Function/Form Type 1 coilovers on 04+ TL ___my opinon___
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Function/Form Type 1 coilovers on 04+ TL ___my opinon___
NOTE: The information given below is only MY opinion. I am not liable to anything that happens if you decide to take the same route I did. Also, I'm sure I'm missing some info on other coilover kits, prices, models, functions, etc...But this is just the basic foundation of what I see, read, hear, etc..
Everybody knows that there aren't many coilover companies that manufacture FULL damper systems for our cars. There's TEIN Basic of course, which I've noticed to be pretty common on Acurazine, Megans (Which I believe is the best bang for your buck), Ground Control/Koni set up, and a few more.
I used to have TEIN Basic on one of my older cars and the one thing I didn't like much was the fact that you have to transfer your top hats as well as lose a significant amount of suspension travel if you want to "slam" your car. The same applies to the Ground Control/Koni set up. Although I would much prefer the GC/Koni over TEIN Basic, the idea of transfering the top hats would be a good enough reason to go with the Megans (full assembly) + you get the benefits of adjusting your "stiffness" just like the Koni's, but a wider range of adjustments. Quality and ride comfort between the GC/Koni and Megans is probably debatable of course. Keep in mind that this is all suspension on a budget. I'm sure ther are coilover kits that are way better than what I've talked about, but also at least x2 the cost as well for nearly the same results.
My GF picked up Function/Form coilovers for her car and we were VERY satisfied with the quality, adjustability (ride height), and best of all - the price. She got Type-1's which was more that good enough at the time. There was a small modification that was needed in the rear since it was an 03 Accord application, but it was no big deal. The ride was great and we got full suspension travel while having it at the desired height.
From what I was reading on this forum, I found out that the 03 Accord application coilovers will fit our cars and more importantly, Function/Form's would as well. The only downfall with the Fucntion/Form's is that I would need to transfer the FRONT OEM tophats from my OEM suspension and put them on the Function/Form suspension since the front strut bar studs were different. Don't quote me on this, but I'm sure you can find a way to use the top hats that came with the Fucntion/Form coilovers and from what I've read, you'd need to drill a new hole in the front strut tower, but I can't be positive about that.
So with the information gathered, I decided to try it out on the TL. My GF wanted Function/Form Type 2 (32 way adjustable dampening) so what better time to take the Type 1's off her hand, right?
Prior to the install, I also bought the Skunk 2 upper A-arm camber kit for the TSX application since I read on HeeToeAuto that it fits perfect. It is true - they fit perfect. Even the ABS line mounting points fit on target.
Despite the negativity of SPC and their rear camber kits for the TL, I went with them anyway. I took my chances without regard of the rear ball joints wearing out quick (or so they say...). Plus, it doesn't hurt if you can get it for a really good price as well.
On Christmas day, my GF and I decided to swap suspension. It was a real pain in the ass because we had to take off her old Type 1's, install the Type 2's, remove my OEM front suspension (a-arms as well for the camber kit) and swap the top hats. NOTE: IF anyone decides to do this, remember to transfer the busing and rod insert from off the Function/Form top hats and put them in your OEM top hats. IF you do not do this, you will only be able to get 2-3 turns MAX after puting the OEM hats on the Function/Form coilovers. After I transferred those bushing and rod inserts (if that's what you even want to call them), everything was perfect and the front installation was a breeze.
I did have trouble removing the OEM suspension from the rear though. Besides the rear camber kit, it was a pain in the ass to get the rear seats off. I was stuck for almost an hour trying to figure out how to get bolt "C" out from the rear seat. I had no idea how to get to it since the repair manual has illustrations that a 2 year old kid can draw out.
The rear suspension went in perfect. No modifications needed.
I was able to adjust my height without losing the travel that the suspension gives. Although I cannot adjust the dampening, I was more than satisfied.
I told Preston at Function/Form about the compatibility with the top hats and they'll be coming out with a TL specific model soon.
For the money, I strongly believe that Function/Form is the bang for your buck - even over the Megans. For about $500 bucks or so, you can get Type 1s, which is "almost" a full assembled suspension that is shock height adjustable and the TEIN Basic can't offer that. Not trying to knock on TEIN, but it's just a fact.
