Aftermarket Lower control arms
 

√I neeed new bushings was gonan go with the moogs on this page for two reasons one I have moog balljoints right now and 2 it seems to be the most reputable brand out of the others what are yo;ur thoughts and experiences. I estimated the cost of doing this vs having a local mechanic press in 2 new bushings and its about the same or more hoenstly

Here's one of my moog bushings after like 45-50K.

Torn out of its casing.

https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/acurazi...7cf1f02f04.jpgI figured they'd last about 20K. So they exceeded my expectations. lol.

My OEM ones were only mildly cracked at 105K or so. And I've seen OEM ones last 200+K.

I would opt for OEM all damn day. But I do my own labour.

The advantage of buying complete aftermarket arms is that all the bushings are new...and they're super cheap.

The disadvantage is that none of those bushings are anywhere near as good as the factory ones.

Moog is probably one of your best bets for aftermarket complete arms, however.

Make sure they clock your other 2 bushings properly when they install the arms. Or they won't last 2 months before tearing (even if you use OEM ones).

Please explain what you mean by "clock the bushing properly".
I'm about to replace the lower arms and I want to fully understand what's involved

The LCA has 3 bushings.
1 compliance (the big one).
1 for the shock fork.
1 for the subframe tabs.

The shock fork and subframe tab bushings need to be tightened once the car is at ride height. NOT while the wheels droop down with the car on a lift/stands.

You can either jack up on the LCA to simulate ride height. Or actually tighten the bolts once the car is set back on the ground.

im still confused by your meaning of tightening and i guess oem it is

Tightening the bolts is what I'm referring to.

how would i make it right hieght exactly with it on jackstands it woudnt be perfect

Easy.

Measuring tape.

Before picking the car up: Measure the distance from wheel centre to fender lip. Use two small pieces of painters tape to mark where you measured to/from. One on the wheel cap. One on the fender lip.

Finish your work on the LCA. Snug the bolts loosely.

Then, while on jackstands, jack the LCA up till the measurement matches. Use the two pieces of painters tape to make sure you are measuring to/from the same spots.

Tighten the bolts.


Or...again, just wait to tighten the bolts until the car is on the ground. Its a bit of a squeeze...but not terribly bad. Turn the wheels one way or the other.

In lesser words,

Measure this first whilst the car sits on level ground.

https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/acurazi...5fc77e6cc8.jpg

Then after you're done installing the arm... jack up the LCA to the same measurement before tightening the bolts.
https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/acurazi...05d68c5553.jpg

A good practice I've been taught by a mechanic and use every time is to jack up just until your car starts lifting off the jack stand. This simulates your suspension in it's loaded position, then torque everything down.

Pray that your Moog ball joints don't pop out with your car front end crashed to the ground. Search for threads in here. One guy had a $3500 damage from 2 Moog lower ball joints.

why would you even say that?

Because Moog balljoints and bushings have a bad rep here.

LOL...I love how they're trying to pawn off lack of R&D.

The ball joint itself is probably fine. But since the aftermarket joints didn't come with the right hardware for a TL, it resulted in a failure.

OEM's and more reputable aftermarket companies do quite a bit more R&D. That's usually reflected in component cost.