cazio

iTrader: (3)

I know bud, maybe I was kinda vague but that's what in speaking of not just what we touched during my install I'm talking about all the bushing listed in this DIY

Wacker

Gotcha. Sorry for doubting you. Lol.

cazio

iTrader: (3)

haha no prob, I wasnt very clear but thanks again for the DIY it was helpful. there was one bushing in the rear on either side that I did neglect due to clearance, I hit one end but the other that was closest to the center of the car I didn't do but I guess some is better than none lol.

chayos00

This is an interesting read. I have not adjusted the height of my wife's TL, but as I lifted my 4Runner I don't think I re-torqued everything with it weighted down at the ride height. I think when I do my oil change & rotation of tires, that I will add this to my to do list for my checkout of my suspension. As I had already planned to double check all the torques on everything.

colindunn

What if I accidentally removed the toe adjustment bolt....

I mean I put it back in... (all with the car in the air)

I still need to untighten and retighten the bolts then get an alignment.

Shoeface

Yeah you'll definitely need to get it aligned again if you removed the toe bolt.

I'm surprised you were able to remove it. When I installed my 2 arm camber kit, I had to cut off the sonbish and buy new ones. Others had the same issue with rust.

Comptechtl2367

You will need an alignment for sure. I assume you never got it aligned after you lowered it then ether?

colindunn

I lowered it last week. Waited a week for everything to settle then I forgot about this.. I can go a few weeks without an alignment it will be fine.

This just involves loosening the bolts and NOT taking them all the way out right...

colindunn

I have an electric impact which made everything very easy

Wacker

Yes. Just loosen. You can usually see the bushing adjust or move as the tension is released as you are loosening the nuts/bolts.

colindunn

Thats what I figured thanks!

Frosty

iTrader: (7)

I wonder if doing this will fix my crooked rear springs? They've been like this ever since I got them installed and I have no idea what is causing it (neither does the tech at the tire shop). My ride height is different between the right-rear and left-rear as well.

paperboy42190

iTrader: (7)

NO this will NOT fix your crooked springs. that seems like a dangerous situation, maybe the springs arent seated right and can pop loose in the right condition. get that fixed asap! what brand springs are those? maybe its a defect too

Frosty

iTrader: (7)

I took the car back to the shop that installed them and they rechecked everything and it all was seated correctly. I even took it to a different shop and they said everything looked right to them also. These are H&R Sport Springs by the way which I bought brand new from XLR8 Performance. I sent pictures of everything to them, and they too said everything looks to be seated correctly. How are you so sure that the overly tense bushings have nothing to do with the springs being "bowed"? I'm at least going to try it and see if anything improves. It can't hurt.

I just got off the phone with the manufacture and they asked me to email them pictures. So I'm waiting to hear back from them. I really have a hard time believing that the springs are defective to be honest.

I should add that at the time of install, I also had the Ingalls rear camber + toe kit installed. Could an incorrect installation of these parts affect the springs in this way? Here are some pictures of the perches and top mounts.

Roger555

iTrader: (3)

Nice thread! I'm always trying to remind people about this! I cant believe how many people don't realize they are destroying their bushings if they don't.

P.S. Technically this is called removing preload not "relaxing" but I think both get the point across

96SC4

Very interesting. Good read

ATLS_666

Did this yesterday and some of the bushings did "pop". I have Tein Basis and although the ride is still firm, rebound is more cushy. The ride now is more tolerable now.

Wacker

I'm glad it helped you. I had the same experience. Did it drop you any lower like it did me?

rockstar143

iTrader: (6)

Thread delivery continues to deliver...nice

ATLS_666

Na man no drop but I wasn't looking for one anyway.

pinina

iTrader: (2)

I might look into this.

Luketic

So, what exactly am i lowering back down on? I understand, jack the car up from front or rear middle, then lower onto jack stands/blocks onto..? Then the car will be at ride height with no tires on, correct? Lol, don't know why I'm having a hard time with this.

rockstar143

iTrader: (6)

That's exactly right...you want the car's suspension fully compressed as if NOT on a jack, BUT obviously you need that done with the wheel not there so you can access the bolts.

You can do 2nd jack under the hub with a piece of wood to prevent it rolling and metal on metal...or you can stack something strong, like a jack stand or wood pile under the hub/rotor face and lower the car until the jack isn't the one holding the weight up.

Personally, I prefer 2nd jack method, that way the jack is still there...you jack up 2nd one until you see the weight of car transfer to the second jack under the hub, loosen all rotating bushings, let them pop, re tighten and you're done.

H23Accord

iTrader: (8)

Having read through this some time ago, I just wanted to come back in here and thank you guys for this info as It wasn't until recently that I decided to finally do this. it helped smooth out the ride quality of my setup from what initially felt like excess rebound over dips and bumps. Passengers have also referenced the improved ride quality.

Anybody who isn't happy with the ride quality of their setup, give this a try if you haven't already. I was surprised how much it helped.