Cliff notes:
- Function/Form coilovers fit the 04+ TL if you use your stock front OEM top hat. The rear fit with ease and no other modifications are needed.
Here is a pic of my car after the install and alignment.
![](http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y213/aL8eR7/IMG_3542.jpg)
![](http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y213/aL8eR7/IMG_3525.jpg)
my camber setting is as follows:
F: -1.8*
R: -2.0*
0.00 TOE all around
Rolled rear fenders
Slightly pulled front fenders
Ride quality is better than OEM IMO. It could be because my OEM suspension also has 77K + miles...
Everybody knows that there aren't many coilover companies that manufacture FULL damper systems for our cars. There's TEIN Basic of course, which I've noticed to be pretty common on Acurazine, Megans (Which I believe is the best bang for your buck), Ground Control/Koni set up, and a few more.
I used to have TEIN Basic on one of my older cars and the one thing I didn't like much was the fact that you have to transfer your top hats as well as lose a significant amount of suspension travel if you want to "slam" your car. The same applies to the Ground Control/Koni set up. Although I would much prefer the GC/Koni over TEIN Basic, the idea of transfering the top hats would be a good enough reason to go with the Megans (full assembly) + you get the benefits of adjusting your "stiffness" just like the Koni's, but a wider range of adjustments. Quality and ride comfort between the GC/Koni and Megans is probably debatable of course. Keep in mind that this is all suspension on a budget. I'm sure ther are coilover kits that are way better than what I've talked about, but also at least x2 the cost as well for nearly the same results.
My GF picked up Function/Form coilovers for her car and we were VERY satisfied with the quality, adjustability (ride height), and best of all - the price. She got Type-1's which was more that good enough at the time. There was a small modification that was needed in the rear since it was an 03 Accord application, but it was no big deal. The ride was great and we got full suspension travel while having it at the desired height.
From what I was reading on this forum, I found out that the 03 Accord application coilovers will fit our cars and more importantly, Function/Form's would as well. The only downfall with the Fucntion/Form's is that I would need to transfer the FRONT OEM tophats from my OEM suspension and put them on the Function/Form suspension since the front strut bar studs were different. Don't quote me on this, but I'm sure you can find a way to use the top hats that came with the Fucntion/Form coilovers and from what I've read, you'd need to drill a new hole in the front strut tower, but I can't be positive about that.
So with the information gathered, I decided to try it out on the TL. My GF wanted Function/Form Type 2 (32 way adjustable dampening) so what better time to take the Type 1's off her hand, right?
Prior to the install, I also bought the Skunk 2 upper A-arm camber kit for the TSX application since I read on HeeToeAuto that it fits perfect. It is true - they fit perfect. Even the ABS line mounting points fit on target.
Despite the negativity of SPC and their rear camber kits for the TL, I went with them anyway. I took my chances without regard of the rear ball joints wearing out quick (or so they say...). Plus, it doesn't hurt if you can get it for a really good price as well.
On Christmas day, my GF and I decided to swap suspension. It was a real pain in the ass because we had to take off her old Type 1's, install the Type 2's, remove my OEM front suspension (a-arms as well for the camber kit) and swap the top hats. NOTE: IF anyone decides to do this, remember to transfer the busing and rod insert from off the Function/Form top hats and put them in your OEM top hats. IF you do not do this, you will only be able to get 2-3 turns MAX after puting the OEM hats on the Function/Form coilovers. After I transferred those bushing and rod inserts (if that's what you even want to call them), everything was perfect and the front installation was a breeze.
I did have trouble removing the OEM suspension from the rear though. Besides the rear camber kit, it was a pain in the ass to get the rear seats off. I was stuck for almost an hour trying to figure out how to get bolt "C" out from the rear seat. I had no idea how to get to it since the repair manual has illustrations that a 2 year old kid can draw out.
The rear suspension went in perfect. No modifications needed.
I was able to adjust my height without losing the travel that the suspension gives. Although I cannot adjust the dampening, I was more than satisfied.
I told Preston at Function/Form about the compatibility with the top hats and they'll be coming out with a TL specific model soon.
For the money, I strongly believe that Function/Form is the bang for your buck - even over the Megans. For about $500 bucks or so, you can get Type 1s, which is "almost" a full assembled suspension that is shock height adjustable and the TEIN Basic can't offer that. Not trying to knock on TEIN, but it's just a fact.
