Help! Koni yellow and Type-S bushings.
#45
If you torque the top hats to spec, the spring will compress by x amout. Now put the spring on the lower perch. Torque to spec. Spring compresses the same amount, but is 10mm lower.
#46
#50
the first thing that I noticed is that steering is very responsive. Which I like. Very much.
I also noticed that my head lights dont blind any one now.
LOL before; street signs would be illuminated.
I'm not sure on whether I should take it out to the twisties or get an alignment first.
I had went back to my friends shop to install the dust boot covers. While I had the springs compressed I lowered the front shocks to the LOWEST perch.
the rears; I lowered to the 2nd lowest perch.
front - a tight 3 finger wheel gap.
rear - a tight 4 finger wheel gap.
I might drive it like this for a while and see how I like it.
then might even lower the rears to the lowest perch.
Pictures to come tomorrow.
But honestly, it looks stock! which is another plus!
I also noticed that my head lights dont blind any one now.
LOL before; street signs would be illuminated.
I'm not sure on whether I should take it out to the twisties or get an alignment first.
I had went back to my friends shop to install the dust boot covers. While I had the springs compressed I lowered the front shocks to the LOWEST perch.
the rears; I lowered to the 2nd lowest perch.
front - a tight 3 finger wheel gap.
rear - a tight 4 finger wheel gap.
I might drive it like this for a while and see how I like it.
then might even lower the rears to the lowest perch.
Pictures to come tomorrow.
But honestly, it looks stock! which is another plus!
Last edited by justnspace; 11-05-2011 at 06:50 PM.
#51
IMO, give a couple of days to "settle" (assuming there is such a thing), get the alignment, then hit the twisties.
Might look at making sure your headlights are properly adjusted/set. Although I never changed mine either; but I do think the cut-off is a little lower than originally.
Might look at making sure your headlights are properly adjusted/set. Although I never changed mine either; but I do think the cut-off is a little lower than originally.
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justnspace (11-05-2011)
The following users liked this post:
justnspace (11-05-2011)
#56
#58
haha touche
I need to buy NT05s maybe next season.
Does your car sit evenly?
My passenger side sits kinda high still even though I installed the rear passenger A-Spec.
Maybe I have to install the front passenger A-Spec to even it out better.
I need to buy NT05s maybe next season.
Does your car sit evenly?
My passenger side sits kinda high still even though I installed the rear passenger A-Spec.
Maybe I have to install the front passenger A-Spec to even it out better.
#59
Sorry, havent been keeping up with your install. you haven't done it yet?
yes, all my sides sit even.
I really did not know that was the bumpstop.
Ive done coilovers and springs and now I've done an aftermarket shock. Lessen Learned.
I might take off Monday and get this shit done once and for all!
yes, all my sides sit even.
I really did not know that was the bumpstop.
Ive done coilovers and springs and now I've done an aftermarket shock. Lessen Learned.
I might take off Monday and get this shit done once and for all!
#61
I took a stab at it today and took off the wheel and LCA through bolt.
Then tried to pry apart the "pinch" of the fork mount to take out the shock absorber but it's damn jammed with rust.
So I said eff it and gave up once again and put the LCA through bolt back on and the wheel back on.
Just had a vision after giving up, and I'll just drill out the bolt on one side to release the "pinch" (since the bolt is only threaded on one side, I can't screw up the threading).
You're so lucky you don't have to go through this lol
Yeah you'll definitely want to put the bumpstops in haha
Then tried to pry apart the "pinch" of the fork mount to take out the shock absorber but it's damn jammed with rust.
So I said eff it and gave up once again and put the LCA through bolt back on and the wheel back on.
Just had a vision after giving up, and I'll just drill out the bolt on one side to release the "pinch" (since the bolt is only threaded on one side, I can't screw up the threading).
You're so lucky you don't have to go through this lol
Yeah you'll definitely want to put the bumpstops in haha
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guitarplayer16 (11-05-2011)
#63
Ok, so I found out that I have the Koni Yellow SP3's as I have 5 perches instead of 3.
I bought them Brand new In box from a Houston member. He used to have a 3G and moved on to a 4G.
I got them for a steal!
Oh and GP16, I also am running with no back seat at the moment. could be why my rear is slightly higher than yours in addition to my tires.
I bought them Brand new In box from a Houston member. He used to have a 3G and moved on to a 4G.
I got them for a steal!
Oh and GP16, I also am running with no back seat at the moment. could be why my rear is slightly higher than yours in addition to my tires.
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justnspace (11-09-2011)
#65
SP3 have 5 perches in the rear and 3 in front, iirc. Regular set has 2 front and 3 rear perches (I thought). SP3 is also valved more aggressively.
#66
#68
the part about the missing bumpstop.
I texted I hate cars, and he ADVISED me to re-do the assembly with the bumpstop saying it will damage the shock and my car!!!!
looks like I'm taking monday off.
I texted I hate cars, and he ADVISED me to re-do the assembly with the bumpstop saying it will damage the shock and my car!!!!
looks like I'm taking monday off.
#69
Well, you can put the dust boots on then too. Just a hassle to re-do, but not a big deal.
First time we did Jon's, we put the spring perch on upside down. Raised the car about an inch. :donk:
First time we did Jon's, we put the spring perch on upside down. Raised the car about an inch. :donk:
#72
Justin, I would suggest cutting about an 1" -1.5" off the bumpstops, don't forget your drill. I know you have a spec springs, so depending on how low you want to go, kinda depends on what perch to use (SP3's do have 5 frt/rear). I have H&R sports on the second to lowest perch all around.
Last edited by Slpr04UA6; 11-07-2011 at 06:57 AM.
#75
#79
You don't. They are soft rubber and should slip right past that welded ring at the base of the threads on the shaft. The actual shock shaft is the same diameter as the Honda shock. The only difference is the diameter of the OEM one tappers down where the tophat mounts (see below).