DIY Rear Fender Roll
04-24-2011, 09:51 PM
#1
DIY Rear Fender Roll
So I just wrote up a great diy and hit the backspace once and it deleted the whole post - So heres my second attempt. This was the only nice weather day in weeks and just happened to be on easter so I had very limited time so decided to just roll the rear fenders to get ready for coilovers and wheels.
What You Need
(1) Fender Roller - Eastwood in this case
(2) Heat Gun
(1) Friend
(2) Jack Stands
(1) Jack
(1) Rag
(1) Handful of washers that will fit over wheel studs
So First to get a clean roll and have no imperfections on your quarter panel you must clean out the inner fender lip of dirt and stones completely- I used a plastic panel puller to loosen up everything and then a rag to wipe it all clean
Yeah It Was Dirty!
Now bolt on your fender roller and if your using the oem lug nuts and not open ended ones you will need washers to get a fit snug- I had some conical shaped ones with the roller but any washers will do fine
Tigthen those babies on to 20-30 ft lbs dont go crazy and start setting the height and you will want to start at an angle like this \
But before setting the roller to put pressure on the fender lip you need to have your friend take the heat gun and heat whatever section you are about to roll.
You want to heat this so it is not warm but HOT to the touch - this will help your paint from cracking.
Have your friend go ahead of the roller with the heatgun at all times
You will have to adjust height, tension and angle a bunch of times - this is normal.
There are also tac welds on parts of the fender lip that are harder to roll just take your time and they will smooth out just fine.
Slowly change the angle until you are almost directly up and down and then put a decent amount of tension on the fender so that you can see the metal want to morph outward and just roll in nice smooth motions.
Before
After
as you can see from the pics you dont need to go all the way down to the sideskirt as it is pointless
my unimpressed dog sitting by the m3
What You Need
(1) Fender Roller - Eastwood in this case
(2) Heat Gun
(1) Friend
(2) Jack Stands
(1) Jack
(1) Rag
(1) Handful of washers that will fit over wheel studs
So First to get a clean roll and have no imperfections on your quarter panel you must clean out the inner fender lip of dirt and stones completely- I used a plastic panel puller to loosen up everything and then a rag to wipe it all clean
Yeah It Was Dirty!
Now bolt on your fender roller and if your using the oem lug nuts and not open ended ones you will need washers to get a fit snug- I had some conical shaped ones with the roller but any washers will do fine
Tigthen those babies on to 20-30 ft lbs dont go crazy and start setting the height and you will want to start at an angle like this \
But before setting the roller to put pressure on the fender lip you need to have your friend take the heat gun and heat whatever section you are about to roll.
You want to heat this so it is not warm but HOT to the touch - this will help your paint from cracking.
Have your friend go ahead of the roller with the heatgun at all times
You will have to adjust height, tension and angle a bunch of times - this is normal.
There are also tac welds on parts of the fender lip that are harder to roll just take your time and they will smooth out just fine.
Slowly change the angle until you are almost directly up and down and then put a decent amount of tension on the fender so that you can see the metal want to morph outward and just roll in nice smooth motions.
Before
After
as you can see from the pics you dont need to go all the way down to the sideskirt as it is pointless
my unimpressed dog sitting by the m3
04-25-2011, 10:21 PM
#7
I didnt get a chance to even look at the fronts since it was easter - but it will be the same as the rear with maybe the exception of trimming or moving some fender liner if it will be in the way.
The main thing to check is to make sure nothing will obstruct or get in between the fender lip rollin up to the fender.
When I go to bolt the wheels on I might shoot a short video to show how you can be aggressive when rolling the fenders with a fender roller without worrying because trust me the first time you see that sheet metal shifting around you get nervous.
The main thing to check is to make sure nothing will obstruct or get in between the fender lip rollin up to the fender.
When I go to bolt the wheels on I might shoot a short video to show how you can be aggressive when rolling the fenders with a fender roller without worrying because trust me the first time you see that sheet metal shifting around you get nervous.
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04-25-2011, 10:30 PM
#8
OEM paint will not crack unless you go for an extreme pull or your doing something wrong.
Also before rolling check for visible signs to see if your rear quarters have been repainted before (overspray, tape lines, imperfections) If it has been repainted you have a greater chance of it cracking.
