DRS25

There was a full set of Akata 10MM hub-centric spacers installed on my car until this happened. I woke up at 8:30 am to head to Import Face Off in Gainesville. As i was leaving my apartment complex rounding a corner traveling maybe 5 mph my car came to a lurching halt, resting on my front left tire. My wheel totally separated from the car due to the spacer completely disintegrating. If this had happened at high speeds it could have proven deadly.

ch1zo

iTrader: (1)

Wow, you were definitely lucky it didn't happen on the freeway or with any other cars around. Im quite shocked because I read nothing but good reviews for these spacers. I guess it does pay to go with the brand name ones then, I've been happy with my H&R's. Send it to the Ebay seller and show they the pics and see what compensation you might be awarded.

The Machine

iTrader: (8)

Damn man, yeah you are definitely lucky that happened at low speeds. Someone was looking out for you!

proimport

Glad to hear ur ok

Elegant TYPE S

iTrader: (2)

Yup another thread where spacers are proven to be dangerous. Glad your alright.

ionojimbo

im still running 20mm akatas so far but i should double check it after just in case thanks for the heads up

Jesstzn

What were the torque settings used on the spacer to hub ... secondly were they retorqued after 50 miles or so?

Were the right nuts used to match the spacer eg. spherical or conical?

A lot of critical factors can come into a failure like this.

DRS25

Everything was done to factory and manufacturer directions.

Jesstzn

Including retorquing?

thisaznboi88

iTrader: (7)

^ I don't think that would even matter. The nuts were still in place and it looks like the spacer was made out of a softer metal causing it to rip threw like that. Also look at the hole in the spacer. Looks like its missing a lot of material from the middle. My Ibachi spacer doesn't have that large of a small holes compared to the OP.



rear shot I borrowed

Jesstzn

It would matter if the nuts backed off a little and caused flexing and stress around the holes.

Same if the holes in the spacer were conical and the stock spherical nuts were used.

thisaznboi88

iTrader: (7)

I think the metal was too thin to begin with to be stud integrated

I hate cars

Agreed.
X2. There flat out was not enough material there especially in aluminum. How the hell can they sell something like this?

If I were doing spacers, I would do the cheap spacers that literally just space the wheel away from the hub and install longer studs. Still not a great solution but you don't have to worry about this kind of stuff. Studs are usually not hard to install.

DRS25

word. Studs it is!

rhafikjaan

thank god it happened at low speeds.. this is the main reason why i am always afraid of going with spacers..

Elite1982

if i were you i would check this thread out on the lexus forum sent by a vossen rep...http://www.clublexus.com/forums/the-...a-spacers.html ...supposedly they have a 5 year workmanship and lifetime structural warranty... you might want to get your money back and tell them what happened...

luder917

iTrader: (1)

thats why you dont see ichiba or any other company make 10mm integrated stud spacers. the smallest i seen them is 15mm.

guitarplayer16

iTrader: (8)

Sorry to hear man.

That fender damage

rockstar143

iTrader: (6)

that's scary but I firmly believe it has a lot more to do with the poor decision for them to produce a 10MM version 2 spacer. If you look at it's thickness...it's not enough to safely accomodate a stud head.

15 is the minimum for a version 2, regardless of brand.

Doon

that suck. very luck that wasn't on the highway.

Genedog

wow.. lucky you it happend not far from your home and not on a highway... Now that being said.. Other companies sell 10mm spacers as well, so what i mean is could this have happened with an H&R 10mm as well? or is it just this company that is selling an un-safe item? Would the 15mm be better just for the thickness eventhough it is made of the same material?

I know we always take risks when modifing our cars but this seems like it could of been avoided had the product been made better.

I hate cars

A 10mm spacer where it only uses the stock studs will work. 10mm with it's own studs is not enough material to grab on to. Maybe if it were steel or an exotic material but not aluminum. Look at the thickness of the Acura steel hub and look at the spacer. They handle similar loads.

Genedog

OK.. that makes sense thanks..

rockstar143

iTrader: (6)

^^^that's the key. version 1's to 10MM, then version 2 is ok from 15 and up.
The hub is probably about 10MM thick itself and that's actually steel (I think).

rockstar143

iTrader: (6)

Now the debate was that ANY company that put out a 10MM spacer would likely fail, not the fact that it was an akata spacer. Anyway, when looking for some 15's for my car...I saw that they still had them listed on ebay. I messaged them and posted the link from acurazine and got a response. Namely, a thank you for letting them know and that there was a defect on those and that they pulled the listing. Thought it was pretty good business response on their part. Thought I'd share.

