jackoWacko

All Comptech did was to replicate the oem in larger diameter. engineering a bar includes the geometrics as well. IMHO, it may be stiffer but Comptech falls short on the engineering side.

GrayFox

Hi,

I just ordered a comptech rsb, does anyone know the appropriate
torque to be used when installing the rascal?

Jerry

subinf

it says on the sheet...i didnt torque mine. i didnt think it was necessary, just because once you get it tight, well, thats all you need.

also to go back to the aspec suspension talk, i was trying to decide between the tein coilovers or the aspec, and i think im going to opt for the aspec. i do all installs myself since im a mechanic, well it would make sense. for 600 bucks for a full set is damn good, while i havent driven a car with any other kind of aftermarket suspension i did notice a huge difference between stock and aspec, plus the acura warranty is nice.

db252

I bought and intalled the a-spec suspension also. Very easy and fully enjoying it. Glad to see someone else is expressing that a torque wrench isn't really necessary on this type of job. Your car isn't built with a torque wrench which you'll discover after working on it. Now if your building an engine, a torque wrench is definately needed. Both the sway bar and the a-spec suspension are diy jobs with basic tools.

ChuckDu

Is the a-spec suspension really a diy job for someone who is pretty handy? My intuition says yes (as you do) since the struts and springs come as a unit. So what are the roadblocks I'd have to look out for? Any tips?

I don't want to get in over my head but would love to save a couple of hundred dollars.

TIA

subinf

the aspec is going to be on the easier side of the suspension jobs you will come across. its pretty much remove and replace. instructions are self explanatory, hardest part about the first time is just dealing with the comfort level of the project. i remember way back when i first started wrenching i was nervous doing an oil change, 9000 later its no biggy. if you get stuck on anything just post a question here.

DMZ

How? Enquiring minds want to know.

T-Mobile

Hey,

I just had the A-Spec suspension $600.00 and the Comtech Say Bar installed and, yes I love the diffrence. I have a question...Is it normal to hear a noticeable, "twang," sound coming from the front towers upon turning hard during breaking or going up or down a sharp incline. This has happened three times now since my install. My buddy says it is settleing. I think it is BS. I think they did not tourqe it enough. They say you should not tourqe it too tight. I don't think anything broke, I just wonder if all these people saying you don't need a tourque wrench are incorrect and Acura's standards are serious reccomendations and should be followed?

BTW- The stock sway bar on the auto is so flimsy, I'd not be suprised to see it on a '93 Infiniti G20, my last car.

db252

T-Mobile -

As far as my experience has gone there has never been a "twang" sound ever. I would have noticed that since I am always listening to the car and would be concerned as much as you. Don't worry about the torque wrench issue. Check your endlink connections (front and back) and make sure they are secure. Your description of events points more towards that than the struts. Let us know.

hawa

do you have the part# for Tokico Illumina? i am looking for one, but after all the searches, i am still not sure if they will fit... i really need help here

ubnpast

This was 1 year and 3 months ago....

But anyway, I know the sway bar is to help the roll, but has anyone noticed a rougher ride in an auto?

BlackTL05

I have the same question. With the 22mm comptech swaybar, is there any ride comfort lost in this handling gain vs stock auto. Are bumbs sharper in the back or anything? Also do they make any creaking noises over time that can become annoyiing?

BlackTL05

Sorry, meant to add this to my above question, but is there any effect (good or bad) in high speed stability?

lembowski

iTrader: (1)

Just installed my RSB this weekend and I'm really impressed. Took Comptech forever to get these back in stock. It reduces the body roll greatly. As for ride comfort I really haven't noticed any change, the street are pretty bumpy here in San Diego anyways. As for creaking, I decieded to go with the stock bushings Comptech sent, because they stated that it is a new bushing and they addressed the problem with squeaking. Also Poly bushings like (Energy Suspension) do increase the road noise, or so I've heard

enormus

Just bought mine from Acura of Escondido . . .

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eB...tem=8076274671

8 left as of this post.

davenlei

I installed the Comptech RSB Sunday and took it out for a spin. I must say it does really tighten up the rear a lot. It does not lean like it used to at all. When I flick the steering wheel, the car is much more responsive (but still not as good as my old 3 series). By the way, I have a 5AT.
The funny thing is now that the rear is tighter and I take turns harder, the front feel a little more swishey that the rear. It is almost like I need something to button down the front to match the tightness the rear has now. Anyone else feel this?
Regarding the roughness of the ride changing question earlier, it feels only slightly different. If you take stock roughness as a 6 out of 10, the rear swaybar makes it feel like a 6.2 which is barely any difference.

clay8898

also installed the RSB on Sunday. Probably the best mod for the money. Very happy with the results.

clay8898

Here's a pic of the stock and Comptechs together you can really tell the difference in thickness. I have a 5AT.
[IMG][/IMG]

Kennedy

iTrader: (2)

Clay, my RSB is silver. Is yours black?

