Installing New Suspension - Jack up whole front or just side?
10-22-2011, 11:43 AM
#1
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Installing New Suspension - Jack up whole front or just side?
Hey folks,
Today I'm gonna be installing my suspension (even though there's supposed to be rain sometime and today's so gloomy.
I rented a spring compressor (Deposited $120!) and got to work this morning.
So far, I was able to get the strut tower bar off; easy.
Now, the manual scan said jack the front of the vehicle up so I did, using the front jack point.
The problem: My jack lift supposedly doesn't go high enough using the front lift point (it brings my front tires up like 1cm).
My jack stands barely have enough clearance to go under the side jack points.
My question is, can I replace one suspension at a time using the jack lift on the side jacking point? I noticed jacking up the sides gives WAY more clearance (I change my own tires from winter to summer and vice versa).
I'd have to find a place to put my jack stand though.
Is this safe?
Today I'm gonna be installing my suspension (even though there's supposed to be rain sometime and today's so gloomy.
I rented a spring compressor (Deposited $120!) and got to work this morning.
So far, I was able to get the strut tower bar off; easy.
Now, the manual scan said jack the front of the vehicle up so I did, using the front jack point.
The problem: My jack lift supposedly doesn't go high enough using the front lift point (it brings my front tires up like 1cm).
My jack stands barely have enough clearance to go under the side jack points.
My question is, can I replace one suspension at a time using the jack lift on the side jacking point? I noticed jacking up the sides gives WAY more clearance (I change my own tires from winter to summer and vice versa).
I'd have to find a place to put my jack stand though.
Is this safe?
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guitarplayer16 (10-22-2011)
10-22-2011, 12:00 PM
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Also, I should note that I ALWAYS use a 2" tall block of wood (it's like 30"x10"). Mainly so the jack lift won't mark my driveway. Still no luck evidently.
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guitarplayer16 (10-22-2011)
10-22-2011, 12:14 PM
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10-22-2011, 01:10 PM
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10-22-2011, 03:09 PM
#8
Resident Dingo
When I did mine, I did the rear first then went to the front. Just a different idea from doing it from side to side.
It's a pretty easy install.. just kind of time consuming.
It's a pretty easy install.. just kind of time consuming.
10-22-2011, 03:20 PM
#9
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Then finish the job, then jack the font passenger side up.
Not do the front driver then rear driver side lol
10-22-2011, 03:40 PM
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10-22-2011, 09:52 PM
#12
if your installing new suspension just put the car on 4 jack stands. if you only have 2 jack stands just do front and rear one at a time. you should invest in a quality floor jack. my racing floor jack gets under most lowered cars and it lifts it up pretty high.
$120 deposit to rent spring compressors. get outta here. I bought mine at harbor freight for $12.99. Done 3-4 suspensions installs already.
http://www.harborfreight.com/macpher...-set-3980.html
$120 deposit to rent spring compressors. get outta here. I bought mine at harbor freight for $12.99. Done 3-4 suspensions installs already.
http://www.harborfreight.com/macpher...-set-3980.html
Last edited by blkmz3; 10-22-2011 at 09:55 PM.
10-22-2011, 10:14 PM
#13
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if your installing new suspension just put the car on 4 jack stands. if you only have 2 jack stands just do front and rear one at a time. you should invest in a quality floor jack. my racing floor jack gets under most lowered cars and it lifts it up pretty high.
$120 deposit to rent spring compressors. get outta here. I bought mine at harbor freight for $12.99. Done 3-4 suspensions installs already.
http://www.harborfreight.com/macpher...-set-3980.html
$120 deposit to rent spring compressors. get outta here. I bought mine at harbor freight for $12.99. Done 3-4 suspensions installs already.
http://www.harborfreight.com/macpher...-set-3980.html
I almost thought I didn't bring enough cash for it lol
So the whole day today I was able to remove the front driver side suspension. You know what was the problem?
Well, since my top hat on the A-Spec suspension is missing a washer and a rubber spacer, I figured I would take it off the stock suspension.
Little did I know, the "hex key" wasn't catching (the hex grooves must have been stripped?), so the whole absorber kept spinning while I tried to keep the hex key in.
I got pissed off and said what the hell its so dark out and the top hat isn't coming off, so I put the suspension back on the car and put the wheel back on and lowered the jack lift.
I'll be ordering the damn washers and rubber spacer from my dealer instead of trying to get to get the stupid bolt out from the tophats.
