mattyd6911

I have an 04 TL A/T base, and want to upgrade my front sway bar. I upgraded the back to a Progress bar, and the front feels kind of sloppy. What would be the stiffest front sway bar from other models that would fit my car? Id like to go with a type s bar, but dont know if the year and model difference would fit. Could someone give some input on this?

Excelerate

iTrader: (1)

The H&R FSB is going to be the stiffest on the market.

http://store.excelerateperformance.c.../i-539537.aspx

It's 28mm and adjustable.

justnspace

iTrader: (1)

^Josh is on point as always.


the stiffest OEM bar is the 07-08 type-s.
this goes for both front and rear.

and will fit all 04-08 TL's

mattyd6911

Ive been fighting a vibration and sloppy feeling in the front for a long time. I have 177k miles, but replaced all front control arms, oem springs, tokico struts, steering rack & pump, tires, end-links, bushings, etc. Still have a floating feeling and vibration up front. Could the lack of a better front sway bar up front cause this? Any other ideas would be very appreciated.

mattyd6911

What is the part # of the stiffest OEM sway bar that will fit an 04 A/T ?

mattyd6911

Anyone know the part # of the stiffest OEM sway bar that will fit an 04 A/T ?

FCVadi

iTrader: (3)

I would say check out this site to look up a 07-08 Type-S bar..
http://www.acuraoemparts.com/delray/jsp/home.jsp

but if you are buying new then take a look at what Josh/XLR8 stated as well.. i havent gone wrong with his recommendations yet

one thing to point out though is if you are going to do a DIY then it is a little bit more complicated than a rear sway bar DIY

Excelerate

iTrader: (1)

I have to be on point to post before you guys.

Thank you.

Dylan Tvrdy

hook me up i need new back sway bar.

Excelerate

iTrader: (1)

Good in stock.

http://store.excelerateperformance.c.../i-225595.aspx

mattyd6911

Is it really a good idea to go with the stiffest one? Does anyone have a DIY of some sort for replacing the front bar? Im not quite sure how to approach it..

TLtrigirl

iTrader: (1)

front sway bar requires the subframe to be dropped. this is one of the reasons why it isn't done very frequently. it's a PITA to install.

mattyd6911

How many hours do you think a shop would charge for it? If I had a DIY, I could probably do it myself..

TLtrigirl

iTrader: (1)

i have no idea.

IHC did this mod, it took him ALL night without a lift. he thought it would be easy, but realized part of the way through that he had to drop the sub frame. he had to finish the job b/c he needed his car. there might be a DIY somewhere on here.

the RSB mod as you know was easy. 45-60 min tops (though some members had end links that fought back which quadrupled their install time).

is your suspension modded by chance?

I hate cars

There's a ton of info on sizing of swaybars on this site.

A swaybar won't cause or fix a vibration.

TLtrigirl

iTrader: (1)

^^ speaking of the devil...

I hate cars

How did you know my name?

I thought I had replied in this thread a while ago. And I did but I didn't realize all of those threads I've accidentally unsubscribed from because the touchscreen sucks on my Droid, it removes my posts as well.

Bearcat94

I was just gonna ask about this. Not sure that the OP changing the FSB is going to fix his issue. Seems more like shocks, bushings, etc. Or maybe something in the PS assembly (rack?).

TLtrigirl

iTrader: (1)

i believe i saw the OP started threads on his suspension as well...so i'm not sure if he's trying to fix something, upgrade something, or both. he hasn't told us what he his goal was to change out the FSB. the implication is that he's trying to fix something by changing the FSB.

KzooTL

Yeah dealer wants 600+, the manual calls for dropping the subframe, which means having to support the engine from up top. So renting a cherry picker or buying the recommended engine support braces. I've been toying around with the idea for sometime as i have the h&r front bar sitting in garage.

If you do it yourself take pictures and make a diy as it seems like a pain in the ass the first time around.

I hate cars

You don't have to support the engine from up top. I thought you did but it's not dropping out of there, trust me. I also did not remove all subframe bolts either, I just lowered it. The job would probably be 2x as quick if you did drop the subframe completely.... or had sunlight....or sleep.