Cliff notes:
- Function/Form coilovers fit the 04+ TL if you use your stock front OEM top hat. The rear fit with ease and no other modifications are needed.
Here is a pic of my car after the install and alignment.
![](http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y213/aL8eR7/IMG_3542.jpg)
![](http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y213/aL8eR7/IMG_3525.jpg)
my camber setting is as follows:
F: -1.8*
R: -2.0*
0.00 TOE all around
Rolled rear fenders
Slightly pulled front fenders
Ride quality is better than OEM IMO. It could be because my OEM suspension also has 77K + miles...
Last edited by al8er7; 12-30-2009 at 09:16 PM.
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I had no idea F&F's could fit on the 3G! Awesome write up about everything. Your car looks sick! WDP FTW
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#5
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Great job man...Looks good.
I have Tein SS's and I def. wasn't happy about having to swap out tops...but I'm more than happy with the suspension after 14K miles. At $500 though...hard to complain!
About your camber...I DON'T have a camber kit, and am tucking top of tire and my camber reads similar to yours...
-1.3 front and -2.1 rear. Strange.
All that aside...looks GREAT brother!
I have Tein SS's and I def. wasn't happy about having to swap out tops...but I'm more than happy with the suspension after 14K miles. At $500 though...hard to complain!
About your camber...I DON'T have a camber kit, and am tucking top of tire and my camber reads similar to yours...
-1.3 front and -2.1 rear. Strange.
All that aside...looks GREAT brother!
#7
Looks good. But yea, surprised that people are just finding out about Honda/Acura suspension compatibility, this has been known for a while on Honda forums (such as 6GA). Function Forms are really good, get really great reviews on 6GA. I'm looking to score a set off a TL owner here.
5th Gen Accord = 1G TL/CL (Mike ^correct me if I'm wrong on that one)
6th Gen Accord = 2G TL/CL, and 3G (only difference is top hats as well I think)
7th Gen Accord = 3G TL
5th Gen Accord = 1G TL/CL (Mike ^correct me if I'm wrong on that one)
6th Gen Accord = 2G TL/CL, and 3G (only difference is top hats as well I think)
7th Gen Accord = 3G TL
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#9
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Thanks guys. Being a new TL owner, I didn't know much about compatibility either but I've been a Honda owner for about 14 years and one thing I've learned is that so many parts are interchangable. With that info, I started doing some research and in fact, did find out that the 03+ Accord/TSX application would fit with "minor modificatinos".
Rockstar143 - I think that if I didn't have a camber kit, it might read similar to yours as well but I wanted my camber to certain specs on all 4 corners, TOE included. I did however, notice that the Skunk2 front camber kit won't allow any more camber. I actually wanted -2.0 all around but I was told that it wouldn't allow anymore camber than that. After removing the wheel and seeing it for myself, I was a bit disappointed to say the least, but at least both sides were even and -1.8 is pretty close to -2.0 so I was ok with that. So for those who are interested, remember that even the Skunk 2 arms for the TSX fit the TL, the TSX can easily go -2.5 while it will most likely max out at -1.8 or so on the TL.
SJO- Wheel specs if I remember correctly are:
Front - 18x8.5 +31 215/40
Rear - 18x9.5 +28 225/40
I'll have to confirm this since they were my GF's wheels.
I'm running a 5mm spacer in the rear with a 15mm in the front (after those pictures were taken) so the front is a bit more flush but I'm having issues with rubbing on the front bumper since the fenders are pulled. I will be working on that part today and hopefully getting rid of that issue.
Rockstar143 - I think that if I didn't have a camber kit, it might read similar to yours as well but I wanted my camber to certain specs on all 4 corners, TOE included. I did however, notice that the Skunk2 front camber kit won't allow any more camber. I actually wanted -2.0 all around but I was told that it wouldn't allow anymore camber than that. After removing the wheel and seeing it for myself, I was a bit disappointed to say the least, but at least both sides were even and -1.8 is pretty close to -2.0 so I was ok with that. So for those who are interested, remember that even the Skunk 2 arms for the TSX fit the TL, the TSX can easily go -2.5 while it will most likely max out at -1.8 or so on the TL.