So today was basically a REALLY good lesson. I now know how to remove the front shocks and put them back on the car lol.
Last edited by guitarplayer16; 10-22-2011 at 10:16 PM.
10-22-2011, 10:17 PM
#14
Resident Dingo
I jacked up the whole front end.. did both sides in the front, then went to do the rear with the whole rear jacked up.
10-23-2011, 08:56 AM
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my brother did my install with two floor jacks. started up front, one floor jack on each side, then to the rear.
hopefully you have air tools and an extra set of hands. life goes so much easier. also...be careful around your endlinks, the likelihood of them stripping out is possible. and if they are loose...well you may have read that they can cause a really annoying rattle. you're gonna like the aspec suspension...any plans for a RSB, too?
hopefully you have air tools and an extra set of hands. life goes so much easier. also...be careful around your endlinks, the likelihood of them stripping out is possible. and if they are loose...well you may have read that they can cause a really annoying rattle. you're gonna like the aspec suspension...any plans for a RSB, too?
10-23-2011, 10:59 AM
#20
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I was thinking of doing it that way but I only have 2 jack stands lol
I'll have to renew my rental for the spring compressors though lol
my brother did my install with two floor jacks. started up front, one floor jack on each side, then to the rear.
hopefully you have air tools and an extra set of hands. life goes so much easier. also...be careful around your endlinks, the likelihood of them stripping out is possible. and if they are loose...well you may have read that they can cause a really annoying rattle. you're gonna like the aspec suspension...any plans for a RSB, too?
hopefully you have air tools and an extra set of hands. life goes so much easier. also...be careful around your endlinks, the likelihood of them stripping out is possible. and if they are loose...well you may have read that they can cause a really annoying rattle. you're gonna like the aspec suspension...any plans for a RSB, too?
tyty
No plans for the RSB haha
I'm basically just upgrading to A-Specs because my old shocks were horrible I think they went bad. So instead of going to stock suspension again, I just got the A-Specs which have 15.5 miles on them lol
10-23-2011, 11:34 AM
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nope. not the safest, but one floor jack on each side worked after a lot of cussing just trying to get the stock shocks out through the maze of components in the wheel well.
used jack stands for the rear sway bar install since we only had one floor jack (he taught me how to jack the car up and place the jack stands). plus it helps keep the car level....duh!
the aspec suspension will be a big upgrade from stock. the RSB...will enhance your experience. worn parts = new...so why not upgrade?
used jack stands for the rear sway bar install since we only had one floor jack (he taught me how to jack the car up and place the jack stands). plus it helps keep the car level....duh!
the aspec suspension will be a big upgrade from stock. the RSB...will enhance your experience. worn parts = new...so why not upgrade?
10-23-2011, 11:37 AM
#22
KingKong_Dav
put your tires/wheels underneath the chassis for xtra protection, use air tools so you dont to pry and pull or yank too hard, car might move budge and SLAMM!
10-24-2011, 09:50 AM
#23
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I did my whole suspension swap with one scissor jack 
You can do it, but it takes forever.
You can do it, but it takes forever.
10-26-2011, 04:43 PM
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nope. not the safest, but one floor jack on each side worked after a lot of cussing just trying to get the stock shocks out through the maze of components in the wheel well.
used jack stands for the rear sway bar install since we only had one floor jack (he taught me how to jack the car up and place the jack stands). plus it helps keep the car level....duh!
the aspec suspension will be a big upgrade from stock. the RSB...will enhance your experience. worn parts = new...so why not upgrade?
used jack stands for the rear sway bar install since we only had one floor jack (he taught me how to jack the car up and place the jack stands). plus it helps keep the car level....duh!
the aspec suspension will be a big upgrade from stock. the RSB...will enhance your experience. worn parts = new...so why not upgrade?
I'll find out about the rears soon.
I i wish i had air tools in my garage
I'm guessing you did it how i'm doing it:
jack up Front left. do that suspension. lower car
jack up front right. do that suspension. lower
repeat for rears
Anywho, good news.
My parts came in (the rubber spacer piece from the top hat, and the top washers between the bolt and the rubber thing)
I had to return the spring compressor, and i don't have time to work on it this week due to so much work so I guess i'll have to wait to do it on friday night, then spend my whole saturday working on the rears
10-26-2011, 05:15 PM
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However you end up doing it, be careful. Use your jack stands.
And don't forget some bolts get tightened with the suspension under load (i.e. jacked up on the lower arm).
