mzilvar

iTrader: (3)

So I decided to take the plunge and revert my camber kit from the ingalls upper ball-joints and arms to the Skunk2 UCAs & SPC Camber arms.

It was quite expensive to do so for me, since I no longer had my OEM control arm and forward link for the rear so I went ahead and purchased new ones.

I think some people had some concern if you'd be able to adjust the toe enough without the adjustable control arm in the rear and I can say that you can.

My rears are at -1.4 on both sides, and toe was adjusted to .07 on both sides in the rear on my alignment today.

Attached is a picture of my alignment from the shop that I had done today. I know my before numbers are way off.

Keep in mind I had just installed the OEM arms, adjustable camber link, new UCA's with adjustable ball-joints up front and the LCA on the driver's side just sort of guessing where they should be at for their adjustment points when I installed them.

If you're concerned with removing the ball-joint link on the top of the knuckle in the rear it was really easy. Since I didn't care for the links any longer or the boots I just used a pickle fork and big hammer to force it in and they popped right out, obviously destroyed the boots on the original arms though.

I will say to use the OEM castle nut on the camber arms if you're considering going this route. The castle nut that comes with the SPC arms is about half the length of the OEM castle nut and the pin hole would be below the castle nut if you use the one that the SPC kit comes with. I also re-used the OEM pins for the SPC arms, they're design is easier to use and holds onto the OEM castle nut better than a split pin would.

I'm sure the toe could be adjusted to be within spec still if you had more negative camber in the rear than I'm running as well, but don't really know just how negative you could go and still dial-in the toe to spec.

I'm about 24" from center of the fender to the ground on all four corners and running 18x9" offset 30 wheels with 235/40/18 tires. Rears are rolled, fronts have the fender tab trimmed.

Rears fit just fine, I do rub on the front if I hit a dip while I'm turning, need to get the fenders pulled a bit.

whoismiked

iTrader: (2)

Interesting, thanks for sharing this.

My question is though; What was your reasoning for the conversion? Why were you not satisfied with the Ingalls?

Comptechtl2367

I was wondering if I could get away with using my rear upper control arms from my Accord and still be able to adjust toe enough in the rear... WIN!

And all you have to do is hit the knuckle around the ball joint and it pops right out. I dont get why people are so scared about ball joints around here. That way you can keep the stock ones in case you want to sell it.

SharksBreath

iTrader: (33)

^yup you don't have to destroy anything. a few simple wacks will pop it right out.

mzilvar

iTrader: (3)

The reason I went ahead and did it is because the ingalls ball-joints were smacking the inside of my fenders in the front. I was tired of it and wanted to change it so I went with the skunk2 arms to get rid of the clunking. The car feels much better now, no more smacking of my upper ball-joints in the fender wells.

I did the rears due to all the info I read about them on the forums and the shop I take my car in to for alignments told me he had seen problems with the bushings before as well and that he didn't like them at all. The bushings in mine were in good shape when I removed the arms, still looked relatively new albeit softer and completely different from the OEM bushings.

So I took the plunge, I changed out the grease in all of the ball-joints front and rear as well. Cleaned them up and replaced with Redline CV2 grease while I was doing this job.