Also very important if you have paint work done make sure you do not have bondo any where in at least a 1 foot radius around your fender lip - this could crack the bondo and open up a huge can of worms for you!
Back to your question- If the paint started cracking I would try heating even more and turn it into a long process doing only slight pressure each time- And then touch up what you need to after - this is entirely up to you though and if your paint starts cracking on the outside where you could visibly see well then you need to ask yourself if your going to regret this.
Last edited by MEM3; 04-25-2011 at 10:33 PM.
04-26-2011, 02:28 AM
#13
I wonder if ur size will fit.... its not EXTREMELY wide... offset is nice
I know someone had rota 18x9 +30 235/40, lowered w/ springs no fenders rolled and did NOT encounter rub (even w/ full car load)
the 18x8.75 +20 - 235/40 tires will be CLOSE to rubbing... but I think after a roll you'll be able to pull it offf forsure
I know someone had rota 18x9 +30 235/40, lowered w/ springs no fenders rolled and did NOT encounter rub (even w/ full car load)
the 18x8.75 +20 - 235/40 tires will be CLOSE to rubbing... but I think after a roll you'll be able to pull it offf forsure
04-26-2011, 07:47 AM
#14
mine is 8.5 et15 = sticks out 36mm further than stock
yours is 8.75 et20 = sticks out 35mm further than stock
so only one mm difference and im sure me being lower the natural camber will suck it in 1mm - I have mounted a 215 tire to be safe- if i got 1 finger clearance you could make a 225 fit- if i have 2 fingers clearance you will have to pull your fender but you could make a 235 fit.
04-26-2011, 08:24 AM
#15
Nicely done...
Now that I've gone all possible routes, I realize that:
A) The heat gun keeps paint from cracking but more importantly, it actually softens up the metal a bit and makes it a lot more pliable.
B) The fender is a lot more robust than you think, you can go to town on it on the inside.
I originally tried using a pipe and did a pretty crappy job of rolling. Then had the rears done professionally. The fronts, rubbed on my way home from getting the rear done so over the course of a week I got them done little by little. I'd look every day for where the paint was being rubbed by tire and rolled more...liner has a small hole in a section where it touches but it's all good.
Running +35 front with a 235/35/19.
Rear +25 w/same with 20MM spacer.
I second the notion about this being tsickied, good idea!
Now that I've gone all possible routes, I realize that:
A) The heat gun keeps paint from cracking but more importantly, it actually softens up the metal a bit and makes it a lot more pliable.
B) The fender is a lot more robust than you think, you can go to town on it on the inside.
I originally tried using a pipe and did a pretty crappy job of rolling. Then had the rears done professionally. The fronts, rubbed on my way home from getting the rear done so over the course of a week I got them done little by little. I'd look every day for where the paint was being rubbed by tire and rolled more...liner has a small hole in a section where it touches but it's all good.
Running +35 front with a 235/35/19.
Rear +25 w/same with 20MM spacer.
I second the notion about this being tsickied, good idea!
04-26-2011, 09:16 AM
#17
I don't know man I am just comparing it to what my car looks like with the wheels I got. Your setup will be out 8mm more than mine then I tried to see if I could make my wheels stick out 8mm more and it didn't seem possible without rolling. I am just talking about the back fenders too. But I am on 19s and 1.5" lower so if you aren't you should be ok. they might poke out tho
)
04-26-2011, 02:18 PM
#28
got a question for u guys ... i know its a little off topic but why dont the fenders just come rolled like this from the factory, i personally think it looks cleaner than the lip that they leave around the fender
04-26-2011, 08:11 PM
#30
Mine are rolled, and I still feel a decent amount of "lip" that could probably be flattened, but at that point I think it will reduce rigidity. Do a roll...(or better yet, throw your set up on, especially since your HEIGHT/PRELOAD are adjustable...and work it from there!
We can talk theory all day, but until you put it on the car and sit 4 people in it and tweak, it won't be definitive anyway. Not all tire edges are created equally...not all cars camber the same....
Without camber kits...with no gap in the rear, you'll be running near a -2.5...and you might clear.
I'll be checking the other thread, I'm guessing you posted some pics there?
