Ingalls rear camber kit question
#42
Desert Life Sucks!!
iTrader: (2)
Join Date: May 2011
Location: Land of Entrapment
Age: 46
Posts: 3,455
Received 673 Likes
on
500 Posts
Unfortunately the only advice I have is to order new bolts, cam washers and nuts.
Then cut the bolts out and install new ones.
This is what I had to do. There was noting happening to get the old ones out.
Then cut the bolts out and install new ones.
This is what I had to do. There was noting happening to get the old ones out.
#44
Desert Life Sucks!!
iTrader: (2)
Join Date: May 2011
Location: Land of Entrapment
Age: 46
Posts: 3,455
Received 673 Likes
on
500 Posts
Yeah I just went through this a few months ago. Good luck with pounding it out.
Some have been able to get it out. Mine didn't budge. It is just that one bolt. The body side of the toe arm. The other 3 bolts came right out.
delray acura is good to work with and they usually ship pretty fast.
Cam washer 52388-SDA-A00
nut 90216-SE0-010
adjusting bolt 52387-SDA-A00
You may not need the cam washer. But you will definately need the nuts, and bolts if you cut them.
Good luck. Die grinder and air compressor worked for me. Went through a couple blades. Or a sawzall is what some have used.
Wear safety glasses/goggles and use jack stands.
http://www.acuraoemparts.com/delray/...7&catcgry3=4DR BASE&catcgry5=REAR LOWER ARM&pp=0&np=25#Acura TL REAR LOWER ARM
If you call delray ask for PJ. She is parts lady and very knowledgeable.
Some have been able to get it out. Mine didn't budge. It is just that one bolt. The body side of the toe arm. The other 3 bolts came right out.
delray acura is good to work with and they usually ship pretty fast.
Cam washer 52388-SDA-A00
nut 90216-SE0-010
adjusting bolt 52387-SDA-A00
You may not need the cam washer. But you will definately need the nuts, and bolts if you cut them.
Good luck. Die grinder and air compressor worked for me. Went through a couple blades. Or a sawzall is what some have used.
Wear safety glasses/goggles and use jack stands.
http://www.acuraoemparts.com/delray/...7&catcgry3=4DR BASE&catcgry5=REAR LOWER ARM&pp=0&np=25#Acura TL REAR LOWER ARM
If you call delray ask for PJ. She is parts lady and very knowledgeable.
The following users liked this post:
cazio (05-21-2013)
#46
oops is that your face?
iTrader: (3)
I gotta revive this thread just to clear something up. from what I can see the silver jam nut side of the arms are closest to the body on the passenger side rear as pictured here, but what about the driver side rear? are they also closest to the body? I know this may be a stupid question but im alittle confused with the LH and RH ends from the instructions. if the silver jam nut side of the arms are LH then I'd assume on the driver side they would be closest to the tire not the body.
#49
oops is that your face?
iTrader: (3)
Instructions are in this link; they are very detailed.
https://www.ingallseng.com/Instructions/38725.pdf
https://www.ingallseng.com/Instructions/38725.pdf
#50
oops is that your face?
iTrader: (3)
I don't mind at all bro, someone else posted it in the thread and I was just using it as reference. btw thanks for the ingalls!!! I received them yesterday and built them and coated threads with anti seize. just waiting on my top hats and hardware which hopefully will ship Wednesday
The following users liked this post:
MrHeeltoe (05-23-2013)
#51
CARBON FIBER WDP TL
@mrheeltoe I installed my ingalls few weeks ago, did the alignment and after driving on the highway my rear seems to wobble from side to side. Any reason why.
#52
oops is that your face?
iTrader: (3)
https://acurazine.com/forums/3g-tl-tires-wheels-suspension-97/d-i-y-relaxing-your-suspension-bushings-887486/
#53
https://acurazine.com/forums/3g-tl-tires-wheels-suspension-97/j-power-camber-kit-review-864705/
It's about ingalls and J-Power weakness. You are just experiencing what a lot of people that can feel a car experienced.
#54
#55
Drifting
iTrader: (1)
Reviving this thread because I'm having the same issue. The photobucket images are dead now so I don't really know if this is exactly what paperboy was experiencing but I will post mine up for some input.
This is the longer toe arm at the rear of the vehicle. This is a top view looking down of where it bolts to the spindle (aka knuckle). As you can see, the rubber bushing is rubbing against the knuckle and it's not even all the way tightened down at this point. I'm worried that this is going to cause the rubber bushing to quickly fail and I definitely don't want that to happen. Any idea what the problem may be?
This is the longer toe arm at the rear of the vehicle. This is a top view looking down of where it bolts to the spindle (aka knuckle). As you can see, the rubber bushing is rubbing against the knuckle and it's not even all the way tightened down at this point. I'm worried that this is going to cause the rubber bushing to quickly fail and I definitely don't want that to happen. Any idea what the problem may be?
#56
oops is that your face?
iTrader: (3)
Reviving this thread because I'm having the same issue. The photobucket images are dead now so I don't really know if this is exactly what paperboy was experiencing but I will post mine up for some input.
This is the longer toe arm at the rear of the vehicle. This is a top view looking down of where it bolts to the spindle (aka knuckle). As you can see, the rubber bushing is rubbing against the knuckle and it's not even all the way tightened down at this point. I'm worried that this is going to cause the rubber bushing to quickly fail and I definitely don't want that to happen. Any idea what the problem may be?