SJO- Wheel specs if I remember correctly are:
Front - 18x8.5 +31 215/40
Rear - 18x9.5 +28 225/40
I'll have to confirm this since they were my GF's wheels.
I'm running a 5mm spacer in the rear with a 15mm in the front (after those pictures were taken) so the front is a bit more flush but I'm having issues with rubbing on the front bumper since the fenders are pulled. I will be working on that part today and hopefully getting rid of that issue.
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myron - Type II's are more expensive due to the dampening adjustability. I'm not sure how much they go for, but weksos is a pretty good distributor for Function/Form. You might want to check out their prices. From what I know, their prices are pretty good.
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joel903 (01-25-2013)
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It all depends on your specialist. I go to JC Autohouse here in Temple City, CA. I'd say he's by far - the best. Many SoCal people may know him as well.
It's pretty difficult if you're going to do it yourself though. There are 4 allen bolts that need to be loosened up so you can slide it. The hardest part is getting to it I believe. Because the front shock is so short, when the car lifts off the ground, it only allows a 3" gap or so between the top and the tire to the edge of the fender. So accessability is very limited since there's little to no room.
What my alignment guy did is he lifted the front of the car to get the load off the wheels. He made the adjustments on the arm and lowered the car (loaded). That pretty much gave him a general idea of where the camber is setting at. And from there, it was the same routine over and over until he knew where it had to be to get -1.8 degrees once the car was on the ground (Since the camber goes to the positive side when it's off the ground or raised). He did this to both sides which took about 20 minutes.
It's pretty difficult if you're going to do it yourself though. There are 4 allen bolts that need to be loosened up so you can slide it. The hardest part is getting to it I believe. Because the front shock is so short, when the car lifts off the ground, it only allows a 3" gap or so between the top and the tire to the edge of the fender. So accessability is very limited since there's little to no room.
What my alignment guy did is he lifted the front of the car to get the load off the wheels. He made the adjustments on the arm and lowered the car (loaded). That pretty much gave him a general idea of where the camber is setting at. And from there, it was the same routine over and over until he knew where it had to be to get -1.8 degrees once the car was on the ground (Since the camber goes to the positive side when it's off the ground or raised). He did this to both sides which took about 20 minutes.
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If you go into Dave & Busters, you'll see the huge Gorilla hanging in the prize redeeming area..My GF decided to spend 8k tickets on it. We had a hard time getting it in the car that we really never bothered taking it out until I realized that people would give this weird look as they pass me... Great gift though. lol.
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When you switch any suspension component(s), you should get a 4 wheel alignment. 99% of Hondas do not have camber adjustments so unless you get a camber kit, you're only going to be able to adjust your TOE, which is most crucial to tire wear.
#20
Three Wheelin'
Nice. Your the second person on here that I have seen do this. What are the spring rates and hows the ride feel? Its better than oem but how does it handle bumps and so on. I am looking for a stiffer suspension I dont mind if it rattles your teeth out but if you can just let us know a little more in depth how it rides I might have to consider a set if not the megans.
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It's really hard to say. I think it all varies on the car and what one person's preference and experience is with one type of suspension.
Personally, for the TL, I'd want it as smooth as possible. I'm not into having stiff suspension anymore because I've had it on my past cars so I was really looking into something smooth that will allow to lower the car a significant amount while still having full shock travel. If you're looking for stiffness, Type-1's are definitely not the ones for you. The ride is extremely smooth and you would seriously have to sit in the car yourself to because it's not describable.
However, since the car is low, the upper a-arm actually maxes out and hits the shock tower before the suspension loses travel so I'm going to say that IF the car were at a higher height, the ride would be PERFECT.
Over bumps, it's not a "ka-boom" sound granted you have the experience to drive a lowered car. I hear a click sound from the front upper control arm hitting the tower every now and then but on small bumps, the feel is real solid which is what I appreciate about this dampening. Keep in mind that all this clicking sound would be completely eliminated if the car were higher.
If you want teeth chattering, then I'd recommend F2 Type-2's or Megans. I don't have personal experience with Megan's, but I have a few friends who have them on different cars and they seem to like it. My GF has Type-2's on her TSX and she's happy with it as well so I don't think you can go wrong either way although I would be biased to go with the F2's. I guess it's just a name thing but I'd rather say I have F2's than to say I have Megans even though both are equally good and the best bang for your buck type of deal.