Bearcat94

So if you had ALL of those, the FSB would practically change itself.

lilsid112

iTrader: (7)

A buddy and I tackled the FSB and it took us sometime to get it done. I upgraded to the Type S bar which needed to upgrade the end links to 10mm to 12mm. Which I need to drill out the lca hole to 12mm. Theres no need to drop the subframe as IHC stated. Just back out about 1/2in of the screw to give you some leverage. It was a PITA trying to get the new bar in and screw the clamps for the bushings back in. All in all, it took a few hours to do the swap with a jack and stands.

mattyd6911

Does the type-s bar make a pretty good difference over the stock A/T hollow bar? What is the correct OEM part # of the best one for my 04 auto? 51300-sep-a21??

I hate cars

Sorry but I'm out of this one. There's just too much info and too many reviews that people have taken a lot of time to type up that you need to search for. There are detailed reviews of every swaybar setup. You have 2 FSB threads, 2 spring/shock threads, and 2 axle threads open at the moment.

I hate cars

It would be a lot easier for sure. I got hung up with trying to twist and maneuver the swaybar into position with the subframe lowered but not off. I could have knocked a ton of time off if I had just dropped the subframe completely or at least lowered it more..... and the fact that the instructions or the sticker were on the wrong side so following the instructions meant the bar would be upside down. I tried to picture it in my head and the instructions seemed wrong but I tried to get it in there for about an hour before I finally flipped it the right way.

rockstar143

iTrader: (6)

^^^So what you're saying is...search?

Just hearing what a PITA from you seasoned vets tells me this is something I will never want to tackle.

I hate cars

Pretty much. I mean, I could say yes, there is a big difference from a 5at bar to a Type S but there are so many other factors involved that I like to include an explanation. I've written that explanation way too many times so I figure why should myself and others continue to post the same detailed, long winded stuff when the person asking won't take the time to search which would take about as long as me writing it out again.

But yeah, if you have half a day you can definitely do it. It's really not hard, just a little time consuming. I don't recommend doing it on your back. You could knock a TON of time off of what it took me with a lift and maybe a helper. I honestly think I could do it in under an hour right now. It's basically the same as the RSB except you're lowering the subframe and there's a little more fishing to get it in there. The part that sucks is the alignment that's required afterwards.

rockstar143

iTrader: (6)

^^^Yeah, that's the killer for me too...just got an alignment done again.

I feel you Matt...I'm starting that transition from Noob that asks a bunch of questions, rather than just searching and getting in there and doing it yourself.

I don't know whether to laugh or cry from the multiple PM's asking "will this set up work". It makes me feel like "why the fk did I make a DIY, with pictures and also update my build thread, and answer the same question in other threads 10 different times". It's kinda insulting, almost.

mattyd6911

Hey Rockstar, do you have Tein ss springs, or coilovers?

mattyd6911

Do I need to replace the end links when upgrading to a type-s FSB? I have Moog end links at the moment on the regular base sway bar..

rockstar143

iTrader: (6)

I have Tein SS springs.

justnspace

iTrader: (1)

if they are not bad, and dont have MAJOR play in them, why would you replace them?

mattyd6911

They are basically new. I thought there was some sort of length or hole size difference..?? If they are the same, great...

lilsid112

iTrader: (7)

You would need to replace them due to the type s sway bar requires a 12mm end links compared to the base 10mm.

mattyd6911

12mm being the bolt holes??

mattyd6911

Are the bolts on the end links bigger themselves?

Slpr04UA6

^

Maybe rereading it will help? Everything was posted above that you would have to replace, and what to drill! If you try searching for sway bars for Acura TL, you will find everything you need to know.

You might have been better of starting 1 thread like another member here, either in prob/fixes subforum or here,with all your questions/upgrades and maybe requesting a link to some more reading material. ?

rockstar143

iTrader: (6)

Also, there is an edit button that allows you to add to your post within 15 minutes.

lilsid112

iTrader: (7)

Correct to both of these. The bolt holes on the stock arm is 10mm unlike the type s which are 12. Having the bigger bolt on the end links requires you to drill out the LCA from 10 to a 12.