PeterUbers

iTrader: (1)

bodyroll is eliminated? No it isn't.. it's just a little more nimble in turns.. I have an A-spec suspension, 18" Aspec rims, the CT RSB and YES! there IS still bodyroll...

You're just not driving into turns past 15 mph .. that's why you're not experiencing the bodyroll.

It's an improvement (the CT RSB) but it's not THAT much of one.

davenlei

I did not mean there was NO body roll but compared to stock, it feels like the body roll is reduced dramatically.
I know what no body roll feels like. I used to have an old RX-7 with a lot of money invested in the suspension (and motor). That car handled like crazy. I miss that car.

clay8898

No its grey.

whatjones911

I thought the CT RSB is silver???

BlackTL05

thanks for the info. i think im gonna order one shortly

Swanny05TL

Just to expand a bit from an engineers standpoint, the reason Acura doesn't include the stiffer swaybar is that it does reduce the overall ride comfort a bit. They have a particular ride in mind & don't wish to change something that will cause the ride to be harsher. This is why the car is classified as a luxury-sport vehicle. If it was merely sport, they could sacrifice ride quality.

How is the ride affected? A sway bar affects how a car reacts side to side. Thus, for instance if you rolled over a speed bump where both rear wheels are affected at the same time, you would not feel the stiffer sway bar. However, if you hit a bump or dip with one side only, then the stiffer sway bar would be felt. The heavier bar would have less give & thus transmit more of that bump to the rest of the car.

It may not be the easiest thing to notice, as the affect may feel negligible to most, however in engineering a vehicles ride, every little bit adds up. To answer the next question-your high speed stability should be greater with the stiffer sway bar. If you've ever driven a big old Town Car with the plush suspension & then get hit with a strong crosswind, you'll quickly yearn for a stiffer ride.

As a funny & embarrassing side note, when I was a kid in high school, my first car was a Chevette. JC Whitney offered a heavier sway bar for the front & actually had a sway bar for the rear. I added both & the difference was amazing. Combining those with some fatter low profile tires & that little POS cornered like you wouldn't believe. I think it was that experience that moved me to appreciate improved handling over just improved horsepower. Thankfully I'm all grown up now & experiencing the wonders of the TL & BMW M series.

Boardman

Great post Swanny05TL - couldn't have explained it better myself .

A question related to this RSB - for those who did their own install how long did it take you to do? My dealer who is an authorized Comptech retailer / installer wants ~ $150 which is about 1.5 hours @ rack rate. I can't believe that with a lift AND air tools it could possbily take 1.5 hours. In prior cars I installed RSB's and it only took about 1.5 hours with jackstands and hand tools in my garage.

Am I waaaay off base here or what? TIA .

dennisil

I hae purchased my CT RSB and in the spirit of friendship i want to give my stock RSB to a close friend of mine that has a 05 accord 2 door, will this fit his car??

Ps. I will be posting vids of last weekends Monkey tachtics stunt show featuring me in my 06 TL ripping a baddass 400+foot burnout and a 900+hp 02' T/A, I need to get some time to edit it nicely so you all will be impressed, oh and i raced the T/A and beat him LOL thats not on the video he couldent grab any traction and i just gingerly pulled away and beat him

davenlei

Took me about 30 minutes to do.

Silver Bullet

I have an '04 A-Spec 6MT and the difference is negligible although I can tell a slight difference. I've had it in for 1 week now after driving the car for 2 years and almost 50k miles. The jury is sill out with me on this mod with the A-Spec suspension. I won't change back at this point.

Silver Bullet

Took me 30 minutes with help from Trance who had done it a couple weeks before. Didn't remove anything, not even a wheel. Just jacked the back and twisted/rotated it out and back in no problem.

Boardman

Well.... finally got the Comptech RSB on the car. Had the dealer do it so they couldn't bitch at me re: warranty and extended warranty and got bent over a bit for it but it showed me what the dealer that sold me the car was really about - won't be goin back there again .

My initial impressions are qutie favourable . Nice and notable improvement in handling and very little difference in ride. Only time I notice a slight difference is when I run over something - like a pothole cover - with only one of the two rear wheels. A little more harsh but nothing too bad - worth the sacrifice given the improvment in handling. The difference wouldn't be noticable by anyone not looking for it ... but i was .

