="#800080" SIZE="1" FACE="Verdana, Arial">[This message has been edited by adamyankee on March 16, 2001 @ ]</font>

TLover8888

im in agreement with Tann on this one...if the sh*t looks good, then go for it. besides, how many people out there know rims anyway? all people will be focused on is the appearance of your car and how good it looks with the rims.

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• 2000 TL w/NAV
• 1996 TL 2.5