J.

94eg!

Don't you need to replace the wheel bearings on these cars if your going to install longer studs (hub has to be pulled out of the bearing)?

rockstar143

iTrader: (6)

Well, the ones that had the issue are version 2 spacers, where you bolt this spacer to your existing studs and then the spacer has it's own set of studs.

In the 8th GEN accord...you DO have to pull the hub to get it. In the 3G TL, you can cut away some of the heat shield and grind down one side of the studs to get them in there without doing that.

94eg!

Is this the case for both front & rear & 6MT/Brembo?

rockstar143

iTrader: (6)

No sir, the rear has the ebrake assembly in the way...
BUT, I've been told you can pop the cover off hub center and unbolt the 30MM bolt and pull it out far enough to swap lugs. I haven't tried myself yet though...

94eg!

The reason you can pull the hub out is because your separating the inner race of the bearing, essentially pulling the bearing apart. This does potentially damage the bearing but each case is different.

I've done Honda wheel bearings before and they are a total PITA for a DIY'er (especially the fronts). The rears are more expensive though because they are integrated into the hub. If you have to pull the rear hub and buy a new one, they come with new studs. That's like paying for studs twice.

The rear hub/bearing/stud assembly (#3) is $134 each, but you could probably get them straight from the manufacturer for less (Honda usually uses NTN for hubs & bearings)



Here is the e-brake sheild. Perhaps if you could knock the lugs out through one of those access holes if the shoes can be removed. Then the job wouldn't be so terrible.

rockstar143

iTrader: (6)

Yeah, you ain't lying...upon my original visual inspection though, I don't think any of those holes actually provide access all the way through.

I was told by a Honda tech to undo the nut, and pull the assembly forward by hand and then you can hammer out the studs. I also confirmed that my service manual (ebay DVD one) shows that for the fronts, you must press the bearing etc...but for the rear, you can get away with just pulling it out and pushing it back in.

Thanks for the information btw.

I hate cars

I've never attempted anything like this with the TL but in most cars you can rotate the hub to a point where there's clearance. Even with the backing plate for a drum brake there's usually a hole that's made for pressing out studs.

rockstar143

iTrader: (6)

I'll have to give it another look. I DO have 1 damaged stud that I want to take care of. Plus, thinking of doing some extended studs to be able to rotate the rims and maintain the same offset.

J.

Thanks Matt.

94eg!

You've definitely never seen the front knuckle of an Integra. There is literally about 2mm between the stud head and the knuckle/bearing, covering it by 80%. Honda typically provides no provisions whatsoever for replacing studs. If you DO have the room to do it, you just got lucky (typically in the rear). Even with the smaller civic knuckle/bearings you still have to cut half the stud's head off to get it to clear the knuckle.

JD TL-S

iTrader: (1)

I have read and been told on this Forum that any spacer more than 5mm isnt good.

Elegant TYPE S

iTrader: (2)

If you have a bench grinder just shave off a little portion of the studs head on one side so that the stud's head has clearance to fit through. I'll try to post a pic later.

94eg!

Yeah that was already mentioned. It doesn't work on every Honda and only works for the front. Also you have to cut a hole through the dust shield. And to do the rears you would have to split the bearing. This is a general no-no as it can damage the bearing.

silvrbreez

Digging up an old thread, but Akata makes a 12mm spacer now. Not 10mm anymore, but not 15mm like many other companies offer. Anyone have any experience with the new 12mm option?

rockstar143

iTrader: (6)

I saw that...honestly, the tolerance was probably close/tight...I had emailed them when this thread came up and they pulled the product. I am wondering now if people are paranoid and caused the issue by using a massive impact gun to torque them down in a way that actually caused weakness. I have some years of experience with spacers and if I do version 2, I toque them down carefully and ONLY to 80 ft/lb in a star pattern and I do all of them twice to be sure.

That said, if you're considering extended studs:

https://acurazine.com/forums/3g-tl-tires-wheels-suspension-97/d-042-3g-front-rear-extended-stud-install-843718/

silvrbreez

Thanks for the DIY link.

I'm actually thinking I may just step-up to 15mm all around and fork out a bit more cash for Adaptec spacers. Made in the USA (MERICA!) and Lifetime Warranty are good piece of mind.