All in all a good bang for the buck mod IMHO .

ari1856

Rear bars will give you better front grip and a little more slide (loose on the rear0. Works great for FWS and AWD cars...

berzerker

you guys with the RSB upgrade: Are you running stock tires or Z-rated/hi-perf. tires or what kinds?

I'm running on 245/45ZR- 17 Falken Azenis, and I LOVE how they tigten up the handling. I'm just wondering if this sway bar will be as noticeable as to someone with stock tires or non-z-rated styles of tire.....

Boardman

I'm running the stock Mich's for now. I believe you would still notice a difference even with those tires as the Comptech RSB will help manage load shift which should translate to improved handling for ya.

sqzbox

I changed out the stock Michelin H4's for Pilot Sport A/S's of the same size before I put the Comptech RSB on. The tire change out was most noticible in wet conditions as the H4's didn't have very good wet traction, but the Pilot Sorts were a little more progressive in response and felt better even in the dry. The H4's always felt squirelly to me.

After I installed the RSB, the rear did tighten up a little from the 20mm stock RSB on the 6MT. Less body lean and a little shaper turn in, but very modest. The improvement was marginal, but the cost was low, so I think it was worth it. If you have a 5AT with a 17mm RSB, it a no brainer as it will really improve the turn in.

cristphoto

I agree about the Acura design concept. This is why I just replaced my stock 17mm bar with the factory 20mm bar from the 6-speed. This bar was $50 from an on-line Acura dealer which included shipping and both rubber bushings and bushing holders. The torque chart shows that this bar has about a 100% increase in stiffness. I didn't want to go with the Comptech 22mm bar because of ride comfort concerns. I'm 57 and like my comfort. The car handles noticibly better and ride comfort is same as before. I put the bar on myself and it was really easy. It took about an hour from absolute start to finish. Actual work took about 30 minutes. I sprayed WD-40 on all the associated bolts and let sit for 30 minutes then came outside again and began the swap. Learning from all previous posts, I took off the left rear wheel after the car was jacked up. I unbolted both end link bolts (14mm open wrench and 5mm allen wrench). I then removed the 2 bushing bolts on each side of the bar (12mm deep socket and ratchet). Before I removed the bar I set the new bar down in the same position so to remember the original placement. With all the bolts out it took all of 15 seconds to remove the bar. Fishing in the new bar took about the same time. I then aligned up both bushing brackets and connected the end bolts and bushing bolts. I torqued everything down, put the tire back on and let the car back down. I have a floor jack and jack stands, and it appeared that I couldn't jack the car up enough to get the jackstands under the car (they're good sized stands designed for American sized cars). No problem, I just used the floor jack on the rear jacking loop (with 2 pieces of 2x4 sitting on the jack lip. Once the car was jacked so the wheels were up I just used the car jack on the left rear jack point. The car was steady throughout the entire job.

RKA

I'll add my $0.02 here (since I'm not sure where else I should put it, and another thread is a waste).

I added a CT rear bar to my '06 Auto this weekend. After driving around on a large variety of roads, these are my thoughts.

1. High speed lane changes are much more predictable. The back of the car doesn't feel as sloppy as it did before.

2. The roll in the front of the car is very pronounced now (again, this is in an automatic). The car really needs a larger front roll bar. I would even go as far as saying the car has an odd unbalanced feel to it with the factory bar up front and the CT bar in the back.

3. Harshness and ride comfort were not impacted dramatically. I went out of my way to drive on roads that can challenge a stiffer suspension, and I did perceive a difference, but it was rather small. On bumpy corners, the rear suspension can skitter over bumps, but it did that with the factory rear bar as well. It's hard to quantify the difference. Ride quality from the front seat wasn't much stiffer. Rear seat occupants might feel otherwise...but I never rode in the back seat before I swapped the bar, and I can't reach the pedals and wheel from the back seat. :-P

I took a look at the front bar to see what's involved, and as the posts here have insinuated, it's a mess. There are too many contortions to rotate and fish it out...you really have to get stuff out of the way. Seems like you need to remove the cat, lower the rear portion of the subframe (while supporting the engine), and then you should be able to extract the bar. I'm not sure whether there are implications with the trans too...I just got a headache looking at the way they routed the damn bar. Ideally I would like to get a used bar from a 6 sp, find some lift time, and take a closer look to see if the 6 sp bar will work, and evaluate what else will need to be done to drop the subframe.

kennyc

RKA!! Glad you made it!!

What a wonderful first post!!

Kracker

I replaced the front bushings this weekend. With some Energy Suspension Bushings. I like it alot more.

I will admit that it sucked, but only took me (by myself) about 4 hours... Most of it was pondering what to do next.

Removing it sucked, putting the ES bushings in was alot easier.