Anyone with lowering springs.....
#41
#42
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I had about 50,000 miles on my car when they were installed.
#43
#45
Moderator
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Damn I love your car. A-Spec next please
#46
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I like it-very respectable drop.
#49
Either brand is an excellent choice.
One thing I like about Tein, is they add silencer rubber on the rear springs. The 3G rear springs have the silencers in OEM form. Some coil springs, on certain set-ups will make 'clank' noise where the coils touch when near fully compressed (hitting a large bump, etc).
Here's a pic of my 3G on H Tech springs/Koni sport shocks on lower perch (-20mm).
One thing I like about Tein, is they add silencer rubber on the rear springs. The 3G rear springs have the silencers in OEM form. Some coil springs, on certain set-ups will make 'clank' noise where the coils touch when near fully compressed (hitting a large bump, etc).
Here's a pic of my 3G on H Tech springs/Koni sport shocks on lower perch (-20mm).
#50
I have ride height measurements. I'm guessing with H techs and lower perch I'm dropped about 1.5" to 1.625".
Front is 24-7/8" Rear is 25-1/8". Measured thru the wheel center to the upper most edge of the fender. If I put heavy stuff in the trunk, it will drop about 1/8" to 1/4".
Front is 24-7/8" Rear is 25-1/8". Measured thru the wheel center to the upper most edge of the fender. If I put heavy stuff in the trunk, it will drop about 1/8" to 1/4".
#52
Three Wheelin'
From what I've read, feedback generally isn't positive. Tein Htech might be an option if you want a more mild drop. Seems just over an inch is what more folks are getting on them. I'm trying to decide between them and the HR sports which seem to be the overall favorite.
#54
Three Wheelin'
#55
I'm lost..
I think Tein S-tech drop is less than H&R Sports. Tein S-tech 1.2F 1.3 R while H&R Sport is 1.4F 1.3R.
Tanabe offers a 0.9F and 1.0R if you're looking for a more subtle drop.
Tanabe offers a 0.9F and 1.0R if you're looking for a more subtle drop.
#57
2006 Acura TL AT
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to reopen this thread, i have an 06 tl with standard suspension at 80k on the odometer..would it be a bad idea to just put lowering springs with this many miles on it? or will i be fine? i dont plan on racing or anything, just want to get it low enough to put 19 inch tires/rims on it without looking ridiculous. im happy with the comfort of the ride. biggest concern is having to replace the shocks anyway..
also, side question, how do i get my tires to extend to my fender well..it currently sits about .5-1 inch recessed in wheel well..
also, side question, how do i get my tires to extend to my fender well..it currently sits about .5-1 inch recessed in wheel well..
#58
Moderator
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It'll increase the chance of the shock blowing, but doesn't guarantee it. It's a risk but many people including myself had no issues with shocks having over 100k miles with lowering springs.
You'll want spacers to push the wheels towards the outside of the fender.
You'll want spacers to push the wheels towards the outside of the fender.
#60
Safety Car
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I have the A-Spec coilovers ( See avatar )
And by the Pics I have seen here on this post
With cars lowered with H&R Sport springs,
They don't look any lower then my A-Specs ?
Online the H&R Sport springs are supposed to lower
Aprox. -1.4" F&R. ?
#61
I've put Tein S-tech on my 05 base tl yesterday, and i feel that the car is more bouncy, i don't like it.
Is it because my stock shocks are tired, or it is always like that.
If so, what shock will make it firmer like when i was on stock springs?
Is it because my stock shocks are tired, or it is always like that.
If so, what shock will make it firmer like when i was on stock springs?
#62
Former Sponsor
Lowering springs on stock shocks is a ticking time bomb. If you're not worried about longevity or ride quality I would say go for it. Otherwise, do performance shocks as well or a complete coilover setup.
It is more than likely your stock shocks are tired. Typically shocks and springs are designed to work with eachother, so too stiff of a spring on a softer damper will result in a bouncy ride in many cases. One of the best shocks to get for lowering springs is the Koni Yellow.
Koni Shock - Sport Series - Excelerate Performance - Japanese and European Performance Specialists!!
Koni Shock - Sport Series - Excelerate Performance - Japanese and European Performance Specialists!!
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DunesCreations (09-15-2015)
#63
thx for the response. I was doing my homeworks last night and find out that ur right, koni yellow are all over the place when it come to quality, better ride and the fact that they are adjustable .
You have a great site, but i'll check if i can have them in canada since our dollar is bad these days and it'll cost me 1000$Ca for a price of 650$us
You have a great site, but i'll check if i can have them in canada since our dollar is bad these days and it'll cost me 1000$Ca for a price of 650$us
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ExcelerateRep (09-15-2015)
#64
I actually just put S-tecks on my 08 base, but I also installed excel Gs as well since mine were seized from my accident. that being said, just to and from work I drive about 160 miles a day and the days im not working the wife is making the same drive so basically 7 days a week. anyways, point is, I spend a lot of time in my car. and so far I love the way it feels with the new set up. even better then when I bought it. it isn't bouncy for me, although before my accident I knew my struts were going out and then yes it was bouncy. im satisfied with the springs on new struts and likely wont bother with coils until I don't have to make this drive to work.