This is the longer toe arm at the rear of the vehicle. This is a top view looking down of where it bolts to the spindle (aka knuckle). As you can see, the rubber bushing is rubbing against the knuckle and it's not even all the way tightened down at this point. I'm worried that this is going to cause the rubber bushing to quickly fail and I definitely don't want that to happen. Any idea what the problem may be?
#57
Moderator
Thread Starter
iTrader: (7)
yes thats the issue I was talking about in the OP. no issues, but I think thats just a design flaw that was overlooked, you can probably put a small washer to fill in the gap
The following users liked this post:
JJH (07-12-2013)
#58
installed in about 2 hours. pretty straightforward. it was as easy as the RSB.
i haven't gotten an alignment yet.
a few comments:
1. i put on more than 10K miles on my BFgoodrich with a little more than -2.0 degrees camber and i did notice the inner blocks worn down more than the rest of the tire.
2. my wheels are closer to zero camber now, and from what i can tell the fenderwell gap has increased to about the same gap as the front (eibach pro kit). wondering if anyone else has noticed this?
3. i'm thinking of replacing the cam bolt on the control arm to something more permanent since it will no longer be used for adjustments. thoughts?
4. fyi regarding adjustments: as you increase camber (more positive), wheels will toe in and vice versa.
5. loctite on the jam nuts, is it necessary?
i haven't gotten an alignment yet.
a few comments:
1. i put on more than 10K miles on my BFgoodrich with a little more than -2.0 degrees camber and i did notice the inner blocks worn down more than the rest of the tire.
2. my wheels are closer to zero camber now, and from what i can tell the fenderwell gap has increased to about the same gap as the front (eibach pro kit). wondering if anyone else has noticed this?
3. i'm thinking of replacing the cam bolt on the control arm to something more permanent since it will no longer be used for adjustments. thoughts?
4. fyi regarding adjustments: as you increase camber (more positive), wheels will toe in and vice versa.
5. loctite on the jam nuts, is it necessary?
Hi
I was curious about the second hole on the camber arm bracket that is not being used on my tl as well as in the pic . Is it possible to move my camber arm to the other hole to achieve a little more negative camber?
and
why is it there?
I have stock arms with f2 coilovers looking for just a little more negative camber for my set up ... Thank You
#59
Moderator
Thread Starter
iTrader: (7)
dont think it'll work because its moving up at the same time so you will need to extend the arm to stay at the same camber. if anything it'll probably give you less negaative camber than stock location
#60
Wobble at 60-65mph, not wheel balance issue
Hello all I been having a wobble on the highway coming from the rear it appears because there is not wobble or vibration in the steering wheel. I first suspected wheel balance but today I had that checked that the balance was slightly off but nothing that would cause the wobble. I had it corrected and test drove and the proble still remains. I called a shop about doing a alignment and when they found out they its a 05 Acura TL the shop guy started telling me that on those cars I will most likely need a kit installed to do the alignment on the rear and mentioned something about 3pcs that need to be changed cost around 600$ ouch!. I'm assuming control arms but heres my question if I were to need a alignment done if I installed the Ingalls 2 control arm kit would that allow me both toe and camber adjustments? Because with a 600$ eat if I need alignment I will install these myself and go back and get another alignment done and still be up 350$ if I were to have the shop do it. Any info would be greatly appreciated.
#61
well installed my rear camber arms and bushings egged out aready. not even 30 days in. car drives like shit and very wobbley in the rear. going back to stock arms and getting the spc kit
#62
Former Sponsor
iTrader: (1)
Hello all I been having a wobble on the highway coming from the rear it appears because there is not wobble or vibration in the steering wheel. I first suspected wheel balance but today I had that checked that the balance was slightly off but nothing that would cause the wobble. I had it corrected and test drove and the proble still remains. I called a shop about doing a alignment and when they found out they its a 05 Acura TL the shop guy started telling me that on those cars I will most likely need a kit installed to do the alignment on the rear and mentioned something about 3pcs that need to be changed cost around 600$ ouch!. I'm assuming control arms but heres my question if I were to need a alignment done if I installed the Ingalls 2 control arm kit would that allow me both toe and camber adjustments? Because with a 600$ eat if I need alignment I will install these myself and go back and get another alignment done and still be up 350$ if I were to have the shop do it. Any info would be greatly appreciated.
The camber will not cause a "wobble." Alignment will not cause a "wobble." How do the tires look? If the tires have irregular wear that could cause a vibration issue...and an alignment would fix the tire wear.
The shocks might be bad...how many miles are on those? Does the car feel tight or like a cushy pimp-mobile?
I noticed the same thing and contacted Marcus at heeltoe auto about it. he said that many others have experienced this also and not to worry that I won't cause any issues or failures. on my TL only the passenger side pinched the rubber which is kinda weird but the ingalls have been on my car for a couple months now without any issues to speak of
But case in point...squishy rubber in the bushings is by design. They are better for NVH than poly is.
Thank you!
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
Yumcha
Automotive News
2
09-04-2015 08:03 AM
nuldabz
3G TL Tires, Wheels & Suspension
3
09-03-2015 05:49 PM