Personally, for the TL, I'd want it as smooth as possible. I'm not into having stiff suspension anymore because I've had it on my past cars so I was really looking into something smooth that will allow to lower the car a significant amount while still having full shock travel. If you're looking for stiffness, Type-1's are definitely not the ones for you. The ride is extremely smooth and you would seriously have to sit in the car yourself to because it's not describable.
However, since the car is low, the upper a-arm actually maxes out and hits the shock tower before the suspension loses travel so I'm going to say that IF the car were at a higher height, the ride would be PERFECT.
Over bumps, it's not a "ka-boom" sound granted you have the experience to drive a lowered car. I hear a click sound from the front upper control arm hitting the tower every now and then but on small bumps, the feel is real solid which is what I appreciate about this dampening. Keep in mind that all this clicking sound would be completely eliminated if the car were higher.
If you want teeth chattering, then I'd recommend F2 Type-2's or Megans. I don't have personal experience with Megan's, but I have a few friends who have them on different cars and they seem to like it. My GF has Type-2's on her TSX and she's happy with it as well so I don't think you can go wrong either way although I would be biased to go with the F2's. I guess it's just a name thing but I'd rather say I have F2's than to say I have Megans even though both are equally good and the best bang for your buck type of deal.
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If you go into Dave & Busters, you'll see the huge Gorilla hanging in the prize redeeming area..My GF decided to spend 8k tickets on it. We had a hard time getting it in the car that we really never bothered taking it out until I realized that people would give this weird look as they pass me... Great gift though. lol.
double lulz
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function form type 1 on eGay $630 ( must search accord 03 function form )
function form type 2 on eBay $1035 (they'll come up with the above search)
ps. OP... SLAMMING SLAMMED
function form type 2 on eBay $1035 (they'll come up with the above search)
ps. OP... SLAMMING SLAMMED
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#29
Three Wheelin'
Thanks. The Type I's do look nice I was thinkin about gettin a set for my accord instead of the basic...But unfortunately they were released after I bought the basics for my old car. I might looks into the type II's if not the Megan's. Thanks again man and btw if I havent mentioned...Car looks great.
#30
To the OP, you have got me very interested in these, mainly because of price!
Can you elaborate a little more on what you had to do to fit the fronts? Was swapping the top hats trivial?
And the rears, you just slide the whole set-up right in, correct? No need to change top hats or anything... Is that right?
Thanks!!!
Can you elaborate a little more on what you had to do to fit the fronts? Was swapping the top hats trivial?
And the rears, you just slide the whole set-up right in, correct? No need to change top hats or anything... Is that right?
Thanks!!!
#35
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Can anyone describe how firm the ride is with the Type 1's? Will my teeth rattle out? Will the car bounce as bad as stock 04-06 suspension? If possible any stock vehicle ride you can compare it too? I would love something a hair firmer then my 08 STi, but I don't want to lose all comfort with coilovers. I'm stuck between these and the Neuspeed Cup Kit w/ Sport Springs...
#36
Can anyone describe how firm the ride is with the Type 1's? Will my teeth rattle out? Will the car bounce as bad as stock 04-06 suspension? If possible any stock vehicle ride you can compare it too? I would love something a hair firmer then my 08 STi, but I don't want to lose all comfort with coilovers. I'm stuck between these and the Neuspeed Cup Kit w/ Sport Springs...
the ride is much more solid than stock, but not bouncy or harshly stiff. i love mine. and im slammed to the ground.
#38
Which spring rates did you guys go with? I used to have Tein Basic's on my old Benzo, and liked the ride, but as mentioned before, there was not enough travel for the shocks.
I'd like something similar to that quality/feel of the Basic's, but I doubt the Accord will ever handle as good as my old car did.
I'd like something similar to that quality/feel of the Basic's, but I doubt the Accord will ever handle as good as my old car did.
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Are there markings on these coilovers to show how low you are going from stock height position? I hate to set it up several times to figure out the heights if someone has already measured the thread distances. I just purchased these and awaiting them in the mail. Id like to preset the height to about 1.5 inches all around. Thanks!
Last edited by z-man!!!; 05-20-2010 at 01:41 PM. Reason: spelling