MrHeeltoe

iTrader: (1)

The Ingalls rear arm kits come disassembled. In each kit are two tubes and four bushings. Take note that one arm may be longer than the other, and the bushings are all different. There are wide- and narrow- bushing collars, and silver and black nuts (signifying right- or left-hand threads).

On a 38725 kit (for the 2004-08 Acura TSX and 2004-08 TL models) I remember this phrase when assembling: “Short and fat; tall and skinny.” This helps me remember that the wider bushings go on the short arm, and the narrow ones go on the long arm.



Screwing the bushings into the tubes in is usually easy, but the threads can get hung up a but. A little extra turning force can be had using gloves instead of bare hands, but if that is not enough, you will want to inspect the threads.



We have seen threads come out of the box with pieces of slag that will prevent assembly. These bits are easily removed with a small pick.

If the kits are mishandled in shipping, a thread can become damaged. It will look like it is flattened or folded over a bit. A small file will reshape the thread and allow assembly.



If the threads on the bushings look fine, check insde the tubes for debris. You typically won’t see damage here, but slag can be a problem. Again, pick out any visible obstructions.



Some people have cited corrosion causes the bushings to seize in the arms over time. We recommend a high quality anti-seize lubricant to stave of rust.

When assembling the kit, we suggest putting the bar length to exactly the same length as the stock arms with the same amount of threads on each side of the bar. To do this, we suggest these steps:[*]Install the threaded bushings all the way against the tubes.[*]Put a bolt through both the stock arm and corresponding Ingalls arm on one side.[*]Spin the Ingalls tube while holding the opposite bushing steady. This expands both bushings out at the same rate.[*]Expand the tube until you can put another bolt through the opposing end.



Don’t tighten the jamb nuts before the arms are installed in the car. Also, we recommend doing one arm at a time. Remove and replace one, then another, then move to the other side of the car. If you remove both arms it can allow extra movement that makes it more difficult to install the Ingalls arms.

The short arm with wide bushings goes directly under the shock mounting, and the longer arm with narrow bushings is the “Toe” arm that mounts on the hub-carrier’s rearward stud. If you’ve installed the bushings on the arms correctly, you can’t mix them up. Here are torque specs if you need them.

Once installed, make sure all is tight and head off to get an alignment!

Manny2587

Thanks for the write up, just ordered these yesterday.

paperboy42190

iTrader: (7)

orientation of the arm doesnt matter right? like whether the side with the silver nut goes against the hub, or the side with the black nut.

MrHeeltoe

iTrader: (1)

You can install the arm either way. It works the same. I try to be consistent though.

alexb92

Pictures don't load.

MrHeeltoe

iTrader: (1)

That was a temporary snafu on the server. Should be there now.

alexb92

What are the torque specs? They seem to be missing from the post.

calsdad

What's the benefit of this kit (other than the ability to adjust)?

I'm looking at upgrading the suspension on my 2006 TL MT6 - and I'm wondering if this is a worthwhile upgrade if I just drive the car on the street.

One thing I've noticed with the TL is that it doesn't always feel quite as "planted" as I would like. The ability to dial in more camber would be nice if I was going to spend time on the track - but I'm not going to be doing that with the car. What I'm looking for is just the ability to maybe get a better alignment on it to make if feel better.

MrHeeltoe

iTrader: (1)

It should be noted than the Ingalls kits come with really detailed instructions that have all that information there. These are just helpful tips not included in the instructions.

The benefit is the adjustment. That is about it. The adjustment is important though! Even when driving on the street. You probably need better dampers to improve body motions. That would go a long way toward stabilizing your car in corners. More camber would add grip, but camber increases with compression, so that really would not be a benefit to you.

calsdad

Maybe I should have phrased my question differently. What I'm wondering is: If I install the Ingalls adjustable kit - will there be a benefit there because I'll be able to get a "better" alignment out of the rear of the car - which will (hopefully) allow me to make the thing "feel" a little better.

I'm familiar with adjusting the suspension for the track - in a past life I used to autocross. But what I'm looking for here is not really the ability to dial in more camber - because for street use that isn't what I need. I'm looking to maybe get a "better" alignment out of the car that just isn't available with the factory pieces.

If that makes any sense.

MrHeeltoe

iTrader: (1)

I kind of understand what you are saying...

Ultimately, you need to make sure the toe is correct and the dampers are good. A camber kit won't help with either of those.