And don't forget some bolts get tightened with the suspension under load (i.e. jacked up on the lower arm).
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guitarplayer16 (10-26-2011)
10-26-2011, 06:00 PM
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Btw, can anybody tell me what else I MAY be missing for my top hat?
This is what my top hats looks like:
I did buy the "rubber spring mount" spacer thing which is number 10 on here:
Washer part #9 (dust cover washers) are already on the shock.
I obviously have number 15, the metal collar. You can even see the metal collars in my pic
Washer part #5 I had to order which came in today.
Part #6 is what sketches me out. Obviously in my picture you can see rubber pieces top and bottom but my eyes are telling me they look different than the rubber pieces in the part diagram scan. In the scan it looks like a little "nipple" where it is big on the bottom part but rises at the top. The #6 piece in my picture does not look like it rises out like a nipple. Is mine upside down or something?
Can you guys confirm that I have everything ready for my top hat to assemble and that #6 is supposed to be like that?
10-26-2011, 06:10 PM
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Part #6: you pic looks pretty much exactly what I remember my bushings looking like. They get mashed being under load all the time.
I thought you were replacing you bushings with new Type-S bushings. Or have I mis-remembered?
I thought you were replacing you bushings with new Type-S bushings. Or have I mis-remembered?
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guitarplayer16 (10-26-2011)
10-26-2011, 06:24 PM
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I'll be using the bushings you see there so no Type-S bushings =(
I suppose I'm all good to assemble the top hats onto the shocks!
Thanks again
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guitarplayer16 (10-26-2011)
10-26-2011, 06:37 PM
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woot woot!
I was also wondering about the part "torque the bolts while the suspension is under load" "use a jack to do so".
Can't I just torque the control arm bolt and the pinch bolt, then put the wheel back on and lower the car (which puts load on the suspension), then torque the 3 bolts on the top mount?
I was also wondering about the part "torque the bolts while the suspension is under load" "use a jack to do so".
Can't I just torque the control arm bolt and the pinch bolt, then put the wheel back on and lower the car (which puts load on the suspension), then torque the 3 bolts on the top mount?
10-26-2011, 08:04 PM
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The old ones were, for example, this wide: |..|
The new ones were, for example, this wide: |......|
Probably about 50% thicker.
Getting them on and then compressing the spring (by hand tools, not air) was MAJOR pita.
10-26-2011, 08:08 PM
#32
woot woot!
I was also wondering about the part "torque the bolts while the suspension is under load" "use a jack to do so".
Can't I just torque the control arm bolt and the pinch bolt, then put the wheel back on and lower the car (which puts load on the suspension), then torque the 3 bolts on the top mount?
I was also wondering about the part "torque the bolts while the suspension is under load" "use a jack to do so".
Can't I just torque the control arm bolt and the pinch bolt, then put the wheel back on and lower the car (which puts load on the suspension), then torque the 3 bolts on the top mount?
unfortunately, I'm not following what you're asking
10-26-2011, 08:15 PM
#33
Resident Dingo
woot woot!
I was also wondering about the part "torque the bolts while the suspension is under load" "use a jack to do so".
Can't I just torque the control arm bolt and the pinch bolt, then put the wheel back on and lower the car (which puts load on the suspension), then torque the 3 bolts on the top mount?
I was also wondering about the part "torque the bolts while the suspension is under load" "use a jack to do so".
Can't I just torque the control arm bolt and the pinch bolt, then put the wheel back on and lower the car (which puts load on the suspension), then torque the 3 bolts on the top mount?
10-26-2011, 08:18 PM
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Unfortunatly I don't know enough but to do it "by the book"; I don't know what steps you can short-cut or do out of order and which ones you can't.
I'm still just a n00b.
I get what you're saying (guitarplayer) and it seems to make sense, but I don't want to give you bad advice.
10-26-2011, 08:35 PM
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Haha thanks guys!
I'll do it by the book anyways.
How high should I jack the control arm up to "load the suspension"?
The scans are so vague when it comes to this stuff lol
I'll do it by the book anyways.
How high should I jack the control arm up to "load the suspension"?
The scans are so vague when it comes to this stuff lol
10-26-2011, 08:38 PM
#36
Resident Dingo
Just jack it up and make sure to guide those bolts through the holes they go through while you jack it up. Once you get the bolts started you can take the jack off (lol jack off) and then tighten the bolts under the hood.
