Control arm bushing help
03-28-2011, 05:47 PM
#1
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Control arm bushing help
So I was intalling my new eibach lowering springs today and let me tell you, the freaking back seat and those two nut in the back was a pain in the ass.
but on a serious note, I got the rear springs on with no problem,
the front I have not gotten them on because I cant get the lower control arm bushing to free the bolt to take the shocks of...
I gotta melt it to get it out.
Has anybody had this problem, and where did u get the new bushing??
Its hard finding a set.
but on a serious note, I got the rear springs on with no problem,
the front I have not gotten them on because I cant get the lower control arm bushing to free the bolt to take the shocks of...
I gotta melt it to get it out.
Has anybody had this problem, and where did u get the new bushing??
Its hard finding a set.
03-29-2011, 12:10 AM
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I've done shocks and/or springs on the TL probably 4 times and never had any issue.
You're talking about Step #5, bolt "C" in this Service Manual scan?
D-091: DIY:Front and read damper/shock spring replacement
https://acurazine.com/forums/car-parts-sale-361/fm-modulators-group-purchase-173827/
You can't tap/knock the bolt out with a mallet?
You're talking about Step #5, bolt "C" in this Service Manual scan?
D-091: DIY:Front and read damper/shock spring replacement
https://acurazine.com/forums/car-parts-sale-361/fm-modulators-group-purchase-173827/
You can't tap/knock the bolt out with a mallet?
03-29-2011, 08:22 AM
#5
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You could always try Acura (or even Honda once you have the part number):
http://www.acurapartswarehouse.com/P...gPicture=False
http://www.acurapartswarehouse.com/P...gPicture=False
Its that freaking number "11" BUSH, FR. SHOCK ABSORBER that got in my way of installing the front springs... lol.
I'm about to call acura now hopefully they got them so I can ride a bit level..
Thanks..
PS the Eibach sportline has pretty a impresive drop IMO
03-29-2011, 08:27 AM
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I've done shocks and/or springs on the TL probably 4 times and never had any issue.
You're talking about Step #5, bolt "C" in this Service Manual scan?
D-091: DIY:Front and read damper/shock spring replacement
https://acurazine.com/forums/showthread.php?t=173827
You can't tap/knock the bolt out with a mallet?
You're talking about Step #5, bolt "C" in this Service Manual scan?
D-091: DIY:Front and read damper/shock spring replacement
https://acurazine.com/forums/showthread.php?t=173827
You can't tap/knock the bolt out with a mallet?
you got it... That step got me stuck...
The bolt wont turn, looks like the rubber bushing has embedded itself around the bolt. My bro who is a mechanic said that if the bushing spins around in the housing I would need new bushings, and to get it of we need to melt it and some how that would release the bolt, but I would have to find the bushing first...
Hopefully acura pulls thru today.
03-29-2011, 09:59 AM
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When I changed shocks on our '02, I had to tap the bolt out, but it wasn't really an issue.
Kind of sucks your's is stuck. Good news is the bushing isn't too expensive. Hopefully no big problems with the removal and re-installation.
Kind of sucks your's is stuck. Good news is the bushing isn't too expensive. Hopefully no big problems with the removal and re-installation.
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03-29-2011, 10:30 PM
#8
What happens is the bolt rusts solid to the metal inner sleeve of the bushing. This is really common on rear suspension, but I can see it happening in other places. I've had this on the back of my Civic even out here in the dry Las Vegas desert.
The trick to keep this from happening is to coat the new bolts (and all the rest of the old bolts) in anti-seize where they sit inside the bushing. This spot on the bolt is usually not threaded, so doing the entire length of the bolt is probably a good idea. It doesn't take much, but it will make the difference in another 50+ thousand miles...
A jar of anti-seize is cheap insurance when you plan on working on your own suspension.
The trick to keep this from happening is to coat the new bolts (and all the rest of the old bolts) in anti-seize where they sit inside the bushing. This spot on the bolt is usually not threaded, so doing the entire length of the bolt is probably a good idea. It doesn't take much, but it will make the difference in another 50+ thousand miles...
A jar of anti-seize is cheap insurance when you plan on working on your own suspension.
03-30-2011, 07:58 AM
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What happens is the bolt rusts solid to the metal inner sleeve of the bushing. This is really common on rear suspension, but I can see it happening in other places. I've had this on the back of my Civic even out here in the dry Las Vegas desert.
The trick to keep this from happening is to coat the new bolts (and all the rest of the old bolts) in anti-seize where they sit inside the bushing. This spot on the bolt is usually not threaded, so doing the entire length of the bolt is probably a good idea. It doesn't take much, but it will make the difference in another 50+ thousand miles...
A jar of anti-seize is cheap insurance when you plan on working on your own suspension.
The trick to keep this from happening is to coat the new bolts (and all the rest of the old bolts) in anti-seize where they sit inside the bushing. This spot on the bolt is usually not threaded, so doing the entire length of the bolt is probably a good idea. It doesn't take much, but it will make the difference in another 50+ thousand miles...
A jar of anti-seize is cheap insurance when you plan on working on your own suspension.
I'm getting the new bushings today, a set from acura and a set from advance. the one from acura is a one peice push-in bushing, and its going to be a bitch getting those in as I have to remove the whole lower control arm to get them in then work on the springs
,and hopefully the one from advance is a two peice bushing which I just place them on both sides of the hole that it sits in, which will save me some time
...
Last edited by raydiddy; 03-30-2011 at 08:01 AM.
03-31-2011, 07:53 PM
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so just found out that I need a new set of sway bar links as well, because we gotta cut the old ones out to somewhat gain access to the wish bone bushing. then gotta take the whole control arm off to get the new bushing fitted inside the hole. damn this a lot work getting a set of springs on but never the less, it must be done. I will keep you all posted.
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