#65
H&R Sport / Koni Yellow
H&R Sports Springs-installed almost a year ago with OEM shocks. No rubbing issues. I've even got spacers on mine-still no rubbing issues.
Attachment 50353
Attachment 50354
Attachment 50355
TL3-if you want a stiffer ride, go with coilovers. If you're happy with your ride, save yourself a LOT of money and get the H&R's.
Attachment 50353
Attachment 50354
Attachment 50355
TL3-if you want a stiffer ride, go with coilovers. If you're happy with your ride, save yourself a LOT of money and get the H&R's.
Thought of reviving this thread instead of creating a new one. May create a new thread if this doesn't gain traction
I'm planning to install some H&R Sports and Koni Yellows which should arrive in a few days.130k miles on stocks shocks, thought it was about time for a change . Well I was considering spacers in either 15f/20r or 12f/15r and I'm concerned about rubbing (Stock waffles) and possibly having issues with adjusting camber. Will I need an aftermarket camber kit with this set-up? I've gone over many threads covering this issue, but a lot of the 3rd party photos prevent me from comparing the visuals to the stated information.
Any thoughts/advice? Thanks in advance!
#66
H&R race springs and installed new shocks
No rubbing issues yet and have 20mm spacers in the rear
Attachment 50341
Attachment 50342
No rubbing issues yet and have 20mm spacers in the rear
Attachment 50341
Attachment 50342
What size spacers do you have in the front? Did you ever have any issues with the 20mm after settling or wear? I'm looking to purchase a set of Akata Spacers and I'm debating between going 15f/20r or 12f/15r. Any advice?
#67
Pro
15/20 is what the majority of people have used on the TL, myself included.
At first I had Tein S-tech springs and then moved on to the Tein Street Advance coilovers. I had to roll rear fenders with the spacers on stock 17" wheels once i lowered because of rubbing. I also opted for the SPC rear camber kit (upper arm) to correct the rear camber and left the front with natural camber.
At first I had Tein S-tech springs and then moved on to the Tein Street Advance coilovers. I had to roll rear fenders with the spacers on stock 17" wheels once i lowered because of rubbing. I also opted for the SPC rear camber kit (upper arm) to correct the rear camber and left the front with natural camber.
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SixSpeed07 (02-24-2018)
#68
15/20 is what the majority of people have used on the TL, myself included.
At first I had Tein S-tech springs and then moved on to the Tein Street Advance coilovers. I had to roll rear fenders with the spacers on stock 17" wheels once i lowered because of rubbing. I also opted for the SPC rear camber kit (upper arm) to correct the rear camber and left the front with natural camber.
At first I had Tein S-tech springs and then moved on to the Tein Street Advance coilovers. I had to roll rear fenders with the spacers on stock 17" wheels once i lowered because of rubbing. I also opted for the SPC rear camber kit (upper arm) to correct the rear camber and left the front with natural camber.
How was your rear toe after using the upper arm kit? Initially ordered the TruHart upper arm kit, and decided to go with Hard Race rear lateral arms instead. Not sure if it'll make a difference with clearance adjusting camber by pulling from the bottom rather than from the top, but at least I'll have toe adjustability. I don't plan on tracking the car, just the occasional aggressive driving (curving on ramps and freeway interchanges) and was advised by HardRace and TunerSports against going with the Spherical Bushings for street use. Also asked about mixing and matching (One hard rubber and one spherical bushing) that another user on the Acurazine has done and was also advised against doing that as they reported users having binding issues with that setup.
The only thing now for me is to finish breaking in the suspension to allow it to settle, install the rear kit when it comes in, and possibly order a front passenger camber kit because it's currently at -0.9 Left and -1.2 Right after alignment when suspension was put in. Also looking into changing my front passenger axle (which might be affecting my camber?).
Thanks for the info!
SixSpeed07
#69
So with 15/20 you still had rubbing issues? I'm trying to avoid having to roll my fenders. Did you only have rubbing issues after lowering because of the coilovers?
How was your rear toe after using the upper arm kit? Initially ordered the TruHart upper arm kit, and decided to go with Hard Race rear lateral arms instead. Not sure if it'll make a difference with clearance adjusting camber by pulling from the bottom rather than from the top, but at least I'll have toe adjustability. I don't plan on tracking the car, just the occasional aggressive driving (curving on ramps and freeway interchanges) and was advised by HardRace and TunerSports against going with the Spherical Bushings for street use. Also asked about mixing and matching (One hard rubber and one spherical bushing) that another user on the Acurazine has done and was also advised against doing that as they reported users having binding issues with that setup.
The only thing now for me is to finish breaking in the suspension to allow it to settle, install the rear kit when it comes in, and possibly order a front passenger camber kit because it's currently at -0.9 Left and -1.2 Right after alignment when suspension was put in. Also looking into changing my front passenger axle (which might be affecting my camber?).
Thanks for the info!
