DC2many

I have purchased new tires and looking to get a proper suitable alignment for my needs. I have driven my old tires to showing inside cable and outside is down to wear bars at the least. With being on a very tight budget already I am looking for a reasonable means for alignment since I will need to get one anyways.

How does this sound?

Camber:
-1.2 front left -1 .3 R Once I sit, should atleast add a .1
-1.1 Rear Left -1.2 R

Toe: 0 or -0.1 or -0.2 front and rear? I've heard bumps on the road or in general driving the toe will want to out more often than in. Would very slight toe in be the actual "zero" in this case? Or Just zero it out to have a more open range of transitional numbers

Suspensions are Function Form type 2 if one knows of the spring rates on these and apply it


I have spent much time on getting the height adjusted myself as close as I can with a similar weight person in driver seat car should be properly even all around fender gap wise if the camber is about the same all around on flat ground. My chassis is slightly raked forward maybe 1.0-2~ish. Fender gap is not reasonable means to gauge chassis level but it is about half a finger gap in front maybe a few hairs taller in the rear.

Daily Driver with a bit of smashing. Around 15k annual add or subtract 2k~ I'll drive for no reason other than to drive often

I don't plan to be autoX or any motorsport oriented driving for a long duration of this ownership but I do sometimes-often max out certain corners I know well

perhaps i to be a little over thinking on this :hmm:

thanks

Help appreciated, thanks.

DC2many

I need this done soon, any suspension nut want to chime in and compare/feedback?

csmeance

I would suggest getting the firestone lifetime alignment plan! It's the price of 2 alignments but allows you to get one every 6000 miles for free after the initial purchase!

As far as specs go, I'd try to call up your dealer and ask what the specs are for the A-Spec suspension since that's the factory recommendation on a slightly lowered car designed more-so for "performance" driving.

felixthecat

As long as you match the specs, it's not a big deal whether your tires have sat in or not since the specs are designed to produce even tread wear.

Here's some of the specs for a completely stock A-Spec suspension after settling down for your reference, but from your fender-to-wheel measurements, it seems like you're running a different setup.

Camber:
Front: -1.0° +/- 0.0°
Rear: -1.5° +/- -0.5°

Toe:
Front: -0.04in +/- 0.04in
Rear: -0.04in +/- 0.04in

Here are my specs with the stock A-Spec suspension and no camber kit:

Camber:
Front Left: -0.5°
Front Right: -0.6°
Rear Left: -1.0°
Rear Right: -1.3°

Toe:
Front Left: 0.00in
Front Right: 0.00in
Rear Left: -0.01in
Rear Right: 0.00in

My setup works very well for daily driving, and I haven't had any issues with it. My shop person says that for Hondas and Acuras, even a difference of 0.5° from spec camber won't affect the performance of the car, so he didn't recommend that I get a camber kit.

DC2many

Thanks for the info, looks as if I'm not too far deviated from stock alignment

I think my final may stay as is or

-1.5 all around
0 toe front
-0.1 toe rear

i'm on 255/40/17 now and visually looks more squared off due to more rubber

this is gonna look good, can't wait

I know people with my drop range static has fronts around -1.5 - 2 rears around 2.5~


good thing I have camber kit all around... the ass squat becomes more exaggerated the lower it goes

Sidenote: I've read in the past the 3G TL chassis supposedly "handles" better w/ more negative in the rear, not sure in what form that attributes to but if anyone can give an answer to that would be great too. If one knows alignment specs for the Team Honda Research is running would like to know as well