Help with Camber Kit
#1
Instructor
Thread Starter
Help with Camber Kit
So my tires have been wearing pretty bad on the inside causing me to go through tires, actually had one pop on me on the highway the first time because I was only checking the tread at the outer edge and didn't realize at the time the inner edge had worn much faster. I got new tires and got an alignment but my rear camber was still way out of spec -2.09, seen below. They said I would need a camber kit to properly adjust it. The car is stock height by the way with 130k miles.
I was going to place an order for this camber kit link But I've been reading from heeltoe that camber shouldn't really affect tire wear but I can't imagine what else could be causing mine to wear so badly. Just wanted some advice before I spend $250 on a camber kit and alignment. Pictures below
I was going to place an order for this camber kit link But I've been reading from heeltoe that camber shouldn't really affect tire wear but I can't imagine what else could be causing mine to wear so badly. Just wanted some advice before I spend $250 on a camber kit and alignment. Pictures below
#2
Former Sponsor
Too much negative camber can cause excessive tire wear. Typically if the tires are wearing out extremely fast (within a few thousand miles) it is the toe that needs to be set, but that doesn't mean the camber won't cause issues as well. It looks like your toe is well within spec, so I'm willing to bet it is that camber that's causing the wear.
Check out the SPC rear EZ arm that allows for -2 to +4 degrees of camber adjustment.
SPC EZ Arm XR - Excelerate Performance - Japanese and European Performance Specialists!!
Check out the SPC rear EZ arm that allows for -2 to +4 degrees of camber adjustment.
SPC EZ Arm XR - Excelerate Performance - Japanese and European Performance Specialists!!
#5
Race Director
OP, do/did you have a lot of weight in the trunk/back seat when those measurements were taken? Normally, a stock suspension won't see that negative of camber, but it's possible if you are carrying a lot of weight in the rear.
If you're going to get adjustable arms, DON'T GET INGALLS!!!
Get SPC arms. Search this forum, lots of issues with Ingalls....
If you're going to get adjustable arms, DON'T GET INGALLS!!!
Get SPC arms. Search this forum, lots of issues with Ingalls....
The following 2 users liked this post by nfnsquared:
aameghoo (11-17-2015),
justnspace (11-16-2015)
#6
Instructor
Thread Starter
Maybe it is lowered? This is how I got it though so I just assumed stock, I didn't do anything to it, pics below so you guys can judge. Also the only extra weight is my 12" sub and box along with my 2 amplifiers and maybe a few random trunk junk items that don't really weigh anything.
And wow really? The ingalls are no good? Thought they were the way to go lol, I'll have to read around and see then. So you're saying the ones Excelerate posted are the ones I should get?
And wow really? The ingalls are no good? Thought they were the way to go lol, I'll have to read around and see then. So you're saying the ones Excelerate posted are the ones I should get?
#7
Instructor
sockr1 is absolutely right it's probably your suspension. And it looks to me like your at stock height. Factory suspension is usually worn down quite a bit after 130k miles. Ever considered lowering your TL at all? If I were you I would replace your stock suspension with some Tein coilovers, fine tune your drop and make those Aspec wheels look 100 times better. Probably time to replace your suspension anyway if it has been on the car for 130k miles...
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aameghoo (11-17-2015)
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#8
Instructor
Thread Starter
sockr1 is absolutely right it's probably your suspension. And it looks to me like your at stock height. Factory suspension is usually worn down quite a bit after 130k miles. Ever considered lowering your TL at all? If I were you I would replace your stock suspension with some Tein coilovers, fine tune your drop and make those Aspec wheels look 100 times better. Probably time to replace your suspension anyway if it has been on the car for 130k miles...
When you say replace my suspension are you talking about just the coilovers or are there other things I would need to do as well?
#9
Such a weird thing. I'm nearly the same camber as you, and dropped pretty far. I have no idea how you can have the negative camber you have and look nearly stock height.
My drop, for reference.
Bridge of Sighs. by Andrew Thompson, on Flickr
My drop, for reference.
