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I agree with that statement. I only have a new bushing. I dont have the old one removed yet.. And I dont have the Amazon tool..
Only DesertMistTL does.
Its all about him! haha
Originally Posted by VictorTL
I think socket is made to fit on the bushing sleeve without slipping. See the lip on the socket?
Desert, do you still have the old bushing? Can you fit the old bushing onto this socket?
I do not know what is 2-1/8
But this one fits perfect inside the metal rim. I mean perfect. No wiggling. It will work the best as long as it holds while pushing. And it sits on the rubber "tabs" nicely.
I do not know what is 2-1/8
But this one fits perfect inside the metal rim. I mean perfect. No wiggling. It will work the best as long as it holds while pushing. And it sits on the rubber "tabs" nicely.
if you that 68.7 mm socket you will definitely push out the rubber instead of the metal sleeve.
the ball joint itself does not need to be removed.
there is a vid on youtube showing a guy who did it while on the car..
search acura tl compliance bushing on google or youtube.
I am undecided. I have the tool needed to separate the lower arm from the ball joint BOLT.. So, I could remove the whole arms if I want to.
If you leave the arm mounted to the car, and the ball joint connected, then you will have to pull out the axle from the transmission joint or take off the axle Nut from the wheel bearing.
I have inadvertantly pulled out my axle from the transmission before and it went back in no problems.
Or if you dont want to pull out the axle from the transmission then you need to remove the axle nut from the wheel bearing area.
Extra info:
FYI for all reading this.. NOt ALL 54mm sockets have the same outer diameter.. So, while the inner diameter may be 54mm, the outer diameter will vary because I found that out at Northern tool. So, not all 54mm sockets are created equal. I even measured 2 of the Klutch brand sockets that were both 54mm but the outer diameter was not equal. The only visible difference was that one was chrome and the other was black and boring.
Originally Posted by nfnsquared
It's 72-73mm. It works perfectly! It pushes on the metal edge of the bushing, not the rubber.
I'm thinking about trying it with the 68.7 mm socket as a test.. Plus I have that size in my kit..
and it if doesnt work then I will use the 54mm northern tool Socket that is 72.05mm
There is nothing to loose if the the inner rubber bushing is not needed to be there ... while pressing the whole bushing out (w/ metal sleeve)
the ball joint itself does not need to be removed.
there is a vid on youtube showing a guy who did it while on the car..
search acura tl compliance bushing on google or youtube.
I am undecided. I have the tool needed to separate the lower arm from the ball joint BOLT.. So, I could remove the whole arms if I want to.
If you leave the arm mounted to the car, and the ball joint connected, then you will have to pull out the axle from the transmission joint or take off the axle Nut from the wheel bearing.
I have inadvertantly pulled out my axle from the transmission before and it went back in no problems.
Or if you dont want to pull out the axle from the transmission then you need to remove the axle nut from the wheel bearing area.
up to you!
ok got it . Probably it’s easy to remove the balljoint with a good balljoin remover.
Again, you don't need to remove the ball joint. You can pull the axle out as needed. You have about 4" of play before the races will come totally out of the cup. It's no big deal if they do (as long as you don't tear the boot of course), just push the races back into the cup (you might need to realign them before doing so by turning the axle slightly).
Again, you don't need to remove the ball joint. You can pull the axle out as needed. You have about 4" of play before the races will come totally out of the cup. It's no big deal if they do (as long as you don't tear the boot of course), just push the races back into the cup (you might need to realign them before doing so by turning the axle slightly).
i see. Thank. Why you freeze the new bushing to install ? To make it shrink so it is easier to push in?
right .. the ball joint itself does not get removed in this procedure. To remove the lower arm completely, then all you have to do is disconnect the lower arm from the ball joint bolt.
And just for extra info, I measured the Klutch 2 1/8" at Northern tool a month ago, and it is slightly smaller than 72mm (71.57mm). So the 54mm still comes the closest, at 72.05mm
Summary of measurements:
OEM Bushing = 74.22mm
Amazon Honda Tool = 73.75-ish mm $15 Klutch 54mm socket = 72.05mm (item#40855) (best choice to press on outer metal ring)
Klutch 2 1/8" socket = 71.57mm (item#40919)
nfnsquared, i am going to buy the hardware that you listed and make the tool and will try this project in the summer. Do the driver and passenger LCA bushing removal is very similar (assuming without removing the balljoint) way? Does either is harder to work on than the other? And Does the alignment is required after this job?
nfnsquared, i am going to buy the hardware that you listed and make the tool and will try this project in the summer. Do the driver and passenger LCA bushing removal is very similar (assuming without removing the balljoint) way? Does either is harder to work on than the other? And Does the alignment is required after this job?
i read some where on AcuraZine that if you replaced or remove the LCA you will need an alignment. And you said no? If the alignment is not required after fiddling with the LCA then that is great so I can do the left or right LCA one at a time
Why does it matter if you find it locally? You said you were not going to do this until Summer.
i want to gather all the information and get everything line up be cause I don’t have a garage. I am working on a street so everything has to work out without any hiccups. I can’t have the car park on the street while running around looking for tools.
ya that stinks. I try to do the same thing because I have only 1 vehicle and don't want to be stranded. So I live close to the train which drops me off right in front of work.. And I bought this all-aluminum bike : https://www.walmart.com/ip/GMC-Denal...-Bike/49590912
so what is your motivation behind doing this bushing change? yes I see the crack, but that may not attribute to much unless the arm was bobbing around in the joint.
so what is your motivation behind doing this bushing change? yes I see the crack, but that may not attribute to much unless the arm was bobbing around in the joint.
i am getting ready for the worst . Sooner or later the passenger LCA bushing will complete ripped apart.
just for grins, I thought I would post this.. Now, this comes with a warning.. I have experienced twice, an arm on the suspension did not fit.. Like an upper control arm that Orielly's sold me. It was too wide. And I went to a junk yard and the guy swore up and down that the "vertical wheel bearing arm" was from a 04-08 Acura TL. I compared side by side and they looked identical, but it was not exact and I could not use it.
11-24-2018, 06:57 PM
