Drilled and slotted rotors
#1
Drilled and slotted rotors
Ok guy i installed my r1 concept premium drilled an slotted rotors with stop tech street performance brakes pads and the car seems to stop better with oem. so i bled the system it its still sucks i think it also squeaks from the front help me please really dissappointed .
#3
brake lube? on the pads? last i checked the only thing that needs lubricant when doing a brake job are the caliper pins...
READ:
http://www.heeltoeauto.com/pitboard/?p=499
READ:
http://www.heeltoeauto.com/pitboard/?p=499
#4
brake lube? on the pads? last i checked the only thing that needs lubricant when doing a brake job are the caliper pins...
READ:
http://www.heeltoeauto.com/pitboard/?p=499
READ:
http://www.heeltoeauto.com/pitboard/?p=499
#5
What are you expecting to gain by replacing pads and rotors?
Stopping distance is determined by the tires, not the brakes.
You're not going to significantly alter brake feel without a different caliper and stainless lines.
You don't want the car to stop easier by swapping front pads and rotors because that would mean you just threw the brake balance off.
Stock sized drilled rotors are not a very good idea for longevity.
In what way does it stop worse than stock? If it's a spongy pedal, that can be cured with proper bleeding. Just about anything else you will probably have to live with.
Have you tried bedding in the brakes? Not all pads, especially lower performance pads require this but it can help. You don't have to do the extreme bedding in all the way to fade but several hard stops in a row from 60mph to 10mph along with at least a minute of easy driving without fully stopping will put down a transfer layer and might help. Your rotors should not be shiny, they should have what looks like pad material smeared over them. If they're perfectly shiny like a mirror the brakes need to be bedded in.
Stopping distance is determined by the tires, not the brakes.
You're not going to significantly alter brake feel without a different caliper and stainless lines.
You don't want the car to stop easier by swapping front pads and rotors because that would mean you just threw the brake balance off.
Stock sized drilled rotors are not a very good idea for longevity.
In what way does it stop worse than stock? If it's a spongy pedal, that can be cured with proper bleeding. Just about anything else you will probably have to live with.
Have you tried bedding in the brakes? Not all pads, especially lower performance pads require this but it can help. You don't have to do the extreme bedding in all the way to fade but several hard stops in a row from 60mph to 10mph along with at least a minute of easy driving without fully stopping will put down a transfer layer and might help. Your rotors should not be shiny, they should have what looks like pad material smeared over them. If they're perfectly shiny like a mirror the brakes need to be bedded in.
#6
ok so it did needed bleeding no it much better an i did bed in properly.all im left with now is a squeak i think its coming from the front gonna tackle that this weekend anything in mind other that lube the back of pads??
#7
anti-squeal is not "lube". try reapplying the anti-squeal. make sure you allow it to cure before laying the caliper over the pads.
pad shims also help prevent squeal. if you don't have the proper shims your local auto parts store should have some.
pad shims also help prevent squeal. if you don't have the proper shims your local auto parts store should have some.
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#8
You're right. The "lube" is there to damp noise/vibration between metal parts, not lubricate anything lol.
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