2006 OEM Shock price weirdness

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Old 08-28-2017, 05:10 PM
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Originally Posted by DMZ
269K and 13¼ years - I'll finally be replacing my original ones next month. How much of a ride difference should I notice even though they aren't leaking and each corner of the car goes right back into position with NO GYRATING when I try bouncing on it? I'm wondering if I even need to do it at all.
Why replace if not needed? High mileage examples in above post, so unless there's a need to replace, just sit tight. Changed the oil today on our '08 knock around car with 274,000 and as I always spray rubber lube front and rear, then give a quick check for any obvious problems, but nothing to report. Everything still OEM, nothing replaced except rear hub bearings.
Old 08-28-2017, 05:25 PM
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Originally Posted by DMZ
269K and 13¼ years - I'll finally be replacing my original ones next month. How much of a ride difference should I notice even though they aren't leaking and each corner of the car goes right back into position with NO GYRATING when I try bouncing on it? I'm wondering if I even need to do it at all.
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You might notice a difference with new shocks. I assume you will.

Maybe the car is significantly more floaty than it was 13 yrs ago...but its been hard to notice because the change has happened so slowly.

Or maybe your roads are smoother than most parts if the country.

In any case...if you go with an Acura genuine replacement, you'll be able to make an apples-to-apples comparison.

If you went with a different brand than factory...the ride may be designed differently than stock. So any differences you notice in ride quality could just be chalked up to different damper/spring rates.

Interested to know your outcome.

Last edited by BROlando; 08-28-2017 at 05:30 PM.
Old 08-28-2017, 05:59 PM
  #83  
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To clarify my previous post, based on what BROlando said, my OEM shocks started floating. They also started lifting in the corners and became so soft in dips that they would bottom. This happened gradually over time. I looked at them several times, but they looked good with no leaks. I took my time researching what to put on the car, and finally settled on the KYBs. Ironically, or maybe it was inevitable, but right before I changed them my front right shock blew a seal. The ride didn't get worse when it did, likely because they had already failed internally somehow.

Sure, the KYBs are not OEM, but they are the closest I could find to OEM that were readily available. They seem to have slightly more compression dampening. Regardless, my tl didn't float, lift or bottom when the OEM shocks were good, so although I replaced with a different shock, I know that if I had replaced with OEM, just like with the KYBs, the boatiness would still be gone.
Old 08-28-2017, 06:35 PM
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Originally Posted by BROlando
Or maybe your roads are smoother than most parts if the country.
Are you kidding? I'm in the NYC / NJ area. We have some of the shittiest roads in America!
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Old 08-28-2017, 07:09 PM
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Originally Posted by DMZ
Are you kidding? I'm in the NYC / NJ area. We have some of the shittiest roads in America!
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Hell yeah, y'all definitely do. Just drove to/from NYC a couple weeks ago haha
Old 08-29-2017, 04:46 AM
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Originally Posted by BROlando
Hell yeah, y'all definitely do. Just drove to/from NYC a couple weeks ago haha
Where are you from? One of those places where they call Elmers Glue All Elmers Glue Y'all?

Last edited by DMZ; 08-29-2017 at 04:49 AM.
Old 08-29-2017, 12:38 PM
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Originally Posted by DMZ
Where are you from? One of those places where they call Elmers Glue All Elmers Glue Y'all?

Chicago burbs, cuh. Also shitty roads. But not as shitty as y'all'ses.

I have family & friends in Manhattan, Brooklyn and Westchester
Old 08-29-2017, 04:47 PM
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Originally Posted by DMZ
269K and 13¼ years - I'll finally be replacing my original ones next month. How much of a ride difference should I notice even though they aren't leaking and each corner of the car goes right back into position with NO GYRATING when I try bouncing on it? I'm wondering if I even need to do it at all.
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You would be a good test candidate. Let us know if you can feel an improvement, assuming you put OEMs back on it. Some of the aftermarket shocks don't have any valving at all (ex: Sears has used grooves to adjust the fluid flow based on damper position) but they are cheaper.
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