Bridge of Sighs. by Andrew Thompson, on Flickr
#10
Absolutely. You need your suspension looked at. Most probably dead struts. Some inexpensive coil-overs are a good solution IMO, but it can be done cheaper if you're not looking to lower the car. You can just replace the stock struts.
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aameghoo (11-17-2015)
#11
So is it that getting the camber kit would just be a band-aid fix for another underlying problem? I do plan on getting some Tein coilovers in the future, I'm currently still in college though so that won't be until a few more months after I graduate and start working. I just ordered some DWS06 tires but I don't want them to go to waste in the meantime.
When you say replace my suspension are you talking about just the coilovers or are there other things I would need to do as well?
When you say replace my suspension are you talking about just the coilovers or are there other things I would need to do as well?
Good luck!
#12
Instructor
Thread Starter
I still have 6k miles left on my extended warranty. I'll have to see what I can get worked out. Maybe get them to do the replacement and I just pay the difference for the coilovers vs. what they would install . Any suggestion as to which direction I should go with proving what the car needs from them?
#13
Instructor
I got a good deal on my Tein's. I'm dropped on Tein street basis which are entry level coilovers and I love them. I think I only paid $550 shipped. Very easy on the wallet compared to some of the other coilovers out there. The real money saver though is going to be installing them yourself. Get some buddies together on a weekend and have fun with it. That's what I did. If not you are looking at like $800 in labor.
#14
Instructor
I still have 6k miles left on my extended warranty. I'll have to see what I can get worked out. Maybe get them to do the replacement and I just pay the difference for the coilovers vs. what they would install . Any suggestion as to which direction I should go with proving what the car needs from them?
#15
I still have 6k miles left on my extended warranty. I'll have to see what I can get worked out. Maybe get them to do the replacement and I just pay the difference for the coilovers vs. what they would install . Any suggestion as to which direction I should go with proving what the car needs from them?
#16
Instructor
Thread Starter
I got a good deal on my Tein's. I'm dropped on Tein street basis which are entry level coilovers and I love them. I think I only paid $550 shipped. Very easy on the wallet compared to some of the other coilovers out there. The real money saver though is going to be installing them yourself. Get some buddies together on a weekend and have fun with it. That's what I did. If not you are looking at like $800 in labor.
Ok so I'll use my camber being out of spec after multiple alignments as my main point. The thing I'm hoping is that they don't decide to just slap a camber kit on it as a "fix". I'm going to bring it in to a dealer next week to try my luck. I'll wait to put on my new tires, at least I'll have them on hand if I do get a flat though.
It's a third party, they're pretty good though. I've got about 3k worth of work done from them all at Acura dealerships too
#17
Safety Car
iTrader: (5)
you can install coilovers completely by yourself, you don't need anyone. i've done two sets on my own. there's a good DIY in the garage
The following users liked this post:
aameghoo (11-17-2015)
#18
I still have 6k miles left on my extended warranty. I'll have to see what I can get worked out. Maybe get them to do the replacement and I just pay the difference for the coilovers vs. what they would install . Any suggestion as to which direction I should go with proving what the car needs from them?
#19
Race Director
Before you go to your insurance blaming your issue on bad OEM struts, you may want to be sure they are indeed OEM....
The following users liked this post:
aameghoo (11-17-2015)
#20
Instructor
Thread Starter
the advance are completely worth the extra 90...they give you complete control of how soft or how stiff you want to run your car. with the basis you get whatever they come set for. everyone's preference is different so i'm sure you have a different preference for stiff/soft than the TEIN engineer, so just pay the extra 90 and have that full control
you can install coilovers completely by yourself, you don't need anyone. i've done two sets on my own. there's a good DIY in the garage
you can install coilovers completely by yourself, you don't need anyone. i've done two sets on my own. there's a good DIY in the garage
Yeah I'll probably double check to try and have an idea. I'm pretty sure though with my warranty company as long as it was a suitable OEM replacement (not coilovers or something that lowered the car), it's fair game. Now that I think about it, if they do decide to replace the struts I'll probably have to do OEM replacements as to not lose the warranty on my suspension related parts. Although with only 6k miles left to go I probably might as well
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