I hate cars

Body roll doesn't hurt handling that bad so the goal isn't to completely eliminate body roll on a street car. Most importantly is to retain enough suspension travel by not lowering it too much and get a good handling balance where the front and rear ends break free at about the same point.

Putting the rear bar in firm might mean less body roll but it will also mean the rear end will slide out sooner than the front. It will most likely do that in the soft setting anyway but it will lower the rear end's grip even more in the firm setting.

On sticky tires mine has a little more body roll than I like. I have to drive it differently, trying to be smoother on turn-in and transitions than if it had no body roll. As long as it's not leaning enough to hit the bump stops, you're not losing much if anything in steady state cornering vs a TL with no body roll.

If you have a safe place to take it, try some corners until you hit the limit. Either the front end will push wide or the rear end will slide out. If the front pushes, stiffen the RSB. If the rear slides, soften the RSB. Most likely it will be quickest with the RSB in the soft position.

paperboy42190

iTrader: (7)

Chad is stupid

I hate cars

Copy and post this on Corvette Forum. I think I have an old membership over there as well. There are enough people that actually race their cars and know suspension and the importance of tires over there that you will be proved ignorant as always.

I don't care if your aspec TL is "floaty". That tells me nothing of the handling and our cars have nothing in common. . I no longer have any aspec components and the Konis take care of the floaty feeling. I've also got around 1000% more swaybar stiffness than you do along with track days to tune it all so please don't mention our cars in the same sentence. My car still has more roll than a stock Z06 but with the negative suspension gain when it's cornering at its limit keeping the tires flat on the pavement and a vastly superior tire, I can carry more speed in the corners and brake later than my buddies Vette. . As I said the dynamics between the two cars are vastly different with the Vette being superior in just about every way but steady state cornering MY TL wins. Not your TL or the vast majority of TLs. Put the Vette on equal tire and the results would probably be different. If I said what my friend does for a living it would make sense how we get so much "testing" time besides track time but I'm not about to throw him under the bus to feed a troll.

So here it is Chad, explain why this can't happen in your engineering terms (lol) or go away. Post this on the Corvette board and send me the link, ill have this same discussion over there. It's not like my results are not repeatable. Steady state cornering assuming a halfway competent suspension is 90% tires. Prove me wrong. You haven't even quantified "better handling" except "floaty" vs "non floaty". Maybe it's you that's floaty. Ill get as deep into this technically as you want to go but I think you know from the past you'll get ripped a new one so your probably best sticking with your off topic bong comments in an attempt to cover up your ignorance. It's easy to sit on the sidelines in your cheer leading uniform (I've seen your girlish figure, you might be pretty hot with a little makeup and a short skirt) and talk shit about what you can't do after bolting on a couple parts and driving around town aggressively but stick with the cheerleading from the sidelines, leave it up to the big boys to do the real testing and R&D on these setups.

Chad05TL

If I replace the rack and pinion at the same time as the FSB then will I still need to drop the front sub-frame..

I hate cars

How many different threads are you going to ask the same question?

Chad05TL

just enough to where someone will reply. You never know who knows the answer..

I hate cars

Since you're replacing the rack anyway I would definitely give it a shot without dropping the subframe. I've never heard of anyone doing this so you might be the first.


The only downside is both the rack and swaybar are easier with the subframe dropped. But like I said in the other thread, you leave two bolts in the subframe and bolt it all back up when you're done. As long as you take it in for an alignment, you don't have to worry if the subframe is out of alignment because the shop will catch it if it is and align it for you. You can drop the whole engine/trans/subframe assembly down pretty far without hurting anything. You still have a mount holding everything in position that's not bolted to the subframe so it's not going to get away from you.

Chad05TL

@ 7:50 he had no support on the subframe and even pried down he said. interesting video

ALEX420CLARK3

Hey bro could i get your instagram or something i wanna ask you some stuff?