SixSpeed07
How was your rear toe after using the upper arm kit? Initially ordered the TruHart upper arm kit, and decided to go with Hard Race rear lateral arms instead. Not sure if it'll make a difference with clearance adjusting camber by pulling from the bottom rather than from the top, but at least I'll have toe adjustability. I don't plan on tracking the car, just the occasional aggressive driving (curving on ramps and freeway interchanges) and was advised by HardRace and TunerSports against going with the Spherical Bushings for street use. Also asked about mixing and matching (One hard rubber and one spherical bushing) that another user on the Acurazine has done and was also advised against doing that as they reported users having binding issues with that setup.
The only thing now for me is to finish breaking in the suspension to allow it to settle, install the rear kit when it comes in, and possibly order a front passenger camber kit because it's currently at -0.9 Left and -1.2 Right after alignment when suspension was put in. Also looking into changing my front passenger axle (which might be affecting my camber?).
Thanks for the info!
SixSpeed07
I'd leave the front camber alone. Its only around 1 degree. That's *barely* out of spec.
You really really shouldn't use an extended ball joint to fix the camber. The amount of issues it will cause...especially on a lowered car is not worth fixing the absolutely harmless amount of camber you have.
Axles don't affect camber...but its best to get an alignment after changing it since you need to take apart a few fixed components to do so.
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SixSpeed07 (03-02-2018)
#70
Pro
So with 15/20 you still had rubbing issues? I'm trying to avoid having to roll my fenders. Did you only have rubbing issues after lowering because of the coilovers?
How was your rear toe after using the upper arm kit? Initially ordered the TruHart upper arm kit, and decided to go with Hard Race rear lateral arms instead. Not sure if it'll make a difference with clearance adjusting camber by pulling from the bottom rather than from the top, but at least I'll have toe adjustability. I don't plan on tracking the car, just the occasional aggressive driving (curving on ramps and freeway interchanges) and was advised by HardRace and TunerSports against going with the Spherical Bushings for street use. Also asked about mixing and matching (One hard rubber and one spherical bushing) that another user on the Acurazine has done and was also advised against doing that as they reported users having binding issues with that setup.
The only thing now for me is to finish breaking in the suspension to allow it to settle, install the rear kit when it comes in, and possibly order a front passenger camber kit because it's currently at -0.9 Left and -1.2 Right after alignment when suspension was put in. Also looking into changing my front passenger axle (which might be affecting my camber?).
Thanks for the info!
SixSpeed07
How was your rear toe after using the upper arm kit? Initially ordered the TruHart upper arm kit, and decided to go with Hard Race rear lateral arms instead. Not sure if it'll make a difference with clearance adjusting camber by pulling from the bottom rather than from the top, but at least I'll have toe adjustability. I don't plan on tracking the car, just the occasional aggressive driving (curving on ramps and freeway interchanges) and was advised by HardRace and TunerSports against going with the Spherical Bushings for street use. Also asked about mixing and matching (One hard rubber and one spherical bushing) that another user on the Acurazine has done and was also advised against doing that as they reported users having binding issues with that setup.
The only thing now for me is to finish breaking in the suspension to allow it to settle, install the rear kit when it comes in, and possibly order a front passenger camber kit because it's currently at -0.9 Left and -1.2 Right after alignment when suspension was put in. Also looking into changing my front passenger axle (which might be affecting my camber?).
Thanks for the info!
SixSpeed07
Also, I agree with BROlando...I'd leave the front alone since it looks to be within spec already.
#71
I'd leave the front camber alone. Its only around 1 degree. That's *barely* out of spec.
You really really shouldn't use an extended ball joint to fix the camber. The amount of issues it will cause...especially on a lowered car is not worth fixing the absolutely harmless amount of camber you have.
Axles don't affect camber...but its best to get an alignment after changing it since you need to take apart a few fixed components to do so.
You really really shouldn't use an extended ball joint to fix the camber. The amount of issues it will cause...especially on a lowered car is not worth fixing the absolutely harmless amount of camber you have.
Axles don't affect camber...but its best to get an alignment after changing it since you need to take apart a few fixed components to do so.
#72
Yes, even on the springs I rubbed on the rear when I hit any kind of dip in the road when I was running the 15/20 spacers (with the camber corrected to around -1). Once I rolled the fenders I didn't run into any more problems. I was really happy with the upper arm SPC kit, it was easy to install and easy to correct the camber at the alignment shop. I'm not familiar with the TruHart kit, but most of the people around here either ran the SPC upper kit or the Ingalls lower kit.
Also, I agree with BROlando...I'd leave the front alone since it looks to be within spec already.
Also, I agree with BROlando...I'd leave the front alone since it looks to be within spec already.
So I’m assuming 15/15mm would be fine and not require rolling of the fenders if camber is set to about -1 all around? 0.2” doesn’t seem like much of a stance change if it would cause rub over the 15s. Haven’t come across many photos pre and post spacer with corrected camber. Wish I could see either 15/20 and 15/15 with a drop and aftermarket shocks on stock waffles and corrected camber.
Would make clicking checkout much much easier. (Closest I can get to being “on the fence”)
I just want get it right prepurchase “So I buy once and cry once.
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