10-26-2011, 08:53 PM
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When I was putting on my oem suspension, I remember I didn't have to jack the lower control arm to push through the bolt. The LCA bolt pushed through easily.
I can imagine if I jacked the lower control arm, that would raise the "hole" which would make it impossible for me to thread the bolt through.
EDIT: Just realized via the instructions that I was supposed to lightly thread the bolt on, THEN jack the LCA, then tighten the bolt.
I just pushed the bolt through, tightened down hard, and then put the wheel back on, then tightened the top mount bolts. Then lowered the car, essentially loading the suspension lol
I havn't driven the car AT ALL (it's been what, ever since Saturday my car has been sitting, IN THE RAIN!).
I can imagine if I jacked the lower control arm, that would raise the "hole" which would make it impossible for me to thread the bolt through.
EDIT: Just realized via the instructions that I was supposed to lightly thread the bolt on, THEN jack the LCA, then tighten the bolt.
I just pushed the bolt through, tightened down hard, and then put the wheel back on, then tightened the top mount bolts. Then lowered the car, essentially loading the suspension lol
I havn't driven the car AT ALL (it's been what, ever since Saturday my car has been sitting, IN THE RAIN!).
Last edited by guitarplayer16; 10-26-2011 at 08:57 PM.
10-26-2011, 10:36 PM
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If you do it in the way the instructions say, to load the suspension with the weight of the car, you actually have to jack the LCA to the point that the car just starts to lift off the jack stands. At that point the suspension if fully loaded.
That's how I've done it every time (3, maybe 4 installs).
I think this insures the suspension is fully "up" when the tophat nuts are torqued. Then, in case of extreme suspension travel, the only possible movement is from the proper load bearing components.
That's how I've done it every time (3, maybe 4 installs).
I think this insures the suspension is fully "up" when the tophat nuts are torqued. Then, in case of extreme suspension travel, the only possible movement is from the proper load bearing components.
10-27-2011, 08:43 PM
#39
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If you do it in the way the instructions say, to load the suspension with the weight of the car, you actually have to jack the LCA to the point that the car just starts to lift off the jack stands. At that point the suspension if fully loaded.
That's how I've done it every time (3, maybe 4 installs).
I think this insures the suspension is fully "up" when the tophat nuts are torqued. Then, in case of extreme suspension travel, the only possible movement is from the proper load bearing components.
That's how I've done it every time (3, maybe 4 installs).
I think this insures the suspension is fully "up" when the tophat nuts are torqued. Then, in case of extreme suspension travel, the only possible movement is from the proper load bearing components.
ONE more question lol
How do I know how high/low to install the top hats?
Again, the scan wasn't too detailed. It said align up the top hat, then use the allen wrench to hold the thing still while you screw the nut on. The thread of the shocks are quite long meaning I can mount the top hat at the bottom of the threading or near the top of the threading!
10-27-2011, 10:34 PM
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OK, well the alignment bit is so that the tophat bolts will align with the holes AND the tab on the bottom of the shock will fit in the slot on the LCA. If you don't align the tophat with the tab, the tophat bolts won't go though the holes. See steps 1 & 2 above (and the link below if necessary to see how the alignment works).
As far as that top nut that holds everything together, that gets torqued to 22 lb-ft. We had to estimate it because we couldn't get a torque wrench on it while holding the shaft with the hex key.
22 lb-ft isn't a lot. It similar to the oil pan bolt, iirc. 7 - 10 lb-ft is hand tight; 15 or so is hand tight plus a light pull with a wrench. 22 isn't a whole lot more; maybe hand tight and firm pull with a wrench. Once you're at 22 lb-ft, that's how far you tighten the nut down the shaft.
Torque specs are in this thread: https://acurazine.com/forums/3g-tl-problems-fixes-114/torque-spec-shock-assembly-3g-garage-d-091-a-633039/
As far as that top nut that holds everything together, that gets torqued to 22 lb-ft. We had to estimate it because we couldn't get a torque wrench on it while holding the shaft with the hex key.
22 lb-ft isn't a lot. It similar to the oil pan bolt, iirc. 7 - 10 lb-ft is hand tight; 15 or so is hand tight plus a light pull with a wrench. 22 isn't a whole lot more; maybe hand tight and firm pull with a wrench. Once you're at 22 lb-ft, that's how far you tighten the nut down the shaft.
Torque specs are in this thread: https://acurazine.com/forums/3g-tl-problems-fixes-114/torque-spec-shock-assembly-3g-garage-d-091-a-633039/