04-27-2011, 09:48 PM
#31
06 ThugLuv
I just read that you should roll your rear fenders before you install coil overs because the rollin' tool wont fit properly afterwards...Is this true? i need t know cuz im planning on lowering my baby 2maro...
04-27-2011, 10:39 PM
#32
yes I have said this in another thread, there are other fender rollers like stance or powered by max that can go really short but the eastwood on certain cars if they are on low coils its really hard to get the right angle cause it cant get short enough - so yes it is better if possible.
04-27-2011, 11:00 PM
#33
06 ThugLuv
yes I have said this in another thread, there are other fender rollers like stance or powered by max that can go really short but the eastwood on certain cars if they are on low coils its really hard to get the right angle cause it cant get short enough - so yes it is better if possible.
But your saying ill have no problems if i get my hands on stance or powered ones right???
07-28-2011, 07:59 PM
#35
THREAD BUMP
I need help
I just made my friend that owns a shop purchase the eastwood fender roller.
I just ordered xxr 527
FRONT SPECS 18x8.75 et 20
REAR SPECS 18x9.75 et 20
I will be running them with 225/40/18 falken 512 tires
Neither one of us has ever rolled a fender...I am currently dropped about 2.5 inches on stockies....I think I will have to raise my car half an inch and do a 2inch drop is this possible with my fenders rolled?
This thread showed me how to roll the rear fenders. Should I even attempt to roll the fronts? There is a liner for the front fenders and also the screw that holds the bumper to the fender in the up corner of the wheel well.
There does not even seem to be that much that can be rolled..how would I go about rolling the front fenders?
I need help
I just made my friend that owns a shop purchase the eastwood fender roller.
I just ordered xxr 527
FRONT SPECS 18x8.75 et 20
REAR SPECS 18x9.75 et 20
I will be running them with 225/40/18 falken 512 tires
Neither one of us has ever rolled a fender...I am currently dropped about 2.5 inches on stockies....I think I will have to raise my car half an inch and do a 2inch drop is this possible with my fenders rolled?
This thread showed me how to roll the rear fenders. Should I even attempt to roll the fronts? There is a liner for the front fenders and also the screw that holds the bumper to the fender in the up corner of the wheel well.
There does not even seem to be that much that can be rolled..how would I go about rolling the front fenders?
07-29-2011, 10:37 PM
#37
THREAD BUMP
I need help
I just made my friend that owns a shop purchase the eastwood fender roller.
I just ordered xxr 527
FRONT SPECS 18x8.75 et 20
REAR SPECS 18x9.75 et 20
I will be running them with 225/40/18 falken 512 tires
Neither one of us has ever rolled a fender...I am currently dropped about 2.5 inches on stockies....I think I will have to raise my car half an inch and do a 2inch drop is this possible with my fenders rolled?
This thread showed me how to roll the rear fenders. Should I even attempt to roll the fronts? There is a liner for the front fenders and also the screw that holds the bumper to the fender in the up corner of the wheel well.
There does not even seem to be that much that can be rolled..how would I go about rolling the front fenders?
I need help
I just made my friend that owns a shop purchase the eastwood fender roller.
I just ordered xxr 527
FRONT SPECS 18x8.75 et 20
REAR SPECS 18x9.75 et 20
I will be running them with 225/40/18 falken 512 tires
Neither one of us has ever rolled a fender...I am currently dropped about 2.5 inches on stockies....I think I will have to raise my car half an inch and do a 2inch drop is this possible with my fenders rolled?
This thread showed me how to roll the rear fenders. Should I even attempt to roll the fronts? There is a liner for the front fenders and also the screw that holds the bumper to the fender in the up corner of the wheel well.
There does not even seem to be that much that can be rolled..how would I go about rolling the front fenders?
Front Fenders
I run a 215 in the front tho for tire size but theres a little bit of clearance so you can make a 225 work - where it will give you a problem is where the fender meets the front bumper.
You can roll the front fender - you need to pull the 2 bracket bolts for the caliper, remove the caliper (leave brake line installed) and hang it towards the back from a bungee cord (not the brake line)-
Then pull down the fender liner out of your way - clean out the fender crease and bolt up your fender roller-The tab that you mentioned that had a screw in it needs to be bent inward with some tape wrapped on pliers or body shop rubber pliers.
Just like the rear instructions heat it up and go real slow with the fender roller- NOW IMPORTANT front fenders will flex alot more than the rears- you need to pay attention to the body line where the fender meets the door- as you pull your fender more this line pulls away - dont pull the front fenders to hard - roll real slow with only moderate pressure.
The Rears
Read above- you will need a roll and a slight pull - might be a smart move to purchase some ingalls camber and toe adjustable arms - cause running -3.5 degress of camber or so will help you and zero out the toe. As for a DIY for installing those arms I cant help you- My eccentric adjustable camber bolts were frozen stuck and there was way too much cursing involved!
07-29-2011, 10:45 PM
#38
I am running almost the same exact specs so you can definitely make it work.
Front Fenders
I run a 215 in the front tho for tire size but theres a little bit of clearance so you can make a 225 work - where it will give you a problem is where the fender meets the front bumper.
You can roll the front fender - you need to pull the 2 bracket bolts for the caliper, remove the caliper (leave brake line installed) and hang it towards the back from a bungee cord (not the brake line)-
Then pull down the fender liner out of your way - clean out the fender crease and bolt up your fender roller-The tab that you mentioned that had a screw in it needs to be bent inward with some tape wrapped on pliers or body shop rubber pliers.
Just like the rear instructions heat it up and go real slow with the fender roller- NOW IMPORTANT front fenders will flex alot more than the rears- you need to pay attention to the body line where the fender meets the door- as you pull your fender more this line pulls away - dont pull the front fenders to hard - roll real slow with only moderate pressure.
The Rears
Read above- you will need a roll and a slight pull - might be a smart move to purchase some ingalls camber and toe adjustable arms - cause running -3.5 degress of camber or so will help you and zero out the toe. As for a DIY for installing those arms I cant help you- My eccentric adjustable camber bolts were frozen stuck and there was way too much cursing involved!
Front Fenders
I run a 215 in the front tho for tire size but theres a little bit of clearance so you can make a 225 work - where it will give you a problem is where the fender meets the front bumper.
You can roll the front fender - you need to pull the 2 bracket bolts for the caliper, remove the caliper (leave brake line installed) and hang it towards the back from a bungee cord (not the brake line)-
Then pull down the fender liner out of your way - clean out the fender crease and bolt up your fender roller-The tab that you mentioned that had a screw in it needs to be bent inward with some tape wrapped on pliers or body shop rubber pliers.
Just like the rear instructions heat it up and go real slow with the fender roller- NOW IMPORTANT front fenders will flex alot more than the rears- you need to pay attention to the body line where the fender meets the door- as you pull your fender more this line pulls away - dont pull the front fenders to hard - roll real slow with only moderate pressure.
The Rears
Read above- you will need a roll and a slight pull - might be a smart move to purchase some ingalls camber and toe adjustable arms - cause running -3.5 degress of camber or so will help you and zero out the toe. As for a DIY for installing those arms I cant help you- My eccentric adjustable camber bolts were frozen stuck and there was way too much cursing involved!
I have a rear camber kit installed already and I had frozen bolts to and I know the pain you went through LOL. But for the fronts I heard many people tell me not to roll them cuz theres barely any space there and to just let my tire slightly rub when it wants to and the fender will eventually mold by itself where i dont rub anymore lol. Do you think I can get away without rolling my FRONT fenders if I pick a 215 tire and also do a 2 inch drop. I dont quite understand the caliper bracket bolts that you are taking about. Also my front passenger fender was replaced so I am sort of scared to mess with that one.
07-29-2011, 10:55 PM
#40
I have a rear camber kit installed already and I had frozen bolts to and I know the pain you went through LOL. But for the fronts I heard many people tell me not to roll them cuz theres barely any space there and to just let my tire slightly rub when it wants to and the fender will eventually mold by itself where i dont rub anymore lol. Do you think I can get away without rolling my FRONT fenders if I pick a 215 tire and also do a 2 inch drop. I dont quite understand the caliper bracket bolts that you are taking about. Also my front passenger fender was replaced so I am sort of scared to mess with that one.
I think a fender roller with a heat gun even to start the roll will be better than letting your tire just hit it- especially be more gentle on the fender with non factory paint.
You may also have to trim your fender liner back about a half inch from the fender crease.
Also make sure if your going to roll your front fenders there is no bondo on them!